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Seems I can get it right only by accident.
And, since I'm at a point where it needs to be perfect (doors, etc.), I'm ba-ack (here asking questions). Using HVLP system and a solvent based product (Magna Shield from Hood Finishing) and got lots of orange peel. Consistent orange peel. Since I was outside, it may have been the humidity. Maybe. Turned down the material knob and got stripes (almost dry areas). And, orange peel. There's definitely a learning curve, but I thought I was over the top (still learning, but having a decent grasp). Hah! One specific question beyond combating the orange peel and application techniques - is there any difference in technique between a water based lacquer and solvent based? Anyway, I decided I got nothing to lose to ask y'all for any (more) tips, tricks, etc. Plan to experiment some more to finesse the technique, but, any further advice, knowledge, etc. from folks who've been doing this a heck of a lot longer than myself would be appreciated. Thanx Renata |
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On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 08:54:28 -0400, Renata
wrote: Seems I can get it right only by accident. And, since I'm at a point where it needs to be perfect (doors, etc.), I'm ba-ack (here asking questions). Using HVLP system and a solvent based product (Magna Shield from Hood Finishing) and got lots of orange peel. Consistent orange peel. Since I was outside, it may have been the humidity. Maybe. Turned down the material knob and got stripes (almost dry areas). And, orange peel. There's definitely a learning curve, but I thought I was over the top (still learning, but having a decent grasp). Hah! One specific question beyond combating the orange peel and application techniques - is there any difference in technique between a water based lacquer and solvent based? Anyway, I decided I got nothing to lose to ask y'all for any (more) tips, tricks, etc. Plan to experiment some more to finesse the technique, but, any further advice, knowledge, etc. from folks who've been doing this a heck of a lot longer than myself would be appreciated. Thanx Renata When I have sprayed cars using I have found that too much pressure or too far from the car produced orange peel. I have not sprayed enough cars to master the technique but with the same gun and compressor I have gotten glass smooth and orange peel on different days. My question is how far away you are holding the gun and how fast you are moving the gun? |
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Renata wrote:
Seems I can get it right only by accident. And, since I'm at a point where it needs to be perfect (doors, etc.), I'm ba-ack (here asking questions). Using HVLP system and a solvent based product (Magna Shield from Hood Finishing) and got lots of orange peel. Consistent orange peel. Since I was outside, it may have been the humidity. Maybe. As you spray, are you spraying into your own over spray? You should be. You want the over spray to mainly land on the area not yet sprayed. To do this, the first "face" pass should be along the side closest to you, with overlapping passes until you do the far edge. Before spraying the face, do a pass along all four edges. |
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Take a look at this, and read all the way through. It might help you
understand more about your system. Even the info about the aircaps is there, although called something else they still give you mm sizes for reference. Trouble shooting tips at the end. http://tinyurl.com/yps8d3 Robert |
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Renata wrote:
Seems I can get it right only by accident. And, since I'm at a point where it needs to be perfect (doors, etc.), I'm ba-ack (here asking questions). Take a at the article "Furniture Finishing & Restoration - Spray Finishing Problems - "Orange Peel"" at: http://www.furniturefinishwizard.com/orangepeel.htm -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA |
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On Aug 30, 10:01 pm, "Mike Marlow" wrote:
SNIP of other great information and timely advice... Oh yeah - one more thing... The only thing more important to keep clean than a woman, is your paint gun and accessories. All bets are off unless you're really, really anal about cleanliness with paint stuff. Amen... nicely said. When I am SURE the guns and lines are clean, I shoot just a little more solvent through the system one more time. And make sure your filters are clean. If you don't have filters on your gun itself, you really need them, especially with HVLP. A siphon gun will pick up debris and dirt that doesn't go into the bottom of the paint cup or into the edge creases of cup. But since HVLP is actually pressured, it can push debris into the gun itself. Either way you need gun filters. Debris in the gun can cause irregular orange peel as it will cause intermittent "splatter" that can sometimes be so fine in nature that it looks like orange peel. Or it can be just plain old splattering in appearance. Old finish (30 days is old to me... 2 years is "aged to perfection" for my amigos) can thicken and cause gelling of the finish that can make consistent spray texture impossible to achieve because you cannot regulate the flow of material, hence you cannot set the pressure correctly for the material. Personally, I really like the ones on this page. Go a little over 3/4 of the way down and look at the Worthy strainers and click on the links so you can see how they attach, and inside one of the hot links you can see a close up of the mesh and filter itself. http://www.phelpsrefinishing.com/accessories.html I think too, the underlying message Mssr. Marlow was sending you was to practice, practice, practice. If you are really going to get where you can spray a given finish at any given time under a variety of conditions you have to learn 1) your equipment and 2) your finish. With that in mind, you still have to practice. Keep good notes of what you have done; record what works and what doesn't. Temps, humidity, time of day, mixes, materials, solvents, gun settings, aircap size, manufacturers of your solvents and finishes.... everything. Then be prepared for the days nothing works. They are discouraging, but you have to look at them as part of the process as well. But you can help reduce those days dramatically by being bold with with your mixing and spraying by practicing on your scraps, not on your projects. When I was learning how to mix the NC lacquer I am using now, I went down to the Habitat for Humanity store and bought some spintered door skins. I sprayed and sprayed those skins with different mixes, pressures and aircaps to get what I wanted. As a sidebar, my worst problem with technique when using my HVLP was not maintaining the proper distance of the aircap to the surface when spraying. After reading and understanding a dissertation from Michael Dresdner on this (which is not that critical with high pressure), I was convinced how critical this part of HVLP was when I saw a stop action photo that showed the fully developed pattern had blossomed 8" from the aircap/gun. Before that, the pattern was not developed; after that, it broke apart. My solution? Laugh if you want. I cut a 3/4" x 3/4" x 8" stick and put it in my pocket and when I am spraying after a layoff or in a place that have difficult footing or lighting. When I am ready to shoot, I take the stick out (go ahead... laugh) and put it in front of the gun to determine the correct distance. Then I move my gauge and keep the distance as close to the gauge distance as possible. Search the archives on this forum, too. There is a lot of good info back there on setting up guns, setting up power plants, mixes, etc. No matter how much you think you are screwing up, unless they are (as Mark Twain put it) "disremembering" every single person that does serious finishing has sanded their share of finishes down to start over. Screwing up or unsatisfactory finsihes are just part of this process. Robert |
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On Aug 30, 9:26 am, Nova wrote:
Renata wrote: Seems I can get it right only by accident. And, since I'm at a point where it needs to be perfect (doors, etc.), I'm ba-ack (here asking questions). Take a at the article "Furniture Finishing & Restoration - Spray Finishing Problems - "Orange Peel"" at: http://www.furniturefinishwizard.com/orangepeel.htm -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA Barry - great link. It has been so long since I have seen anything on the old "wizard" I thought they were gone. Has it been around all this time, or have I got them mixed up with the old "finishing wizard" group? A lot of good info on that site. Bookmarking for future perusal. Robert |
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This may help -
http://www.mlcampbell.com/secured/woodfinishprobs.pdf Preston "Renata" wrote in message ... Seems I can get it right only by accident. |
more lacquer (spraying) questions
Lots of answers and the wizard has great info.
One more point: I learned from a professional sprayer that he ALWAYS sprays lacquer by hitting each surface in both directions. So if you are spraying a door laying on a table spray it back and forth from top to bottom in overlapping stripes. Then move to one side of the table and spray it again from side to side in overlapping stripes. - This makes sure you get coverage in all the various moldings, nooks, etc. - This makes sure you don't miss any spots. - This makes sure you get enough material layed down so it is thick enough to "flow", this is the biggest need to avoid orange peel. This forces you to use a fairly light spray or you'll put it on too thick. I've found it really helps and makes things nearly fool proof. Lay down very light coats but you can come back and "wetten" it up with that second coat and slow down just enough to lay it on wet. Goos lighting is the key to seeing what is happening. Even outsode, shining a bright light across the surface really helps. Pros use "blast proof bulbs". Just be careful. BW. On Aug 30, 5:54 am, Renata wrote: Seems I can get it right only by accident. And, since I'm at a point where it needs to be perfect (doors, etc.), I'm ba-ack (here asking questions). Using HVLP system and a solvent based product (Magna Shield from Hood Finishing) and got lots of orange peel. Consistent orange peel. Since I was outside, it may have been the humidity. Maybe. Turned down the material knob and got stripes (almost dry areas). And, orange peel. There's definitely a learning curve, but I thought I was over the top (still learning, but having a decent grasp). Hah! One specific question beyond combating the orange peel and application techniques - is there any difference in technique between a water based lacquer and solvent based? Anyway, I decided I got nothing to lose to ask y'all for any (more) tips, tricks, etc. Plan to experiment some more to finesse the technique, but, any further advice, knowledge, etc. from folks who've been doing this a heck of a lot longer than myself would be appreciated. Thanx Renata |
more lacquer (spraying) questions
On Sat, 01 Sep 2007 05:38:17 -0700, "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote: Lots of answers and the wizard has great info. One more point: I learned from a professional sprayer that he ALWAYS sprays lacquer by hitting each surface in both directions. I actually do four ways, as is known as "boxed" coats. Always spraying into my own overspray. --------------------------------------------- ** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html ** --------------------------------------------- |
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