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Default Sharpening Jointer Blades

How does one sharpen a 6 1/2" long joiner blade? Can you do it
yourself
or must one have them sharpened by a pro?

Otoe
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Default Sharpening Jointer Blades



wrote in message
...
How does one sharpen a 6 1/2" long joiner blade? Can you do it
yourself
or must one have them sharpened by a pro?

Otoe


I sharpen my own after every major project.

You can use the veritas jig or you can make your own jig. AND yes, it
works!

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/jigsfixtures.htm

--
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Default Sharpening Jointer Blades

Mike O. wrote:

You can do it yourself but we have ours sharpened.
If I remember, a set of 3 (6 1/8") costs us about $10.00 plus tax to
be sharpened.


Same here. Straight, non-carbide knives are really cheap to have sharpened.

I have three or four sets of planer and jointer blades, rotating a bunch
out to the sharpener when needed.
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"B A R R Y" wrote in message
news
Mike O. wrote:

You can do it yourself but we have ours sharpened. If I remember, a set
of 3 (6 1/8") costs us about $10.00 plus tax to
be sharpened.


Same here. Straight, non-carbide knives are really cheap to have
sharpened.

I have three or four sets of planer and jointer blades, rotating a bunch
out to the sharpener when needed.


I stopped sending mine out because I could do a better job (sharper). The
"professional" sharpening job left rough scratches on the knives.


--
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Default Sharpening Jointer Blades

On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:34:39 GMT, "George" wrote:




Cheap. The reason I bought my Makita sharpener was because they wanted
fifty cents an inch (15 years ago) and I still had to clean up after the
sharpening on my honing stone.

In the interim I cut a saw kerf in a block of wood at the proper angle,
wedged the knives in it and raised it with thicknesses of paper and passed
it beneath a cone-shaped stone on my drillpress. Worked great, but the
Makita's better.



I'm having a hard time visualizing this sharpening mechanism. Is the
block of wood against a fence to keep equal distance while pushing
the blade across the stone? How is the angle adjusted to the stone
in the drillpress? The joiner blade sharpening angle is 38 degrees.

Otoe
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Default Sharpening Jointer Blades

Otoe wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:34:39 GMT, "George" wrote:


Cheap. The reason I bought my Makita sharpener was because they wanted
fifty cents an inch (15 years ago) and I still had to clean up after the
sharpening on my honing stone.

In the interim I cut a saw kerf in a block of wood at the proper angle,
wedged the knives in it and raised it with thicknesses of paper and passed
it beneath a cone-shaped stone on my drillpress. Worked great, but the
Makita's better.



I'm having a hard time visualizing this sharpening mechanism. Is the
block of wood against a fence to keep equal distance while pushing
the blade across the stone? How is the angle adjusted to the stone
in the drillpress? The joiner blade sharpening angle is 38 degrees.


I believe he's saying saw the kerf in the block at the proper angle and
insert the knife into it to hold it. Then the edge runs against the
surface of the stone.

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Default Sharpening Jointer Blades


"dpb" wrote in message ...
Otoe wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:34:39 GMT, "George" wrote:


Cheap. The reason I bought my Makita sharpener was because they wanted
fifty cents an inch (15 years ago) and I still had to clean up after
the sharpening on my honing stone.

In the interim I cut a saw kerf in a block of wood at the proper angle,
wedged the knives in it and raised it with thicknesses of paper and
passed it beneath a cone-shaped stone on my drillpress. Worked great,
but the Makita's better.



I'm having a hard time visualizing this sharpening mechanism. Is the
block of wood against a fence to keep equal distance while pushing
the blade across the stone? How is the angle adjusted to the stone
in the drillpress? The joiner blade sharpening angle is 38 degrees.


I believe he's saying saw the kerf in the block at the proper angle and
insert the knife into it to hold it. Then the edge runs against the
surface of the stone.

--

If you're a member over at FWW, run the index. Kerf is at the proper angle
to present the bevel parallel to the table of the drillpress. 38 if that's
yours. The stone is lowered to kiss the tallest knife, then sheets of paper
added under to raise the entire apparatus as it's slud left and right..



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Default Sharpening Jointer Blades

I use a tormek which works great. It's very spendy though, especially with
all the jigs. However, their jig is wide enough to do 12" planer blades
too, so I don't have to send to send out anymore.

Mike

wrote in message
...
How does one sharpen a 6 1/2" long joiner blade? Can you do it
yourself
or must one have them sharpened by a pro?

Otoe



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Default Sharpening Jointer Blades

On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 20:59:52 GMT, "George" wrote:


"dpb" wrote in message ...
Otoe wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:34:39 GMT, "George" wrote:




I'm having a hard time visualizing this sharpening mechanism. Is the
block of wood against a fence to keep equal distance while pushing
the blade across the stone? How is the angle adjusted to the stone
in the drillpress? The joiner blade sharpening angle is 38 degrees.


I believe he's saying saw the kerf in the block at the proper angle and
insert the knife into it to hold it. Then the edge runs against the
surface of the stone.

--

If you're a member over at FWW, run the index. Kerf is at the proper angle
to present the bevel parallel to the table of the drillpress. 38 if that's
yours. The stone is lowered to kiss the tallest knife, then sheets of paper
added under to raise the entire apparatus as it's slud left and right..


I got the kerf concept with the blade placement. The issue is
moving the blade across the stone and keeping the blade
straight so you have a straight, sharp blade on the tip.
Somehow, I'd think the kerf jig has to be maintained the
same distance from the stone so you don't put a smilely
across the blade.

Is the blade just being dragged across the stone? If so,
how does one get a straight edge across the blade?

Otoe
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Default Sharpening Jointer Blades

On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 20:59:52 GMT, "George" wrote:


"dpb" wrote in message ...
Otoe wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:34:39 GMT, "George" wrote:




I believe he's saying saw the kerf in the block at the proper angle and
insert the knife into it to hold it. Then the edge runs against the
surface of the stone.

--

If you're a member over at FWW, run the index. Kerf is at the proper angle
to present the bevel parallel to the table of the drillpress. 38 if that's
yours. The stone is lowered to kiss the tallest knife, then sheets of paper
added under to raise the entire apparatus as it's slud left and right..


Oh, additionally, could a drum sander be used instead of a stone? Or
would that cause a tempering problem?

Otoe
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Default Sharpening Jointer Blades

On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:35:24 -0700, "Mike Dembroge"
wrote:

I use a tormek which works great. It's very spendy though, especially with
all the jigs. However, their jig is wide enough to do 12" planer blades
too, so I don't have to send to send out anymore.

Mike


I looked that up and found the cost too steep. I'm on the cheap
and it appears the best overall solution is to buy new blades;
as its a two blade Sears jointer and costs about $17 for the pair.
I just hit the blades with a hard knot that dinged up the blades.
Any guess the sharpening cost for 6 1/4" blades?

Otoe
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Default Sharpening Jointer Blades


Otoe wrote in message news
If you're a member over at FWW, run the index. Kerf is at the proper
angle
to present the bevel parallel to the table of the drillpress. 38 if
that's
yours. The stone is lowered to kiss the tallest knife, then sheets of
paper
added under to raise the entire apparatus as it's slud left and right..


I got the kerf concept with the blade placement. The issue is
moving the blade across the stone and keeping the blade
straight so you have a straight, sharp blade on the tip.
Somehow, I'd think the kerf jig has to be maintained the
same distance from the stone so you don't put a smilely
across the blade.

Is the blade just being dragged across the stone? If so,
how does one get a straight edge across the blade?

The blade and its holder/jig are moved as one while sitting on the
drillpress table. Since the quill is locked, the setup doesn't even really
demand a perfectly flat or perpendicular table for reference. The distance
from stone to table and in between is just diminished by sheets of paper or
increased by wear on the stone.

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