http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

A strong gentleman who was picking up his own stuff that he won in
that auction, helped me load it into my pickup.

At home, I easily unloaded it myself. It weighed about 350 lbs, but
nicely balanced on the tailgate as I lowered it, first on two pallets,
then I pulled one, then I pulled another. No problem. And I am not
even strong.

The good news is that it seems to work fine. Powers up, spins, and
changes speed. Another good news is that it is NOT obnoxiously
loud. Really quite acceptable for a strong machine.

There is a diagram of speeds next to the speed adjustment handle. The
lowest speed depends on what is the motor RPM. For a 900 RPM motor, it
is 235 RPM, for a 1750 RPM motor, it is 475 RPM or so (going by
memory).

So, since the present motor is a 1750 RPM, this is a 475 RPM lowest
speed drill press. The motor seems to be the usual 56 frame size, so,
finding a replacement motor (say, 1 honest HP 900 RPM motor) should
not be a problem. I am xposting this to a woodworking newsgroup in
hopes that someone who wants a faster drill press, may want to swap my
1725 RPM 3/4HP motor, for a 900 RPM motor.

This is the hell of a "3/4HP motor", it is rated for 10 amps at 110V
and easily blew a overload switch on my outlet bar at startup. The
less honest people would rate it as a 1.5 HP motor.

The other bad news is that there are supposed to be three handles on
the crank that lowers and raises the spindle. I have all threee,
however, two holes are somewhat stripped. One hole is fine, so I can
raise and lower the spindle.

Thread looks like 1/2"-20 NF, and I have a corresponding tap, though I
doubt that I have a die for the handles. I will try to re-thread holes
and see if that would help.

The mysterious pedal turned out to be for raising and lowering the
spindle. It's great for quick hole making when I use two hands to hold
work.

I think that I will upgrade my basement 120v circuit to 20 amps,
though it is not necessary for the DP, but it is a good time to do it.

i

"Ignoramus16069" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

A strong gentleman who was picking up his own stuff that he won in
that auction, helped me load it into my pickup.
snip

Might you concider a VFD? If I fall into one, I'd do my new DP.

pretty nice, is it reversing?

i am holding out for one with power feed. so nice!

On Sat, 03 Mar 2007 05:15:42 -0800, erik litchy wrote:
pretty nice, is it reversing?

no, it is not reversing. It is purely a motor question.

i am holding out for one with power feed. so nice!

Power feed is definitely a great thing. What I like about this DP, is
that it has a foot pedal that I can use to lower the quill.

i

On Sat, 03 Mar 2007 05:06:12 GMT, Tom Gardner wrote:

"Ignoramus16069" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

A strong gentleman who was picking up his own stuff that he won in
that auction, helped me load it into my pickup.
snip

Might you concider a VFD? If I fall into one, I'd do my new DP.


Tom, I do not know. It would be nice for a few reasons, like tapping
and reversal. Electrically, it is a hassle due to having to redo my
basement electrical wiring a lot.

i

On Fri, 02 Mar 2007 17:37:41 -0600, Ignoramus16069
wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

A strong gentleman who was picking up his own stuff that he won in
that auction, helped me load it into my pickup.

At home, I easily unloaded it myself. It weighed about 350 lbs, but
nicely balanced on the tailgate as I lowered it, first on two pallets,
then I pulled one, then I pulled another. No problem. And I am not
even strong.

The good news is that it seems to work fine. Powers up, spins, and
changes speed. Another good news is that it is NOT obnoxiously
loud. Really quite acceptable for a strong machine.

There is a diagram of speeds next to the speed adjustment handle. The
lowest speed depends on what is the motor RPM. For a 900 RPM motor, it
is 235 RPM, for a 1750 RPM motor, it is 475 RPM or so (going by
memory).

So, since the present motor is a 1750 RPM, this is a 475 RPM lowest
speed drill press. The motor seems to be the usual 56 frame size, so,
finding a replacement motor (say, 1 honest HP 900 RPM motor) should
not be a problem. I am xposting this to a woodworking newsgroup in
hopes that someone who wants a faster drill press, may want to swap my
1725 RPM 3/4HP motor, for a 900 RPM motor.

This is the hell of a "3/4HP motor", it is rated for 10 amps at 110V
and easily blew a overload switch on my outlet bar at startup. The
less honest people would rate it as a 1.5 HP motor.

The other bad news is that there are supposed to be three handles on
the crank that lowers and raises the spindle. I have all threee,
however, two holes are somewhat stripped. One hole is fine, so I can
raise and lower the spindle.

Thread looks like 1/2"-20 NF, and I have a corresponding tap, though I
doubt that I have a die for the handles. I will try to re-thread holes
and see if that would help.

The mysterious pedal turned out to be for raising and lowering the
spindle. It's great for quick hole making when I use two hands to hold
work.

I think that I will upgrade my basement 120v circuit to 20 amps,
though it is not necessary for the DP, but it is a good time to do it.

i
I have an 1150 that I have used on and off for the past 17 years. It
had a 3 phase motor 1725 rpm when I used it sometimes for 8 years.
That place went out of business so I bought a bunch of their tools. I
installed a single phase motor I had laying around. I am sure it is a
1725 rpm is on it. I have never had any issues drilling with that
speed. It may be a waste to get a slower motor. Maybe not. But I drill
wood usually. Maybe you need slower for big metal holes.

Helicoil for the handle problem.

Is it better to be standing on one leg when a drill (or other tool) grabs
the piece that you're holding by hand?

IMO, you're always better off clamping workpieces.

The following statement leads me to believe that you think the foot control
is going to be a great time-saver. Some folks that hurry can't count to 10
on their fingers.
The mysterious pedal turned out to be for raising and lowering the
spindle. It's great for quick hole making when I use two hands to hold
work.

Your shop practices may transfer to your son, so he would benefit from
seeing safe practices examples while you work, as safe operating procedures
aren't a waste of time.

WB
metalworking projects
http://www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html
............

"Ignoramus16069" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

A strong gentleman who was picking up his own stuff that he won in
that auction, helped me load it into my pickup.

At home, I easily unloaded it myself. It weighed about 350 lbs, but
nicely balanced on the tailgate as I lowered it, first on two pallets,
then I pulled one, then I pulled another. No problem. And I am not
even strong.

The good news is that it seems to work fine. Powers up, spins, and
changes speed. Another good news is that it is NOT obnoxiously
loud. Really quite acceptable for a strong machine.

There is a diagram of speeds next to the speed adjustment handle. The
lowest speed depends on what is the motor RPM. For a 900 RPM motor, it
is 235 RPM, for a 1750 RPM motor, it is 475 RPM or so (going by
memory).

So, since the present motor is a 1750 RPM, this is a 475 RPM lowest
speed drill press. The motor seems to be the usual 56 frame size, so,
finding a replacement motor (say, 1 honest HP 900 RPM motor) should
not be a problem. I am xposting this to a woodworking newsgroup in
hopes that someone who wants a faster drill press, may want to swap my
1725 RPM 3/4HP motor, for a 900 RPM motor.

This is the hell of a "3/4HP motor", it is rated for 10 amps at 110V
and easily blew a overload switch on my outlet bar at startup. The
less honest people would rate it as a 1.5 HP motor.

The other bad news is that there are supposed to be three handles on
the crank that lowers and raises the spindle. I have all threee,
however, two holes are somewhat stripped. One hole is fine, so I can
raise and lower the spindle.

Thread looks like 1/2"-20 NF, and I have a corresponding tap, though I
doubt that I have a die for the handles. I will try to re-thread holes
and see if that would help.

The mysterious pedal turned out to be for raising and lowering the
spindle. It's great for quick hole making when I use two hands to hold
work.

I think that I will upgrade my basement 120v circuit to 20 amps,
though it is not necessary for the DP, but it is a good time to do it.

i



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sat, 03 Mar 2007 14:23:44 GMT, Jim Behning wrote:
I have an 1150 that I have used on and off for the past 17 years. It
had a 3 phase motor 1725 rpm when I used it sometimes for 8 years.
That place went out of business so I bought a bunch of their tools. I
installed a single phase motor I had laying around. I am sure it is a
1725 rpm is on it. I have never had any issues drilling with that
speed. It may be a waste to get a slower motor. Maybe not. But I drill
wood usually. Maybe you need slower for big metal holes.

I mostly drill metal, though wood as well. If I find a two speed
motor, if such a thing exists, I might install it. For now I decided
not to mess with the press too much.

Helicoil for the handle problem.

Thanks. I simply re-threaded the hole, the handle went in deep enough
and seems to be fixed in place quite well.
i

On Sat, 3 Mar 2007 09:32:20 -0500, Wild Bill wrote:
Is it better to be standing on one leg when a drill (or other tool) grabs
the piece that you're holding by hand?

IMO, you're always better off clamping workpieces.

The following statement leads me to believe that you think the foot control
is going to be a great time-saver. Some folks that hurry can't count to 10
on their fingers.

Point taken. I would only use it for small stuff.

The mysterious pedal turned out to be for raising and lowering the
spindle. It's great for quick hole making when I use two hands to hold
work.

Your shop practices may transfer to your son, so he would benefit from
seeing safe practices examples while you work, as safe operating procedures
aren't a waste of time.

WB, that C face motor that you used for your 3-in-1 smithy machine,
does it have beefy enough bearings for the side loads caused by belt?

igor

WB
metalworking projects
http://www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html
...........

"Ignoramus16069" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

A strong gentleman who was picking up his own stuff that he won in
that auction, helped me load it into my pickup.

At home, I easily unloaded it myself. It weighed about 350 lbs, but
nicely balanced on the tailgate as I lowered it, first on two pallets,
then I pulled one, then I pulled another. No problem. And I am not
even strong.

The good news is that it seems to work fine. Powers up, spins, and
changes speed. Another good news is that it is NOT obnoxiously
loud. Really quite acceptable for a strong machine.

There is a diagram of speeds next to the speed adjustment handle. The
lowest speed depends on what is the motor RPM. For a 900 RPM motor, it
is 235 RPM, for a 1750 RPM motor, it is 475 RPM or so (going by
memory).

So, since the present motor is a 1750 RPM, this is a 475 RPM lowest
speed drill press. The motor seems to be the usual 56 frame size, so,
finding a replacement motor (say, 1 honest HP 900 RPM motor) should
not be a problem. I am xposting this to a woodworking newsgroup in
hopes that someone who wants a faster drill press, may want to swap my
1725 RPM 3/4HP motor, for a 900 RPM motor.

This is the hell of a "3/4HP motor", it is rated for 10 amps at 110V
and easily blew a overload switch on my outlet bar at startup. The
less honest people would rate it as a 1.5 HP motor.

The other bad news is that there are supposed to be three handles on
the crank that lowers and raises the spindle. I have all threee,
however, two holes are somewhat stripped. One hole is fine, so I can
raise and lower the spindle.

Thread looks like 1/2"-20 NF, and I have a corresponding tap, though I
doubt that I have a die for the handles. I will try to re-thread holes
and see if that would help.

The mysterious pedal turned out to be for raising and lowering the
spindle. It's great for quick hole making when I use two hands to hold
work.

I think that I will upgrade my basement 120v circuit to 20 amps,
though it is not necessary for the DP, but it is a good time to do it.

i

On Fri, 02 Mar 2007 17:37:41 -0600, Ignoramus16069 wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

For those who own this drill press, I uploaded two manuals for it, the
1966 manual and the more modern manual. They are now on the above
page. They are in PDF.

i

On Sat, 03 Mar 2007 08:15:27 -0600, Ignoramus12968
wrote:

On Sat, 03 Mar 2007 05:06:12 GMT, Tom Gardner wrote:

"Ignoramus16069" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

A strong gentleman who was picking up his own stuff that he won in
that auction, helped me load it into my pickup.
snip

Might you concider a VFD? If I fall into one, I'd do my new DP.


Tom, I do not know. It would be nice for a few reasons, like tapping
and reversal. Electrically, it is a hassle due to having to redo my
basement electrical wiring a lot.

i

For you folks wanting to tap in a drill press..might I suggest yall
start scrounging for a Procunier/Tapmatic/etc etc tapping unit.

Gunner

"Liberalism is a philosophy of consolation for Western civilization as it commits suicide"
- James Burnham

On Mar 3, 9:16 am, Ignoramus12968 ignoramus12...@NOSPAM.
12968.invalid wrote:
On Fri, 02 Mar 2007 17:37:41 -0600, Ignoramus16069 wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

For those who own this drill press, I uploaded two manuals for it, the
1966 manual and the more modern manual. They are now on the above
page. They are in PDF.

i

Ig,

Thanks for making the effort to provide documentation...it is
appreciated.

TMT

Your shop practices may transfer to your son, so he would benefit from
seeing safe practices examples while you work, as safe operating procedures
aren't a waste of time.


Safe operating procedures ARE NEVER a waste of time.

There are two groups of people...those who have been injured and those
who will be.

People never really understand the need for safety until they are
picking up body parts..hopefully not their own.

TMT

On Mar 3, 8:32 am, "Wild Bill" wrote:
Is it better to be standing on one leg when a drill (or other tool) grabs
the piece that you're holding by hand?

IMO, you're always better off clamping workpieces.

The following statement leads me to believe that you think the foot control
is going to be a great time-saver. Some folks that hurry can't count to 10
on their fingers.

The mysterious pedal turned out to be for raising and lowering the
spindle. It's great for quick hole making when I use two hands to hold
work.

Your shop practices may transfer to your son, so he would benefit from
seeing safe practices examples while you work, as safe operating procedures
aren't a waste of time.

WB
metalworking projectshttp://www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html
...........

"Ignoramus16069" wrote in message

...





http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

A strong gentleman who was picking up his own stuff that he won in
that auction, helped me load it into my pickup.

At home, I easily unloaded it myself. It weighed about 350 lbs, but
nicely balanced on the tailgate as I lowered it, first on two pallets,
then I pulled one, then I pulled another. No problem. And I am not
even strong.

The good news is that it seems to work fine. Powers up, spins, and
changes speed. Another good news is that it is NOT obnoxiously
loud. Really quite acceptable for a strong machine.

There is a diagram of speeds next to the speed adjustment handle. The
lowest speed depends on what is the motor RPM. For a 900 RPM motor, it
is 235 RPM, for a 1750 RPM motor, it is 475 RPM or so (going by
memory).

So, since the present motor is a 1750 RPM, this is a 475 RPM lowest
speed drill press. The motor seems to be the usual 56 frame size, so,
finding a replacement motor (say, 1 honest HP 900 RPM motor) should
not be a problem. I am xposting this to a woodworking newsgroup in
hopes that someone who wants a faster drill press, may want to swap my
1725 RPM 3/4HP motor, for a 900 RPM motor.

This is the hell of a "3/4HP motor", it is rated for 10 amps at 110V
and easily blew a overload switch on my outlet bar at startup. The
less honest people would rate it as a 1.5 HP motor.

The other bad news is that there are supposed to be three handles on
the crank that lowers and raises the spindle. I have all threee,
however, two holes are somewhat stripped. One hole is fine, so I can
raise and lower the spindle.

Thread looks like 1/2"-20 NF, and I have a corresponding tap, though I
doubt that I have a die for the handles. I will try to re-thread holes
and see if that would help.

The mysterious pedal turned out to be for raising and lowering the
spindle. It's great for quick hole making when I use two hands to hold
work.

I think that I will upgrade my basement 120v circuit to 20 amps,
though it is not necessary for the DP, but it is a good time to do it.

i

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Putting your manuals on the internet is a good idea to help others, but you
might also consider sending it to www.owwm.com so they can include it in
their archive. Most people look there when they need info on old woodworking
tools.

--
Charley


"Ignoramus12968" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 02 Mar 2007 17:37:41 -0600, Ignoramus16069
wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

For those who own this drill press, I uploaded two manuals for it, the
1966 manual and the more modern manual. They are now on the above
page. They are in PDF.

i

On 3 Mar 2007 08:43:47 -0800, Too_Many_Tools wrote:
On Mar 3, 9:16 am, Ignoramus12968 ignoramus12...@NOSPAM.
12968.invalid wrote:
On Fri, 02 Mar 2007 17:37:41 -0600, Ignoramus16069 wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

For those who own this drill press, I uploaded two manuals for it, the
1966 manual and the more modern manual. They are now on the above
page. They are in PDF.

i

Ig,

Thanks for making the effort to provide documentation...it is
appreciated.

I even set up an ebay auction with free links for manuals, just to
help a few guys out there who do not want to pay $20 for a pdf file...
It is a "service to community" auction where you do not need to bid to
download manuals.

i

Ig, the shaft bearing is not likely to be adequate for substantial side
loading, since the motor had a worm gear reduction box on it, which was
removed.

I installed a new, quality ball bearing (NTN, IIRC) when I removed the
gearbox. I figure that for the limited use the machine gets, the bearing
will provide a worthwhile service life, probably, but time will tell. Since
the bearing was only about $11, I'm not too worried about it. The variable
speed made a dramatic difference in ease-of-use for the machine.

The PM DC motor modification was an experimental project that turned out
well, since I was able to utilize some components that were very affordable
to obtain. The gearhead motor was only $10 at a local salvage yard, and the
new GE drive was about $20, from an eBay auction.

If I were to separate/adapt another gearhead motor for a different
application, I'd consider adding a plate to support a bearing at the end of
the shaft.

WB
metalworking projects
http://www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html
............

"Ignoramus12968" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 3 Mar 2007 09:32:20 -0500, Wild Bill
wrote:
Is it better to be standing on one leg when a drill (or other tool)
grabs
the piece that you're holding by hand?

IMO, you're always better off clamping workpieces.

The following statement leads me to believe that you think the foot
control
is going to be a great time-saver. Some folks that hurry can't count to
10
on their fingers.

Point taken. I would only use it for small stuff.

The mysterious pedal turned out to be for raising and lowering the
spindle. It's great for quick hole making when I use two hands to hold
work.

Your shop practices may transfer to your son, so he would benefit from
seeing safe practices examples while you work, as safe operating
procedures
aren't a waste of time.

WB, that C face motor that you used for your 3-in-1 smithy machine,
does it have beefy enough bearings for the side loads caused by belt?

igor

WB
metalworking projects
http://www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html
...........

"Ignoramus16069" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

A strong gentleman who was picking up his own stuff that he won in
that auction, helped me load it into my pickup.

At home, I easily unloaded it myself. It weighed about 350 lbs, but
nicely balanced on the tailgate as I lowered it, first on two pallets,
then I pulled one, then I pulled another. No problem. And I am not
even strong.

The good news is that it seems to work fine. Powers up, spins, and
changes speed. Another good news is that it is NOT obnoxiously
loud. Really quite acceptable for a strong machine.

There is a diagram of speeds next to the speed adjustment handle. The
lowest speed depends on what is the motor RPM. For a 900 RPM motor, it
is 235 RPM, for a 1750 RPM motor, it is 475 RPM or so (going by
memory).

So, since the present motor is a 1750 RPM, this is a 475 RPM lowest
speed drill press. The motor seems to be the usual 56 frame size, so,
finding a replacement motor (say, 1 honest HP 900 RPM motor) should
not be a problem. I am xposting this to a woodworking newsgroup in
hopes that someone who wants a faster drill press, may want to swap my
1725 RPM 3/4HP motor, for a 900 RPM motor.

This is the hell of a "3/4HP motor", it is rated for 10 amps at 110V
and easily blew a overload switch on my outlet bar at startup. The
less honest people would rate it as a 1.5 HP motor.

The other bad news is that there are supposed to be three handles on
the crank that lowers and raises the spindle. I have all threee,
however, two holes are somewhat stripped. One hole is fine, so I can
raise and lower the spindle.

Thread looks like 1/2"-20 NF, and I have a corresponding tap, though I
doubt that I have a die for the handles. I will try to re-thread holes
and see if that would help.

The mysterious pedal turned out to be for raising and lowering the
spindle. It's great for quick hole making when I use two hands to hold
work.

I think that I will upgrade my basement 120v circuit to 20 amps,
though it is not necessary for the DP, but it is a good time to do it.

i






--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

I even set up an ebay auction with free links for manuals, just to
help a few guys out there who do not want to pay $20 for a pdf file...
It is a "service to community" auction where you do not need to bid to
download manuals.


Good for you Ig.

I hold a dim view of those who charge for this type of information.

TMT

On Mar 3, 12:55 pm, Ignoramus12968 ignoramus12...@NOSPAM.
12968.invalid wrote:
On 3 Mar 2007 08:43:47 -0800, Too_Many_Tools wrote:

On Mar 3, 9:16 am, Ignoramus12968 ignoramus12...@NOSPAM.
12968.invalid wrote:
On Fri, 02 Mar 2007 17:37:41 -0600, Ignoramus16069 wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Powermatic-1150-Drill-Press/

For those who own this drill press, I uploaded two manuals for it, the
1966 manual and the more modern manual. They are now on the above
page. They are in PDF.

i

Ig,

Thanks for making the effort to provide documentation...it is
appreciated.

I even set up an ebay auction with free links for manuals, just to
help a few guys out there who do not want to pay $20 for a pdf file...
It is a "service to community" auction where you do not need to bid to
download manuals.

i