Has anyone built a dollhouse using a stick-built frame?

I'm thinking of doing something like that, using basic construction
techniques for the '90s (1890s), but my brain is simply pulling a plug
when it comes time to figure a reasonably fast and secure method for
the framing members. Epoxy? Expensive, but workable. Short brads?

I've built dollhouses before, but never using stick-built methods.
Plywood is easier, but...

This is probably overkill, but it's something I figured might be fun to
do (or it might drive me even further round the bend).

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...
Has anyone built a dollhouse using a stick-built frame?

I'm thinking of doing something like that, using basic construction
techniques for the '90s (1890s), but my brain is simply pulling a plug
when it comes time to figure a reasonably fast and secure method for
the framing members. Epoxy? Expensive, but workable. Short brads?

I've built dollhouses before, but never using stick-built methods.
Plywood is easier, but...

This is probably overkill, but it's something I figured might be fun to
do (or it might drive me even further round the bend).


Of course models used for demonstrating construction techniques are often
done this way. Depending on handling, you might just go with CA for a
model, giving instant gratification, all the way to proportioned bass and a
brad driver, including the almost inevitable "peeks" for a real frame.

For a dollhouse, plywood's all you need, unless you're planning a cutaway.
Why work so hard on something you can't see?

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...
Has anyone built a dollhouse using a stick-built frame?

I'm thinking of doing something like that, using basic construction
techniques for the '90s (1890s), but my brain is simply pulling a plug
when it comes time to figure a reasonably fast and secure method for
the framing members. Epoxy? Expensive, but workable. Short brads?

I've built dollhouses before, but never using stick-built methods.
Plywood is easier, but...

This is probably overkill, but it's something I figured might be fun to
do (or it might drive me even further round the bend).


Hey Charlie,

When I was about 14 years old I built a 1/10th scale model of a wood working
shop with equipment and all.
I made the lumber with a saber saw mounted in a table and from a scrap piece
of cedar trim. It had the usual 2x4 framing and a hinged rafter roof.
Elmer's glue held the 2x4's in place with no siding.
This worked fine until we had a hurricane blow into town, pop out a window
above the model and drench the shop. The 2x4's warped and it had to be
scrapped.

On 20 Jan 2007 04:59:41 -0800, "Charlie Self"
wrote:

Has anyone built a dollhouse using a stick-built frame?

I'm thinking of doing something like that, using basic construction
techniques for the '90s (1890s), but my brain is simply pulling a plug
when it comes time to figure a reasonably fast and secure method for
the framing members. Epoxy? Expensive, but workable. Short brads?

I've built dollhouses before, but never using stick-built methods.
Plywood is easier, but...

This is probably overkill, but it's something I figured might be fun to
do (or it might drive me even further round the bend).

Just a thought but try Titebond or whatver and make a little gusset of
glue on either side of the joint. I know that it's not _supposed_ to
be strong on end grain but in small sections that's strong enough to
hold fins on rockets (there's as much area in the gussets as there is
in the contact surface) and should be plenty to hold things together
until you get the paneling or planking on the walls. Bond the top and
bottom planks and you're essentially using them as reinforcing plates
which should hold the joints together just fine.

Beyond that, you might want to find the nearest hobby shop that
specializes in radio controlled airplanes and find out what those guys
are using these days.

On Jan 20, 8:39*am, "George" wrote:
*Depending on handling, you might just go with CA for a
model, giving instant gratification, all the way to proportioned bass and a
brad driver, including the almost inevitable "peeks" for a real frame.

For a dollhouse, plywood's all you need, unless you're planning a cutaway.
Why work so hard on something you can't see?

OK. CA makes sense. Yeah, well...two reponses for the "can't see
argument." It's sort of like hidden dovetails, which can't be seen. It
may prove to be so difficult I abandon it after a few days, but I think
it's going to be fun to try.

The smart ass answer, one I picked up from another boot at Parris
Island, a few years ago: "My daddy says someone who doesn't shine the
backs of his shoes probably also doesn't wipe his ass." Just 'cause you
can't see it doesn't mean it's not important.

I've also noticed that some kits are, or were, built that way. I need
to go find a couple, but there is a paucity of such places now that
chain crafts stores have taken over the business.

"Leon" wrote in message
et...

This worked fine until we had a hurricane blow into town, pop out a window
above the model and drench the shop. The 2x4's warped and it had to be
scrapped.


A real-life lesson made to order!
Carla?
--
NuWave Dave in Houston

Cyanoacrylate. Pretty much standard for model building these days.

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...
Has anyone built a dollhouse using a stick-built frame?

I'm thinking of doing something like that, using basic construction
techniques for the '90s (1890s), but my brain is simply pulling a plug
when it comes time to figure a reasonably fast and secure method for
the framing members. Epoxy? Expensive, but workable. Short brads?

I've built dollhouses before, but never using stick-built methods.
Plywood is easier, but...

This is probably overkill, but it's something I figured might be fun to
do (or it might drive me even further round the bend).

"NuWaveDave" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
et...

This worked fine until we had a hurricane blow into town, pop out a
window above the model and drench the shop. The 2x4's warped and it had
to be scrapped.


A real-life lesson made to order!
Carla?



Celia, 1970

Carla was my first followed by Beulah and Celia in Corpus Christi and then
Alicia in Houston in 1983.

"Leon" wrote in message

Carla was my first

And your first 9/11 most likely ...

followed by Beulah and Celia in Corpus Christi and then
Alicia in Houston in 1983.

Audrey, in 1957, is the first one that really caught my attention. I was 14
at the time. Wasn't much of an impact on us, but we got to miss school.

Alicia is the first to directly effect me more than a few hours ... I lived
in the Heights then and it looked a war zone. We were without power for 2
weeks, but other than a downed tree, we suffered no real damage. One of our
neighbors was not so lucky, and was killed by a tree falling on the house.

Allison/2001, no hurricane but a tropical storm, cost me my home due to
flooding. I NEVER want to go through that again. I'm still looking for
"stuff" I thought I still had, but don't.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/06/07

On 20 Jan 2007 04:59:41 -0800, "Charlie Self"
wrote:

I'm thinking of doing something like that, using basic construction
techniques for the '90s (1890s), but my brain is simply pulling a plug
when it comes time to figure a reasonably fast and secure method for
the framing members. Epoxy? Expensive, but workable. Short brads?

I have a question, how are you going to space the 2x4,s a jig? If you
do not have to adjust CA would be good, but then what do you make the
jig out of UHMW? You could also make long wall sections then cut them
to fit with a jig right.

Do not forget the wind braces.

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

Alicia is the first to directly effect me more than a few hours ... I
lived
in the Heights then and it looked a war zone. We were without power for 2
weeks, but other than a downed tree, we suffered no real damage. One of
our
neighbors was not so lucky, and was killed by a tree falling on the house.

I was living on W25th between Shepherd and Durham for Alicia. We were
so lucky; our power outage lasted less than a day! But I remember the water
completely covered the yard, front and back, one of a few times that having
a pier and beam foundation was of serious advantage. I still had pecan wood
when I sold that house in 1989.
--
NuWave Dave in Houston

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message

Carla was my first

And your first 9/11 most likely ...

I was 7 and like you, remember missing school for a couple of days. Same
with Beulah.
Cielia scared me to death. We had a whole roof setting the street in front
of our house. We sat in the master bathroom during the whole storm and felt
the walls shake constantly. Yelling was the only way to comunicate. IIRC
electricity was out for several weeks. We went back to school before we had
electricity restored. I remember seeing a Uhaul trailer setting on top of a
house and almost all man hole covers had popped up and were setting beside
the holes.
I ran from Rita because of Cielia.

Sat, Jan 20, 2007, 4:59am (EST-3): (Charlie*Self)
doth query:
Has anyone built a dollhouse using a stick-built frame? snip Epoxy?
Expensive, but workable. Short brads?
snip

Hiya Charlie. Haven't done one myself, but have seen realistic
examples, about like shrunk buildings. They always used short, thin,
brads, just like as if they'd been a regular size. Course they weren't
for a lot of handling, just display. If what yer doin' is gonna be
handled or played with, might want some Titebond in there too.
Otherwise, I'd sau just brads.



JOAT
Bugrit. Millennium hand AND shrimp.

On Jan 20, 12:55*pm, Markem wrote:
On 20 Jan 2007 04:59:41 -0800, "Charlie Self"
wrote:

I'm thinking of doing something like that, using basic construction
techniques for the '90s (1890s), but my brain is simply pulling a plug
when it comes time to figure a reasonably fast and secure method for
the framing members. Epoxy? Expensive, but workable. Short brads?I have a question, how are you going to space the 2x4,s a jig? If you
do not have to adjust CA would be good, but then what do you make the
jig out of UHMW? You could also make long wall sections then cut them
to fit with a jig right.

Do not forget the wind braces.


Probably a UHMW plastic, yes. I've got plenty around here, as a friend
dropped a bundle off when he moved up north a few years ago.

Inlet bracing. You know, I need to study that one: I'm pretty sure it
was used, but back in those days, they mostly used balloon framing, and
it has been a LONG time since I've even seen a diagram.

I started out thinking I'd make it brick, but then realized back in
Victorian days, very little brick veneer was used. Solid brick
construction on a large dollhouse might well be a ticket to the
nuthouse. Make or buy the bricks and then pretend you're a miniature
mason. I think not. There will be enough work with tweezers anyway.

This dollhouse is going to be an immense amount of work before I even
start cutting wood, but plans and a jig or two will make it easily
repeatable.

By the time I get it finished, I may have a great-granddaughter ready
for it, though right now that's almost totally wish with no factual
back-up.

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...
Has anyone built a dollhouse using a stick-built frame?

I'm thinking of doing something like that, using basic
construction
techniques for the '90s (1890s), but my brain is simply pulling
a plug
when it comes time to figure a reasonably fast and secure
method for
the framing members. Epoxy? Expensive, but workable. Short
brads?

I've built dollhouses before, but never using stick-built
methods.
Plywood is easier, but...

This is probably overkill, but it's something I figured might
be fun to
do (or it might drive me even further round the bend).


Charlie,

Basswood is the way to go for this type of project. Even in small
stips it's relatively stable, works easily, sands smooth, and
takes a decent finish. It's all I use, except for the hardwood
dowels for the masts and spars, for ship building.

Many of the tools used by "plank-on-frame" model ship builders
are also useful for constructing "stick built" doll houses.
Micro-Mark (http://www.micro-mark.com) has a fair, but my no
means complete, assortment of these. Check the model ship
building sites for other ideas.

At Micro-Mark the general Model Ship area is at:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...=RET01229&Acti
on=Catalog&Type=Department&ID=35

These Plank-on-Frame Clamps work very well on thin material:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...=RET01229&Acti
on=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=60926

Some folks use the smaller of these Mini-Nails to give the
appearance they are holding things together. Personally I don't,
as in the era I usually model pegs were used.:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...=RET01229&Acti
on=Catalog&Type=Department&ID=140

If you do use the Mini-Nails one of these might be handy.
Push-Hammers for Mini-Nails:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...=RET01229&Acti
on=Catalog&Type=Department&ID=17

And you'll definately want some of this Watch Crystal Cement if
you'll be "glazing" your windows with clear plastic. Unlike CA
and styrene cements, the fumes will not cause the plastic to
fog:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...=RET01229&Acti
on=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=80343

You should also check out Black Bear Construction Co. for "stick
built" wood model construction tools and as a source of scale
sized basswood "dimensional" lumber.

Tools are at: http://www.blackbearcc.com/Tools.htm

Wood is at: http://www.blackbearcc.com/wood2.htm

Or you could go directly to the source for model building
basswood. The list of what's available is at. Note the various
types of flooring and siding available:

http://www.midwestproducts.com/catal..._grp_id=8&sa1_
id=15&sa2_id=26

Back up one level if you want to check out their walnut, cherry,
etc., selections.

Have fun,

Len

Hi Charlie,

You might want to consider CA (Super Glue) with an accelerator spray. Apply
a drop of glue, fix the position, hit it with the zap juice, and it's done.
Move on to the next joint and repeat.

We use the accelerator spray at work on a number of things we repair, it
takes the waiting and holding issues right out of the mix ... and in your
case, eliminating the need for fixtures or jigs to hold things together.

Also, I think I have an older doll house kit stashed away somewhere, let me
dig it out and see if it has any info you could use (you're welcome to the
kit if you want).

Regards,

Rick






"Charlie Self" wrote ...


OK. CA makes sense.

Model railroaders have stick built bridges that might give you some
tips.
Check out their special interest books,
hobby supply catalogs, and visit a rr display.
They use scale cut bass wood available at craft stores. They even use
tiny mitre cutters.
Hope you're a patient man, because as a builder of stick built old time
model airplanes, this will take about 4X what you imagine. But it's a
labor of love!

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...
Has anyone built a dollhouse using a stick-built frame?

I'm thinking of doing something like that, using basic
construction
techniques for the '90s (1890s), but my brain is simply pulling
a plug
when it comes time to figure a reasonably fast and secure
method for
the framing members. Epoxy? Expensive, but workable. Short
brads?

I've built dollhouses before, but never using stick-built
methods.
Plywood is easier, but...

This is probably overkill, but it's something I figured might
be fun to
do (or it might drive me even further round the bend).


Charlie,

Sounds fascinating. What scale would you be using? I sure would like to see
pictures of the progress.
What would you use for the wood lath? And the plaster?

Max

(Elliott) wrote in news:14117-45B2D3F4-798@storefull-
3136.bay.webtv.net:

Model railroaders have stick built bridges that might give you some
tips.
Check out their special interest books,
hobby supply catalogs, and visit a rr display.
They use scale cut bass wood available at craft stores. They even use
tiny mitre cutters.
Hope you're a patient man, because as a builder of stick built old time
model airplanes, this will take about 4X what you imagine. But it's a
labor of love!



Harbor Freight has a couple small power saws if you're doing a lot of
cutting. One's a 3" table saw, the other's a miter saw. (I don't know
if it's a compound miter saw.)

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

wrote:

Hope you're a patient man, because as a builder of stick built old time
model airplanes, this will take about 4X what you imagine. But it's a
labor of love!

You do tickle the cob webs of my memory.

Spent a lot of time building balsa, stick model airplanes in my youth.

Lots of straight pins and quick dry, Testors model airplane glue gets
the job done.

Even won a few prizes at the County fair with some of them.

This was long before glue sniffing was the craze.

Don't have a clue if Testors is still in business.

Lew


Lew

It is.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message news:JzMsh.13706
Don't have a clue if Testors is still in business.

Lew Hodgett wrote:

| wrote:
|
| Hope you're a patient man, because as a builder of stick built
| old time model airplanes, this will take about 4X what you
| imagine. But it's a labor of love!
|
| You do tickle the cob webs of my memory.
|
| Spent a lot of time building balsa, stick model airplanes in my
| youth.
|
| Lots of straight pins and quick dry, Testors model airplane glue
| gets
| the job done.
|
| Even won a few prizes at the County fair with some of them.

What's even more fun is that there're people building "stick models"
with spruce and epoxy and Dacron that when finished, they climb in and
fly.

AFAICT from looking, it's the same kind of construction - but they do
seem a lot more preoccupied with making everything "just so" than I
remember being while putting my old Comet models together...

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

On Jan 20, 9:48*pm, "Max" wrote:
"Charlie Self" wrote in message
oups.com...
Has anyone built a dollhouse using a stick-built frame?

I'm thinking of doing something like that, using basic
construction
techniques for the '90s (1890s), but my brain is simply pulling
a plug
when it comes time to figure a reasonably fast and secure
method for
the framing members. Epoxy? Expensive, but workable. Short
brads?

I've built dollhouses before, but never using stick-built
methods.
Plywood is easier, but...

This is probably overkill, but it's something I figured might
be fun to
do (or it might drive me even further round the bend).

Charlie,Sounds fascinating. What scale would you be using? *I sure would like to see
pictures of the progress.
What would you use for the wood lath? And the plaster?


I'm not sure it's going to happen, at least as a framed dollhouse. I
spent a day cutting enough wood to frame one end (small) wall. And I
mean a day! About seven hours.

I wouldn't live long enough to finish the thing. Scale of whatever
design I choose is going to be standard 1"=11.

And it's materials, and the requisite techniques, such as wood lath and
plaster that are causing the final idea slippage. The wood lath is
probably no harder than cutting siding, but the plaster...hell, it's
nearly impossible to find someone who knows how to plaster a full sized
wall these days. Figuring out what to use and how to use it for a tiny
wall is a good way to reduce your entire vocabulary to two or three
gibberish words.

On Jan 20, 8:59*pm, "Len" wrote:

Wow! Len, thanks a million. A few hours checking catalogs--the joys of
a dial-up modem--and I may change back to doing a stick framed house,
if I can manage to convert one scale to another with the materials. It
has to be one helluva lot easier to buy planks and siding and framing
lumber than to do as I did part of yesterday and too much of today. And
basswood is a better choice than yellow poplar, I'm sure, though the
poplar I've got here is super dry and straight.

Charlie Self wrote:

| I'm not sure it's going to happen, at least as a framed dollhouse. I
| spent a day cutting enough wood to frame one end (small) wall. And I
| mean a day! About seven hours.
|
| I wouldn't live long enough to finish the thing. Scale of whatever
| design I choose is going to be standard 1"=11.
|
| And it's materials, and the requisite techniques, such as wood lath
| and
| plaster that are causing the final idea slippage. The wood lath is
| probably no harder than cutting siding, but the plaster...hell, it's
| nearly impossible to find someone who knows how to plaster a full
| sized
| wall these days. Figuring out what to use and how to use it for a
| tiny
| wall is a good way to reduce your entire vocabulary to two or three
| gibberish words.

Hmm - and weren't they still using cut nails in the 1890's? vbeg

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...


On Jan 20, 8:59pm, "Len" wrote:

Wow! Len, thanks a million. A few hours checking catalogs--the joys of
a dial-up modem--and I may change back to doing a stick framed house,
if I can manage to convert one scale to another with the materials. It
has to be one helluva lot easier to buy planks and siding and framing
lumber than to do as I did part of yesterday and too much of today. And
basswood is a better choice than yellow poplar, I'm sure, though the
poplar I've got here is super dry and straight.

Charlie,
If you do go ahead with this project, please take pictures. I (for one, and
I'm sure there are plenty of others) would really enjoy seeing the works in
progress.

Max

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...


On Jan 20, 8:59pm, "Len" wrote:

Wow! Len, thanks a million. A few hours checking catalogs--the
joys of
a dial-up modem--and I may change back to doing a stick framed
house,
if I can manage to convert one scale to another with the
materials. It
has to be one helluva lot easier to buy planks and siding and
framing
lumber than to do as I did part of yesterday and too much of
today. And
basswood is a better choice than yellow poplar, I'm sure, though
the
poplar I've got here is super dry and straight.

You're more than welcome Charlie.

I think you'll find this web page handy for doing 1:x to 1:y
scale conversions:

http://www.wwmodelclub.org/extra/sd_scalecalc2.htm

You might also find a "feet/inch and fractions" calculator from
the BORG handy.

Len

On Jan 21, 3:07*pm, "Morris Dovey" wrote:
Charlie Self wrote:| I'm not sure it's going to happen, at least as a framed dollhouse. I
| spent a day cutting enough wood to frame one end (small) wall. And I
| mean a day! About seven hours.
|
| I wouldn't live long enough to finish the thing. Scale of whatever
| design I choose is going to be standard 1"=11.
|
| And it's materials, and the requisite techniques, such as wood lath
| and
| plaster that are causing the final idea slippage. The wood lath is
| probably no harder than cutting siding, but the plaster...hell, it's
| nearly impossible to find someone who knows how to plaster a full
| sized
| wall these days. Figuring out what to use and how to use it for a
| tiny
| wall is a good way to reduce your entire vocabulary to two or three
| gibberish words.

Hmm - and weren't they still using cut nails in the 1890's? vbeg


Oh, yeah. I've forgotten the general cut-off date, but the '90s sounds
like an era where there were mixed types.

Another point, too, is I don't really think I want to deal with framing
miniature roofs on some of those Victorian tower concepts. Today, you
can't hire a slate roofer, in most places, who can deal with the
full-sized versions. That's not nearly as difficult as framing the
thing.

My wife's cousin, who is a successful upscale building contractor,
notes that there's really nothing difficult about building today's
homes: they're all based on the 90 deg. angle. As were the Victorian
homes, but inside, and out, the square got tossed for the protractor
and compass, with lots of round work.

My vestigial math skills went and hid as soon as I considered that.

Maybe Craftsman style?

Charlie Self wrote:

| Another point, too, is I don't really think I want to deal with
| framing
| miniature roofs on some of those Victorian tower concepts. Today,
| you
| can't hire a slate roofer, in most places, who can deal with the
| full-sized versions. That's not nearly as difficult as framing the
| thing.

I don't think the framing would be as difficult as you're making it
out to be; but a slate roof sounds fairly gruesome - first you'd have
to split the slate to scale, then you'd need a slate hammer small
enough to tap out the nail holes, ...

How about a copper roof?

| My wife's cousin, who is a successful upscale building contractor,
| notes that there's really nothing difficult about building today's
| homes: they're all based on the 90 deg. angle. As were the Victorian
| homes, but inside, and out, the square got tossed for the protractor
| and compass, with lots of round work.
|
| My vestigial math skills went and hid as soon as I considered that.

Not to worry - just get yourself a CAD package and let it worry about
the trig. :-)

| Maybe Craftsman style?

Much overdone. /Everybody's/ done that already - might as well just
_buy_ a doll house.

B'sides, just think how much fun it'll be to do all that gingerbread
trim. Hmm - I bet John Morehead could help out with that part...

(Speaking of whom, anybody heard from John lately?)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

Morris Dovey wrote:

What's even more fun is that there're people building "stick models"
with spruce and epoxy and Dacron that when finished, they climb in and
fly.


SFWIW, that's exactly the method used to build the male mold for the
boat I'm building.

Started out with 2x12x24ft Doug Fir timber and cut them up to yield
1-1/2W x 5/8 tk x 24 ft long stringers.

Then cut 12:1 scarfs on the end and glued together to get 60 ft strips.

Spend a whole Saturday doing that.

Filled a dumpster with saw dust.

My best guess was I made about 6,000 ft of cuts that day.

Those strips were then attached to the profiles with deck screws.
Probably had 10,000 of them screwed in before it was over.

All of that ended up in the landfill once the hull was finished.


Lew

On Jan 21, 4:54*pm, "Morris Dovey" wrote:
I don't think the framing would be as difficult as you're making it
out to be; but a slate roof sounds fairly gruesome - first you'd have
to split the slate to scale, then you'd need a slate hammer small
enough to tap out the nail holes, ...

How about a copper roof?

Copper is fine. I'd almost bet that before I'm through looking, I find
someone making scale slate slabs for roofing.

| My vestigial math skills went and hid as soon as I considered that.

Not to worry - just get yourself a CAD package and let it worry about
the trig. :-)

Ew. I have to use CAD, but, so far, about 75% of the time when I
measure an angle from the CAD, or, rather, when I transfer the measured
angle, it is miserably inexact in real life. This may be my ineptness,
but it's a great hindrance anyway.


B'sides, just think how much fun it'll be to do all that gingerbread
trim. Hmm - I bet John Morehead could help out with that part...

Gingerbread trim is the easiest part--about every bit of it you could
desire is available in different scales, from porch posts on to gable
end trim.

I dunno. I may work up a replica of a house that no longer exists, my
grandmother's place. The farm that surrounded it is a development now,
and the house burned down years ago, but...I can still remember a lot
of it. Doesn't have to be accurate, sort of a late 19th century
Piedmont Virginia farmhouse in a stucco design.

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...

Ew. I have to use CAD, but, so far, about 75% of the time when I
measure an angle from the CAD, or, rather, when I transfer the measured
angle, it is miserably inexact in real life.

If everything was made according to that plan and done accurately, the
angles would work. It's inexactness in the work, not the software.

OK Charlie. This is for when you get all tired and frustrated from
working on it. Take a look at this and thank the Gods you aren't this
anal. http://www.aonx97.dsl.pipex.com/int-...2/intpage2.htm



JOAT
Bugrit. Millennium hand AND shrimp.

On Jan 22, 12:27*am, (J T) wrote:
* * *OK Charlie. *This is for when you get all tired and frustrated from
working on it. *Take a look at this and thank the Gods you aren't this
anal. *http://www.aonx97.dsl.pipex.com/int-...2/intpage2.htm

JOAT
Bugrit. *Millennium hand AND shrimp.

That Norton engine looks like a full-sized one I helped rebuild too
many years ago. The blued pipe makes me think that model actually runs.

These guys are much better at miniaturization than I ever will be.
Great stuff there.

On Jan 21, 10:01*pm, "CW" wrote:
"Charlie Self" wrote in oglegroups.com...

Ew. I have to use CAD, but, so far, about 75% of the time when I
measure an angle from the CAD, or, rather, when I transfer the measured
angle, it is miserably inexact in real life.

If everything was made according to that plan and done accurately, the
angles would work. It's inexactness in the work, not the software.

Maybe. But when I spec a 45 degree angle, place it according to the
program and come back later to find it's a 44.2 deg. angle, according
to the program that set it at 45 deg., I do wonder. Autosketch 8, if
you're wondering, and it has been a fairly consistent "feature" of AS
for some time now. It does great with 90 degrees. Otherwise, I guess
I'm just speccing it incorrectly, eh?

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...


On Jan 21, 10:01pm, "CW" wrote:
"Charlie Self" wrote in
oglegroups.com...

Ew. I have to use CAD, but, so far, about 75% of the time when I
measure an angle from the CAD, or, rather, when I transfer the measured
angle, it is miserably inexact in real life.

If everything was made according to that plan and done accurately, the
angles would work. It's inexactness in the work, not the software.

Maybe. But when I spec a 45 degree angle, place it according to the
program and come back later to find it's a 44.2 deg. angle, according
to the program that set it at 45 deg., I do wonder. Autosketch 8, if
you're wondering, and it has been a fairly consistent "feature" of AS
for some time now. It does great with 90 degrees. Otherwise, I guess
I'm just speccing it incorrectly, eh?


Check your "snaps" setting. I use TurboCad (still on version 7) and I
often forget to release the "snaps" feature from the snaps-to-grid setting.
That causes the end result to jump to the nearest grid point vs. my intended
point.
Just a thought.
--
NuWave Dave in Houston

On Jan 22, 9:27*am, "NuWaveDave" wrote:

* * Check your "snaps" setting. *I use TurboCad (still on version 7) *and I
often forget to release the "snaps" feature from the snaps-to-grid setting.
That causes the end result to jump to the nearest grid point vs. my intended
point.
* * Just a thought.
--

Can I bang my head against the desk now, or should I save it for later.
Sheest. Stupid, long term mistake. The joys of DIY learning.

Thank you!

On Jan 21, 3:57*pm, "Len" wrote:
"Charlie Self" wrote in oglegroups.com...

On Jan 20, 8:59pm, "Len" wrote:

Wow! Len, thanks a million. A few hours checking catalogs--the
joys of
a dial-up modem--and I may change back to doing a stick framed
house,
if I can manage to convert one scale to another with the
materials. It
has to be one helluva lot easier to buy planks and siding and
framing
lumber than to do as I did part of yesterday and too much of
today. And
basswood is a better choice than yellow poplar, I'm sure, though
the
poplar I've got here is super dry and straight.

You're more than welcome Charlie.

I think you'll find this web page handy for doing 1:x to 1:y
scale conversions:

http://www.wwmodelclub.org/extra/sd_scalecalc2.htm

You might also find a "feet/inch and fractions" calculator from
the BORG handy.


Very handy web site...first glance told me the scales for even the
largest model railroads are too small. Way too small, as in O gauge is
1:48, while my needs are 1:12.

I've got one (or more) of those calculators around here. Amongst at
least 50,000 other pieces of paper and cardboard. I may just make the
70 mile round trip to the store, though, because looking for needles in
haystacks is not my specialty.

Mon, Jan 22, 2007, 3:38am (EST-3) (Charlie*Self)
doth sayeth:
That Norton engine looks like a full-sized one I helped rebuild too many
years ago. The blued pipe makes me think that model actually runs.
These guys are much better at miniaturization than I ever will be. Great
stuff there.

I would think it would at least be capable of running anyway.
Those guys are pretty serious about stuff like that.

Some where I've got a link stuck away to a V-8 engine - about the
size of a shoe box - complete with a couple of MPEGs of it running -
with sound. Sounds like a very large, very ****ed, bumble bee, in a
very big hurry. Very cool.

So, now when you get frustrated, you can look at that page, and
decide it maybe isn't so bad after all LOL I don't know if you've
ever been to the Smithsonian, but they've got a rather large doll house
on exhibit, about 5 stories or so, if I recall right. And, I believe
it's all framed, just like a full size house. Last time I was there was
about 1972-3 - stationed at the Pentagon, and visited the Smithsonian
every 3 months or so. If you decide to visit it, during the cold
weather is the best time, loads less visitors then, and you should be
able to park just about in front of the doors to each building. In the
summer you'd probably be lucyk to park withing 10 blocks of the
building. I'd drive and park in the winter; in the summer I'd usually
walk over, and take a taxi back - otherwise way too much hassle parking,
and I'd wind up walking further in the end.
Oh, yeah. Are you gonna scale the dollhouse to a specific size
doll? There are rules, charts, dimensions, whatever, for that type of
thing. I've seen them on my searching, but never kept anything. Barbie
dolls for example. Or, in your case, maybe GI Joe. LMAO



JOAT
Bugrit. Millennium hand AND shrimp.

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
ups.com...


On Jan 21, 3:57pm, "Len" wrote:
"Charlie Self" wrote in
oglegroups.com.
...

On Jan 20, 8:59pm, "Len" wrote:

Wow! Len, thanks a million. A few hours checking catalogs--the
joys of
a dial-up modem--and I may change back to doing a stick framed
house,
if I can manage to convert one scale to another with the
materials. It
has to be one helluva lot easier to buy planks and siding and
framing
lumber than to do as I did part of yesterday and too much of
today. And
basswood is a better choice than yellow poplar, I'm sure,
though
the
poplar I've got here is super dry and straight.

You're more than welcome Charlie.

I think you'll find this web page handy for doing 1:x to 1:y
scale conversions:

http://www.wwmodelclub.org/extra/sd_scalecalc2.htm

You might also find a "feet/inch and fractions" calculator from
the BORG handy.


Very handy web site...first glance told me the scales for even
the
largest model railroads are too small. Way too small, as in O
gauge is
1:48, while my needs are 1:12.

I've got one (or more) of those calculators around here. Amongst
at
least 50,000 other pieces of paper and cardboard. I may just make
the
70 mile round trip to the store, though, because looking for
needles in
haystacks is not my specialty.

Charlie,

If you're doing 1:12 all you need is a decent architects ruler.
It will have a 1" = 1' scale, with the first 'foot' marked off in
inches.

Len