DIYbanter - Applying Stain

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I'm pretty much a home improvement jack-of-all-trades, and for years I've
been applying one thin coat of stain, wiping it off right away and going,
that's too light. Crap. But this last time, I had to match a dark cherry
shade with Minwax stain. So I used the following method:
Apply the sealer (on pine)
Apply a coat of stain without wiping it off and allow about 10 minutes,
then feather it lightly to remove streaks before it sets with a brush.
Apply another coat and do the same thing.
And another, as many as it takes to get to the shade you want, as long
as you feather it out with a bristle brush just before it sets.
Wait at least 2 days before varnishing, the longer the better, and I guarantee
there will be no stain bleeding off into your brush, and you'll be able to
stand back and admire a job well done.

what Leon said, OR:
Iif you can find it, Bonakemi DriFast stain, which is an oil modified quick dry
stain. There aren't lots of colors, but if you find the color you need, it is
awesome stuff. I used it recently after being warned away from Miniwax stains for
staining my living room floor during a refinishing project. Bonakemi tech support
said that customer complaints of adhesion problems were due to using Miniwax
stains under their floor finishs.

dave

BUB 209 wrote:

I'm pretty much a home improvement jack-of-all-trades, and for years I've
been applying one thin coat of stain, wiping it off right away and going,
that's too light. Crap. But this last time, I had to match a dark cherry
shade with Minwax stain. So I used the following method:
Apply the sealer (on pine)
Apply a coat of stain without wiping it off and allow about 10 minutes,
then feather it lightly to remove streaks before it sets with a brush.
Apply another coat and do the same thing.
And another, as many as it takes to get to the shade you want, as long
as you feather it out with a bristle brush just before it sets.
Wait at least 2 days before varnishing, the longer the better, and I guarantee
there will be no stain bleeding off into your brush, and you'll be able to
stand back and admire a job well done.

Hey Dave,
How does that DriFast stain do when it comes to lap marks and where did you
get it?
Have you ever tried Bartleys? It only comes in about 12 colors so selection
is small but it too dries quickly. You can pretty much handle it in a
couple minutes after wiping off the excess and the same goes for their gel
wiping varnish. After a minute or two dust does not stick to it.

"bay area dave" wrote in message
...

No, I haven't used Bartleys, but if you are using it it's gotta be good!

I have not found a better one, especially in a gel stain. Zar is pretty
good.

Drifast comes in only 11 base colors. They are recoatable in only 2 hours.
Try
that with Minwax!
Nutmeg
Early American
Red Mahogany
Natuaral
Golden Oak
Special Walnut
Jacobean
Ebony
Rosewood
Provincial (My favorite for floors)
White (the only one which requires 24 hrs drying time)

Sounds about like the same colors that Bartleys offers. IIRC recoat with
Bartleys is 4 hours. No real smell with it also.

I don't know how they incorporate a fast drying stain with no lap marks,
but
seeing is believing.

These two stains sound a lot alike. Bartleys leaves no lap marks either
unless your are careless and let a gob dry in place without wiping it off.
BUT..!!!!! With Bartleys if you have a "goof" you simply apply more to the
thick or too dark area and let it soak in a few seconds and then wipe it
off. The "over application" comes off....After the initial aplication, you
follow up with their Gel varnish if you want or anyone elses but using
theirs you have NO sanding or scuffing between coats. Each sucessive layer
of stain or varnish melts into the previous. The hand wiped finish is like
glass.
Not trying to sell you on this over the DriFast as both lound like they
are pretty darn closely matched.

I was warned about the difficulties in using a waterbased
stain. ie. lap marks. I have never used anything but oil based stains
such as
Minwax

For the first time last week I used a water based stain made by General
Finishes. I was pleased with the results. Even on Oak I got very little
raised grain and did not predampen and sand before applying the stain..I was
however looking for a rustic look and feel and did not care if the finish
was rough or not. This was on picture frames that I built for S. Texas
landscape paintings. It was like using paint that covered well and then I
wiped it off.

Where do you get your Bartleys? Do any Borgs carry it? I'm 4 blocks from
HD
and about 40 minutes from a Lowe's.

You are probably not going to find Bartleys at a Borg.. Wood Craft Stocks
it and it is in their catalog. Mostly dedicated woodworking stores sell it.
I can get it at the hardwood lumber suppliers in Houston and you can order
dirrect. A little pricey but it goes a long way. About $15 a quart but 1
quart of stain took care of my whole remodeled kitchen 13 years ago.
Followed with 3 coats and or 2 quarts of the same brand varnish.

Take a look here for the poop on the product.
http://www.bartleycollection.com/finish.htm They sell furniture kits also.

Where are you getting the FastDry?

dave

Leon wrote:

Hey Dave,
How does that DriFast stain do when it comes to lap marks and where did
you
get it?
Have you ever tried Bartleys? It only comes in about 12 colors so
selection
is small but it too dries quickly. You can pretty much handle it in a
couple minutes after wiping off the excess and the same goes for their
gel
wiping varnish. After a minute or two dust does not stick to it.

"bay area dave" wrote in message
...
Leon,

IIRC, the cost is similar to DriFast.(not Fastdry g)
I got the DriFast at the local Bonakemi wholesaler. There are 2 in SJ.
If you
really want to try it, check their web site for wholesalers in your area.

I'm surprised to hear you got no raised grain with the water based stain.
Even
though I've never used it, I always read about how it will raise the
grain. Did
you prep with 150 grit before staining?

Actually because I was not concerned with smoothness I applied the stain
directly to the fresh planed wood. That is probably why the grain did not
raise much. Sanding scratches and tares the wood fibers. Since I actually
cut the finish surface there was a minimum of tears to raise up.... I
guess. I did do a search for the product and there are a couple of places
in Houston that sell it. Thanks.

I had a hunch you were going to tell me you planed the wood. That's what I
thought would keep the grain from raising. I STILL need to get my butt in gear
and order the Veritas Low Angle Block Plane from Lee Valley.

BTW, even though the recoat is 2 hours, I didn't want to temp fate, so I waited
about 5 1/2 - 6 hours to apply the sealer coat on the floor. Not that it
wouldn't have been ok in 2 hours, but I didn't want you to get the idea that I
am endorsing pushing the limits.

dave

Leon wrote:

"bay area dave" wrote in message
...
Leon,

IIRC, the cost is similar to DriFast.(not Fastdry g)
I got the DriFast at the local Bonakemi wholesaler. There are 2 in SJ.
If you
really want to try it, check their web site for wholesalers in your area.

I'm surprised to hear you got no raised grain with the water based stain.
Even
though I've never used it, I always read about how it will raise the
grain. Did
you prep with 150 grit before staining?

Actually because I was not concerned with smoothness I applied the stain
directly to the fresh planed wood. That is probably why the grain did not
raise much. Sanding scratches and tares the wood fibers. Since I actually
cut the finish surface there was a minimum of tears to raise up.... I
guess. I did do a search for the product and there are a couple of places
in Houston that sell it. Thanks.

make that "tempt"; not "temp" g

bay area dave wrote:

BTW, even though the recoat is 2 hours, I didn't want to temp fate, so I waited

"Leon" wrote in message:
Or switch to Bartleys gel stain and get away from Minwax stains.

Blasphemer! :-)

Jums

Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.... LOL

"Jim Mc Namara" wrote in message
om...

"Leon" wrote in message:
Or switch to Bartleys gel stain and get away from Minwax stains.

Blasphemer! :-)

Jums

Being from Texas I understand that anything close is about all that was
taught in most schools there.

Also,
I don't know the exact chemistry of the finish you're discussing but
bear in mind that in some cases delaying the recoat may result in less
adhesion between layers. With a polymerizing coating it is better to
recoat before polymerization has proceeded to completion.

Phil

Leon wrote:
Being from Texas, I understood "temt" as meaning "tempt" :~)

"bay area dave" wrote in message
...

make that "tempt"; not "temp" g

bay area dave wrote:

BTW, even though the recoat is 2 hours, I didn't want to temp fate, so I

waited

My misprounciation pet peeve is when folks say "axe" instead of "ask".
That
always sounds so backwater to me. I did a search on the 'net the other
day
after seeing a gal in a recently popular commercial say "axe". I
thought it was
an ethnic thing, until I read that it is regional. I've only heard
African-Americans pronounce it that way. Guess I haven't noticed any of
us
white folks saying "axe me a question..." I gotta start paying closer
attention.

dave

Leon wrote:

Being from Texas, I understood "temt" as meaning "tempt" :~)

"bay area dave" wrote in message
...
make that "tempt"; not "temp" g

bay area dave wrote:

BTW, even though the recoat is 2 hours, I didn't want to temp fate, so I
waited

In article , bay area dave
wrote:

My misprounciation pet peeve is when folks say "axe" instead of "ask".

"Tempachur" instead of "temperature"...

"Filum" instead of "film"...

djb

--
"I don't always know what I'm talking about, but I know I'm right." -- Muhammad
Ali

On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 01:54:01 +0000, bay area dave wrote:
Guess I haven't noticed any of us
white folks saying "axe me a question..." I gotta start paying closer
attention.

It's becoming a "London thing" in the UK. Young men in London all seem to
be saying it that way regardless of colour or race.

Personally I hate it too.....

Cheers,

Andy

After living in Calif 42 years I went to Boston for 4 months. First
experience was large market filled with mothers and daughters talking
in their 'accent'. Saw a woman with "Hahvahd" sweatshirt.

On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 09:50:57 GMT, Greg Millen
wrote:

Oh, and "pitcha" (picture), "tomada" (tomato), "cassel" (castle), "lill"
(little) . . .

bay area dave wrote:

My misprounciation pet peeve is when folks say "axe" instead of "ask".
[snip]
Nucular for nuclear.

Dave Balderstone wrote:

In article , bay area dave
wrote:

My misprounciation pet peeve is when folks say "axe" instead of "ask".

"Tempachur" instead of "temperature"...

"Filum" instead of "film"...

djb

"I could care less" (wrong) instead of
"I couldn't care less (right) sets my teeth on edge.

West side Clevelanders (Ohio) tend to turn a final d into
a t. e.g. Clevelant, ant, etc. Bothers me when I notice it,
but since my wife of over 20 years is from the Cleveland
west side, tend not to hear it anymore.

ARM

g frickin' spell checker!!!

and...

the KKK is of course, the KU Klux Klan. Many talking heads say "KLU Klux
Klan". and those SOB's are all pulling in 6 and 7 figure salaries. There's
no justice in the world...g

dave

Greg Millen wrote:

On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 01:54:01 GMT, bay area dave wrote:

My misprounciation pet peeve is when folks say "axe" instead of "ask".

^^^^^^^^^^^^

My spelling pet peeve is when people write "misprounciation" and not
"mispronunciation" :-)

Oh, and "pitcha" (picture), "tomada" (tomato), "cassel" (castle), "lill"
(little) . . .

On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 11:32:18 +0100, "Andy Jeffries"
wrote:

On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 01:54:01 +0000, bay area dave wrote:
Guess I haven't noticed any of us
white folks saying "axe me a question..." I gotta start paying closer
attention.

It's becoming a "London thing" in the UK. Young men in London all seem to
be saying it that way regardless of colour or race.

Personally I hate it too.....

I get a little waspish and ask them what it means! ;O)

Take Care,
Gnube
{too thick for linux}

I lived in England as a child and still remember the bizarre pronunciation:
"al YOU MIN ee um"

dave

Gnube wrote:

On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 14:58:06 GMT, jo4hn wrote:

bay area dave wrote:

My misprounciation pet peeve is when folks say "axe" instead of "ask".
[snip]
Nucular for nuclear.

Oh please let's not go there - it hurts just to read it! ;O)

And as for what passes for aluminium in some places sigh

Take Care,
Gnube
{too thick for linux}

On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 01:22:39 GMT, Bay Area Dave
wrote:

I lived in England as a child and still remember the bizarre pronunciation:
"al YOU MIN ee um"

dave

Well, I know it's a bizarre thing, but it follows the spelling you
see. So, is it easier living in place where spelling appears to be a
matter of personal choice? I'd imagine it leaves lots of free time for
doing other things over a whole lifetime! ;O)

Take Care,
Gnube
{too thick for linux}