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#1
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Cheap Table saw question
I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in
the $100 range and under. Something servicable to start with. I was looking at Lowes Task Force BT2500W and ShopMaster SM200L. I will be doing mostly miter cuts and plan on buildng a miter sled but I want the versatility of a table saw. Projects will be simple homeowner stuff (porch steps and shelving) and some recreational items (hurlers like trebuchets and catapults). -wylie |
#2
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Cheap Table saw question
wrote in message oups.com... I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. Something servicable to start with. I was looking at Lowes Task Force BT2500W and ShopMaster SM200L. I will be doing mostly miter cuts and plan on buildng a miter sled but I want the versatility of a table saw. Projects will be simple homeowner stuff (porch steps and shelving) and some recreational items (hurlers like trebuchets and catapults). -wylie To be honest with you here, you cannot buy a good jig saw or circle saw for that kind of money much less a tool that normally costs 5 to 10 times more unless you find a good deal on a used contractors TS. |
#3
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Cheap Table saw question
"Leon" wrote in message m... wrote in message oups.com... I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. Something servicable to start with. I was looking at Lowes Task Force BT2500W and ShopMaster SM200L. I will be doing mostly miter cuts and plan on buildng a miter sled but I want the versatility of a table saw. Projects will be simple homeowner stuff (porch steps and shelving) and some recreational items (hurlers like trebuchets and catapults). -wylie To be honest with you here, you cannot buy a good jig saw or circle saw for that kind of money much less a tool that normally costs 5 to 10 times more unless you find a good deal on a used contractors TS. While I agree with you on the tablesaw, you can certainly get good circular and jig saws for $100.... |
#4
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Cheap Table saw question
You can do a lot with a good hand-held circular saw, a good blade, and a
straight-edge. For a "good" one (Makita, Milwakee, Dewalt, etc) you might still be over $100, but I can't imagine anything close to a decent table saw for the same price. Clint wrote in message oups.com... I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. Something servicable to start with. I was looking at Lowes Task Force BT2500W and ShopMaster SM200L. I will be doing mostly miter cuts and plan on buildng a miter sled but I want the versatility of a table saw. Projects will be simple homeowner stuff (porch steps and shelving) and some recreational items (hurlers like trebuchets and catapults). -wylie |
#6
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Cheap Table saw question
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#7
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Cheap Table saw question
"wylie asked"
I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. "Leon" To be honest with you here, you cannot buy a good jig saw or circle saw for that kind of money much less a tool that normally costs 5 to 10 times more unless you find a good deal on a used contractors TS. "Locutus" While I agree with you on the tablesaw, you can certainly get good circular and jig saws for $100.... If you are talking about new then Leon's dead right. - The only way to get a new on for less is to buy it from the guys selling from the back of his van. The OP can get some decent stuff used if he is patient and willing to watch local yard sales, craiglists or auctions. If he gets suckered into buying some piece of junk from Harbor Fright, he'll soon regret it. Dave |
#8
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Cheap Table saw question
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#9
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Cheap Table saw question
In article .com, wrote:
I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. Something servicable to start with. I was looking at Lowes Task Force BT2500W and ShopMaster SM200L. I will be doing mostly miter cuts... Cutting corners is what you'll be doing, IMO :-( -- |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| | Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". | | Gary Player. | | http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
#10
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Cheap Table saw question
Boy did I chuckle. Porch steps and shelving. Ok. Trebuchets and
catapults got me going. On 26 Sep 2006 12:19:42 -0700, wrote: I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. Something servicable to start with. I was looking at Lowes Task Force BT2500W and ShopMaster SM200L. I will be doing mostly miter cuts and plan on buildng a miter sled but I want the versatility of a table saw. Projects will be simple homeowner stuff (porch steps and shelving) and some recreational items (hurlers like trebuchets and catapults). -wylie |
#11
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Cheap Table saw question
There are always people wanting to upgrade their saws. Why not post a table saw wanted thread? You don't want a new saw that sells for $100. |
#12
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Cheap Table saw question
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#13
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Cheap Table saw question
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#14
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Cheap Table saw question
Also check out the craigslist for your local area, and look for local
"forsale" newsgroups. Clint "mojodc3" wrote in message oups.com... wrote: I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. Something servicable to start with. I was looking at Lowes Task Force BT2500W and ShopMaster SM200L. I will be doing mostly miter cuts and plan on buildng a miter sled but I want the versatility of a table saw. Projects will be simple homeowner stuff (porch steps and shelving) and some recreational items (hurlers like trebuchets and catapults). -wylie I know in Virginia we have a paper called the Trading Post. Its like a huge garage sale w/out going to the garage sale. Also find a local woodworking guild, they could point you to a good used saw. Please stay away from the $100 saw, take lessons learned from others and myself. Stay away ! |
#16
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Cheap Table saw question
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 00:37:24 GMT, Jim Behning
wrote: Boy did I chuckle. Porch steps and shelving. Ok. Trebuchets and catapults got me going. Be nice, Jim... lol https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/trebs.htm Some of us just like to hurl once in a while... without drinking.. *g* Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
#17
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Cheap Table saw question
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#18
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Cheap Table saw question
mac davis wrote:
Some of us just like to hurl once in a while... without drinking.. *g* And you thought you'd have a problem getting your logs over the border... |
#19
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Cheap Table saw question
warbler wrote:
The cheap end of the table saw market is also the most unsafe. When I first became interested in woodworking, I bought a contractors saw at Home Depot for $159. It was unstable, the fence was horrendous, kickback was inevitable, it stalled whenver I needed to rip some wood, etc. Good lord. What saw was that? I've got a benchtop TS that came in at about that price, and after proper setup, it has none of those problems. The blade and fence were out of whack from the factory, but once those were adjusted, it has never given me a problem. The only safety issues I have a The splitter/guard is a pain, prompting me to seldom use it; and the throat plate is crap, which can cause problems on very thin rips. I really can't agree with all these posts that say a $100 Shopmaster saw is useless. Granted, it is only what it is, but it's far from useless. And I can't agree that a circ saw is any substitute for even a cheap benchtop TS. For cutting big panels, yes, OK. For repeatable, accurate cuts of small to medium-sized parts, no way, not even close. And there are $200-ish saws that get you into the neighborhood of contractor saw capability for 30%-40% of the price. They are nowhere near as durable or pleasant to use as the real thing, but for us weekend warriors, there is a *big* difference between $180 and $580, and if you happen to have the $180 in your pocket, the benchtop saw will get you cutting today. Then one day you can spring for a real saw. There are people out there making houses full of cabinets and furniture with these little saws. Some of them really aren't bad. |
#20
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Cheap Table saw question
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:47:27 GMT, B A R R Y wrote:
mac davis wrote: Some of us just like to hurl once in a while... without drinking.. *g* And you thought you'd have a problem getting your logs over the border... hmm... good idea, Barry... too bad the shop is packed... damn! Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
#21
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Cheap Table saw question
Clint wrote:
Also check out the craigslist for your local area, and look for local "forsale" newsgroups. I'll second that suggestion for Craigslist. Seems like, at least in my area, there's always someone getting rid of some type of Craftsman table saw or radial arm saw, and often in the $50-$150 price range. I've never owned a Craftsman saw, so I don't about the quality of them, but presumably a used one that hasn't been abused would be a decent tool -- If you want to reply via email, change the obvious words to numbers and remove ".invalid". |
#22
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Cheap Table saw question
"Locutus" wrote in message ... "Leon" wrote in message m... wrote in message oups.com... I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. Something servicable to start with. I was looking at Lowes Task Force BT2500W and ShopMaster SM200L. I will be doing mostly miter cuts and plan on buildng a miter sled but I want the versatility of a table saw. Projects will be simple homeowner stuff (porch steps and shelving) and some recreational items (hurlers like trebuchets and catapults). -wylie To be honest with you here, you cannot buy a good jig saw or circle saw for that kind of money much less a tool that normally costs 5 to 10 times more unless you find a good deal on a used contractors TS. While I agree with you on the tablesaw, you can certainly get good circular and jig saws for $100.... You might be able to get a usable circular saw, but not a decent jigsaw--not one that will give the nearly planer-smooth cuts that a Bosch can deliver. At least not new, you might be able to find a used Bosch for under $100. I spent better than 200 bucks for my first Bosch 20 years ago and the first time a cut a board with it I realized that I had spent wisely. There is no other portable power tool in which the difference between "cheap" and "good" is so drastic as jigsaws. |
#23
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Cheap Table saw question
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#24
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Cheap Table saw question
On Tue, 26 Sep 2006 12:19:42 -0700, wylie72 wrote:
I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. Something servicable to start with. I was looking at Lowes Task Force BT2500W and ShopMaster SM200L. I will be doing mostly miter cuts and plan on buildng a miter sled but I want the versatility of a table saw. Projects will be simple homeowner stuff (porch steps and shelving) and some recreational items (hurlers like trebuchets and catapults). -wylie Wylie -- Keep yer eyes peeled for a Craftsman 10" table saw at the garage & basement sales around you. They can be had for $100-150 or so. They have cast iron tops with steel extensions. Try to wiggle the blade arbor ... you shouldn't be able to. If you can, leave you money in your pocket and keep walking. The bearings / arbor are shot. They can be fixed, but unless the owner gave you the saw free and hauled it over to your house for gas money, the repair would not make financial sense. Plan on spending a 'fun & educational' day adjusting the trunnion so that the blade is parrallel to the miter slots and part of another hour getting the fence to match the same side of the same miter slot. Hard to be too fussy here ... You will get all kinds of kick-back from the list about buying this saw .... but not from the saw if you tune it properly as suggested above and then use it following standard safe technique. AFTER you get it properly adjusted (the most likely reason the former owner is getting rid of it!) plan to spend cash money on a couple of good blades ... the Dewalt 40 tooth runs about $40 and will give you a -very- nice cut. Spend more, get more ... but I'd have to see some mighty compelling reason ON PAPER AND ON WOOD before I busted loose with as much as $60 for a TS blade. I have one of the Rigid 10" bench saws and it works okay mounted in a wheelbarrow for outdoors stuff, but the table is too small, in my opinion, for safety if doing anything beyond short cross-cutting. It will handle a 6" wide piece ... but I am not comfortable feeding it one. On the Rigid the blade ... the part that rips flesh from your fingers and your hands from your arms ... is pretty much the only part that is normal sized. Everything else reminds me of the sort of saw used for making houses -- for Barbie dolls. The above are only my subjective opinions. I'ved never owned a better saw than the Craftsman so I will admit to not knowing what I am missing. But I can do good work with my Craftsman and neither my rosewood nor my pine can read the label. It's probably not a good saw for high production or long rips in thick pieces of ironwood ... but you aren't doing production in any sort of wood. It's too loud to leave running all day ... so (duh!) turn it off when you aren't actually using it. Adding a 'la-de-da' fence might be a worthwhile upgrade at some point intermediate between the time you throw the Craftsman over a bridge and the day you buy a saw with a landing deck for a table and 3 miles of wiring to power a whole bank of sparkely lights. ;-) By the time you add the fancy-dancy fence, you'll know why you need it and you'll have plenty of both time and experience to help you buy that landing deck, if you EVER feel the need to. It is my contention that paying attention to the stock Craftsman fence will make you a more skilled sawyer than having a fence that does not even ask you to pay attention to your business. Bill |
#25
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Cheap Table saw question
wrote in message oups.com... I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. Keep an eye on estate sales, every now and then a 10" craftsman will show up in that price range. Be sure the fence, blade guard and miter gauge are still with the saw. Hold out for a belt drive. RM~ PS, An estate sale is a sale when somebody else sells somebody else's stuff and they don't have a clue as to what it's worth. I recently paid $20 for a complete Dayton 6X48 belt/disc sander with stand and $30 for a new (still in box) 16" variable speed Delta scroll saw at an estate sale. |
#26
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Cheap Table saw question
Rob Mills wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. Keep an eye on estate sales, every now and then a 10" craftsman will show up in that price range. Be sure the fence, blade guard and miter gauge are still with the saw. Hold out for a belt drive. RM~ PS, An estate sale is a sale when somebody else sells somebody else's stuff and they don't have a clue as to what it's worth. I recently paid $20 for a complete Dayton 6X48 belt/disc sander with stand and $30 for a new (still in box) 16" variable speed Delta scroll saw at an estate sale. Yesterday I attended a guy's stuff auction (vehicles and tools) in upstate New Hampshire. I scored a router and two pad sanders for $40 total. My brother scored a milling machine for $25. Getting that into the pickup was interesting. Couple of 10" Craftsman table saws went for well under $100. A nice 10" Royobi table saw went for $25-$50. Lots of Snap-On and Greelee stuff. Lots of pure junk too. Four nice fiberglass boats in the 19 to 23 foot range went for $1200 each. An 01 Deville didn't sell cause no one raised the reserve price of $4000. You might look around for an auction place in your area. David Starr |
#27
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Cheap Table saw question
"David Starr" wrote in message ... Yesterday I attended a guy's stuff auction (vehicles and tools) in upstate New Hampshire. I scored a router and two pad sanders for $40 total. My brother scored a milling machine for $25. Now that's my kind of shopping. Did they give green stamps? RM~ |
#28
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Cheap Table saw question
boorite wrote: wrote: I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. Something servicable to start with. I was looking at Lowes Task Force BT2500W and ShopMaster SM200L. I will be doing mostly miter cuts and plan on buildng a miter sled but I want the versatility of a table saw. Projects will be simple homeowner stuff (porch steps and shelving) and some recreational items (hurlers like trebuchets and catapults). The Blowes benchtop saw has those annoying tabs in the miter slot. You do not want those under any circumstances. You say you want to build a miter sled. The Shopmaster is serviceable, but the rip capacity sucks big time. Just take one step up from the very bottom of the benchtop saw market, and you'll be OK. For $150-$170, you can get a saw with a more powerful motor, bigger, flatter table, and more rip capacity. There's a Ryobi saw in this range with a sliding miter table and 20" rip capacity. I have the Delta TS220LS and am pleased with it, except the throat insert blows goats. Again, the very bottom of the line Shopmaster does work, but it's severely limiting compared to what you can get at the next price point up. Thanks for the help. I ended up with a $180 table saw from Lowes. Once I got there in person I just couldn't fathom buying the $100 saws - way too flimsy. While what I got isn't much better I really was just looking for some straight cuts and to spare my arm from the handsaw. Really fine accuracy and ripping big lumber is way beyond my needs. After a fair bit of research I was able to learn how to get the blade cutting square. And my second attempt at a miter sled worked well. My son and I banged out a 14" mangonel Sunday just for fun (i.e. hurling Barbie dolls) and the base of a 4' arm trebuchet is started. -wylie |
#29
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Cheap Table saw question
wrote: boorite wrote: wrote: I'm a novice to woodworking looking for a passable starter table saw in the $100 range and under. Something servicable to start with. I was looking at Lowes Task Force BT2500W and ShopMaster SM200L. I will be doing mostly miter cuts and plan on buildng a miter sled but I want the versatility of a table saw. Projects will be simple homeowner stuff (porch steps and shelving) and some recreational items (hurlers like trebuchets and catapults). The Blowes benchtop saw has those annoying tabs in the miter slot. You do not want those under any circumstances. You say you want to build a miter sled. The Shopmaster is serviceable, but the rip capacity sucks big time. Just take one step up from the very bottom of the benchtop saw market, and you'll be OK. For $150-$170, you can get a saw with a more powerful motor, bigger, flatter table, and more rip capacity. There's a Ryobi saw in this range with a sliding miter table and 20" rip capacity. I have the Delta TS220LS and am pleased with it, except the throat insert blows goats. Again, the very bottom of the line Shopmaster does work, but it's severely limiting compared to what you can get at the next price point up. Thanks for the help. I ended up with a $180 table saw from Lowes. Once I got there in person I just couldn't fathom buying the $100 saws - way too flimsy. While what I got isn't much better I really was just looking for some straight cuts and to spare my arm from the handsaw. Really fine accuracy and ripping big lumber is way beyond my needs. After a fair bit of research I was able to learn how to get the blade cutting square. And my second attempt at a miter sled worked well. My son and I banged out a 14" mangonel Sunday just for fun (i.e. hurling Barbie dolls) and the base of a 4' arm trebuchet is started. -wylie After thinking about this a bit more, I wanted to explain why I didn't go with the used option that seemed to be the consensus. Basically, I know very little about what I'm getting into here right now. I would not know the first thing to look for in a used table saw - any warning signs of failure pending or of over use. By buying new I at least have a return policy if I get a lemon. Let me do a computer analogy here if I may. I work with computers by trade, and am experienced enough that I've been building my own from used parts for several years now. But when someone asks me what to buy, I tell them they should spend $300 or $2000. $300 will take care of a casual user, internet, email, Office, etc without paying for capacity they will never use. $2000 will satisfy a power user - 3D online games, graphical design, etc. I can take a cursory look at a used computer and know what it is worth and if it has any problems, but it took a long time to get to that point. In respects to woodworking, I'm just starting to feel my way around and don't expect to need that much capacity. With several years experience under my belt and a much bigger garage I'll be ready for $800-$1500 saw with a $80 blade and will know what to look for. In the meantime a P.O.S. model 1 will suit my needs. That being said, if anyone would care to share some insight in what to look for in used woodworking gear... -wylie |
#31
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Cheap Table saw question
Doug Miller wrote:
Specific things to look for: Good list Doug. I'd add one thing. Check the distance from the blade to the miter slots front and back of the blade. First with the blade at 90 degrees, then at 45. If the difference is greater than .01", go look elsewhere. Something is twisted. The problem can sometimes be fixed, but it's nothing a beginner should want to tackle. -- It's turtles, all the way down |
#32
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Cheap Table saw question
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#33
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Cheap Table saw question
Doug Miller wrote: In article , wrote: Doug Miller wrote: Specific things to look for: Good list Doug. I'd add one thing. Check the distance from the blade to the miter slots front and back of the blade. First with the blade at 90 degrees, then at 45. If the difference is greater than .01", go look elsewhere. Something is twisted. To clarify: he's referring to the difference between the 90-deg and 45-deg tilt measurements, not the difference between fore and aft measurements at any particular tilt setting. A consistent difference between fore and aft measurements is still a problem, but it's usually very easy to fix. The problem can sometimes be fixed, but it's nothing a beginner should want to tackle. Ya know, Larry, when I was putting together my list, I had the nagging feeling in the back of my mind that I was overlooking something important, that was easy to check. That was it. Thanks. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. Thanks all for the information. One additional question: What are you using to measure down to .01" ? I'm guessing a measuring tape is not that accurate? -wylie |
#34
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Cheap Table saw question
In article . com, "Wylie" wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: To clarify: he's referring to the difference between the 90-deg and 45-deg tilt measurements, not the difference between fore and aft measurements at any particular tilt setting. A consistent difference between fore and aft measurements is still a problem, but it's usually very easy to fix. Let me clarify further, since I didn't state that quite the way I meant to. 1. Measure the distance from the miter slot to the blade at the front and back of the blade, with the blade at 90 degrees. If they're not the same, that's only a minor problem in most cases. Don't worry about it. Yet. 2. Tilt the blade to 45 degrees and repeat the measurements. These will not be the same as the measurements taken in Step 1; this is expected. If they differ from each other, that's still only a minor problem in most cases. But if the difference in Step 2 is different from the difference in Step 1 by more than 0.010", that's a much larger problem, and, as Larry said, nothing a beginner should want to tackle. Thanks all for the information. One additional question: What are you using to measure down to .01" ? I'm guessing a measuring tape is not that accurate? Indeed it's not. The best way to take measurements like that is with a dial indicator mounted to the miter gauge, but if you don't have a dial indicator, here's the poor man's method: Position the miter gauge adjacent to the front of the blade. Press the bar of the miter gauge firmly against the side of the miter slot nearer the blade (to eliminate looseness in the fit of the bar in the slot from affecting the accuracy of the measurements). Clamp a sharpened pencil to the miter gauge so that it's almost, but not quite, touching the blade. Measure the distance between the pencil point and the blade with automotive feeler gauges. Move the miter gauge to the rear of the blade, taking care to press the bar against the side of the slot again, as described above, and repeat the measurement. Compare the fore and aft measurements, and you're done. You don't care what the measurements actually are. The important part is the difference between them, and whether that difference *changes* when the blade is tilted from 90 degrees to 45 degrees. You can get a good set of flat feeler gauges at Sears for five bucks: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00999008000 Any auto parts store will have them, too, for about the same price. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#35
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Cheap Table saw question
Doug Miller wrote: In article . com, "Wylie" wrote: Doug Miller wrote: To clarify: he's referring to the difference between the 90-deg and 45-deg tilt measurements, not the difference between fore and aft measurements at any particular tilt setting. A consistent difference between fore and aft measurements is still a problem, but it's usually very easy to fix. Let me clarify further, since I didn't state that quite the way I meant to. 1. Measure the distance from the miter slot to the blade at the front and back of the blade, with the blade at 90 degrees. If they're not the same, that's only a minor problem in most cases. Don't worry about it. Yet. 2. Tilt the blade to 45 degrees and repeat the measurements. These will not be the same as the measurements taken in Step 1; this is expected. If they differ from each other, that's still only a minor problem in most cases. But if the difference in Step 2 is different from the difference in Step 1 by more than 0.010", that's a much larger problem, and, as Larry said, nothing a beginner should want to tackle. Thanks all for the information. One additional question: What are you using to measure down to .01" ? I'm guessing a measuring tape is not that accurate? Indeed it's not. The best way to take measurements like that is with a dial indicator mounted to the miter gauge, but if you don't have a dial indicator, here's the poor man's method: Position the miter gauge adjacent to the front of the blade. Press the bar of the miter gauge firmly against the side of the miter slot nearer the blade (to eliminate looseness in the fit of the bar in the slot from affecting the accuracy of the measurements). Clamp a sharpened pencil to the miter gauge so that it's almost, but not quite, touching the blade. Measure the distance between the pencil point and the blade with automotive feeler gauges. Move the miter gauge to the rear of the blade, taking care to press the bar against the side of the slot again, as described above, and repeat the measurement. Compare the fore and aft measurements, and you're done. You don't care what the measurements actually are. The important part is the difference between them, and whether that difference *changes* when the blade is tilted from 90 degrees to 45 degrees. You can get a good set of flat feeler gauges at Sears for five bucks: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00999008000 Any auto parts store will have them, too, for about the same price. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. Sweet. Thanks again for taking the time with me. -wylie |
#36
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Cheap Table saw question
Let me do a computer analogy here if I may. I work with computers by
trade, and am experienced enough that I've been building my own from used parts for several years now. But when someone asks me what to buy, I tell them they should spend $300 or $2000. $300 will take care of a casual user, internet, email, Office, etc without paying for capacity they will never use. $2000 will satisfy a power user - 3D online games, graphical design, etc. I guess I'm a step or two up from a power user then. ;-) I'm a software developer and my year old Dell "workstation" bogs down trying to run 2 copies of Visual Studio and virtual machines. (Yes, the VMs are on a separate disk.) The higher end of these ought to run pretty good. ;-) http://www.digitaltigers.com/stratosphere-elite.php I'd trade my current 7-monitor setup, a mixture of CRTs & LCDs, for one of these. http://www.digitaltigers.com/zenview...-ultrahd.shtml -- Mark |
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Cheap Table saw question
Mark Jerde wrote: Let me do a computer analogy here if I may. I work with computers by trade, and am experienced enough that I've been building my own from used parts for several years now. But when someone asks me what to buy, I tell them they should spend $300 or $2000. $300 will take care of a casual user, internet, email, Office, etc without paying for capacity they will never use. $2000 will satisfy a power user - 3D online games, graphical design, etc. I guess I'm a step or two up from a power user then. ;-) I'm a software developer and my year old Dell "workstation" bogs down trying to run 2 copies of Visual Studio and virtual machines. (Yes, the VMs are on a separate disk.) The higher end of these ought to run pretty good. ;-) http://www.digitaltigers.com/stratosphere-elite.php I'd trade my current 7-monitor setup, a mixture of CRTs & LCDs, for one of these. http://www.digitaltigers.com/zenview...-ultrahd.shtml -- Mark I think I just added some things to my Christmas list. Though personally I use one big monitor hooked up by KVM to the three computers at my home workstation. -wylie |
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