Hi,

i got a call from my dad who was at an auction. he knew I wanted a
jointer. He said one was there. I asked if it was in good shape. He
said yea. To make a long story short, he got it for 50 bucks. He
brought it home and It looks very old. It is a craftsman model number
103.23320. It is missing a belt. It is on top of a home made stand with
wheels. On the second shelf of the stand is a sears and robuck motor
with a pully with several different sized pulleys on one pulley. The
jointer has a fence. It has 3 knifes that look like they are not gouged
but probably need sharpened.

I typed the model number on the sears website and it said parts are no
longer available.

I cleaned up the thing. (It had a lot of wasp nests in it!). Cleaned
the table with paint thinker and then sprayed it and all the moving
parts with silicone.

The infeed side of the table on one end seems to be about 1/16 or more
higher than the parallel side. (6 inches away) Is there an adjustment
for this?

The motor when I plugged it in works or at least spins without a belt.

Is this think going to be usable for edge jointing and face planing
small boards or is it going to be more trouble than it is worth?

Any informaion as always is appreciated!

You may want to checkout buying new blades. Might be cheaper....they where
for me.
www.woodworker.com
"stryped" wrote in message
ps.com...
Hi,

i got a call from my dad who was at an auction. he knew I wanted a
jointer. He said one was there. I asked if it was in good shape. He
said yea. To make a long story short, he got it for 50 bucks. He
brought it home and It looks very old. It is a craftsman model number
103.23320. It is missing a belt. It is on top of a home made stand with
wheels. On the second shelf of the stand is a sears and robuck motor
with a pully with several different sized pulleys on one pulley. The
jointer has a fence. It has 3 knifes that look like they are not gouged
but probably need sharpened.

I typed the model number on the sears website and it said parts are no
longer available.

I cleaned up the thing. (It had a lot of wasp nests in it!). Cleaned
the table with paint thinker and then sprayed it and all the moving
parts with silicone.

The infeed side of the table on one end seems to be about 1/16 or more
higher than the parallel side. (6 inches away) Is there an adjustment
for this?

The motor when I plugged it in works or at least spins without a belt.

Is this think going to be usable for edge jointing and face planing
small boards or is it going to be more trouble than it is worth?

Any informaion as always is appreciated!

Any informaion as always is appreciated!

1. Thanks for allowing your post to be archived! This will allow
future users to learn from your questions and everyone else's
responses. They could do this by going to
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/ and entering their
questions in the "Search This Group" box.

2. Yes your jointer could be useful, but it might be quite a bit of
work. Please do lots of google searches, look in your books, and buy
more books on how to restore used power tools in general and jointers
specifically.

3. Get the silicone off the tables before you use it with good project
wood - if it gets into your wood, it will interfere with finishing.

4. Get a Powertwist Link Belt - available from Rockler, Lee Valley,
Grizzly, etc. Sold by the foot. Figure out whether the belt grooves
on your pulleys are 3/8" or 1/2" wide, and wrap a flexible tape measure
around the motor and drive pulleys to see how many feet you need. The
belt will only go on one of the motor pulleys - the different sizes are
to change the speed, like gears on a bike.

5. Do as much research as you can, and if you're not sure about
something, try it out to see if it works.

Congrats on your new tool,
Andy

On 18 Sep 2006 05:47:40 -0700, stryped wrote:

I cleaned up the thing. (It had a lot of wasp nests in it!). Cleaned the
table with paint thinker and then sprayed it and all the moving parts with
silicone.

Remove the silicone from the tables. It could transfer to the wood, where it
can interfere with finishes.

Use silicone-free paste wax (i.e., Johnson's), or a product sold for the
purpose, on woodworking machine tables.

--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net

stryped wrote:

The motor when I plugged it in works or at least spins without a belt.

Is this think going to be usable for edge jointing and face planing
small boards or is it going to be more trouble than it is worth?

Any informaion as always is appreciated!

Sounds a lot like the old craftsman 4-inch jointer I used to have,
right down to the homemade stand. I paid 60 bucks for it but it was
working at the time. :-)

Yeah, it's good for edge jointing of short boards, and face jointing
things like two by fours two feet long. Longer boards are really tricky
and I never got the hang of it. Always ended up taking a Stanley number
seven to 'em. (Which worked just fine for edges and was okay for faces
when combined with a DEEwalt planer.)

I spent a sunday afternoon taking it all apart and getting the tables
coplanar and cleaning it up. Put a linkbelt on it rather than try to
hunt down a belt the right size. Old woodworking tools website was a
lot of help.

I got frustrated with it's itsy bitsy size and I expect you will too,
but you'll learn a lot about jointers messing with it, and I thought
that was a good trade.

Had it for two years before I bought an eight-inch Griz and sold it for
fifty bucks.

Any idea on which pulley to use? The largest obn the bottom is 4 7/8
inch wide. The one on the jointer itself says 2 1/2 inches. I just
found a mnaual and am printing it. It looks like this is a 6 1/8
jointer.

Andy wrote:
Any informaion as always is appreciated!

1. Thanks for allowing your post to be archived! This will allow
future users to learn from your questions and everyone else's
responses. They could do this by going to
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/ and entering their
questions in the "Search This Group" box.

2. Yes your jointer could be useful, but it might be quite a bit of
work. Please do lots of google searches, look in your books, and buy
more books on how to restore used power tools in general and jointers
specifically.

3. Get the silicone off the tables before you use it with good project
wood - if it gets into your wood, it will interfere with finishing.

4. Get a Powertwist Link Belt - available from Rockler, Lee Valley,
Grizzly, etc. Sold by the foot. Figure out whether the belt grooves
on your pulleys are 3/8" or 1/2" wide, and wrap a flexible tape measure
around the motor and drive pulleys to see how many feet you need. The
belt will only go on one of the motor pulleys - the different sizes are
to change the speed, like gears on a bike.

5. Do as much research as you can, and if you're not sure about
something, try it out to see if it works.

Congrats on your new tool,
Andy

Do you remember how you adjusted it to get coplaner? Were you able to
do glue ups with it without other work to the board?

I am wondering if I could use automotive rubbing compound and a buffer
to clean up the table. (Or will this make the table not flat anymore?)
wrote:
stryped wrote:

The motor when I plugged it in works or at least spins without a belt.

Is this think going to be usable for edge jointing and face planing
small boards or is it going to be more trouble than it is worth?

Any informaion as always is appreciated!

Sounds a lot like the old craftsman 4-inch jointer I used to have,
right down to the homemade stand. I paid 60 bucks for it but it was
working at the time. :-)

Yeah, it's good for edge jointing of short boards, and face jointing
things like two by fours two feet long. Longer boards are really tricky
and I never got the hang of it. Always ended up taking a Stanley number
seven to 'em. (Which worked just fine for edges and was okay for faces
when combined with a DEEwalt planer.)

I spent a sunday afternoon taking it all apart and getting the tables
coplanar and cleaning it up. Put a linkbelt on it rather than try to
hunt down a belt the right size. Old woodworking tools website was a
lot of help.

I got frustrated with it's itsy bitsy size and I expect you will too,
but you'll learn a lot about jointers messing with it, and I thought
that was a good trade.

Had it for two years before I bought an eight-inch Griz and sold it for
fifty bucks.

In article om, "stryped" wrote:


I am wondering if I could use automotive rubbing compound

NO. Don't use any automotive polishes, rubbing compounds, etc. on woodworking
equipment unless you are *certain* that they do not contain silicone (most
do). You don't want silicone rubbing off of the equipment onto the wood,
because it will interfere with many finishes. (Google this group for more
info on that.)

and a buffer
to clean up the table. (Or will this make the table not flat anymore?)

It easily could. Light rust can be cleaned up by hand with steel wool, using
paint thinner or light machine oil as a lubricant. If the tables are heavily
rusted or pitted, it might be best to remove them and take them to a machine
shop that has a surface grinder to be resurfaced.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article om, "stryped" wrote:


I cleaned up the thing. (It had a lot of wasp nests in it!). Cleaned
the table with paint thinker and then sprayed it and all the moving
parts with silicone.

Oops. That wasn't a good idea. Best to get the silicone off. About the only
thing that really has much of a chance of doing that is a dry-cleaning solvent
such as trichloroethane or something similar. Look for the brand name
Carbo-Chlor at Ace or Tru-Value Hardware -- possibly at Home Depot, Lowes, or
Menards, too.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

stryped wrote:
Do you remember how you adjusted it to get coplaner?

Not in detail, only that I must have taken that outfeed table on and
off about a dozen times and I used a four-foot level. There's an
article on adjusting old jointer tables on the OWWT website and that's
what I used for a guide. It's been a few years now since I did that and
I'm at the point where my brain makes room for new stuff by dumping
other stuff.

Were you able to
do glue ups with it without other work to the board?

For short boards - about two feet or so - yeah. Made pretty good edges.
Longer boards tended to exagerate the original problem; if there was a
little bit of cup in the edge, there was more cup in it after it ran
through. You can minimize that, and I've heard some guys know how to
make a short bed jointer joint a long board, but I needed a jointer
plane to get rid of it.

I am wondering if I could use automotive rubbing compound and a buffer
to clean up the table. (Or will this make the table not flat anymore?)

Take a few hours wandering around the old woodworking tools website.
They've got tons of information on using sandpaper etc to clean rust
off old tables, how good is good enough, and answers to other questions
you haven't thought of yet. Much more info that you'll get here because
they've been cataloging, categorizing it, and storing it for so long.

Did I ruin the table by using silicone? I was going to use wd40 but did
not have any. Or can I remove the silicone with paint thinner?

Actually, they have a surface grinder at work. WIll this get the table
true if it is not already? Will I have to take the whole thing apart to
get the tables to a surface grinder?
Doug Miller wrote:
In article om, "stryped" wrote:


I cleaned up the thing. (It had a lot of wasp nests in it!). Cleaned
the table with paint thinker and then sprayed it and all the moving
parts with silicone.

Oops. That wasn't a good idea. Best to get the silicone off. About the only
thing that really has much of a chance of doing that is a dry-cleaning solvent
such as trichloroethane or something similar. Look for the brand name
Carbo-Chlor at Ace or Tru-Value Hardware -- possibly at Home Depot, Lowes, or
Menards, too.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

What did you mean you needed a "jointer plane to get rid of it"?

Sorry, just confused.
wrote:
stryped wrote:
Do you remember how you adjusted it to get coplaner?

Not in detail, only that I must have taken that outfeed table on and
off about a dozen times and I used a four-foot level. There's an
article on adjusting old jointer tables on the OWWT website and that's
what I used for a guide. It's been a few years now since I did that and
I'm at the point where my brain makes room for new stuff by dumping
other stuff.

Were you able to
do glue ups with it without other work to the board?

For short boards - about two feet or so - yeah. Made pretty good edges.
Longer boards tended to exagerate the original problem; if there was a
little bit of cup in the edge, there was more cup in it after it ran
through. You can minimize that, and I've heard some guys know how to
make a short bed jointer joint a long board, but I needed a jointer
plane to get rid of it.

I am wondering if I could use automotive rubbing compound and a buffer
to clean up the table. (Or will this make the table not flat anymore?)

Take a few hours wandering around the old woodworking tools website.
They've got tons of information on using sandpaper etc to clean rust
off old tables, how good is good enough, and answers to other questions
you haven't thought of yet. Much more info that you'll get here because
they've been cataloging, categorizing it, and storing it for so long.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message

It easily could. Light rust can be cleaned up by hand with steel wool,
using
paint thinner or light machine oil as a lubricant. If the tables are
heavily
rusted or pitted, it might be best to remove them and take them to a
machine
shop that has a surface grinder to be resurfaced.

I know you are aware of them, but for those unaware of them, these
"Sandflex" blocks:

http://www.theruststore.com/Sandflex...ack-P11C7.aspx

.... are also great for cleaning light rust off of cast iron table surfaces.
Medium for the tough ones, or Fine for surface prep prior to TopCote/JPW.

FWIW ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/29/06

Doug Miller wrote:
In article om, "stryped" wrote:

I am wondering if I could use automotive rubbing compound

NO. Don't use any automotive polishes, rubbing compounds, etc. on woodworking
equipment unless you are *certain* that they do not contain silicone (most
do).

I'd like to point out that "mass market" auto products, sold at Pep
Boys, Wal-Mart, etc... usually contain silicone, as Doug points out.

"Pro" products, like 3M, Mequires, PPG, etc... available at better auto
parts stores, auto paint suppliers, and hot rod shops, don't contain
silicone, and are clearly labeled as silicone-free. In my area, Advance
Auto, NAPA, and PPG Auto Paint stores all carry this stuff. My local
Sherwin-Williams stores can order it in.

Many woodworkers use pro-quality automotive products to finish and
repair lacquer finishes, as they are often of extremely high quality and
consistency, and less-expensive than similar products sold to the
woodworking market.

Just be certain of what you have, as Doug posted. If it dosen't say
"Silicone Free", it probably isn't.

stryped wrote:
What did you mean you needed a "jointer plane to get rid of it"?

Sorry, just confused.

By "it", I meant the cup in the board.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jointer_plane

stryped wrote:
Did I ruin the table by using silicone? I was going to use wd40 but did
not have any. Or can I remove the silicone with paint thinner?


Silicone is absorbed my metals.

From the General Chemical's "GenSolve" web site:


"Silicone and polysulfide, for instance, bond into metals and are
generally removed by mechanical methods that can damage the underlying
substrate.

Their web site says that "GenSolve" removes silicone but I have my doubts.

See:

http://www.genchemcorp.com/electroch...gensolve.shtml

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On 18 Sep 2006 07:36:29 -0700, stryped wrote:

Did I ruin the table by using silicone? I was going to use wd40 but did
not have any. Or can I remove the silicone with paint thinner?

Paint thinner will not remove silicone.

Actually, they have a surface grinder at work. WIll this get the table true
if it is not already? Will I have to take the whole thing apart to get the
tables to a surface grinder?

Don't attack the tables with any kind of grinder, unless you are certain they
are not flat and true, and you know exactly how much off they are.

--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net

In article . com, "stryped" wrote:
Did I ruin the table by using silicone?

Probably not. But you should try to remove it ASAP.

I was going to use wd40 but did
not have any. Or can I remove the silicone with paint thinner?

No. Paint thinner won't touch the stuff. See below -- I already described what
to use to get it off.

Actually, they have a surface grinder at work. WIll this get the table
true if it is not already?

It will get the tables true, yes -- but you may need to make adjustments to
the jointer to get them coplanar.

Will I have to take the whole thing apart to
get the tables to a surface grinder?

I imagine that'd be easiest.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article om, "stryped"
wrote:


I cleaned up the thing. (It had a lot of wasp nests in it!). Cleaned
the table with paint thinker and then sprayed it and all the moving
parts with silicone.

Oops. That wasn't a good idea. Best to get the silicone off. About the only
thing that really has much of a chance of doing that is a dry-cleaning
solvent
such as trichloroethane or something similar. Look for the brand name
Carbo-Chlor at Ace or Tru-Value Hardware -- possibly at Home Depot, Lowes, or
Menards, too.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Would brake cleaner work?

I can look for that stuff but have never heard of it.
Doug Miller wrote:
In article om, "stryped" wrote:


I cleaned up the thing. (It had a lot of wasp nests in it!). Cleaned
the table with paint thinker and then sprayed it and all the moving
parts with silicone.

Oops. That wasn't a good idea. Best to get the silicone off. About the only
thing that really has much of a chance of doing that is a dry-cleaning solvent
such as trichloroethane or something similar. Look for the brand name
Carbo-Chlor at Ace or Tru-Value Hardware -- possibly at Home Depot, Lowes, or
Menards, too.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

I layed a metal square on the table and could see light under the
middle. Did not use a guage to see how much.

What is the best way to determin if the table needs reground and how to
measure it?

Can any metal rule be used as a straight edge?
Art Greenberg wrote:
On 18 Sep 2006 07:36:29 -0700, stryped wrote:

Did I ruin the table by using silicone? I was going to use wd40 but did
not have any. Or can I remove the silicone with paint thinner?

Paint thinner will not remove silicone.

Actually, they have a surface grinder at work. WIll this get the table true
if it is not already? Will I have to take the whole thing apart to get the
tables to a surface grinder?

Don't attack the tables with any kind of grinder, unless you are certain they
are not flat and true, and you know exactly how much off they are.

--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net

In article . com, "stryped" wrote:
Would brake cleaner work?

No.

I can look for that stuff but have never heard of it.

That's what you need.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article om, "stryped"
wrote:


I cleaned up the thing. (It had a lot of wasp nests in it!). Cleaned
the table with paint thinker and then sprayed it and all the moving
parts with silicone.

Oops. That wasn't a good idea. Best to get the silicone off. About the only
thing that really has much of a chance of doing that is a dry-cleaning
solvent
such as trichloroethane or something similar. Look for the brand name
Carbo-Chlor at Ace or Tru-Value Hardware -- possibly at Home Depot, Lowes, or
Menards, too.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article . com,
"stryped" wrote:
Would brake cleaner work?

No.

I can look for that stuff but have never heard of it.

That's what you need.


I admit I have never tried to get silicon off of an iron table before, but
it seems to be that if it can mess up finishing on wood, then apparently the
wood must be taking some of it off... if the wood is removing it, it seems
like it shouldn't be that hard to get it off of there...

I dont know if they carry blades for this jointer since it is so old. I
went to the sears website and they said "parts are not available for
this model".
Lee wrote:
You may want to checkout buying new blades. Might be cheaper....they where
for me.
www.woodworker.com
"stryped" wrote in message
ps.com...
Hi,

i got a call from my dad who was at an auction. he knew I wanted a
jointer. He said one was there. I asked if it was in good shape. He
said yea. To make a long story short, he got it for 50 bucks. He
brought it home and It looks very old. It is a craftsman model number
103.23320. It is missing a belt. It is on top of a home made stand with
wheels. On the second shelf of the stand is a sears and robuck motor
with a pully with several different sized pulleys on one pulley. The
jointer has a fence. It has 3 knifes that look like they are not gouged
but probably need sharpened.

I typed the model number on the sears website and it said parts are no
longer available.

I cleaned up the thing. (It had a lot of wasp nests in it!). Cleaned
the table with paint thinker and then sprayed it and all the moving
parts with silicone.

The infeed side of the table on one end seems to be about 1/16 or more
higher than the parallel side. (6 inches away) Is there an adjustment
for this?

The motor when I plugged it in works or at least spins without a belt.

Is this think going to be usable for edge jointing and face planing
small boards or is it going to be more trouble than it is worth?

Any informaion as always is appreciated!

Is a level necessar or will any atraightedge do?
wrote:
stryped wrote:
Do you remember how you adjusted it to get coplaner?

Not in detail, only that I must have taken that outfeed table on and
off about a dozen times and I used a four-foot level. There's an
article on adjusting old jointer tables on the OWWT website and that's
what I used for a guide. It's been a few years now since I did that and
I'm at the point where my brain makes room for new stuff by dumping
other stuff.

Were you able to
do glue ups with it without other work to the board?

For short boards - about two feet or so - yeah. Made pretty good edges.
Longer boards tended to exagerate the original problem; if there was a
little bit of cup in the edge, there was more cup in it after it ran
through. You can minimize that, and I've heard some guys know how to
make a short bed jointer joint a long board, but I needed a jointer
plane to get rid of it.

I am wondering if I could use automotive rubbing compound and a buffer
to clean up the table. (Or will this make the table not flat anymore?)

Take a few hours wandering around the old woodworking tools website.
They've got tons of information on using sandpaper etc to clean rust
off old tables, how good is good enough, and answers to other questions
you haven't thought of yet. Much more info that you'll get here because
they've been cataloging, categorizing it, and storing it for so long.

stryped wrote:
I dont know if they carry blades for this jointer since it is so old. I
went to the sears website and they said "parts are not available for
this model".

Blades aren't the same as other replacement parts - sizes SHOULD be
pretty much standard. Even if Craftsman did sell them, I wouldn't get
them from there.
Once you figure out what dimensions the blades are (measure them), just
look around until you find some that are the right size. You might
check out http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1110
to start.
Andy

stryped wrote:
Is a level necessar or will any atraightedge do?

Go to the old woodworking machines website. The answer's there and also
many more that you haven't asked the questions for yet.
http://www.owwm.com/

In article , "Locutus" wrote:

I admit I have never tried to get silicon off of an iron table before, but
it seems to be that if it can mess up finishing on wood, then apparently the
wood must be taking some of it off... if the wood is removing it, it seems
like it shouldn't be that hard to get it off of there...

The problem is that the stuff isn't soluble in most common solvents. The only
ones that I've observed to have any real effect on it are the chlorinated
hydrocarbons such as trichloroethane (the supposedly safer replacement for
carbon tetrachloride, AKA tetrachloromethane) and, believe it or not, common
household vinegar. Of course, vinegar isn't a real good thing to put on cast
iron...

I have observed the following solvents to *not* remove the residue of silicone
caulk from a bathtub and bath tiles:

soap & water
dish detergent
ammonia
ethyl alcohol
isopropyl alcohol
paint thinner
acetone
xylene
turpentine
lacquer thinner

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug Miller wrote:

I have observed the following solvents to *not* remove the residue of silicone
caulk from a bathtub and bath tiles:
(snip)

....and even sanding just spreads it around.

In article .com, "boorite" wrote:

Doug Miller wrote:

I have observed the following solvents to *not* remove the residue of
silicone
caulk from a bathtub and bath tiles:
(snip)

....and even sanding just spreads it around.

Yep.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On 18 Sep 2006 07:36:29 -0700, "stryped" wrote:

Did I ruin the table by using silicone?

No.

Or can I remove the silicone with paint thinner?

Probably not but I wouldn't worry too much about that until I got the
tables in line with each other.

Actually, they have a surface grinder at work.

You very likely do NOT need to do that.

Will I have to take the whole thing apart to
get the tables to a surface grinder?

I doubt you need to take it to the grinder but I suspect you might
need to take the thing apart to clean it up and remove any debris from
the table grooves to get them in line. It's not a difficult process
but it does take some time. In the end, you'll be glad you did it.

Mike O.

On 18 Sep 2006 09:40:22 -0700, stryped wrote:

I layed a metal square on the table and could see light under the
middle. Did not use a guage to see how much.

What is the best way to determin if the table needs reground and how to
measure it?

Can any metal rule be used as a straight edge?

Only if its edge is straight.

Better to use an instrument built for the purpose. A 24" aluminum
straightedge, probably just about long enough to check your jointer tables,
can be purchased for around $25. Still, that's money that could be used for
something more useful, especially if you can borrow a proper straightedge for
the few minutes it will take to properly evaluate those tables.

--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net

"stryped" wrote in
ps.com:

Hi,

i got a call from my dad who was at an auction. he knew I wanted a
jointer. He said one was there. I asked if it was in good shape. He
said yea. To make a long story short, he got it for 50 bucks. He
brought it home and It looks very old. It is a craftsman model number
103.23320. It is missing a belt. It is on top of a home made stand with
wheels. On the second shelf of the stand is a sears and robuck motor
with a pully with several different sized pulleys on one pulley. The
jointer has a fence. It has 3 knifes that look like they are not gouged
but probably need sharpened.

I typed the model number on the sears website and it said parts are no
longer available.


I have the identical machine. It was given to me by a friend. It had been
stored in the back of a shop for years and had dull knives, no motor, no
stand, and the bearings were bad. And it was a ball of rust. But I took
it completely apart, cleaned off most of the rust, re-painted it, built a
stand and spent about $150 bucks to replace the missing/bad parts. It
still has rust stains on the beds but they are flat. After re-alignment it
works like a champ.

I bought new knives at Sears for about $30, part number 92293. They're
pretty standard.

If you don't know much about jointers, PLEASE read up on them before you
turn this thing on. There is a lot of stuff on the web on alignment and
safe use.

Don

"stryped" wrote:


Actually, they have a surface grinder at work. WIll this get the table
true if it is not already? Will I have to take the whole thing apart to
get the tables to a surface grinder?

Grinding won't help your table alignment problem, and is gross
overkill for rust or other surface clean-up. Useful if the tables are
warped (i.e., if a straight edge on ONE table shows a general cupping
or bow, or if winding sticks (DAGS) show a twist in one table or the
fence face.)


--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

"stryped" wrote:

I layed a metal square on the table and could see light under the
middle. Did not use a guage to see how much.

What is the best way to determin if the table needs reground and how to
measure it?
If you are putting the straight edge on one table (not across two
tables or one table plus blades), it might need grinding. Don't worry
about small local depressions, such as minor rust pitting or small
areas where a previous owner might have gotten too aggressive in
rubbing out some rust, though.

Can any metal rule be used as a straight edge?

Good straight edges can get expensive. An inexpensive alternative is a
pair of plastic "draftsman triangles". I haven't used them, but
understand from others that these are generally very accurate and not
subject to warping. Sounds like the "lose out" in a comparison to
metal straight edges (to the tolerances of concern to a woodworker)
only in lack of durability.

Put two triangles "back to back" so that they form a larger triangle.
if there is a dip in the table, when the tops of the triangles touch,
there will be a gap at the bottom
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

How did you tell the bearings were bad? Thanks so much for that part
number. Does yours work well edge and face jointing? What size boards
can you use on it?

I have read alot. I think the ifrst thing I need to do is adjust the
table. Do you have any advice?

Mine is missing the guard. I guess there is no hope finding a
replacement?
Don Wheeler wrote:
"stryped" wrote in
ps.com:

Hi,

i got a call from my dad who was at an auction. he knew I wanted a
jointer. He said one was there. I asked if it was in good shape. He
said yea. To make a long story short, he got it for 50 bucks. He
brought it home and It looks very old. It is a craftsman model number
103.23320. It is missing a belt. It is on top of a home made stand with
wheels. On the second shelf of the stand is a sears and robuck motor
with a pully with several different sized pulleys on one pulley. The
jointer has a fence. It has 3 knifes that look like they are not gouged
but probably need sharpened.

I typed the model number on the sears website and it said parts are no
longer available.


I have the identical machine. It was given to me by a friend. It had been
stored in the back of a shop for years and had dull knives, no motor, no
stand, and the bearings were bad. And it was a ball of rust. But I took
it completely apart, cleaned off most of the rust, re-painted it, built a
stand and spent about $150 bucks to replace the missing/bad parts. It
still has rust stains on the beds but they are flat. After re-alignment it
works like a champ.

I bought new knives at Sears for about $30, part number 92293. They're
pretty standard.

If you don't know much about jointers, PLEASE read up on them before you
turn this thing on. There is a lot of stuff on the web on alignment and
safe use.

Don

Is that the right part number? I went to sears.com and they had a
different number and they were 24.99?
Don Wheeler wrote:
"stryped" wrote in
ps.com:

Hi,

i got a call from my dad who was at an auction. he knew I wanted a
jointer. He said one was there. I asked if it was in good shape. He
said yea. To make a long story short, he got it for 50 bucks. He
brought it home and It looks very old. It is a craftsman model number
103.23320. It is missing a belt. It is on top of a home made stand with
wheels. On the second shelf of the stand is a sears and robuck motor
with a pully with several different sized pulleys on one pulley. The
jointer has a fence. It has 3 knifes that look like they are not gouged
but probably need sharpened.

I typed the model number on the sears website and it said parts are no
longer available.


I have the identical machine. It was given to me by a friend. It had been
stored in the back of a shop for years and had dull knives, no motor, no
stand, and the bearings were bad. And it was a ball of rust. But I took
it completely apart, cleaned off most of the rust, re-painted it, built a
stand and spent about $150 bucks to replace the missing/bad parts. It
still has rust stains on the beds but they are flat. After re-alignment it
works like a champ.

I bought new knives at Sears for about $30, part number 92293. They're
pretty standard.

If you don't know much about jointers, PLEASE read up on them before you
turn this thing on. There is a lot of stuff on the web on alignment and
safe use.

Don

"stryped" wrote in
s.com:

Is that the right part number? I went to sears.com and they had a
different number and they were 24.99?
Don Wheeler wrote:
"stryped" wrote in
ps.com:


I should have mentioned that I bought these about 10 years ago. They may
not carry them now or changed the part number. I still have the box. I
store the old blades in it. I figured that some day I might have them
sharpened. Anyway, the writing on the box says "Fits all craftsman 6 1/8
inch jointer/planers". YOu could take one of the old knives down to your
local Sears and compare them with what they have. I think thats what I
did.

About the missing guard. To me, that would be a show stopper. I wouldn't
want to run it without a guard. Jointers are scary enough even with a
guard.

Figuring out that the bearings were bad was easy. They went crunch crunch
when I rotated the cutter. They are a standard size. I took one to a local
bearing supply house and they sold me equivalent replacements.

Don

Any idea on where I could find a guard ro how to construct one?

Also,
Don Wheeler wrote:
"stryped" wrote in
s.com:

Is that the right part number? I went to sears.com and they had a
different number and they were 24.99?
Don Wheeler wrote:
"stryped" wrote in
ps.com:


I should have mentioned that I bought these about 10 years ago. They may
not carry them now or changed the part number. I still have the box. I
store the old blades in it. I figured that some day I might have them
sharpened. Anyway, the writing on the box says "Fits all craftsman 6 1/8
inch jointer/planers". YOu could take one of the old knives down to your
local Sears and compare them with what they have. I think thats what I
did.

About the missing guard. To me, that would be a show stopper. I wouldn't
want to run it without a guard. Jointers are scary enough even with a
guard.

Figuring out that the bearings were bad was easy. They went crunch crunch
when I rotated the cutter. They are a standard size. I took one to a local
bearing supply house and they sold me equivalent replacements.

Don

Just so the original poster does not get confused here, It seems to me
that the cost of getting a regrind of the tables might exceed the
overall value of this particular machine, unless you are buddies with a
machinist and can get it done for a case of beer.

Mutt

Doug Miller wrote:
In article om, "stryped" wrote:


I am wondering if I could use automotive rubbing compound

NO. Don't use any automotive polishes, rubbing compounds, etc. on woodworking
equipment unless you are *certain* that they do not contain silicone (most
do). You don't want silicone rubbing off of the equipment onto the wood,
because it will interfere with many finishes. (Google this group for more
info on that.)

and a buffer
to clean up the table. (Or will this make the table not flat anymore?)

It easily could. Light rust can be cleaned up by hand with steel wool, using
paint thinner or light machine oil as a lubricant. If the tables are heavily
rusted or pitted, it might be best to remove them and take them to a machine
shop that has a surface grinder to be resurfaced.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"stryped" wrote in
ups.com:

Any idea on where I could find a guard ro how to construct one?

Sorry, I can't help you there. I suppose if you could find something to fit
the hex shaped hole in the guard return mechanism, you could make a guard
out of 3/4 inch plywood. Take a look at some jointers and you'll see how
they are typically shaped. Make sure it covers the knives in all possible
fence locations.

Don