Can anyone tell me if there's a special tool needed to change the blade
on a Rockwell 315 Circular Saw? It seems pretty easy, but as I spin the
bolt with my wrench, the nut or mount on the other side of the blade
spins.

It looks like you can get a wrenh on it, biut it would have to be very
thin to fit between the blade and the motor. I don't see anything to
keep the motor from spinning when you change the blade either.

If anyone has had one of these before, please let me know how I can
easily chage the blade.

Thanks,

Brian

n3lka at hotmail.com

wrote in message
ups.com...
Can anyone tell me if there's a special tool needed to change the blade
on a Rockwell 315 Circular Saw? It seems pretty easy, but as I spin the
bolt with my wrench, the nut or mount on the other side of the blade
spins.

It looks like you can get a wrenh on it, biut it would have to be very
thin to fit between the blade and the motor. I don't see anything to
keep the motor from spinning when you change the blade either.

If anyone has had one of these before, please let me know how I can
easily chage the blade.


Typically the wrench that comes with a TS is made from thin stamped steel.
Use 2 wrenches, one on each side.

Thanks for the reply Leon.

I bought this at the flea market about 5 years ago, and finally needed
to replace the blade, and never had any of the accessories.

I was able to keep the shaft from turning by using a screwdriver on
the cooling fan. Crude, but it worked.

Looks like a trip to the flea market to find a wrench that will fit and
then grind it down to fit for the next time. For as much as I use it, I
may not need to change the blade for another 5 years.


Leon wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
Can anyone tell me if there's a special tool needed to change the blade
on a Rockwell 315 Circular Saw? It seems pretty easy, but as I spin the
bolt with my wrench, the nut or mount on the other side of the blade
spins.

It looks like you can get a wrenh on it, biut it would have to be very
thin to fit between the blade and the motor. I don't see anything to
keep the motor from spinning when you change the blade either.

If anyone has had one of these before, please let me know how I can
easily chage the blade.


Typically the wrench that comes with a TS is made from thin stamped steel.
Use 2 wrenches, one on each side.

Thanks for the reply Leon.

I bought this at the flea market about 5 years ago, and finally needed
to replace the blade, and never had any of the accessories.

I was able to keep the shaft from turning by using a screwdriver on
the cooling fan. Crude, but it worked.

Looks like a trip to the flea market to find a wrench that will fit and
then grind it down to fit for the next time. For as much as I use it, I
may not need to change the blade for another 5 years.


Leon wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
Can anyone tell me if there's a special tool needed to change the blade
on a Rockwell 315 Circular Saw? It seems pretty easy, but as I spin the
bolt with my wrench, the nut or mount on the other side of the blade
spins.

It looks like you can get a wrenh on it, biut it would have to be very
thin to fit between the blade and the motor. I don't see anything to
keep the motor from spinning when you change the blade either.

If anyone has had one of these before, please let me know how I can
easily chage the blade.


Typically the wrench that comes with a TS is made from thin stamped steel.
Use 2 wrenches, one on each side.

If you have an air compressor and a 3/8" drive impact wrench with the
correct size socket you can spin the nut off in an instant by simply
holding the blade with your hand. For those not used to impact wrench
behavior, wear a glove. Be sure to run the nut on finger tight first
when installing. If you're on a budget, an impact like the Harbor
Freight 37730 at under $30 will do fine. Porter-Cable is also marketing
Chinese knockoffs of the Ingersol-Rand line that are decent but heavy,
maybe twice the price. Good luck.

Joe

wrote:
Can anyone tell me if there's a special tool needed to change the blade
on a Rockwell 315 Circular Saw? It seems pretty easy, but as I spin the
bolt with my wrench, the nut or mount on the other side of the blade
spins.

It looks like you can get a wrenh on it, biut it would have to be very
thin to fit between the blade and the motor. I don't see anything to
keep the motor from spinning when you change the blade either.

If anyone has had one of these before, please let me know how I can
easily chage the blade.

Thanks,

Brian

n3lka at hotmail.com

I can't be the only trade carpenter that grew up using these things.
Tell me it ain't so...
They used to be the standard for all us sidewinder users. I have
burned up more than two or three of these.

Both wrenches were rarely around when needed, so the removal went
thusly:

Drop the depth until the blade sticks about an inch. Pull the blade
guard back and plant the teeth of the blade onto a scrap of wood.
Engage wrench (5/8") on the spider nut and turn while holding the saw
still. The spider nut is made to self tighten, and the hard brass
washer it sits on has surely gathered its share of pitch and dust to
make it difficult to get off. And most of the time these nuts were
tightened with wild abandon "just to make sure".

If it will not loosen, spray some kind of break free agent on it, and
try again. The worst thing you will have to do if it will not come
loose easily is to hold the saw as above and tap on the end of the
wrench to knock it loose. Lay on the saw to keep it still and the
blade/arbor from rotating if you have to as the blade in the saw is
finished anyway.

Clean all the lubricant off the brass washer, lube the threads on the
spider nut, and snug it up to the new blade. That's it.

I used to carry a wrench in my nail bags to make a quick change if I
hit a nail since in those days we all used steel blades! My old blade
card still has about 30 of those worthless things on them... sharpened
to about an inch smaller than when they started thanks to our friendly
Belsaw guy.

Robert

wrote in message
oups.com...

I can't be the only trade carpenter that grew up using these things.
Tell me it ain't so...
They used to be the standard for all us sidewinder users. I have
burned up more than two or three of these.

Both wrenches were rarely around when needed, so the removal went
thusly:

Drop the depth until the blade sticks about an inch. Pull the blade
guard back and plant the teeth of the blade onto a scrap of wood.
Engage wrench (5/8") on the spider nut and turn while holding the saw
still. The spider nut is made to self tighten, and the hard brass
washer it sits on has surely gathered its share of pitch and dust to
make it difficult to get off. And most of the time these nuts were
tightened with wild abandon "just to make sure".


I think the problem here is that the blade will spin on the shaft and the
nut is sorta frozen on the threads.

replying to n3lka, Anthony wrote:
I made one from 1/8" flat stock steel and a grinder

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for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...fo-114489-.htm

replying to n3lka, Dan wrote:
There are presently a set of those wrenches available on eBay

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...fo-114489-.htm