Okay ... another question on fine cuts
 

What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it would be
difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.

http://www.deltamesa.com/Wood/tess.gif

Maybe a jig of some sort with the scroll saw? These are tesselation
forms and so I'd have to be able to cut out several of them with a fair
degree of accuracy.

Other than simply having a surgeon's steady hand, what's the best
approach to cutting these shapes?

Jack

Okay ... another question on fine cuts
 

On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 14:59:58 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" wrote:

What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it would be
difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.

http://www.deltamesa.com/Wood/tess.gif

Maybe a jig of some sort with the scroll saw? These are tesselation
forms and so I'd have to be able to cut out several of them with a fair
degree of accuracy.

Other than simply having a surgeon's steady hand, what's the best
approach to cutting these shapes?

If I had to do it- and I think I'd avoid it- I'd cut them a little
oversized on the bandsaw, then file or sand them down to the mark.
Looks like an awfully fussy project, though.

Okay ... another question on fine cuts
 

mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it
would be
difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.


Not if you are any good with a scroll saw.

My landlord has a guy who makes temporary tooling use a scroll saw
free hand.

For him, it would be a piece of cake.

Lew

Okay ... another question on fine cuts
 

Hello,

I commented Your recent posting on accurate cuts on small pieces.

Tessellation forming means You readily have well determined geometrical
quantities for angles and distances. Also, If I understand correctly,
You want to make these cuts in a board. Because in woodworking there is
no seamless zero-loss cutting, you need to correct the cut by blade
thickness correction.

If for some reason You have doubts on Your ability to cut by the hand
guiding, then You need a jig. Actually, to me it's more fun to practice
to do such things by hand, but sometimes something demands more for
some reason.

Just a suggestion: Extend the table of the scroll saw with large piece
of fiberboard. If You already are aware of tessellation angles and
distances, You should be able to define the placement of jig fence with
a pair of compasses and a ruler. Note that You also must consider the
dimensions and squareness of the workpiece.

The challenge is that You will need one parallel edge in the working
piece board for each cut angle inside the board. I count 4 cut angles.
I do not know Your situation, but seems to me that If You cut these
forms inside a chess board, You need extra assisting framing around the
board where all of these angle are presented.

Then You need either quite a lot of accurately cut straigth blanks to
use with the static jig fence to compensate distances inside the board,
or You need adjustable and very accurately positioned fence. It's going
to be quite a hassle, but why not :) It's cool, anyway.

If You need a lot of these, it is always possible to take them to Your
nearest waterjet cutting service. They need a 2D cad file for the cut.
I mean, if accuracy is the only thing needed here, then I in Your
position would go for that.

Regards,

Samu

mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net kirjoitti:

What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it would be
difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.

http://www.deltamesa.com/Wood/tess.gif

Maybe a jig of some sort with the scroll saw? These are tesselation
forms and so I'd have to be able to cut out several of them with a fair
degree of accuracy.

Other than simply having a surgeon's steady hand, what's the best
approach to cutting these shapes?

Jack

Okay ... another question on fine cuts
 

Jack wrote...
What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it would be
difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.


I'd make oversized templates, clamp em onto my Gorton Pantograph Mill, and
pound out as many a dem puppies I need, then clean out the inside corners
with a chisel.



--
Timothy Juvenal
www.rude-tone.com/work.htm

Okay ... another question on fine cuts
 

Yeah, actually, a jig like you're describing would in fact be possible.
The angles are well defined and as long as the sum of the angles on the
jig are in a reasonable bound, even a slight deviation from the original
design would work ... for my needs anyway.

And yes, this would in fact be a VERY strange chessboard. But I have
some very strange friends. I should show you the non-linear tic-tac-toe
games they play.

I think though that I will try it by hand at first. Maybe after twenty
or thirty tries, I can get the hang of it. I have no problem cutting
nice smooth curves on the scrollsaw because slight errors get absorbed
in the noise.

Thanks!

Jack


wrote:
Hello,

I commented Your recent posting on accurate cuts on small pieces.

Tessellation forming means You readily have well determined geometrical
quantities for angles and distances. Also, If I understand correctly,
You want to make these cuts in a board. Because in woodworking there is
no seamless zero-loss cutting, you need to correct the cut by blade
thickness correction.

If for some reason You have doubts on Your ability to cut by the hand
guiding, then You need a jig. Actually, to me it's more fun to practice
to do such things by hand, but sometimes something demands more for
some reason.

Just a suggestion: Extend the table of the scroll saw with large piece
of fiberboard. If You already are aware of tessellation angles and
distances, You should be able to define the placement of jig fence with
a pair of compasses and a ruler. Note that You also must consider the
dimensions and squareness of the workpiece.

The challenge is that You will need one parallel edge in the working
piece board for each cut angle inside the board. I count 4 cut angles.
I do not know Your situation, but seems to me that If You cut these
forms inside a chess board, You need extra assisting framing around the
board where all of these angle are presented.

Then You need either quite a lot of accurately cut straigth blanks to
use with the static jig fence to compensate distances inside the board,
or You need adjustable and very accurately positioned fence. It's going
to be quite a hassle, but why not :) It's cool, anyway.

If You need a lot of these, it is always possible to take them to Your
nearest waterjet cutting service. They need a 2D cad file for the cut.
I mean, if accuracy is the only thing needed here, then I in Your
position would go for that.

Regards,

Samu

mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net kirjoitti:


What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it would be
difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.

http://www.deltamesa.com/Wood/tess.gif

Maybe a jig of some sort with the scroll saw? These are tesselation
forms and so I'd have to be able to cut out several of them with a fair
degree of accuracy.

Other than simply having a surgeon's steady hand, what's the best
approach to cutting these shapes?

Jack

Okay ... another question on fine cuts
 

"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" wrote:

What if the cut you're making requires precision points? The following
cutout shapes (link below) could be done on a scrollsaw, but it would be
difficult to get the lines perfectly straight.

http://www.deltamesa.com/Wood/tess.gif

Maybe a jig of some sort with the scroll saw? These are tesselation
forms and so I'd have to be able to cut out several of them with a fair
degree of accuracy.

Other than simply having a surgeon's steady hand, what's the best
approach to cutting these shapes?

Is there any reason you need to make these boards out of blocks of solid
wood? Seems to me that what you're doing would be a lot easier using
marquetry techniques and veneer.


Jack

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Okay ... another question on fine cuts
 

You might want to contact this guy:

http://pwdbp.com/?

I meet him a couple of months ago. He built a very special sliding
table
for this table saw, yes table saw to achieve the cuts he wanted.
Perhaps
there are others who do puzzles that can help. There are links to
others.

Good luck!

MJ Wallace