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#1
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Joining MDF?
Have a project to build a small set of tables. For cost AND ease of
purchase the Beach Vainered MDF 19mm seems the best buy for this work. Not having used this for any lasting work, only backing, or shelving, so the fitting was not of any real concern as it did not matter if it was visible, how should I fix these MDF parts together? I need fixings for strength, durability, and Cosmetic appearances. The idea is to have 4 legs made from 2 pieces of material joined along their longest edge, making a 90 degree angled section. The corners of these will be facing outwards, lining up with the table tops, and their inner faces will have a small pieces of material to make a box frame, along these lines: Table top ******************************* ************************* ******* piece for ******* * boxing/fill in * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Legs from top: ****** join here ****** ** ** ** For the legs I would normally use either a dowel or biscuit, and then a Mortice, and tenon for the frame to support the table, but not sure if this material is up to this amount of machining. The top could be fitted using buttons, or small fill in piece screwed, and glued to both the frame and the top, but the frame and legs I'm really not sure of how to joint them. Any help here will be most greatfully received Cheers Deb |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
"Deb" wrote in message ... Have a project to build a small set of tables. For cost AND ease of purchase the Beach Vainered MDF 19mm seems the best buy for this work. Not having used this for any lasting work, only backing, or shelving, so the fitting was not of any real concern as it did not matter if it was visible, how should I fix these MDF parts together? I need fixings for strength, durability, and Cosmetic appearances. If you need strength and durability in a table, MDF is an oxymoron. How much more could pine or poplar cost? -- -Mike- |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
Mike Marlow wrote:
"Deb" wrote in message ... Have a project to build a small set of tables. For cost AND ease of purchase the Beach Vainered MDF 19mm seems the best buy for this work. Not having used this for any lasting work, only backing, or shelving, so the fitting was not of any real concern as it did not matter if it was visible, how should I fix these MDF parts together? I need fixings for strength, durability, and Cosmetic appearances. If you need strength and durability in a table, MDF is an oxymoron. How much more could pine or poplar cost? Got to be of a beach finish, but I cannot get the sections large enough to do the job. Totally agree Pine would be better, but just not the same look or grain structure. Any idea on how to overcome this MDF problem? Cheers Deb |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
Mike Marlow wrote:
"Deb" wrote in message ... Have a project to build a small set of tables. For cost AND ease of purchase the Beach Vainered MDF 19mm seems the best buy for this work. Not having used this for any lasting work, only backing, or shelving, so the fitting was not of any real concern as it did not matter if it was visible, how should I fix these MDF parts together? I need fixings for strength, durability, and Cosmetic appearances. If you need strength and durability in a table, MDF is an oxymoron. How much more could pine or poplar cost? Got to be of a beach finish, but I cannot get the sections large enough to do the job. Totally agree Pine would be better, but just not the same look or grain structure. Any idea on how to overcome this MDF problem? Cheers Deb |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
On Tue, 30 May 2006 15:28:53 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote: "Deb" wrote in message ... Have a project to build a small set of tables. For cost AND ease of purchase the Beach Vainered MDF 19mm If you need strength and durability in a table, MDF is an oxymoron. How much more could pine or poplar cost? I've used MDF for a large table top, but any part requiring any strength was still solid oak. The only way the MDF was used was as a flat panel surrounded by oak for the top ...biscuit joinery, good glue and clamps, and lots of varnish to waterproof. To try to use it for legs etc, he might as well use papier mache. i won't do it again for a large project, but might for a small one. Still ...surround by oak for adjoining parts and so on. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
"Deb" wrote in message ... Mike Marlow wrote: "Deb" wrote in message ... Have a project to build a small set of tables. For cost AND ease of purchase the Beach Vainered MDF 19mm seems the best buy for this work. Not having used this for any lasting work, only backing, or shelving, so the fitting was not of any real concern as it did not matter if it was visible, how should I fix these MDF parts together? I need fixings for strength, durability, and Cosmetic appearances. If you need strength and durability in a table, MDF is an oxymoron. How much more could pine or poplar cost? Got to be of a beach finish, but I cannot get the sections large enough to do the job. Totally agree Pine would be better, but just not the same look or grain structure. Any idea on how to overcome this MDF problem? Cheers Deb Yes, replace the MDF with plywood. MDF compensates for its heavy weight with its low strength. Jim |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
G'day Deb,
There are lots MDFobia's out there, but used properly it is a great material that can do a lot of things that solid timber can't. I'm not quite sure what you are trying to do ??? Biscuits join MDF well so do screws and glue. If using it for legs or other parts of furniture that touches the floor put glides on the bottom of the legs. This allows the object to be moved easily and stops water damage when the floors are mopped. If using it in damp areas such as bathrooms, laundry etc. use HMR. Perhaps if you can post a sketch I may be able to be of more assistance. regards John |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
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#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
On Tue, 30 May 2006 19:07:29 GMT, Deb wrote:
Have a project to build a small set of tables. For cost AND ease of purchase the Beach Vainered MDF 19mm seems the best buy for this work. Not having used this for any lasting work, only backing, or shelving, so the fitting was not of any real concern as it did not matter if it was visible, how should I fix these MDF parts together? How are you planning on finishing it? If you're going to paint, pocket screws work well, and you can fill them with bondo. This would still work fine if you plan on laminating or veneering it. Crappy stuff, but surprisingly forgiving and fun to work with. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
I'm also betting you can pocket screw the legs, somehow. Tom
Prometheus wrote: On Tue, 30 May 2006 19:07:29 GMT, Deb wrote: Have a project to build a small set of tables. For cost AND ease of purchase the Beach Vainered MDF 19mm seems the best buy for this work. Not having used this for any lasting work, only backing, or shelving, so the fitting was not of any real concern as it did not matter if it was visible, how should I fix these MDF parts together? How are you planning on finishing it? If you're going to paint, pocket screws work well, and you can fill them with bondo. This would still work fine if you plan on laminating or veneering it. Crappy stuff, but surprisingly forgiving and fun to work with. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
John B wrote:
G'day Deb, There are lots MDFobia's out there, but used properly it is a great material that can do a lot of things that solid timber can't. I'm not quite sure what you are trying to do ??? Biscuits join MDF well so do screws and glue. If using it for legs or other parts of furniture that touches the floor put glides on the bottom of the legs. This allows the object to be moved easily and stops water damage when the floors are mopped. If using it in damp areas such as bathrooms, laundry etc. use HMR. Perhaps if you can post a sketch I may be able to be of more assistance. regards John Did try to send a full plan but this group would not let me use attachments, so did the every poor sketch found in the first post. :-( Can post to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking, with a picture, or plan, would that be ok or may I email you direct? Thanks for the help so far Deb |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
Deb wrote:
Have a project to build a small set of tables. For cost AND ease of purchase the Beach Vainered MDF 19mm seems the best buy for this work. Not having used this for any lasting work, only backing, or shelving, so the fitting was not of any real concern as it did not matter if it was visible, how should I fix these MDF parts together? CLIP I built a 4'x8' model train table out of 1/2" MDF and it is holding up well. It is on casters in a carpeted room. I pull it out to work on and push it back in the corner when I'm done. The legs are 3" wide, two pieces in a L shape. #10 Biscuits every 6", lots of glue, and coarse thread screws. Four years old and hasn't loosened at all. -- Bill Berglin "Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'WOW! What A RIDE!!" ... Unknown |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
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#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
Deb wrote:
John B wrote: G'day Deb, There are lots MDFobia's out there, but used properly it is a great material that can do a lot of things that solid timber can't. I'm not quite sure what you are trying to do ??? Biscuits join MDF well so do screws and glue. If using it for legs or other parts of furniture that touches the floor put glides on the bottom of the legs. This allows the object to be moved easily and stops water damage when the floors are mopped. If using it in damp areas such as bathrooms, laundry etc. use HMR. Perhaps if you can post a sketch I may be able to be of more assistance. regards John Did try to send a full plan but this group would not let me use attachments, so did the every poor sketch found in the first post. :-( Can post to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking, with a picture, or plan, would that be ok or may I email you direct? Thanks for the help so far Deb Yep, no probs emailing me I'm sure you can decipher the address, just leave out the NOTTHIS More than pleased to help if I can. regards John |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
He is talking about VENEERED mdf, which is used in the
U.K. and all over europe because of cost. It is also used extensivly here in the USA by a LOT of furniture manufactures. Many folks have no idea they are looking at MDF when they see the finished product. He is NOT talking about raw mdf sold in home centers. Prometheus wrote: How are you planning on finishing it? If you're going to paint, pocket screws work well, and you can fill them with bondo. This would still work fine if you plan on laminating or veneering it. Crappy stuff, but surprisingly forgiving and fun to work with. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
On Wed, 31 May 2006 19:44:34 GMT, Pat Barber
wrote: He is talking about VENEERED mdf, which is used in the U.K. and all over europe because of cost. It is also used extensivly here in the USA by a LOT of furniture manufactures. Many folks have no idea they are looking at MDF when they see the finished product. He is NOT talking about raw mdf sold in home centers. Sure man, I got it- no need for the excessive emphesis. We use veneered MDF at work, I just didn't catch it in the original post the first time through. In that case, it's pretty simple to countersink and screw it together, and then make a nice frame to cover the edges and screw holes. Alternately, it seems to hold together ok with simple miters with or without biscuts, especially if there is some other internal structure with better joinery to re-enforce it. |
#17
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Joining MDF?
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#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
I have seen these threads on MDF for years on
this group. The amount of bad information here can be really incredible at times. Did not mean to over emphasize. Since you have some background in it's use, you can write a short version of how to use the product in more practical situations. MDF is a great product if used in a correct and planned manner. Raw mdf is great for jigs, braces and many other uses that plywood often gets cut up for. It can not be beat for prototypes and patterns. MDF is also MUCH cheaper to purchase than plywood. Prometheus wrote: Sure man, I got it- no need for the excessive emphesis. We use veneered MDF at work, I just didn't catch it in the original post the first time through. In that case, it's pretty simple to countersink and screw it together, and then make a nice frame to cover the edges and screw holes. Alternately, it seems to hold together ok with simple miters with or without biscuts, especially if there is some other internal structure with better joinery to re-enforce it. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Joining MDF?
On Thu, 01 Jun 2006 14:48:36 GMT, Pat Barber
wrote: I have seen these threads on MDF for years on this group. The amount of bad information here can be really incredible at times. Did not mean to over emphasize. Since you have some background in it's use, you can write a short version of how to use the product in more practical situations. Not sure what you're looking for, but I gave the OP some suggestions on ABPW, after seeing the plan. MDF is a great product if used in a correct and planned manner. Raw mdf is great for jigs, braces and many other uses that plywood often gets cut up for. It can not be beat for prototypes and patterns. MDF is also MUCH cheaper to purchase than plywood. Sure, I like MDF- I've even come around to preferring it over standard plywood because of the lack of voids. I wonder (though have no real idea) how many folks confuse it with particle board, especially when I hear people say that it's weak. Particle board, I can break on the edge of a plastic garbage can with no effort- MDF is kind of like trying to bust a hunk of pine, sometimes even stronger than that, because of the lack of knots to weaken the structure. Only reason I said it was crappy is the horrendous dust- other than that, it's great. Made a box jointing jig out of the stuff a few hours ago, and it worked a whole lot nicer than the one made of solid pine that it was replacing. At work, all the cabinets are made of it- as long as the cherry, maple, or oak is what the customer sees, they're happy as can be. |
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