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Posted to rec.woodworking
Todd
 
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Default Radial Arm Saw Table Fence...

Hi,

I aquired a radial arm saw without a table. I've built a new table out
of 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF laminated together. I plan on putting a
sacrificial top on it, as well embedding a fence into it. Which brings
me to the actual question. I need to know where to put the fence. How
far from the post of the RAS? Do I want the blade to be COMPLETELY
behind the fence when pushed all the way back?

I'm not going to be using the RAS for anything but cross cutting, so
I'm not going to use any clamping mechanisms to hold the fence in
place. I assumed I would put a 3/4 dado where I want the fence, and
just place a 3/4 MDF fence in the slot.


So...any thoughts about this? Also, how tall should the fence be?

- Thanks,

Todd

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Posted to rec.woodworking
 
Posts: n/a
Default Radial Arm Saw Table Fence...


Todd wrote:
Hi,

I aquired a radial arm saw without a table. I've built a new table out
of 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF laminated together. I plan on putting a
sacrificial top on it, as well embedding a fence into it. Which brings
me to the actual question. I need to know where to put the fence. How
far from the post of the RAS? Do I want the blade to be COMPLETELY
behind the fence when pushed all the way back?

I'm not going to be using the RAS for anything but cross cutting, so
I'm not going to use any clamping mechanisms to hold the fence in
place. I assumed I would put a 3/4 dado where I want the fence, and
just place a 3/4 MDF fence in the slot.


So...any thoughts about this? Also, how tall should the fence be?

- Thanks,

Todd


For the most part, whatever seems to make sense for your intended use
will be fine regarding both the position and the height of the fence.
Many factory fences are designed to allow you to reposition the fence
within the range of a few inches. Since I am of the camp that prefers
to pull the blade through the workpiece, I like the blade to be able to
sit completely behind the fence in the rest position. Occasionally I
will move the fence to get a few extra inches of crosscut capacity and
push the blade through the work. I do this much less now that I have a
table saw.

I made a taller fence for mine to give me some additional room to clamp
hold-downs and stops for repetitive cuts. You just have to make sure
it's not so tall as to interfere with the travel of the motor carriage.

It's a real timesaver to have a crosscut-dedicated RAS in the shop,
especially if you're in anything like a production mode. You might also
want to make some jigs for common mitre angles. It's nice to be able to
do that on the RAS if you have a table saw setup that you don't want to
change.

Enjoy it!
Tom

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Charley
 
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Default Radial Arm Saw Table Fence...

You didn't say what size or brand your RAS was.

Really, if all you plan to do is cross cutting, why not just measure where
the blade is in the back position and then set the fence position slightly
forward of that. Another thought, if you have a Craftsman saw, is to pay a
visit to the nearest Sears store with your tape measure and notepad in your
pocket. They don't seem to mind if you tell them that all you want is a few
measurements. I've done it myself a few times.

--
Charley


"Todd" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I aquired a radial arm saw without a table. I've built a new table out
of 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF laminated together. I plan on putting a
sacrificial top on it, as well embedding a fence into it. Which brings
me to the actual question. I need to know where to put the fence. How
far from the post of the RAS? Do I want the blade to be COMPLETELY
behind the fence when pushed all the way back?

I'm not going to be using the RAS for anything but cross cutting, so
I'm not going to use any clamping mechanisms to hold the fence in
place. I assumed I would put a 3/4 dado where I want the fence, and
just place a 3/4 MDF fence in the slot.


So...any thoughts about this? Also, how tall should the fence be?

- Thanks,

Todd



  #4   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Teamcasa
 
Posts: n/a
Default Radial Arm Saw Table Fence...


"Todd" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I aquired a radial arm saw without a table. I've built a new table out
of 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF laminated together. I plan on putting a
sacrificial top on it, as well embedding a fence into it. Which brings
me to the actual question. I need to know where to put the fence. How
far from the post of the RAS? Do I want the blade to be COMPLETELY
behind the fence when pushed all the way back?

I'm not going to be using the RAS for anything but cross cutting, so
I'm not going to use any clamping mechanisms to hold the fence in
place. I assumed I would put a 3/4 dado where I want the fence, and
just place a 3/4 MDF fence in the slot.


So...any thoughts about this? Also, how tall should the fence be?

- Thanks,

Todd


I use a 2"x2" aluminum angle. Its 36" long and allows for easy clamping of
stops for repetitive cuts. In Addition, add a 45 deg champher to the top of
the table where it meets the fence. This will allow the odd bit of
sawdust/chip a place to go and assure your workpiece meets the fence
squarely.

Dave



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Posted to rec.woodworking
dadiOH
 
Posts: n/a
Default Radial Arm Saw Table Fence...

Todd wrote:
Hi,

I aquired a radial arm saw without a table. I've built a new table out
of 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF laminated together. I plan on putting a
sacrificial top on it, as well embedding a fence into it. Which brings
me to the actual question. I need to know where to put the fence. How
far from the post of the RAS? Do I want the blade to be COMPLETELY
behind the fence when pushed all the way back?


Yes. Assuming you value your hands and fingers.
__________

I'm not going to be using the RAS for anything but cross cutting, so
I'm not going to use any clamping mechanisms to hold the fence in
place. I assumed I would put a 3/4 dado where I want the fence, and
just place a 3/4 MDF fence in the slot.


Normally, a RAS table is two or more pieces, front table is fixed, back
table removeable. The fence is placed between them and the integral clamps
on the saw are used to clamp the back table against the fence and front
table.

Personally, I wouldn't want a fence just sitting in a dado. Even if you
glue or screw it in, fences get chewed up - yes, just from crosscutting -
and it is nice to be able to replace them. And even though you plan to only
crosscut you may change your mind in the future and it is handy to be able
to use specialized fences.
______________

So...any thoughts about this? Also, how tall should the fence be?


High enough so the piece being cut can be firmly held against it.
Generally, they are about 3/4" but I like mine higher...as high as possible
without the saw bottom hitting it.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico





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Posted to rec.woodworking
 
Posts: n/a
Default Radial Arm Saw Table Fence...

Todd, I've had a Craftsman RAS for quite a few years. As others have
posted the table is in two or three pieces. Mine has a larger table
fixed to the frame in front and it used to have two narrow tables
towards the back. When I replaced the table I combined the rear two
tables into just one and put the fence between the front fence and the
rear. I definitely wouldn't use a dado to attach the fence since
either it won't be very well secured or you won't be able to easily
replace it. My saw carriage has a plastic guard that you raise with
the saws grip handle. When it's in the down position it's right behind
the fence. This is important because this way the saw carriage, and
therefore the blade, won't be able to creep toward the front of the saw
while it's running unless you purposely raise the guard. If your saw
doesn't have a guard you should look into getting one. So I would
suggest putting the fence right in front of the guard, or where the
guard should be. I suppose different manufacturers use different types
of guards but I would hope that they all would be as safe as the one on
my much maligned Craftsman. Mine is from the early '90s and has made
excellent cuts of all sorts for a long time now with only occasional
maintenance. Even though my shop is completely full of most major
tools it still gets used almost every day for one job or another. If
you happen to have a Craftsman let me know and I'll send you some table
measurements. Be safe with that saw by not using a blade with too much
hook. I use a blade with a negative hook and it has much less of a
tendancy to want to grab onto and pull it's way through a board.

Bruce

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Posted to rec.woodworking
Wilson
 
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Default Radial Arm Saw Table Fence...

Been using mine since 1970!
You'll be doing long rips on it soon, far safer than a TS and it's easy to
handle long stock on a long table. Mine is eight ft. but I have used 16ft
tables for long stuff.
Wilson
wrote in message
oups.com...
Todd, I've had a Craftsman RAS for quite a few years. As others have
posted the table is in two or three pieces. Mine has a larger table
fixed to the frame in front and it used to have two narrow tables
towards the back. When I replaced the table I combined the rear two
tables into just one and put the fence between the front fence and the
rear. I definitely wouldn't use a dado to attach the fence since
either it won't be very well secured or you won't be able to easily
replace it. My saw carriage has a plastic guard that you raise with
the saws grip handle. When it's in the down position it's right behind
the fence. This is important because this way the saw carriage, and
therefore the blade, won't be able to creep toward the front of the saw
while it's running unless you purposely raise the guard. If your saw
doesn't have a guard you should look into getting one. So I would
suggest putting the fence right in front of the guard, or where the
guard should be. I suppose different manufacturers use different types
of guards but I would hope that they all would be as safe as the one on
my much maligned Craftsman. Mine is from the early '90s and has made
excellent cuts of all sorts for a long time now with only occasional
maintenance. Even though my shop is completely full of most major
tools it still gets used almost every day for one job or another. If
you happen to have a Craftsman let me know and I'll send you some table
measurements. Be safe with that saw by not using a blade with too much
hook. I use a blade with a negative hook and it has much less of a
tendancy to want to grab onto and pull it's way through a board.

Bruce



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JeffB
 
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Default Radial Arm Saw Table Fence...

As other have said, clamp the fence between two separate table top pieces.
Mounting a fence in a dado is not secure enough or anywhere near strong enough -
the saw is quite capable of pushing a cut-off piece of wood through a 3/4"
fence, if the situation arises. And, yes, the blade is meant to be behind the
fence (measured somewhat above the cutting height of the workpiece) when it's at
the back position. The front edge of the blade (behind the guard) can be
slightly forward of the fence.

If setup properly, a RAS won't creep forward, even when running. The blade runs
in a slot in the table, and the stand should be set so the motor/saw assembly
runs to the back stop under the pull of gravity. (Of course, when cutting, you
have to restrain the saw from feeding too quickly into the workpiece.)

You will probably have more than one fence, depending on what cut you are doing
at a particular time. And fences are meant to be replaceable. The only limit on
fence height is the bottom of the motor.

If you have a Craftsman saw, there still is a recall in effect -
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/ - that covered many saws made from the 1960s
through the 1990s. The free retrofit kit included a new saw guard and table.

Email me if you want more detailed measurements or pics...
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email
http://home.san.rr.com/jeffnann/Wood...odWorking.html

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Todd
 
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Default Radial Arm Saw Table Fence...

Thanks for the input.


I was actually thinking that a DADO would work well, since it would be
about an inch deep in a inch and a half thick table (not including the
replacable table top.)

The problem is, I don't have the clamps for the fence. The saw came to
me free, and used, and it didn't have the clamps on it. I figured I
could get away without it. Anyone have any suggestions as to what I
can do in place of those clamps to hold a fence in place?

- Thanks,


Todd

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Hambone Slim
 
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Default Radial Arm Saw Table Fence...



"Todd" wrote...
Anyone have any suggestions as to what I
can do in place of those clamps to hold a fence in place?


Todd:

I just use a scrap piece of cherry, planed straight, mebbe 2" wide by 3/4"
high. Screwed to the top. It's a good idea to make the fence adjustable
for square, and replacable so when you start making mitre cuts or dados or
whatever, you can move the fence to eliminate the cut parts, or just replace
it. IMO, the dado would be unnecessary and make the fence hard to adjust for
square, or to move backward or forward if you should decide you want that.

Also, the saw blade should be entirely behind the face of the fence. You
don't ever want to put a thick piece of lumber up to the running saw and
have it touch the blade. On my saw, the blade is about an inch back from
the face of the fence.





--
Timothy Juvenal
www.rude-tone.com/work.htm




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dadiOH
 
Posts: n/a
Default Radial Arm Saw Table Fence...

Todd wrote:
Thanks for the input.


I was actually thinking that a DADO would work well, since it would be
about an inch deep in a inch and a half thick table (not including the
replacable table top.)

The problem is, I don't have the clamps for the fence. The saw came to
me free, and used, and it didn't have the clamps on it. I figured I
could get away without it. Anyone have any suggestions as to what I
can do in place of those clamps to hold a fence in place?


On my Craftsman they are just two 1/4" wing bolts that go through threaded
steel "L"s that are mounted on the frame at the back. To clamp, the wing
bolts are turned so that they push the back table toward the fence.
Wouldn't be hard to make, would be far more convenient if they could be
turned from the front of the saw.

You could also secure both front and back tables to the saw frame leaving a
gap sufficient for the fence and wedges.

A nicety...
Sawdust accumulates on the table at the fence and you can't make accurate
cuts with it there. Your life can be easier if you attach some inverted
1/4" or 1/2" ply "V"s to the back of the front table so that there is a gap
between it and the fence; thus, much of the sawdust will fall through by
itself and what doesn't is easy to get rid of.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico



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