Finger/box joints: a report
 

Dear Group,

After all my playing around I can happily report that a router table
with straight bit does a VERY good job making these kinds of joints.
The fingers and spaces are uniform in size, fit snugly and look just
fine. The set-up isn't difficult and the only problem was finally
realizing that, unless a stop is used, the stock tends to kick right a
bit at first bite and my holes were ending up a bit bigger than I
wanted. I can also report that this mewthod works a lot better when
the grain is perpendicular to the bit. (At least with the oak and
utili I am using.) When cutting through cross grain the tearout at the
back (even with a backer) is a problem.

Respectfully submitted to the Group,
FoggyTown

Finger/box joints: a report
 

"foggytown" wrote in message
oups.com...
Dear Group,

After all my playing around I can happily report that a router table
with straight bit does a VERY good job making these kinds of joints.
The fingers and spaces are uniform in size, fit snugly and look just
fine. The set-up isn't difficult and the only problem was finally
realizing that, unless a stop is used, the stock tends to kick right a
bit at first bite and my holes were ending up a bit bigger than I
wanted. I can also report that this mewthod works a lot better when
the grain is perpendicular to the bit. (At least with the oak and
utili I am using.) When cutting through cross grain the tearout at the
back (even with a backer) is a problem.

May I add that it always a stronger joint when the fingers run in the same
direction as the grain. If your grain is perpendicular to the bit you
fingers will much more easily break off.

Finger/box joints: a report
 

Leon wrote:
"foggytown" wrote in message
oups.com...
Dear Group,

After all my playing around I can happily report that a router table
with straight bit does a VERY good job making these kinds of joints.
The fingers and spaces are uniform in size, fit snugly and look just
fine. The set-up isn't difficult and the only problem was finally
realizing that, unless a stop is used, the stock tends to kick right a
bit at first bite and my holes were ending up a bit bigger than I
wanted. I can also report that this mewthod works a lot better when
the grain is perpendicular to the bit. (At least with the oak and
utili I am using.) When cutting through cross grain the tearout at the
back (even with a backer) is a problem.

May I add that it always a stronger joint when the fingers run in the same
direction as the grain. If your grain is perpendicular to the bit you
fingers will much more easily break off.

Excellent point. I was probably aware of that somewhere in my deep
subconscious but I'll think about it actively from now on. :)

FoggyTown

Finger/box joints: a report
 

The foggytown entity posted thusly:

When cutting through cross grain the tearout at the
back (even with a backer) is a problem.

Use a backer/push block to shove the work through.

Finger/box joints: a report
 

"Oleg Lego" wrote in message
...
The foggytown entity posted thusly:

When cutting through cross grain the tearout at the
back (even with a backer) is a problem.

Use a backer/push block to shove the work through.


"Backer" seems to appear twice here.

Suppose it's worth mentioning that box joints are rarely seen across the
grain because it's strong and easy to glue the long grain entire.

Spiral bits and slower feed rates should help, however.

Finger/box joints: a report
 

A router will do the job, but a dado blade on a table saw makes much
neater cuts. I do it both ways with a home made micro-adjustable
stepping jig that allows me to adjust the tightness of the joint.
Bugs