I've had a 26" Vega utility fence (wish I would have gotten the 30"
pro) on a Delta contractor saw for about a year and a half. I think the
fence is great in so far as the accuracy and ease of adjustment. The
only problem I've had is outfitting the saw with anything else. I
cannot attach an outfeed table because of the back rail and having a
tube instead of a front rail prohibits mounting a side table kit(with
router insert). I suppose I can see different ways of mounting a side
table but does anyone have any ideas for the outfeed table (or attached
roller table) before I change to a bessy.

One other thing. What are your thoughts about toeing the fence a
degree or two (thickness of a business card) out.

"BD" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've had a 26" Vega utility fence (wish I would have gotten the 30"
pro) on a Delta contractor saw for about a year and a half. I think the
fence is great in so far as the accuracy and ease of adjustment. The
only problem I've had is outfitting the saw with anything else. I
cannot attach an outfeed table because of the back rail and having a
tube instead of a front rail prohibits mounting a side table kit(with
router insert). I suppose I can see different ways of mounting a side
table but does anyone have any ideas for the outfeed table (or attached
roller table) before I change to a bessy.

I have an out feed roller on my Jet cabinet saw and it has a back rail for
the Beis style fence. Bessy? or Beisemeyer? IIRC Beisemeyer uses a back
rail also. The table top has to be flat and the back rail is for supporting
the table extension.

One other thing. What are your thoughts about toeing the fence a
degree or two (thickness of a business card) out.

That will mask your other problem. If you toe out and rip a board several
times the waste side will have tooth marks on it that will possibly require
the need to run the board through a jointer between passes.

Your best cuts come from a dead on parallel to the blade fence, providing
your saw is set up properly. If you are having undesirable cuts, insure
that your fence is parallel to the blade and or get a better blade.

In article .com,
says...
I've had a 26" Vega utility fence (wish I would have gotten the 30"
pro) on a Delta contractor saw for about a year and a half. I think the
fence is great in so far as the accuracy and ease of adjustment. The
only problem I've had is outfitting the saw with anything else. I
cannot attach an outfeed table because of the back rail and having a
tube instead of a front rail prohibits mounting a side table kit(with
router insert). I suppose I can see different ways of mounting a side
table but does anyone have any ideas for the outfeed table (or attached
roller table) before I change to a bessy.

One other thing. What are your thoughts about toeing the fence a
degree or two (thickness of a business card) out.


FWIW, I've got one on a Sears saw, and I have both a folding outfeed
table a la Woodsmith, and a right-side extension table with router
insert. I do have the 50" rails on mine. Vega included some tabs
that bolted to the front & rear rails and a plan for building the
extension table.

Henry Bibb

So you can put the angle iron rails on under the Vega mounting
hardware? Where do you get just the rails? How did you mount a flip
up outfeed table around the square tube stock? Interesting

In article .com,
says...
So you can put the angle iron rails on under the Vega mounting
hardware? Where do you get just the rails? How did you mount a flip
up outfeed table around the square tube stock? Interesting


The flip-up table is based on a design in Woodsmith some years ago.
It uses two wooden extension arms that bolt to the ends of the two
normal table extensions, and extend toward the rear, far enough so
the table can hang vertically behind the motor. These were on the
saw when I bought the Vega, and mine happened to be fairly substantial
(1-1/4 ash), so I just notched the one on the right so the Vega
square tube (and the little metal finger thing on the end of the
fence) would slide through the slot. Handsaw, chisels & rasp.

My fence rails came with four mounting plates, which were nothing
more than flat pieces of steel, about 1/8" thick, rectangular,
already drilled with mounting holes. They bolt directly to the
round and square rails. I can't remember if the rails were pre-
drilled, but I think they were. I'm thinking these things are
about 4 or 5 inches by maybe 5 or 6. They bolt to the bottom
of the rail, oriented so they are on the inside of the rails.
You make a wooden table, and screw it to these plates.

Vega included a drawing with dimensions to make a side table
that bolted (lag screws) to these flat plates. I cut a hole
in mine, sized to fit the router plate I was already using
in a table-top router table setup. One thing you have to be
careful about, the front rail is bigger than the back, so the
vertical distance from where you want the top of the table to
be is less in the back than in the front. Vega's little diagram
pointed all that out rather well.

Only other thing I had to do was put legs on the outboard end,
because the saw would tend to tip otherwise. I made 'em foldable,
to ease rolling the thing aroung. Still have to be careful of
tipping however. But, as long as the motor's not on I'm not
so worried about that. I swing them down again when I get it
to where it's going.

Disclaimer: It's been awhile, and right now, my saw and I are
separated from each other, so I can't just go look to see how
things went together.

Hope it helps,
HB