Unnecessary jointer shimming
Recently, any time I tried to flatten one side of a board, my jointer
would start the cut OK but would remove less wood on the last 2/3 of the board. Eventually my board was wedge-shaped with the front edge narrower than the rear. I knew this is caused by the infeed and outfeed tables not being parallel. To get a true read on how much they are off you need to use a perfect straightedge the length of both tables. A good method of making a straight "test bar" is in Fine Woodworking issue 142. I checked all the other adjustments, blade height, gib screws, table height, etc, and they were all OK. I was going to shim my outfeed but I was puzzled as to how two perfectly flat tables can go out of parallel. After all, how much wear can occur in the gib and dovetail areas from the minor amount of table height adjusting done on a normal basis? Instead, I removed both of the tables and cleaned the gibs and dovetail areas. I reassembled and tested. It worked perfectly. Something, most likely sawdust, must have built up in the top edges of the dovetails to cause the out of parallel condition. Shimming the table would have also fixed the problem but all I would have been doing was compensating for dirty gib/dovetails. Dave |
Unnecessary jointer shimming
wrote in message
Recently, any time I tried to flatten one side of a board, my jointer would start the cut OK but would remove less wood on the last 2/3 of the board. Eventually my board was wedge-shaped with the front edge narrower than the rear. This is not uncommon, even with a well setup jointer. Despite the "wedge" shape, was the jointed surface of the board flat? If so, that's all you can expect from the jointer. To get rid of the wedge shape, and make the opposite surface/edge parallel to the jointed surface/edge, enter a planer for the surfaces, and the well setup table saw/fence for edges. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 12/13/05 |
Unnecessary jointer shimming
|
Unnecessary jointer shimming
I agree that a slight wedge shape can be normal while flattening one
side. But this was extreme. By the time I surfaced one side I had already lost over 1/4" of a 4/4" board. After the first few passes I knew something was wrong. There are times when shims are the only way to make the tables parallel. The purpose of my post was to alert guys that you might want to clean the dovetails before shimming. Swingman wrote: wrote in message Recently, any time I tried to flatten one side of a board, my jointer would start the cut OK but would remove less wood on the last 2/3 of the board. Eventually my board was wedge-shaped with the front edge narrower than the rear. This is not uncommon, even with a well setup jointer. Despite the "wedge" shape, was the jointed surface of the board flat? If so, that's all you can expect from the jointer. To get rid of the wedge shape, and make the opposite surface/edge parallel to the jointed surface/edge, enter a planer for the surfaces, and the well setup table saw/fence for edges. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 12/13/05 |
Unnecessary jointer shimming
Thanks for the post, Dave. I just purchased a used 8" jointer, and
removed the infeed table for transport (and weight reduction). I'll be cleaning up the ways and gibs before reattaching (may or may not remove the outfeed table ...) I was doing some edge jointing on my router table a month or so ago was getting this same behaviour - wedge shape forming. Turns out the two faces of my fence weren't perfectly coplaner because there was the slightest bit of schmutz (sp?) on the shim stock for the outfeed fence face. Regards, Chris |
Unnecessary jointer shimming
|
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:27 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter