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#1
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buck brothers planes
Any opinions on Buck Brothers hand planes? I know they're not in the
same league as Lee Valley or others but the price is nice. TIA |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
lucky4fingers wrote:
Any opinions on Buck Brothers hand planes? I know they're not in the same league as Lee Valley or others but the price is nice. TIA 100 years ago, Buck Bros was one of the great names in tools. Current production... uhhhhhh.... let's put it this way: my Buck Bros block plane, bought when I started wwing about 10 years ago, almost drove me screaming away from hand tools forever. I like a bargain, I'm not a tool snob, and I generally try to find some good in every tool, but this plane proved to be almost completely useless, except maybe as a paperweight, doorstop, or bad example. OTOH, I have some Buck Bros chisels of about the same age that are pretty decent, if a bit soft. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
"lucky4fingers" wrote in message Any opinions on Buck Brothers hand planes? I know they're not in the same league as Lee Valley or others but the price is nice. TIA You already know the answer. Save up and buy the LV that you really want. |
#4
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buck brothers planes
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#6
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buck brothers planes
"Jeff Kingsley" wrote:
I bought a smoothing Buck Brothers Plane because of its price. It was next to useless until I took it apart and re-ground the chip breaker to sit on the blade properly. After that it worked quite well. I think my next purchase of a plane will be a L-N. Why? The LN will cost you at least 4-6x the BB plane and you already know how to make one of the BB planes work quite well. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message news:LvZAf.10255$Le2.1015@trnddc04... "Jeff Kingsley" wrote: I bought a smoothing Buck Brothers Plane because of its price. It was snip Why? The LN will cost you at least 4-6x the BB plane and you already know how to make one of the BB planes work quite well. If you ask the question, you couldn't possibly understand. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
Rather than Buck Bros., you might consider Anant planes sold by Highland Hardware. Mutt lucky4fingers wrote: Any opinions on Buck Brothers hand planes? I know they're not in the same league as Lee Valley or others but the price is nice. TIA |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
Lowell Holmes wrote: "Lobby Dosser" wrote in message news:LvZAf.10255$Le2.1015@trnddc04... "Jeff Kingsley" wrote: I bought a smoothing Buck Brothers Plane because of its price. It was snip Why? The LN will cost you at least 4-6x the BB plane and you already know how to make one of the BB planes work quite well. If you ask the question, you couldn't possibly understand. I would like some help understanding. I bought a BB plane at HD because I had never used one, and I didn't want to drop $200 on one without some idea of whether I would use it regularly. After having used it some, I would consider a nicer plane if I had some inkling about the difference. I'm currently using it it plane some cherry boards that I glued together. I am experiencing tearout if I'm going against the grain. I think that happens with any plane, doesn't it? What would a LV plane give me that a BB doesn't? Thanks, --Michael |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
wrote in message oups.com... I would like some help understanding. I bought a BB plane at HD because I had never used one, and I didn't want to drop $200 on one without some idea of whether I would use it regularly. After having used it some, I would consider a nicer plane if I had some inkling about the difference. I'm currently using it it plane some cherry boards that I glued together. I am experiencing tearout if I'm going against the grain. I think that happens with any plane, doesn't it? What would a LV plane give me that a BB doesn't? Better wearing iron, undoubtedly, plus the ability to adjust the throat to take the type of shaving which would minimize tearout even up grain. Plus, if you've got big hands, a _lot_ more room for your knuckles. Keeps you from getting an impression of the plane body in the first joint of your little finger during longer sessions. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
When you say "ability to adjust the throat", are you talking about
adjusting the opening where the blade comes through the sole? I have looked over that plane trying to find a way to do that, and couldn't. But the nicer planes will let you do that? Thanks, --Michael |
#12
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buck brothers planes
Nevermind. I just looked them up and saw that they do offer that
adjustment. Thanks, --Michael |
#13
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buck brothers planes
"Lowell Holmes" wrote:
"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message news:LvZAf.10255$Le2.1015@trnddc04... "Jeff Kingsley" wrote: I bought a smoothing Buck Brothers Plane because of its price. It was snip Why? The LN will cost you at least 4-6x the BB plane and you already know how to make one of the BB planes work quite well. If you ask the question, you couldn't possibly understand. Sure I could. There have been times when I've had more money than sense. The LV planes I can understand. They've made some interesting changes. LN are probably good planes, but IMO not worth the money. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
Agreed.
"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message news:ibaBf.13495$jd5.3575@trnddc02... "Lowell Holmes" wrote: LN are probably good planes, but IMO not worth the money. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message news:ibaBf.13495$jd5.3575@trnddc02... "Lowell Holmes" wrote: "Lobby Dosser" wrote in message news:LvZAf.10255$Le2.1015@trnddc04... "Jeff Kingsley" wrote: I bought a smoothing Buck Brothers Plane because of its price. It was Sure I could. There have been times when I've had more money than sense. The LV planes I can understand. They've made some interesting changes. LN are probably good planes, but IMO not worth the money. I shouldn't have responded in such a smart ass way. I only have one Lie Nielson plane, a nice 140 skewed iron patterned after an old Stanley. There are alternatives to the $200 planes. I have old Stanley Baileys and Bedrocks purchased on EBay. A nice #4 Bailey can be had for well under $40. When you pick it up, you will know the difference. I wouldn't bother with the new Stanleys, but I know a school that uses them and they are tuned planes that do quite well. I have two Veritas planes and two Veritas spokeshaves. They came out of the box working. Moderate price and great quality. When you pick up a Lie Nielson plane or a Veritas plane after holding a modern Buck Brothers you will know the difference. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
Lobby Dosser wrote:
: Sure I could. There have been times when I've had more money than sense. : The LV planes I can understand. They've made some interesting changes. LN : are probably good planes, but IMO not worth the money. What makes them not worth the money? They're better machined than the Stanley Bedrock's they're derived from, have better and thicker blades, etc. -- Andy Barss |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
"Lowell Holmes" wrote:
"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message news:ibaBf.13495$jd5.3575@trnddc02... "Lowell Holmes" wrote: "Lobby Dosser" wrote in message news:LvZAf.10255$Le2.1015@trnddc04... "Jeff Kingsley" wrote: I bought a smoothing Buck Brothers Plane because of its price. It was Sure I could. There have been times when I've had more money than sense. The LV planes I can understand. They've made some interesting changes. LN are probably good planes, but IMO not worth the money. I shouldn't have responded in such a smart ass way. 'Sallright, I smart assed right back. ) Soon as I get the Cash together I'm looking at 3 or so Knight planes. Everyone here raves about the quality and the price is sure right. I'v got a number of older SBs I picked up on e-bay and garage sales. Also and old wooden jointer of about 26" length. The mouth is kind of wide and I can't decide whether to patch the mouth or use it as a scrub. Until then it just sits there as one reminder of all the stuff I need to tune. When I started along the Neander Way I was very ignorant and bought a new Record smoother. Probably put 20 hours into that sucker and I'm still not satisfied with it. Tuning the SBs went a lot quicker, so the Record was worth something. The same lesson could be learned on the Buck, for less than half the price of a new Record. Got a chance to fondle some of the LV planes and LN planes at last years Woodworking Show. I prefer the LVs. When they noticed that the drool was starting to pit the sides, I was asked to leave. ) I only have one Lie Nielson plane, a nice 140 skewed iron patterned after an old Stanley. There are alternatives to the $200 planes. I have old Stanley Baileys and Bedrocks purchased on EBay. A nice #4 Bailey can be had for well under $40. When you pick it up, you will know the difference. I wouldn't bother with the new Stanleys, but I know a school that uses them and they are tuned planes that do quite well. I have two Veritas planes and two Veritas spokeshaves. They came out of the box working. Moderate price and great quality. When you pick up a Lie Nielson plane or a Veritas plane after holding a modern Buck Brothers you will know the difference. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
Andrew Barss wrote:
Lobby Dosser wrote: : Sure I could. There have been times when I've had more money than : sense. The LV planes I can understand. They've made some interesting : changes. LN are probably good planes, but IMO not worth the money. What makes them not worth the money? They're better machined than the Stanley Bedrock's they're derived from, have better and thicker blades, etc. -- Andy Barss I can do the same job with cheaper planes. If I was starting from scratch, I'd buy the Buck for practice. If I tuned it to usefulness, fine. If not, then I've learned things at little cost and have a fairly decent doorstop. Then I can go on to picking up old SBs a Lot cheaper than LN. Better machined and thicker blades are not worth the difference in price. The LV shoulder planes, however, are on my list. I can't even come close to what they've done for shoulder planes by buying an old Stanley. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
On 23 Jan 2006 07:20:12 -0800, "Pig" wrote:
Rather than Buck Bros., you might consider Anant planes sold by Highland Hardware. I'd rather drive a Ford. |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
The Yugo of handplanes....seriously I don't think Anant planes are any
better than Buck Bros. Layne On Wed, 25 Jan 2006 08:18:37 +0000, Andy Dingley wrote: On 23 Jan 2006 07:20:12 -0800, "Pig" wrote: Rather than Buck Bros., you might consider Anant planes sold by Highland Hardware. I'd rather drive a Ford. |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
?B?4oCTIENvbG9uZWwg4oCT?= wrote in
news:2006012810114075249-nobody@verizonnet: What would a LV plane give me that a BB doesn't? A flat sole, maybe? Even better, a plane that's pretty much ready to go out of the box, vs one that may never be, no matter how much work you put into it. The BB (jack) that I've got (before I knew any better) has bad depressions at the mouth. And that's the good part of it. -- Regards, JT Speaking only for myself.... |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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buck brothers planes
John Thomas wrote:
?B?4oCTIENvbG9uZWwg4oCT?= wrote in news:2006012810114075249-nobody@verizonnet: What would a LV plane give me that a BB doesn't? A flat sole, maybe? Even better, a plane that's pretty much ready to go out of the box, vs one that may never be, no matter how much work you put into it. The BB (jack) that I've got (before I knew any better) has bad depressions at the mouth. And that's the good part of it. Hear! I got the same plane, and it's true that the mouth is *sunken* into the sole of the plane. Even better (worse!) it appears the forces required to stamp it out were enough to cause a (guessing from memory) 1/32" concavity along the length of the sole that is just a little to much to sand out... at least, I'm not looking forward to it. After 20 minutes of patient pushing only 1/2" near the ends were touched and I gave up. Get a used old stanley. I got one that'd been flattened on the sole, and it only took a few minutes to correct the rounded result. It's not a collector (despite the 2 patent dates), needed a new blade, had a "transitional" lever cap, and some clever repairs to a split knob (wires wrapped into carven slots, ends twisted together, and soldered all around), but it works and cost all of $12. er -- email not valid |
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