All about beeswax, or anyway, much about it useing it as a finishing agent.
Kindly provided by Alex:

Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

I'm just the secretary, and have reformatted his post and done very minor
edits to format it, and any mistakes are mine. I may also have added my own
information to a post, but it's insignificant in proportion. Here's the
contents of his kind response to a question on finishing:

0) Introduction
1) Notes on DAGS
2) Refining Beeswax
3) Variations on Beeswax as a lubricant
4) Basic Paste Polish
5) Artists' Varnish
6) Basic Beeswax Wood Polish
7) Shredded wax?
8) Leather Dressing
9) Skin Balm
10) Gun Grease
11) Outdoor finish
12) Leather, Lips, Lube, and Light Reflectance
13) Commonly used bullets lubes over the years
14) Beeswax Furniture Polish
15) Leather Waterproofer
16) A metal preservative
17) A metal polish
18) A wood polish
19) Working Safely with Beeswax
20) Removing Beeswax Spills

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0.Introduction
Here's a list of recipes I collected from the 'Net, for different finishes
and greases, If you have a local farmer's market, you can buy beeswax
from the honey sellers. you may want to copy and paste into a notepad
or print it... though it still hasn't been organised.

Bead stores also have ingots of beeswax.

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1. Notes on DAGS:
These were my search terms, I still got several finishing solutions as well:

a) "Beeswax as a lubricant"
b) "Beeswax as a lubricant for metal"
c) "Beeswax as a grease for metal"
d) "Beeswax used as grease"
e) "Beeswax formula for grease"
f) "Beeswax grease formula"
g) "uses for Beeswax"

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2. Refining Beeswax
One way to clean beeswax is to filter it using charcoal, diatomaceous
earth, and clay. Another way to clean (not quite as thorough) is to
strain the melted wax with cheesecloth, hosiery, or better yet, an old
sweatshirt, fleece side up. No bleach is used in Lumina's beeswax.

[Ed. Might be interesting to have something about bleaching, here?]

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3. Variations on Beeswax as a lubricant
Dear Cole Hardware,
Your hardware 'Tips' page is very informative. Reading your Beeswax as
a lubricant brought to mind a variation I've used for years.

If pure beeswax is too viscous (heavy) for a particular use try 50%
beeswax melted together with 50% motor oil. The best weathering oil
I've found for outdoor use is "Automotive Refrigeration Oil" available
at auto-supply stores. It's a high purity, high temperature oil that is
very clear and about #30 weight.

Heat oil in a double boiler (over a hot water bath ... not an open flame)
then add beeswax. Stir till melted then pour into a container like a
tuna can and allow to harden. It hardens to the consistency and texture
of shoe polish.

It makes a thin grease with very high film strength and it STAYS where
you put it. Perfect for low-speed, high load applications such as gate
hinges, hand tools joints (pliers, hedge clippers, etc). It appears
to last much longer than conventional greases when used outdoors. It's
hard to "flow" into a narrow joint, so the tool, hinge, etc should be
first warmed slightly (and carefully) with a propane torch, hair drier,
etc.
-MikeH via e-mail

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4. Basic Paste Polish
10oz. Beeswax
1 pint Solvent (turpentine or white spirit)

This simple blend makes an easy to use paste polish for furniture. The
quantity of solvent can be varied to produce polishes of different
consistencies; less solvent will make a firmer polish. Melt the wax
and slowly raise the temperature to about 160F. Heat the solvent to a
similar temperature and then blend it with the melted wax. Carefully
pour the mixture into a container, leave to cool and set, then close
the container securely.

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5. Artists' Varnish

3 parts in volume of finest turpentine spirit
1 part in volume of pure bleached beeswax.

Heat the wax and turpentine to 160 degrees F. Mix thoroughly until
cool. Wax varnish has a beautiful non-glossy sheen. It is easy to remove
from a painting or plaque without damaging the paint, though it yellows
a little faster then most other varnishes so you will have to clean your
painting sooner (after ten to fifteen years). However, it gives a period
effect that is hard to duplicate with modern materials.

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6. Basic Beeswax Wood Polish

1-1/2 parts Turpentine or white spirits
1 part Beeswax

Heat the wax to 160 degrees F. Heat the solvent to 160 degrees and
add to the wax. Mix until cool, then transfer to final containers.
The ratio of solvent to beeswax determines whether this is a paste wax
or a liquid polish. Other ingredients are often added such as pigments,
lemon oil, linseed oil, or tung oil. More volatile solvents such as
naptha are also added or substituted to make a faster-drying, thinner
polish Carnauba wax is often added to make a harder, shinier finish.

Classically, on "raw" wood the paste polish is applied warm, so the
turpentine soaks into the pores of the wood and pulls some beeswax with
it. Excess polish is brushed or scraped off. When dry, the resultant
wax film is polished with brisk rubbing. This beeswax and turpentine
polish may be "renewed" many times by brisk polishing. When more wax is
finally necessary, though, it is best to remove as much of the old wax
as possible before applying more polish. Old wax will often "gum up"
and make polishing more difficult.

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7. Shredded wax?
Beeswax makes a superior polish for wood and leather. For recipes calling
for shredded wax, grate the wax into shavings with a cheese/vegetable
grater.

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8. Leather Dressing

5-6 oz. Beeswax
8 oz. tallow
8 oz. neatsfoot oil

This is not a polish. It is a lotion that conditions and waterproofs
smooth leather superbly. Heat ingredients together to 160 degrees F. Mix
thoroughly and pour into containers.

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9. Skin Balm
Roughly equal parts of beeswax and olive oil melted together is all
that has been needed for centuries to make a salve that helps prevent
and heal chapping and rough skin. Olive oil has been mixed with beeswax
for centuries, and is good for dry skin that needs to be softened. In
modern times odorless/colorless mineral oil has been mixed with beeswax
to make a soft, flexible coating that is not absorbed by the skin and
repels water yet is removed easily with soap and water.

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10. Gun Grease
First, I have to give you the standard warning. All the ingredients
are flammable. You can get burned making this stuff. Under the right
circumstances you could burn down the house, as well as getting an
"owie". The following directions are for information only - not to be
followed. If you disregard this warning, don't call me with any sad
stories about how it came out, how poorly it worked for you or how it
ruined your gun, your wife left you or the dog got the runs after eating
your year's supply. You have been warned!

First I decide whither it is going to be winter or summer Gun Grease. Then
I decide just how hot or cold it is going to be. I'm always wrong, so
I just follow the rule of thumb. For midsummer, use the whole ingot of
beeswax. For spring or fall, 3/4 will do, while only half is needed for
winter grease. Whack the ingot into the chosen size.

Put the coffee can on the stove on a low to medium fire. Those that
are real careful might make a double boiler using a 3 pound coffee can
about a quarter full of water, instead of just working directly on the
burner. (You're not really doing this, are you? I told you not too!)

Dump in all the Crisco, then add the beeswax. Watch it melt. The wax will
melt slower than the Crisco. Stir the stuff until the wax is melted and
mixed well with the Crisco. Add a dollop of Olive Oil. (About an inch
out of a 8-1/2 oz bottle) Turn off the heat and stir until everything is
well mixed. Pour into molds or whatever you are planning to store it in.

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11. Outdoor finish
I cannot give exact proportions of the ingredients, but it goes something
like this:

1 lb beeswax
1 cup diesel oil
3/4 cup linseed oil
1/4 cup carbolineum

Procedu
heat diesel oil and linseed oil adding beeswax scales or small píeces
to aid melting. Add carbolineum to obtain dark wax if desired. When
mixture is blended and wax melted, put a feww drops on cold metal pan
or can lid. When cold, try for appropriate texture by rubbing between
fingers. The right consistency should be like that of light grease,
not paste. If finger test shows too thick, add some linseed or diesel
and test again. If finger test shows too runny, add some wax and test
again. Once the right texture is achieved, let cool.

Application:
using clean cloth (old socks are perfect)spread light coat of wax
over surface and rub until smooth and non tacky. Wood will acquire
fine lustre as more rubbings are applied. In my experience, even dark
wax with carbolineum (a messy, guey stuff)will not stain after proper
rubbing. Making wax too thick will leave surface tacky, sticky, and
impossible to polish.

For outdoor window frames and moldings, this wax is great. It could even
be made so thin and runny that application with a brush is easier. Always
wipe off excess as thick coats will remain sticky and collect dirt.

Keep wax in air tight container to prevent solvent evaporation.

Warning: only raw wood should be polished with wax, because wood fibers
will absorb the solvents. If varnished surfaces are waxed, the result
is not at all the same.

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12. Leather, Lips, Lube, and Light Reflectance
I like to melt beeswax and Vaseline together. Add the Vaseline until
it is the consistency you want when you let it harden. It makes good
lip balm, boot treatment (to waterproof and polish oil tanned leather
boots) and anything else you want to oil and polish. I've also done it
with neetsfoot oil instead of Vaseline for leather and it worked fine,
but no better than the Vaseline does.

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13. Commonly used bullets lubes over the years:

US Army 1855 - 1 part beeswax, 3 parts tallow
US Army 1861 - 8 parts beeswax, 1 part tallow
US Army 1873 - 8 parts bayberry wax, 1 part graphite
US Army 1880 - Japan wax
Sharps Rifle Co. 1878 - 1 part beeswax, 2 parts sperm oil.
Maynard Rifle 1890 - 1 part beeswax, 3 parts tallow
Marlin Firearms Co. 1891 - 1 part beeswax, 4 parts tallow
S&W 1891 - tallow
H.M. Pope 1900 - 3 parts mutton tallow, 2 parts bay wax, 1 part beeswax,
1 part steam cylinder oil, .2 of 1 part Acheson graphite. (The bay wax can
be omitted) A large Police Dept. 1962 - 1 part beeswax, 1 part paraffin
wax, 1 part cosmoline.

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14. Beeswax Furniture Polish
Beeswax has been used in furniture polish for centuries, and you can
use it to make some yourself.

Ingredients:
1/4 cup of liquid soap (not dish detergent)
1/4 lb grated beeswax
1/2 cup hot water
1 cup turpentine

Procedu
Dissolve the soap in the water and keep it warm (a minute or so in the
microwave will re-warm it, if required).

Melt the beeswax and turpentine together in a double boiler.

Slowly pour the soap mixture into the wax mixture, stirring constantly
until the mixture is thickened and slightly cooled. Pour into wide-mouthed
jars and seal with a lid once thoroughly cooled.

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15. Leather Waterproofer
This beeswax based water proofer is perfect for protecting leather shoes and
boots (not suede!) from water damage.

Ingredients:
2 parts (by weight) beeswax
1 part tallow or mutton fat (mutton preferred)

Procedu
Melt ingredients together in a double boiler and pour into wide-mouthed
jar or tin and let cool.

To use, rub the results (when they are cool) into leather and leave for
8 to 12 hours, then buff with a soft cloth.

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16. A metal preservative
Screws, nails, or metal parts will not rust readily if immersed in
molten beeswax and left until the temperature of the metal reaches that
of the molten wax. The metal will absorb some of the wax and become rust
resistant. For this to work, it is important for the metal to remain in
the molten wax long enough to attain the proper temperature. Otherwise
there will be only a surface coating of wax
which will wear of quickly.

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17. A metal polish
To make a protective coating and polish for metal, mix turpentine
(8 parts), beeswax (1 part),and boiled linseed oil (1/2 part)*. This
mixture also makes a good lubricant for saw blades and tablesaw tops.

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18. A wood polish
There are various proportions of beeswax with boiled linseed oil and/or
turpentine that make a good polish. It may take some experimentation to
find a consistency that you like. To make a paste, mix 1 part beeswax,
2 parts turpentine, and 2 parts linseed oil. A larger proportion of
beeswax will make a mixture that is stiffer, perhaps too stiff.

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19. Working Safely with Beeswax
Before you melt your first block of beeswax you should be aware of
the following:

Beeswax does not boil - it just gets hotter and hotter until it ignites.

Beeswax, like other waxes, is flammable and will ignite if it reaches
a high enough temperature. The safest way to melt it is to use a double
boiler, or set it in a pot inside a pot of water. Don't melt it in the
microwave; the uneven heating can result in areas in the wax hot enough
to catch fire. Do not place a pot of beeswax directly on the stove.

One approach that works very well is to use an old crock pot or deep fryer
(often available at second hand stores) as your heat source. Put some
water into it, set it to a temperature below the boiling point of water,
and set a clean juice can of wax in the water. Using one of these small
appliances allows you to do your work away from the kitchen if you wish
to, and eliminates the risk of starting a fire by dripping wax on a hot
stove element.

Melted beeswax is hot and will burn skin if it comes in contact. It is
a good idea to use oven mitts when pouring or stirring the wax.

Large pieces of wax will melt from the bottom up, and the melted wax
will expand. Molten wax can "errupt" from a pot of what looks like solid
wax. Keep a distance away from the pot until there is melted wax on the
top of the mass.

To measure a small amount of unmelted wax, grate it or scrape it off
the block of wax with a knife to obtain the amount you need.

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20. Removing Beeswax Spills
Okay, so you took all the usual precautions but somehow you've gotten wax
on your clothes or carpet. Now what? Here are a few tips that may help:

Use Cold
Your first step, whenever possible, should be to put it into the
freezer. This helps in two different ways:

Frozen beeswax is brittle, and flexing fabric with beeswax on and
in it after freezing the garment will often cause much of the wax to
crumble away.

Beeswax shrinks when it gets cold. This can cause it to pull awat from
inflexible surfaces. This is also why putting a candle holder in the
freezer can be a great way to get the remains of a candle out of your
favourite candle holder. Use Heat If the cold approach leaves some wax
or if it cannot be used, the next step is to use heat. Before you apply
any heat though, carefully remove any surface wax that you can so that
the heat does not simply melt the wax into whatever it is on.

When that is done, place something absorbant (paper towels, an old
t-shirt that you don't care about anymore, etc.) over the stain and
apply heat using a hair drier or an iron. As the wax melts some of it
should soak into your absorbent material. Move to a clean spot and do
it again. Repeat for as many times as you can still get some wax into it.

===8---------------

Hope that helps,

er
--
email not valid (really, I'm tsudonimh (Tsu Do Nimh) at a domain known
as gmail dot com if you have something you'd like to add to that info.
Or post on the rec.ww... I may see it there.)

You see? Two days later and no one has replied with interest, I knew that would
be true and it's why I never posted it before. But, I hope there are those that find
it useful.

And thanks for the editing! Looks real good now.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

AAvK wrote:
You see? Two days later and no one has replied with interest, I knew that would
be true and it's why I never posted it before. But, I hope there are those that find
it useful.

And thanks for the editing! Looks real good now.


Hey, I did! Thanks for all, and a good holiday and happy New Year to you.

er
-- email not valid

Have you ever substituted citrus solvent for the turpentine in the wood
furniture polish recipes? I'm looking for a tried and true recipe.
Thanks.

Sheila

Have you ever substituted citrus solvent for the turpentine in the wood
furniture polish recipes? I'm looking for a tried and true recipe.
Thanks.

Sheila


Personally I've never done any of the recipes in the original post that ER edited for
me, yet. But if you can find that, as made to be a solvent like turpentine I would try
it out, but not if it is merely orange oil. As turpentine is made from pine sap (also
called pitch or tar) it would have to be the same idea, as a solvent.

Have you found an orange-oil based solvent as a product?

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/