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What think ye? (project)
First plane:
http://www.xenius.org/tsudonimh/2005...eftrear-01.jpg Someone said it looks like a tape dispenser. :) There's no chip breaker because at the time I didn't have the appropriate metal, and because I don't relish the thought of hacksawing a slot in 1/8" low-carbon steel. The blade is 1/4" x 2" Starrett oil hardening steel. The body and sole (heh) are red oak, and the crosspin is maple. It's just shy of seven inches in length. Obviously I was using the Finch book as a guide, but I took liberties with the shape to follow my sense of ergonomics... I think the front hand rest should be flared and scooped out to allow a good push down. The mouth is tighter than a collec^Wneander at the flea market. I don't know how well it works yet because I haven't hardened and tempered the blade. I thought I had a forge lined up but I haven't got a return call from the guy that has one. :( I tried it with good success on a much smaller piece of metal (a marker knife blade) but I don't think that little propane torch can manage this big blade without some wool blanket (which looks to be my next purchase.) No sandpaper ever touched it. I'm also waiting on some shellac flakes, and oil. er -- email not valid |
What think ye? (project)
"Enoch Root" wrote in message ... First plane: http://www.xenius.org/tsudonimh/2005...eftrear-01.jpg Someone said it looks like a tape dispenser. :) There's no chip breaker because at the time I didn't have the appropriate metal, and because I don't relish the thought of hacksawing a slot in 1/8" low-carbon steel. The blade is 1/4" x 2" Starrett oil hardening steel. The body and sole (heh) are red oak, and the crosspin is maple. It's just shy of seven inches in length. Obviously I was using the Finch book as a guide, but I took liberties with the shape to follow my sense of ergonomics... I think the front hand rest should be flared and scooped out to allow a good push down. The mouth is tighter than a collec^Wneander at the flea market. I don't know how well it works yet because I haven't hardened and tempered the blade. I thought I had a forge lined up but I haven't got a return call from the guy that has one. :( I tried it with good success on a much smaller piece of metal (a marker knife blade) but I don't think that little propane torch can manage this big blade without some wool blanket (which looks to be my next purchase.) No sandpaper ever touched it. I'm also waiting on some shellac flakes, and oil. er -- email not valid |
What think ye? (project)
"Enoch Root" wrote in message
... First plane: http://www.xenius.org/tsudonimh/2005...eftrear-01.jpg Someone said it looks like a tape dispenser. :) There's no chip breaker because at the time I didn't have the appropriate metal, and because I don't relish the thought of hacksawing a slot in 1/8" low-carbon steel. The blade is 1/4" x 2" Starrett oil hardening steel. The body and sole (heh) are red oak, and the crosspin is maple. It's just shy of seven inches in length. Obviously I was using the Finch book as a guide, but I took liberties with the shape to follow my sense of ergonomics... I think the front hand rest should be flared and scooped out to allow a good push down. The mouth is tighter than a collec^Wneander at the flea market. I don't know how well it works yet because I haven't hardened and tempered the blade. I thought I had a forge lined up but I haven't got a return call from the guy that has one. :( I tried it with good success on a much smaller piece of metal (a marker knife blade) but I don't think that little propane torch can manage this big blade without some wool blanket (which looks to be my next purchase.) No sandpaper ever touched it. I'm also waiting on some shellac flakes, and oil. Looks great. How does it work? |
What think ye? (project)
Charles Self wrote:
"Enoch Root" wrote in message ... First plane: http://www.xenius.org/tsudonimh/2005...eftrear-01.jpg Someone said it looks like a tape dispenser. :) There's no chip breaker because at the time I didn't have the appropriate metal, and because I don't relish the thought of hacksawing a slot in 1/8" low-carbon steel. The blade is 1/4" x 2" Starrett oil hardening steel. The body and sole (heh) are red oak, and the crosspin is maple. It's just shy of seven inches in length. Obviously I was using the Finch book as a guide, but I took liberties with the shape to follow my sense of ergonomics... I think the front hand rest should be flared and scooped out to allow a good push down. The mouth is tighter than a collec^Wneander at the flea market. I don't know how well it works yet because I haven't hardened and tempered the blade. I thought I had a forge lined up but I haven't got a return call from the guy that has one. :( I tried it with good success on a much smaller piece of metal (a marker knife blade) but I don't think that little propane torch can manage this big blade without some wool blanket (which looks to be my next purchase.) No sandpaper ever touched it. I'm also waiting on some shellac flakes, and oil. Looks great. How does it work? Thanks. I can't tell you until I've hardened the blade. I've checked all the angles, though, and don't anticipate any trouble. er -- email not valid |
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