I've got a solid mahogany study that is ruined (IMO) by a dark stain.
I would like to sand off the finish (a lacquer, I was told) and the
underlying stain or dye to get to bare wood and then apply a pure tung
oil finish. Why tung oil? Well, someone told me it looked great and
could be renewed easily. I'm been reading threads here about tung oil
and have got myself confused. First, it sounds as if I may not need a
dye -- that the tung oil itself will perhaps give me the look I want.
I've experimented with a scrap piece and removed the finish and then
wetted the surface with water and it looked about like what I'm looking
for -- maybe just a little too light, perhaps not. So, questions:

1) Will multiple applications of the tung oil result in further
darkening so that I can keep applying (after drying) until I get the
color I want?

2) Or will a dye be necessary, first?

3) If I dye and get the exact color I want, will putting the tung oil
over it darken the color?

4) And I'm assuming that I *can* put tung oil over wood dye -- can I?

5) What grits of sandpaper should I use to get the wood stripped and
then ready for applying the dye or tung oil?

6) Do I sand or use steel wool between the dye and the tung oil or
between applications of tung oil?

wrote:

I've got a solid mahogany study that is ruined (IMO) by a dark stain.
I would like to sand off the finish (a lacquer, I was told) and the
underlying stain or dye to get to bare wood and then apply a pure tung
oil finish. Why tung oil? Well, someone told me it looked great and
could be renewed easily. I'm been reading threads here about tung oil
and have got myself confused. First, it sounds as if I may not need a
dye -- that the tung oil itself will perhaps give me the look I want.
I've experimented with a scrap piece and removed the finish and then
wetted the surface with water and it looked about like what I'm looking
for -- maybe just a little too light, perhaps not. So, questions:

1) Will multiple applications of the tung oil result in further
darkening so that I can keep applying (after drying) until I get the
color I want?

no

2) Or will a dye be necessary, first?

yes

3) If I dye and get the exact color I want, will putting the tung oil
over it darken the color?

yes

4) And I'm assuming that I *can* put tung oil over wood dye -- can I?

yes

5) What grits of sandpaper should I use to get the wood stripped and
then ready for applying the dye or tung oil?

whatever it takes. don't skip grits or you'll find it's next to
impossible to remove sanding marks.

6) Do I sand or use steel wool between the dye and the tung oil or
between applications of tung oil?

if you want, you can lightly sand after the dye with 220-320 to knock
off nubs raised by waterbased dye.

sanding between coats of tung oil -- depends on how fine a texture you
want. let your fingers be your guide


Dave

Get that piece of scrap and try different combinations of dye/stain and oil
to see what you want is what you'll get. Once you get the right combination
your in.
wrote in message
oups.com...
I've got a solid mahogany study that is ruined (IMO) by a dark stain.
I would like to sand off the finish (a lacquer, I was told) and the
underlying stain or dye to get to bare wood and then apply a pure tung
oil finish. Why tung oil? Well, someone told me it looked great and
could be renewed easily. I'm been reading threads here about tung oil
and have got myself confused. First, it sounds as if I may not need a
dye -- that the tung oil itself will perhaps give me the look I want.
I've experimented with a scrap piece and removed the finish and then
wetted the surface with water and it looked about like what I'm looking
for -- maybe just a little too light, perhaps not. So, questions:

1) Will multiple applications of the tung oil result in further
darkening so that I can keep applying (after drying) until I get the
color I want?

2) Or will a dye be necessary, first?

3) If I dye and get the exact color I want, will putting the tung oil
over it darken the color?

4) And I'm assuming that I *can* put tung oil over wood dye -- can I?

5) What grits of sandpaper should I use to get the wood stripped and
then ready for applying the dye or tung oil?

6) Do I sand or use steel wool between the dye and the tung oil or
between applications of tung oil?

1) Will multiple applications of the tung oil result in further
darkening so that I can keep applying (after drying) until I get the
color I want?

no

2) Or will a dye be necessary, first?

yes

3) If I dye and get the exact color I want, will putting the tung oil
over it darken the color?

yes

4) And I'm assuming that I *can* put tung oil over wood dye -- can I?

yes

5) What grits of sandpaper should I use to get the wood stripped and
then ready for applying the dye or tung oil?

whatever it takes. don't skip grits or you'll find it's next to
impossible to remove sanding marks.

6) Do I sand or use steel wool between the dye and the tung oil or
between applications of tung oil?

if you want, you can lightly sand after the dye with 220-320 to knock
off nubs raised by waterbased dye.

sanding between coats of tung oil -- depends on how fine a texture you
want. let your fingers be your guide


Dave

Thanks!

I guess there should have been a question 0!

0) If I like the look of the wood when it is wet with water, will I
get a smiliar look with just the tung oil? (Look in terms of color and
darkness.)

wrote:

I guess there should have been a question 0!

0) If I like the look of the wood when it is wet with water, will I
get a smiliar look with just the tung oil? (Look in terms of color
and darkness.)

Yes but probably a bit more intense than with water. You can always
apply some (oil) to the bare wood you know and see what it looks like.
If you don't like the effect without stain (dye) sand it off and stain.

Seems a real shame to me to consider staining mahogany. Doing so would
not only subvert its natural beauty in color and grain but make any
future repairs much more difficult.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Excellent point and matches my own thinking -- but I'm trying to match
a desk. Still I think with water it looked pretty close to my desk.
My wife thought it was a little light, though. This office is
beautifully made -- mostly solid mahogany, although in some places 3/4"
mahogany plywood was used. The shelves are an actual 2" thick mahogany
planks.

Next question: How do I get the dye and lacquer from those hard to get
to places -- any special sanding tools or are there chemicals?

wrote:
1) Will multiple applications of the tung oil result in further

darkening so that I can keep applying (after drying) until I get the
color I want?


no


2) Or will a dye be necessary, first?

yes

3) If I dye and get the exact color I want, will putting the tung oil
over it darken the color?

yes

4) And I'm assuming that I *can* put tung oil over wood dye -- can I?

yes

5) What grits of sandpaper should I use to get the wood stripped and
then ready for applying the dye or tung oil?

whatever it takes. don't skip grits or you'll find it's next to
impossible to remove sanding marks.

6) Do I sand or use steel wool between the dye and the tung oil or
between applications of tung oil?

if you want, you can lightly sand after the dye with 220-320 to knock
off nubs raised by waterbased dye.

sanding between coats of tung oil -- depends on how fine a texture you
want. let your fingers be your guide


Dave


Thanks!

I guess there should have been a question 0!

0) If I like the look of the wood when it is wet with water, will I
get a smiliar look with just the tung oil? (Look in terms of color and
darkness.)

yes, wet wood is ALMOST the same color as several coats of Tung. Not
EXACT, but pretty close.

Dave

wrote:
Excellent point and matches my own thinking -- but I'm trying to match
a desk. Still I think with water it looked pretty close to my desk.
My wife thought it was a little light, though. This office is
beautifully made -- mostly solid mahogany, although in some places
3/4" mahogany plywood was used. The shelves are an actual 2" thick
mahogany planks.

Next question: How do I get the dye and lacquer from those hard to
get to places -- any special sanding tools or are there chemicals?

Lacquer thinner melts lacquer, just wipe on, wait a bit, wipe off.
Repeat as necessary then sand.

Unless you can disassemble there is no magic way to sand in hard to
reach places but often a scraper is better, easier and faster.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Thanks again!

One (I hope!) final question. If I decide I want to use a dye before
applying the tung oil, is there a particular type I must use -- oil
based, for example?

wrote:

Thanks again!

One (I hope!) final question. If I decide I want to use a dye before
applying the tung oil, is there a particular type I must use -- oil
based, for example?

you can used water based dye

David wrote:
wrote:

Thanks again!

One (I hope!) final question. If I decide I want to use a dye before
applying the tung oil, is there a particular type I must use -- oil
based, for example?

you can used water based dye

Ot alcohol. Any.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Okay, I received the Tung Oil and rubbed it onto the wood and let it
dry. It's not as shiny as I would like -- in fact, it's not shiny at
all. Is this because I only have sanded with 60 grit? When I go to
220 or whatever, will it be shinier? Or is Tung Oil not shiny? If it
isn't shiny, would I wax it afterward, or is it just not for me?
Thanks!

wrote:
Okay, I received the Tung Oil and rubbed it onto the wood and let it
dry. It's not as shiny as I would like -- in fact, it's not shiny at
all. Is this because I only have sanded with 60 grit?

60 grit is for removing lots of wood, not preparing a surface for
finising.
_________________

When I go to
220 or whatever, will it be shinier?

Not much. After multiple coats it will be slightly shinier but not like
a shiny, clear top coating such as varnish or lacquer.
________________

Or is Tung Oil not shiny?

Basically, no. No "in the wood" finish is.
________________

If it isn't shiny, would I wax it afterward,

You could. After sanding the wood with fine grit (how fine depends on
the wood) and applying numerous coats of oil (wiping off all excess each
time) and letting it dry thoroughly, rub it out with #0000 steel wool,
wax and buff. That will give you a pleasant glow but still not like a
glossy top coat.

BTW, if you are using *pure* tung oil you should be diluting it about
1:4 with mineral spirits.
__________________

or is it just not for me?

Depends. What do you want?


--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

wrote:

Okay, I received the Tung Oil and rubbed it onto the wood and let it
dry. It's not as shiny as I would like -- in fact, it's not shiny at
all. Is this because I only have sanded with 60 grit? When I go to
220 or whatever, will it be shinier? Or is Tung Oil not shiny? If it
isn't shiny, would I wax it afterward, or is it just not for me?
Thanks!

you can buy a shinier kind of tung oil from Formby.

Dave

I'm using Behlen's and they say you *can* dilute it 1:4 but don't say
why you might want to -- is it just cost, because the cost of this oil
is going to be the least of my concerns.

They also recommend a 360 grit finish. I hadn't planned to go that
fine for mahoganey -- what do you suggest?

People add solvent to get the finish to dry faster. If time is not a
problem, then I would not dilute.

A 60 grit prepared surface will not look good, whatever finish. You need at
least 200. I get decent results with 200 and a Random Orbit Sander.

A 360 grit surface will look better. It is your trade off for elbow grease
vs final appearance.

You could try scraping. Depending on the grain this can produce a very
smooth surface. Mahogany is famous for the wild grain. If you have grain
running in all directions, then forget scraping.

Dave Paine.
wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm using Behlen's and they say you *can* dilute it 1:4 but don't say
why you might want to -- is it just cost, because the cost of this oil
is going to be the least of my concerns.

They also recommend a 360 grit finish. I hadn't planned to go that
fine for mahoganey -- what do you suggest?

Thanks, I have no problem going to 360, if that's what it takes. I
applied over 60 grit just because that's what I had used to remove the
old finish and I wanted a quick look at what a tung oil finish was
like. Drying time won't be a problem so I'll use straight tung oil.

In article , Tyke wrote:

If you have grain
running in all directions, then forget scraping.


Why do you say that?

--
Life. Nature's way of keeping meat fresh. -- Dr. Who

That's the time TO scrape.

"Tyke" wrote in message
...

If you have grain
running in all directions, then forget scraping.

wrote:
Thanks, I have no problem going to 360, if that's what it takes. I
applied over 60 grit just because that's what I had used to remove the
old finish and I wanted a quick look at what a tung oil finish was
like. Drying time won't be a problem so I'll use straight tung oil.

Adding thinner doesn't affect the drying time of the oil...the thinner
evaporates long before the oil sets up. What it *does* do is thin
it...helps it penetrate, helps avoid too heavy a coat, etc.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Tyke wrote:
If you have grain
running in all directions, then forget scraping.

It's this some sort of a joke? If so, I don't get it.

dave

From some of my reading on here I suspect the Formby's and Minwax "tung
oil" aren't 100% tung oil -- nothing wrong with that but I want to go
with 100% tung oil.

Okay, I purchased a random orbit sander and went over one side of one
shelf with 60 grit followed by 100 and then 120 grit. This is already
about as smooth as the other side of the shelf -- making me think that
the room was originally sanded only to 150 grit. I've purchased 60,
100, 150, 240, 320, and 400 grit (and the sander came with one sheet of
120 grit). It will be interesting to see/feel the difference between
the current finish and the 400 grit finish.

My next question, I'm getting lots of very fine dust in/on the wood.
Is it okay to use water to get this off (after vacuuming) or do I use
paint thinner as someone suggested? Is a tack cloth (which I'll buy
tomorrow and have never seen) used last, or before the liquid?

Several posts have cautioned about the tack cloth useage as it COULD
contaminate the surface interfering with finish adherence. Shellac,
dewaxed, beyond shelf life has been suggested instead of off the shelf
tack cloth. Lint less cloth dipped in old shellac stored in zip lock
bag.

On 29 Nov 2005 19:10:04 -0800, wrote:

From some of my reading on here I suspect the Formby's and Minwax "tung
oil" aren't 100% tung oil -- nothing wrong with that but I want to go
with 100% tung oil.

Okay, I purchased a random orbit sander and went over one side of one
shelf with 60 grit followed by 100 and then 120 grit. This is already
about as smooth as the other side of the shelf -- making me think that
the room was originally sanded only to 150 grit. I've purchased 60,
100, 150, 240, 320, and 400 grit (and the sander came with one sheet of
120 grit). It will be interesting to see/feel the difference between
the current finish and the 400 grit finish.

My next question, I'm getting lots of very fine dust in/on the wood.
Is it okay to use water to get this off (after vacuuming) or do I use
paint thinner as someone suggested? Is a tack cloth (which I'll buy
tomorrow and have never seen) used last, or before the liquid?

So, if tackcloths are out and I don't want to make my own as you
describe, what about wiping off the wood with mineral spirits or
alcohol? Do these raise the grain and require light resanding after
use as water does?