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[email protected] September 5th 05 10:02 PM

Oils To Use On Cutting Boards? Which?
 
Besides using mineral oil, what other oils are food compatable oils
that can be used on cutting boards.

Mineral oil just doesn't seem to have any staying power.

Thanx in advance.


George September 5th 05 10:26 PM


wrote in message
oups.com...
Besides using mineral oil, what other oils are food compatable oils
that can be used on cutting boards.

Mineral oil just doesn't seem to have any staying power.


Nothing.

Walnut oil will cure, but it's really not super durable either. Will shed
water, though, along with bacteria and food drips.



Leon September 5th 05 10:32 PM


wrote in message
oups.com...
Besides using mineral oil, what other oils are food compatable oils
that can be used on cutting boards.

Mineral oil just doesn't seem to have any staying power.

Thanx in advance.


Natural oils from foods.



dadiOH September 5th 05 11:36 PM

wrote:
Besides using mineral oil, what other oils are food compatable oils
that can be used on cutting boards.


Any once cured....linseed, tung, etc.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at
http://mysite.verizon.net/xico



Bill D September 6th 05 12:00 AM

Good old common Linseed oil (from the flax plant) has never killed anyone.
A google will tell you all about its properties.

Cheers
Bill D



Edwin Pawlowski September 6th 05 12:37 AM


"George" George@least wrote in message

Nothing.


That has been my choice also. I have 30 year old boards that still look OK
(worn a bit of course) and still work.



Larry Jaques September 6th 05 01:31 AM

On Tue, 6 Sep 2005 11:00:16 +1200, the blithe spirit "Bill D"
clearly indicated:

Good old common Linseed oil (from the flax plant) has never killed anyone.
A google will tell you all about its properties.


Now warn him to avoid the boiled linseed oils which comprise 95% of
the shelf stock here (dunno 'bout NZ.) They can contain toxic heavy
metal driers.

-------------------------------
Iguana: The other green meat!
-------------------------------
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

Robatoy September 6th 05 05:10 AM

In article ,
"Leon" wrote:

wrote in message
oups.com...
Besides using mineral oil, what other oils are food compatable oils
that can be used on cutting boards.

Mineral oil just doesn't seem to have any staying power.

Thanx in advance.


Natural oils from foods.


but NOT peanut oil.... that **** can kill people. Rare, but it can
happen.

justme September 6th 05 06:33 AM

In article .com,
says...
Besides using mineral oil, what other oils are food compatable oils
that can be used on cutting boards.

Mineral oil just doesn't seem to have any staying power.

Thanx in advance.



Mix the mineral oil with paraffin wax. You may have to melt it a little
with a hot water bath, but it lasts a lot longer.

Andy September 6th 05 04:12 PM

Anything, once cured, should be non-toxic. However, anything that
cures can be cut through, chipped, etc. The whole point of using
mineral oil is that it does not cure, so you can't cut through it or
crack it or chip it - it just soaks into the wood and stays soft. I
haven't tried mixing mineral oil with paraffin, but it sounds good - if
thie mixture is thin enough (maybe applied warm?) for the wax to soak
into the wood, it should stay soft enough to avoid any cuts or chips.
But then again maple (or any good cutting-board wood) has small enough
pores that it shouldn't soak in very far anyway...
Andy


Leon September 6th 05 04:19 PM


"Robatoy" wrote in message
...

but NOT peanut oil.... that **** can kill people. Rare, but it can
happen.


What I meant to say was let the oil from the foods you cut up naturally soak
in to the block.



George September 6th 05 05:43 PM


"Andy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Anything, once cured, should be non-toxic. However, anything that
cures can be cut through, chipped, etc. The whole point of using
mineral oil is that it does not cure, so you can't cut through it or
crack it or chip it - it just soaks into the wood and stays soft. I
haven't tried mixing mineral oil with paraffin, but it sounds good - if
thie mixture is thin enough (maybe applied warm?) for the wax to soak
into the wood, it should stay soft enough to avoid any cuts or chips.
But then again maple (or any good cutting-board wood) has small enough
pores that it shouldn't soak in very far anyway...
Andy


Uh, Andy. What special property of mineral oil makes it flow any farther
into the wood than any other oil? What oil in your knowledge makes a film
that "chips?"

The words are lovely, but the ideas seem a bit out of line with reality.

An oil which has not cured is easily emulsified by use of detergent, BTW.



SonomaProducts.com September 6th 05 06:07 PM

Any food oil can putrify. Food oils also feed bacteria. The idea behind
mineral oil is to get into the pores before water or food oilds can do
so.


Dave W September 6th 05 06:08 PM

Actually, it is not that rare, about one percent of the population has the
peanut allergy. I am one of them. Fortunately, the allergen goes away in
the process of making peanut oil. Cold pressed oilwhich is not processed
beyond squeezing the peanuts, is highly toxic to people like me; it is
usually just found in health food stores.



George September 6th 05 09:17 PM


"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
oups.com...
Any food oil can putrify. Food oils also feed bacteria. The idea behind
mineral oil is to get into the pores before water or food oilds can do
so.


HUH? This is really interesting. What you want to do is lyse them or flush
the bacteria away. That's why you use detergent. Your theory would have
him oiling the board after every washing to displace other oils? Of course,
cell walls love oil, hate water as a rule, so you're giving them a good
place to keep from drying out in the mineral oil.

Try this experiment. Take your food oil, rub on all sides of a board, then
place it on a flat surface to protect the oil on one edge, leaving the rest
open to the air. After a week, use your nose to discover that oil in the
presence of ample oxygen does not go rancid. Oil with a lack of oxygen
does.



Robatoy September 6th 05 10:35 PM

In article ,
"Leon" wrote:

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...

but NOT peanut oil.... that **** can kill people. Rare, but it can
happen.


What I meant to say was let the oil from the foods you cut up naturally soak
in to the block.


I thought that's what you meant, Leon. I just can't help myself when it
comes to tossing in the Peanut allergy warning. A kid in my daughter's
class had that allergy. Nasty. His parent held an info meeting on the
topic.
I grew up eating meat from a butcher who did it all on a huge block of
whatever wood. This guy made everything by hand. It is his fault I love
sausages so much.
I'm pretty sure that's what the old-time butchers relied on. That and a
splash of bleach. That was, of course in the pre-bandsaw days when they
had to bust a joint with a cleaver... hard work.

randall emberg September 7th 05 12:14 AM

100 % Tung oil is also a food safe treatment and recommended for cutting
boards

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
oups.com...
Any food oil can putrify. Food oils also feed bacteria. The idea behind
mineral oil is to get into the pores before water or food oilds can do
so.




Bill D September 7th 05 12:57 AM

Excellent point Larry, I don't usually use oil with any additives so I guess
you could say I wasn't considering all alternatives of my advice. Thanks.

My wife actually takes linseed oil for health purposes (purchased from
health shop) so that also narrowed my thinking.

Best advice - no matter what the product, read the label carefully.

Cheers
Bill D


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 6 Sep 2005 11:00:16 +1200, the blithe spirit "Bill D"
clearly indicated:

Good old common Linseed oil (from the flax plant) has never killed anyone.
A google will tell you all about its properties.


Now warn him to avoid the boiled linseed oils which comprise 95% of
the shelf stock here (dunno 'bout NZ.) They can contain toxic heavy
metal driers.

-------------------------------
Iguana: The other green meat!
-------------------------------
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development




George September 8th 05 12:12 AM


"Australopithecus scobis" wrote in message
e...
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 15:19:16 +0000, Leon wrote:


"Robatoy" wrote in message
...

but NOT peanut oil.... that **** can kill people. Rare, but it can
happen.


What I meant to say was let the oil from the foods you cut up naturally
soak
in to the block.


You really don't want that to happen. Saturated fats will go rancid. Yuck.
Better to stuff the pores with something inert.


Butcher blocks when I had to use them were salted nightly. "Stuffing the
pores" with a liquid seems a bit far-fetched. Solid, like cured oil, maybe.



W Canaday September 8th 05 03:06 AM

On Mon, 05 Sep 2005 17:26:31 -0400, George wrote:


wrote in message
oups.com...
Besides using mineral oil, what other oils are food compatable oils
that can be used on cutting boards.

Mineral oil just doesn't seem to have any staying power.


Nothing.

Walnut oil will cure, but it's really not super durable either. Will shed
water, though, along with bacteria and food drips.


I use walnut oil on mine. My customers like the look and it is food safe
immediately (it IS a food).

While I let my boards cure for a month or so, it's a 'security blanket' to
use a food oil.

Bill


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