I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.

I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set consists
of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune the
cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on my
saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall between the
threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center hole on the
shims.

Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically. Maybe
there's a better way.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

You might try a thin coat of oil to help hold them in place as you
stack them up.

How about a bit of scotch tape around the arbor? Tom

Bill Leonhardt wrote:


Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically. Maybe
there's a better way.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt


I've got the same problem with the shims that came with the SD508 dado.
They fall into the grooves and get crushed.

They all are oily, BTW. Doesn't keep them in place.

any other suggestions guys short of using tape instead of the supplied
shims?

Dave

"tom" wrote in message
oups.com...
How about a bit of scotch tape around the arbor? Tom


If the fit between the arbor and the blade is decent, the scotch tape will
prevent you from mounting blades or chippers.

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
...

Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions?

I don't know if they are available separately or elsewhere, but the shims
that come with Forrest Dado set are magnetic. This works very well.

Bob

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
...
I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.

I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set consists
of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune
the cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on
my saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall
between the threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center
hole on the shims.

Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically.
Maybe there's a better way.

Spend a few more dollars and buy magnetic shims. Apply the shim to the
blade or chipper and then mount the blade or chipper. Forrest has them.

Leon wrote: If the fit between the arbor and the blade is decent, the
scotch tape will
prevent you from mounting blades or chippers.


It doesn't have to be a full wrap, but a bit on the topside when
mounting. And where you put your shims could be a factor, also. Tom

"tom" wrote in message
oups.com...
Leon wrote: If the fit between the arbor and the blade is decent, the
scotch tape will
prevent you from mounting blades or chippers.


It doesn't have to be a full wrap, but a bit on the topside when
mounting. And where you put your shims could be a factor, also. Tom


Still, a decent fit between the blade and arbor will prevent the blades from
going on if tape is in the way. I have to mount and dismount all of my
blades parallel to the arbor flange. If the blade is not very close to
parallel to the arbor flange it simply will not slide on or off.

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 10:40:49 -0400, Bill Leonhardt wrote:

I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.

I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set consists
of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune the
cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on my
saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall between the
threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center hole on the
shims.

Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically. Maybe
there's a better way.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt


www.leevalley.com Item 05J13.01 $6.95 US in my catalog

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 16:20:35 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
...
I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.

I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set consists
of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune
the cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on
my saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall
between the threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center
hole on the shims.

Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically.
Maybe there's a better way.

Spend a few more dollars and buy magnetic shims. Apply the shim to the
blade or chipper and then mount the blade or chipper. Forrest has them.

LOL, I'll bet they would cost more than the Dado set did (from Harbor
Freight).

Dave Hall

"Dave Hall" wrote in message
...

LOL, I'll bet they would cost more than the Dado set did (from Harbor
Freight).

That is a very good chance. LOL

"Ken Dibble" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 10:40:49 -0400, Bill Leonhardt wrote:

I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.

I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set
consists
of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune
the
cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on my
saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall between
the
threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center hole on the
shims.

Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically.
Maybe
there's a better way.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt


www.leevalley.com Item 05J13.01 $6.95 US in my catalog


Ken,

Have you used these shims? If so, are you happy with them?

The catalog page says they have a hole for a 5/8" arbor, but the slots look
smaller than the hole in the picture. Does that mean they slide between the
threads instead of over them? Do you find them easy to install/remove?

Thanks,

Bill

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
The catalog page says they have a hole for a 5/8" arbor, but the slots
look
smaller than the hole in the picture. Does that mean they slide between
the
threads instead of over them? Do you find them easy to install/remove?

My guess it that they twist a bit to allow fitting over a 5/8" arbour. It
certainly would make easier insertion than having to completely remove the
arbour nut every time you wanted to make an adjustment.

grease.

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
...
I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.

I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set consists
of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune
the
cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on my
saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall between
the
threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center hole on the
shims.

Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically.
Maybe
there's a better way.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

tom wrote:
How about a bit of scotch tape around the arbor? Tom

Oh for Pete's sake, center the shim on the blade
hole with a cone and tape it to the BLADE.

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 08:54:29 -0700, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

You might try a thin coat of oil to help hold them in place as you
stack them up.

I made up a set of paper shims (same dado set). I don't CARE what happens
to the center holes ... when they get too ratty to re-use, I'll trace and
cut a fresh set.

The oil sounds like a good idea.Should work even better for the paper
shims than the metal ones.

Paper doesn't weigh much so don't worry about the center hole being
somewhat eccentric. Regular notebook paper is about .003" thick. Index
cards / old file folders are somewhat thicker and another good choice.
The pages of a phone book are likely thinner. Use a mike or dial / vernier
caliper to check the thickness you actually have available. Try to be
consistent when you tighten the arbor nut.

Bill

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 18:36:00 -0400, Upscale wrote:

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
The catalog page says they have a hole for a 5/8" arbor, but the slots
look
smaller than the hole in the picture. Does that mean they slide between
the
threads instead of over them? Do you find them easy to install/remove?

My guess it that they twist a bit to allow fitting over a 5/8" arbour. It
certainly would make easier insertion than having to completely remove the
arbour nut every time you wanted to make an adjustment.

Correct. The only problem that I have encountered is making sure
that they don't get pushed into the arbor threads.

Ken

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...
tom wrote:
How about a bit of scotch tape around the arbor? Tom

Oh for Pete's sake, center the shim on the blade hole with a cone and tape
it to the BLADE.

Taping the shim to the blade makes the shim thicker, possibly 1/2 to twice
as thick. Tape will act as a shim.

Sounds like another possible use for shellac.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland