How do you rout for a miter slot?
 

In building a router table, the instructions specify laying out the
laminate on top and bottom of the bonded surface and then having you
rout out the hole for the router plate.

For the miter slot, which is better - (1) routing for the miter slot
first (taking into consideration the depth required for 'butting up' the
laminate against an installed miter slot, or (2) installing the laminate
first and routing out the groove for the miter slot?

Option (2) seems to the be usual approach, but doesn't that increase the
risk of minute chipping (where the laminate will be meeting the miter slot?

I was thinking that if I installed the miter slot first, then I could
install the laminate on both sides of the slot, having it butt up nice
and clean to the installed slot.

Any opinions? Thanks!

Jack

See if the pix link doesn't offer reasonable alternative, namely no
cutting, lots of benefits, including constant parallelism with fence.
______________________

http://www.patwarner.com/images/mitergage.jpg

No, I wouldn't cut the slot after laying the laminate. I would do the
slot, glue up the laminate, and then trim the laminate away from the
slot using a flush trim bit. You can get a low profile router bit
that is made for trimming away laminate from slots. This is what I did
with my router table.

"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
I was thinking that if I installed the miter slot first, then I could
install the laminate on both sides of the slot, having it butt up nice
and clean to the installed slot.

I'd probably rout the mitre slot first taking into account the thickness the
laminate I was installing to ensure a level fit. At the very least, if you
screw it up, you won't have wasted all the effort gluing the laminate and
then having to start over. :)

mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
In building a router table, the instructions specify laying out the
laminate on top and bottom of the bonded surface and then having you
rout out the hole for the router plate.

sounds right.





For the miter slot, which is better - (1) routing for the miter slot
first (taking into consideration the depth required for 'butting up' the
laminate against an installed miter slot, or (2) installing the laminate
first and routing out the groove for the miter slot?

why do you want to go cutting slots in your router table anyway?





Option (2) seems to the be usual approach, but doesn't that increase the
risk of minute chipping (where the laminate will be meeting the miter slot?

if you have to... :)

this seems to me to be the right approach. use a sharp carbide cutter,
either a straight router bit or dado blade in the table saw. if your
stuff is set up right, chipping shouldn't be a problem. this way, the
slot is clean (no lam glue overspray or drips to worry about) and the
depth is totally controllable (contact cement glueline can vary a few
thousandths, not to mention all of that measuring and adding... : )



I was thinking that if I installed the miter slot first, then I could
install the laminate on both sides of the slot, having it butt up nice
and clean to the installed slot.

generally standard practice with laminates is to trim after assembly.
but whatever floats your boat....




Any opinions? Thanks!

listen to pat warner.


Jack

Yeah ... I've been debating whether or not to cut miter slots into the
table. Using a sled provides better options and better control (so it
seems to me anyway - I'm no expert).

Jack

bridger wrote:

mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:

In building a router table, the instructions specify laying out the
laminate on top and bottom of the bonded surface and then having you
rout out the hole for the router plate.


sounds right.





For the miter slot, which is better - (1) routing for the miter slot
first (taking into consideration the depth required for 'butting up' the
laminate against an installed miter slot, or (2) installing the laminate
first and routing out the groove for the miter slot?


why do you want to go cutting slots in your router table anyway?





Option (2) seems to the be usual approach, but doesn't that increase the
risk of minute chipping (where the laminate will be meeting the miter slot?


if you have to... :)

this seems to me to be the right approach. use a sharp carbide cutter,
either a straight router bit or dado blade in the table saw. if your
stuff is set up right, chipping shouldn't be a problem. this way, the
slot is clean (no lam glue overspray or drips to worry about) and the
depth is totally controllable (contact cement glueline can vary a few
thousandths, not to mention all of that measuring and adding... : )



I was thinking that if I installed the miter slot first, then I could
install the laminate on both sides of the slot, having it butt up nice
and clean to the installed slot.


generally standard practice with laminates is to trim after assembly.
but whatever floats your boat....




Any opinions? Thanks!


listen to pat warner.


Jack

"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" wrote
in message ...
Yeah ... I've been debating whether or not to cut miter slots into the
table. Using a sled provides better options and better control (so it
seems to me anyway - I'm no expert).


Sled hell - any square block with a knob will do fine. Acts as an
anti-tearout backer, too.

You should see the Router Workshop boys work with this and fences adjusted
with hammer taps. Great work, easily done, no fuss.

Time is money.... buy one!


"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" wrote
in message ...
In building a router table, the instructions specify laying out the
laminate on top and bottom of the bonded surface and then having you
rout out the hole for the router plate.

For the miter slot, which is better - (1) routing for the miter slot
first (taking into consideration the depth required for 'butting up' the
laminate against an installed miter slot, or (2) installing the laminate
first and routing out the groove for the miter slot?

Option (2) seems to the be usual approach, but doesn't that increase the
risk of minute chipping (where the laminate will be meeting the miter
slot?

I was thinking that if I installed the miter slot first, then I could
install the laminate on both sides of the slot, having it butt up nice
and clean to the installed slot.

Any opinions? Thanks!

Jack

mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
In building a router table, the instructions specify laying out the
laminate on top and bottom of the bonded surface and then having you
rout out the hole for the router plate.

For the miter slot, which is better - (1) routing for the miter slot
first (taking into consideration the depth required for 'butting up' the
laminate against an installed miter slot, or (2) installing the laminate
first and routing out the groove for the miter slot?

Option (2) seems to the be usual approach, but doesn't that increase the
risk of minute chipping (where the laminate will be meeting the miter slot?

I was thinking that if I installed the miter slot first, then I could
install the laminate on both sides of the slot, having it butt up nice
and clean to the installed slot.

Any opinions? Thanks!

Jack



Number one; you aren't building a piano.

Number two; make a couple of passes with a router or run the top through
your TS IF you have a top notch dado blade. My SD508 leaves absolutely
NO VISIBLE chipping at all on any sheet goods. That's a $190 dado...

Applying the laminate after the miter slot is cut is just more work in
my opinion, but hey, it's your project. :)

Dave