QX - Curing Time for Watco Danish Oil?
 

Just finished a little box of curly maple and cherry for the daughter
- she announced a second grandboy is on the way, so I made her a
little gift.

Used Watco Danish oil for the first time. I generally go with BLO but
reading here that the darkening of BLO kills pretty maple figure
decided to try something else. It's been on for 36 hours and I just
rubbed it out with that grey plastic substitute for 000 steel wool
(ain't that stuff nice to use compared to the real thing!).

How long should I let the finish cure before waxing? Can says 72 hours
before overcoating with Urethane, etc, so I assume the same goes for
wax. That sound about right?

Regards.

Tom Banes wrote in
:

Just finished a little box of curly maple and cherry for the daughter
- she announced a second grandboy is on the way, so I made her a
little gift.

Used Watco Danish oil for the first time. I generally go with BLO but
reading here that the darkening of BLO kills pretty maple figure
decided to try something else. It's been on for 36 hours and I just
rubbed it out with that grey plastic substitute for 000 steel wool
(ain't that stuff nice to use compared to the real thing!).

How long should I let the finish cure before waxing? Can says 72 hours
before overcoating with Urethane, etc, so I assume the same goes for
wax. That sound about right?

Regards.


longer is better. Watco is essentially BLO with a drop of varnish-like
additive. Patience is a virtue, or so I'm told.

Post a pic on abpw?

Congrats on the new grandcritter.

Patriarch

On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 19:33:36 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:



longer is better. Watco is essentially BLO with a drop of varnish-like
additive. Patience is a virtue, or so I'm told.

Post a pic on abpw?


Patriarch:

Thanks - I'll wait a week or so. Like finishing a gunstock, slow is
better I guess.

Pic is now at

http://web2.airmail.net/xleanone/ind...20Box/box1.jpg

Regards.

Tom Banes wrote:
Just finished a little box of curly maple and cherry for the daughter
- she announced a second grandboy is on the way, so I made her a
little gift.

Used Watco Danish oil for the first time. I generally go with BLO but
reading here that the darkening of BLO kills pretty maple figure
decided to try something else. It's been on for 36 hours and I just
rubbed it out with that grey plastic substitute for 000 steel wool
(ain't that stuff nice to use compared to the real thing!).

How long should I let the finish cure before waxing? Can says 72 hours
before overcoating with Urethane, etc, so I assume the same goes for
wax. That sound about right?

Regards.

I would wait at least a week, unless you can set
it how in the hot sun, to put wax on. I just
finished a board with Watco and coated it with
Urethane after 24 hours. Did pretty much the same
with an oak table, oil --24 hours--dry sand, oil
--24 hours--wet sand (more like moist), dry for
24-48 hours, urethane-- 24 hrs --wet sand,
urethane --24 to 48 hours --wet sand (for however
many coats you want.

Note that I always add dryer to Watco and to
Urethane, to assure that it dries in a reasonable
time period.

Tom Banes wrote in
:

Patriarch:

Thanks - I'll wait a week or so. Like finishing a gunstock, slow is
better I guess.

Pic is now at

http://web2.airmail.net/xleanone/ind...20Box/box1.jpg


Nicely done! Should be a keepsake for a long time.

Patriarch

On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 17:56:34 -0500, Tom Banes
wrote:

Just finished a little box of curly maple and cherry for the daughter
- she announced a second grandboy is on the way, so I made her a
little gift.

Used Watco Danish oil for the first time. I generally go with BLO but
reading here that the darkening of BLO kills pretty maple figure
decided to try something else. It's been on for 36 hours and I just
rubbed it out with that grey plastic substitute for 000 steel wool
(ain't that stuff nice to use compared to the real thing!).

How long should I let the finish cure before waxing? Can says 72 hours
before overcoating with Urethane, etc, so I assume the same goes for
wax. That sound about right?

Regards.

Tom.. the grain on the top just sort of sums up WHY we work with wood...

We can do a lot of thing to wood, but none that can duplicate what nature does..
just beautiful wood and very nice work..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 08:36:06 -0700, mac davis
wrote:


Tom.. the grain on the top just sort of sums up WHY we work with wood...

We can do a lot of thing to wood, but none that can duplicate what nature does..
just beautiful wood and very nice work..


mac


Mac:

Thanks, I kinda liked the wood myself. As for the work, you wouldn't
believe the errors I covered up! Read my prior post on kickback
lesson. The box was supposed to be about 3/4" higher - just had to cut
off the gouged hunk and redesign on the fly.

Great fun.

At the same URL, one level up, directory Tray, is a nut tray I routed
out of a flitch - that is some really pretty wood. Even I couldn't
foul it up too badly. Nature will win if we just let her.

Regards.

Tom,
The nice thing about oil finishes is that the wood tells you when it
has had enough. The process I use with Watco Danish Oil is to coat,
leave for 30 minutes, coat for another 15 minutes and if there is any
residue - wipe off and let harden for 24 hours. When the wood is no
longer absorbing the oil, there will be a uniform coat of oil after
the first coat. Wipe off the residue and then let it harden for at
least a week before waxing.

I'm not a big fan of the gray synthetic mesh for finishing hardwood.
It may have the same coarseness as #000 steel wool but it doesn't have
the strength of steel wool. It doesn't seem to cut into the wood in
the same way as steel wool. I usually go to #0000 steel wool after the
3rd coat of oil but probably everyone on this newsgroup has their own
preferences.

TWS