Can anyone tell me about using electrolysis to remove rust from tools-I
recall once having read an article about online but can't find it
now...Thanks

"RDT" wrote in message
Can anyone tell me about using electrolysis to remove rust from tools-I
recall once having read an article about online but can't find it
now...Thanks


http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm


.... for starters, and one of possibly many. Also, IIRC, bridger posted an
informative post on rust removal a few years back that you may find archived
on Google.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/31/05

Google on electrolysis rust remov*

I've been doing a bunch of it. Works like a charm. Go to the pool
section at the borg for sodium carbonate. Get some tie-wire and some
scrap steel (rebar, flat-bar, anything ungalvanized) and then wire it
all together inside a plastic tub of needed size. I use a clear one to
make sure the tool doesn't touch the scrap steel.

Be careful if you're buying a battery charger, the new ones have
processors that won't work. You want an old one, or you'll have to go
to Radio Shack and do some EE.

Pick up some kerosene too. If you don't wipe them down with rust
protectant afterwords they'll rust again in a hurry. Good luck.
JP

there are several good sites on the web explaining the process.


Be careful if you're buying a battery charger, the new ones have
processors that won't work. You want an old one, or you'll have to go
to Radio Shack and do some EE.

I bought a new one with some kind of overcharging limiter on it and
found that out the hard way. I ended up using an old motorcycle
charger, which works fine, but slowly.
has anybody tried a computer power supply yet?

Bridger wrote: I ended up using an old motorcycle charger, which works fine, but slowly.

From what I've read you can actually do a "better job" using a custom
built power source. There's a web page out there that gives you the
instructions. I'm not sure how it's better, but I think he said that
it converted more rust into metal or something like that. A rusty old
battery charger has worked fine for me.

JP

Here's a fellow WW who restores hand planes and uses the process.
http://www.planethart.com/subpages.a...lane-rehab.htm

"RDT" wrote in message
nk.net...
Can anyone tell me about using electrolysis to remove rust from tools-I
recall once having read an article about online but can't find it
now...Thanks

Thanks for the link C&M. I've noticed that I get areas of black that
won't really come off at all, no matter the length of time I leave them
in the bath. Here's the link I was looking for earlier, which shows
how to build your power source...

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

I might need to build one since I tried derusting my rusty old battery
charger. I hooked the positive lead to my anode , the negative back to
the rusty casing itself, and tossed the lot into my tank. Results not
pretty.

JP
**************
Darwinian.

've noticed that I get areas of black that
won't really come off at all, no matter the length of time I leave them
in the bath.



those areas may have oil on them, keeping the water from getting to the
metal. try a degreaser.

has anybody tried a computer power supply yet?

I've used a 200A PSU from a Vax, but that was for rather a large job
(canal narrowboat)

In general, avoid computer PSUs. They're switch modes, so they'll go
into grumpy shutdown modes if you don't pull enough current from them.
They're also far too powerful for wooddorking restoration, so they're
too inclined to try and kill you.

You're working with both wet hands in a conductive electrolyte here. I
know it's only a few volts, but this is fecking dangerous and really
could spoil your day - a cross-chest belt is no fun at all.

If you can't find an old battery charger, just find a 12V transformer
with a couple of amps output and a nice big bridge rectifier. The
electronics is trivial, so long as you can make a decent solder joint
and work on mains voltages with adequate insulated workmanship to avoid
killing yourself.

There are also some "digital camera PSUs" around - wall-warts with 2A
DC at 12V (more current than the typical wall-wart). These should work
fine.

vax had a lot of machinery in it. I bet that sucker made the rust
boil....

the PC power supplies I'm familliar with, and have some potential
donors hanging about, have 5v and 12v output leads on them. I was
figuring on using one of the 12v leads, but hadn't really thought about
it more than that.

Will do.
JP