Polyurethane over laquer?
 

I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to give
a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet drinks. Any
ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would bond to a laquer
finish

Bubba wrote:

I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to give
a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet drinks. Any
ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would bond to a laquer
finish


Not very well over the long term. How's 'bout scuffing the lacquer,
apply dewaxed shellac, and then the (ugh) poly?

dave

The "(ugh) poly" tells me something. I'm open to ideas. What is the
objection to poly? What are viable alternatives. The surface will be used
as a tray and from time to time will be exposed to a variety of liquids
including alcohol.


"David" wrote in message
...
Bubba wrote:

I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to
give a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet
drinks. Any ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would
bond to a laquer finish
Not very well over the long term. How's 'bout scuffing the lacquer, apply
dewaxed shellac, and then the (ugh) poly?

dave

Bubba wrote:
The "(ugh) poly" tells me something. I'm open to ideas. What is the
objection to poly? What are viable alternatives. The surface will be used
as a tray and from time to time will be exposed to a variety of liquids
including alcohol.


"David" wrote in message
...

Bubba wrote:


I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to
give a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet
drinks. Any ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would
bond to a laquer finish

Not very well over the long term. How's 'bout scuffing the lacquer, apply
dewaxed shellac, and then the (ugh) poly?

dave



The "ugh" was for the application; not for the results. Some guys will
tell you poly looks bad. I don't think that's true unless you pile it
on. But for application, I prefer spraying water bornes. They can be
recoated in under 40 minutes and don't stick to everything around the
spray area. Brushing poly often results in bubbles and it dries too
slowly for me. Thin the poly to reduce bubbles. Spraying it makes on
heck of a mess due to the sticky residue of overspray. Dust can settle
on a slow drying finish like poly. I can't recall seeing any
appreciable dust nibs on my water borne finishes. But the poly is gonna
be more water resistant than WB even with Crosslinker added so I can
appreciate why you'd choose poly. I've got a poly'd desktop that is
softer (after more than a year after the finish was applied) than
WB/Crosslinker that has set for a couple of weeks, BUT the poly does
better on the water torture test...

Dave

I've sprayed WB Varathane with sat results. Have you tried it?

On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 15:01:44 -0700, David wrote:

Bubba wrote:
The "(ugh) poly" tells me something. I'm open to ideas. What is the
objection to poly? What are viable alternatives. The surface will be used
as a tray and from time to time will be exposed to a variety of liquids
including alcohol.


"David" wrote in message
...

Bubba wrote:


I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to
give a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet
drinks. Any ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would
bond to a laquer finish

Not very well over the long term. How's 'bout scuffing the lacquer, apply
dewaxed shellac, and then the (ugh) poly?

dave



The "ugh" was for the application; not for the results. Some guys will
tell you poly looks bad. I don't think that's true unless you pile it
on. But for application, I prefer spraying water bornes. They can be
recoated in under 40 minutes and don't stick to everything around the
spray area. Brushing poly often results in bubbles and it dries too
slowly for me. Thin the poly to reduce bubbles. Spraying it makes on
heck of a mess due to the sticky residue of overspray. Dust can settle
on a slow drying finish like poly. I can't recall seeing any
appreciable dust nibs on my water borne finishes. But the poly is gonna
be more water resistant than WB even with Crosslinker added so I can
appreciate why you'd choose poly. I've got a poly'd desktop that is
softer (after more than a year after the finish was applied) than
WB/Crosslinker that has set for a couple of weeks, BUT the poly does
better on the water torture test...

Dave

nospambob wrote:

I've sprayed WB Varathane with sat results. Have you tried it?

On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 15:01:44 -0700, David wrote:


Bubba wrote:

The "(ugh) poly" tells me something. I'm open to ideas. What is the
objection to poly? What are viable alternatives. The surface will be used
as a tray and from time to time will be exposed to a variety of liquids
including alcohol.


"David" wrote in message
...


Bubba wrote:



I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to
give a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet
drinks. Any ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would
bond to a laquer finish

Not very well over the long term. How's 'bout scuffing the lacquer, apply
dewaxed shellac, and then the (ugh) poly?

dave



The "ugh" was for the application; not for the results. Some guys will
tell you poly looks bad. I don't think that's true unless you pile it
on. But for application, I prefer spraying water bornes. They can be
recoated in under 40 minutes and don't stick to everything around the
spray area. Brushing poly often results in bubbles and it dries too
slowly for me. Thin the poly to reduce bubbles. Spraying it makes on
heck of a mess due to the sticky residue of overspray. Dust can settle
on a slow drying finish like poly. I can't recall seeing any
appreciable dust nibs on my water borne finishes. But the poly is gonna
be more water resistant than WB even with Crosslinker added so I can
appreciate why you'd choose poly. I've got a poly'd desktop that is
softer (after more than a year after the finish was applied) than
WB/Crosslinker that has set for a couple of weeks, BUT the poly does
better on the water torture test...

Dave


Nope, haven't tried any current Varathane products since I didn't like
their god-awfully slow drying Varathanes back in the 70's. Not that a
WB would be slow drying, but I tend to avoid certain brands like the
plague, such as Minwhacks and others that I've had less than stellar
results with. sometimes my biggest issue is not the final results, but
the odor, slow drying, or other bugaboo.

Dave

Dave

My history with Flecto Varathane goes back to the 50s and working with
oil based shtuff was the norm. Several tries of the upstart WB
products certainly didn't convince me they were even headed in the
right direction. Update to today, all is well! Oil stuff is phasing
out of the cabinet being replaced with WB stuff including WB lacquer.
Get a small can of Varathane Diamond (believe that's the WB) gloss and
TRY it, you might be pleasantly pleased!

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 08:48:12 -0700, David wrote:

nospambob wrote:

I've sprayed WB Varathane with sat results. Have you tried it?

On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 15:01:44 -0700, David wrote:


Bubba wrote:

The "(ugh) poly" tells me something. I'm open to ideas. What is the
objection to poly? What are viable alternatives. The surface will be used
as a tray and from time to time will be exposed to a variety of liquids
including alcohol.


"David" wrote in message
...


Bubba wrote:



I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to
give a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet
drinks. Any ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would
bond to a laquer finish

Not very well over the long term. How's 'bout scuffing the lacquer, apply
dewaxed shellac, and then the (ugh) poly?

dave



The "ugh" was for the application; not for the results. Some guys will
tell you poly looks bad. I don't think that's true unless you pile it
on. But for application, I prefer spraying water bornes. They can be
recoated in under 40 minutes and don't stick to everything around the
spray area. Brushing poly often results in bubbles and it dries too
slowly for me. Thin the poly to reduce bubbles. Spraying it makes on
heck of a mess due to the sticky residue of overspray. Dust can settle
on a slow drying finish like poly. I can't recall seeing any
appreciable dust nibs on my water borne finishes. But the poly is gonna
be more water resistant than WB even with Crosslinker added so I can
appreciate why you'd choose poly. I've got a poly'd desktop that is
softer (after more than a year after the finish was applied) than
WB/Crosslinker that has set for a couple of weeks, BUT the poly does
better on the water torture test...

Dave


Nope, haven't tried any current Varathane products since I didn't like
their god-awfully slow drying Varathanes back in the 70's. Not that a
WB would be slow drying, but I tend to avoid certain brands like the
plague, such as Minwhacks and others that I've had less than stellar
results with. sometimes my biggest issue is not the final results, but
the odor, slow drying, or other bugaboo.

Dave

Dave

nospambob wrote:
My history with Flecto Varathane goes back to the 50s and working with
oil based shtuff was the norm. Several tries of the upstart WB
products certainly didn't convince me they were even headed in the
right direction. Update to today, all is well! Oil stuff is phasing
out of the cabinet being replaced with WB stuff including WB lacquer.
Get a small can of Varathane Diamond (believe that's the WB) gloss and
TRY it, you might be pleasantly pleased!

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 08:48:12 -0700, David wrote:


nospambob wrote:




I was with you right up to the part about the "gloss". :) I made the
mistake of applying gloss to some fluted door trim and rosettes. I had
to recoat with semi and even that was a tad shinier than I like.
Satin's more my pleasure. But as far as the product goes, I'll concede
that Diamond may be a whole nuther ball game than their other stuff I've
used in years past.

Dave



Dave

Why not learn to apply polyurethane and skip the lacquer? Yes, it will
take longer to cure increasing the likelihood of dust nibs but the sandwich
you are asking about is asking for trouble.

How much water are you talking about? Lacquer has moderate water and
water vapor resistance, poly has pretty good resistance.

Good Luck.

"Bubba" wrote in message
. ..
I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to
give
a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet drinks.
Any
ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would bond to a
laquer
finish

I prefer the clear view that gloss provides without the flatting
ingredient and it can be toned down with abrasive pads to whatever
sheen desired.

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 12:56:00 -0700, David wrote:

nospambob wrote:
My history with Flecto Varathane goes back to the 50s and working with
oil based shtuff was the norm. Several tries of the upstart WB
products certainly didn't convince me they were even headed in the
right direction. Update to today, all is well! Oil stuff is phasing
out of the cabinet being replaced with WB stuff including WB lacquer.
Get a small can of Varathane Diamond (believe that's the WB) gloss and
TRY it, you might be pleasantly pleased!

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 08:48:12 -0700, David wrote:


nospambob wrote:




I was with you right up to the part about the "gloss". :) I made the
mistake of applying gloss to some fluted door trim and rosettes. I had
to recoat with semi and even that was a tad shinier than I like.
Satin's more my pleasure. But as far as the product goes, I'll concede
that Diamond may be a whole nuther ball game than their other stuff I've
used in years past.

Dave



Dave

nospambob wrote:

I prefer the clear view that gloss provides without the flatting
ingredient and it can be toned down with abrasive pads to whatever
sheen desired.

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 12:56:00 -0700, David wrote:


nospambob wrote:

My history with Flecto Varathane goes back to the 50s and working with
oil based shtuff was the norm. Several tries of the upstart WB
products certainly didn't convince me they were even headed in the
right direction. Update to today, all is well! Oil stuff is phasing
out of the cabinet being replaced with WB stuff including WB lacquer.
Get a small can of Varathane Diamond (believe that's the WB) gloss and
TRY it, you might be pleasantly pleased!

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 08:48:12 -0700, David wrote:



nospambob wrote:




I was with you right up to the part about the "gloss". :) I made the
mistake of applying gloss to some fluted door trim and rosettes. I had
to recoat with semi and even that was a tad shinier than I like.
Satin's more my pleasure. But as far as the product goes, I'll concede
that Diamond may be a whole nuther ball game than their other stuff I've
used in years past.

Dave



Dave


for flat surfaces I agree (unless you use Enduro products, which don't
obscure the wood when you choose the flattened sheens), but for items
with lots of difficult to sand nooks and crannies, trying to tame the
gloss after the finish is applied can be a PITA.

Dave

Point taken, thanks.

On Fri, 22 Jul 2005 08:20:21 -0700, David wrote:

for flat surfaces I agree (unless you use Enduro products, which don't
obscure the wood when you choose the flattened sheens), but for items
with lots of difficult to sand nooks and crannies, trying to tame the
gloss after the finish is applied can be a PITA.

Dave