I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
EdG

BIC

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

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"EdG" wrote in message
ups.com...
I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
EdG

EdG wrote:
I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
EdG

The gold, or silver paint pens tend to write on most surfaces, I don't
think they would be much chop on a waxed surface though ??
As you have a burning tool, use a fine round tip and use it as a pen. I
have done this a few times and it works pretty good. (Before I finish
the item)
All the best
John

How should I sign my pieces?

Use a pencil, it won't fade with time like ink will. Best bet would be
on the back or bottom where you won't put a stain (or might not put a
stain, depends on style I guess). If you want to protect it I suppose
you could put a finish over it, but that's up to you. And don't worry
about it being easily erased, if someone wanted to do that they could
also sand/scrape anything else you did to sign it so what's the
difference, right?

Mike

I've seen web articles on the photo-etching that can be done, on a piece of
brass (I think). Then that gets cut out, and embedded in the furniture. I
thought that looked terribly cool and professional.

I think there was an article in a Wood Magazine on doing exactly that.

Clint

"EdG" wrote in message
ups.com...
I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
EdG

"EdG" wrote in message
ups.com...
I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
EdG

Sharpie

Or use a soldering iron to burn it.

Where I work we have literally dozens of Thomas Moser pieces, and each one
is signed and dated on the bottom by the person that assembled it. It looks
to me like they used a fine-point sharpie or similar pen. All of the pieces
are cherry, if that means much. Most of them are about 5-6 years old and
the writing looks great - all on the undersides of chair seats/table tops
etc.

Mike

"EdG" wrote in message
ups.com...
I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
EdG

"Mike in Idaho" wrote in message
ups.com...
How should I sign my pieces?

Use a pencil, it won't fade with time like ink will. Best bet would be
on the back or bottom where you won't put a stain (or might not put a
stain, depends on style I guess). If you want to protect it I suppose
you could put a finish over it, but that's up to you. And don't worry
about it being easily erased, if someone wanted to do that they could
also sand/scrape anything else you did to sign it so what's the
difference, right?

Mike


I didn't see the original post, but if the question is asking how one might
sign their work, I use an old wood burning pen and put my initials and date
in an inconspicuous corner. Before I had the wood burning pen, I used a
small soldering iron. Making curved letters with a straight tip is
sometimes a challange, but light passes with the tip helps. In some woods,
the tip will readily want to sink in "with the grain" and take forever to
mark "accross the grain".

Bill Leonhardt

Mike in Mystic wrote:
Where I work we have literally dozens of Thomas Moser pieces, and each one
is signed and dated on the bottom by the person that assembled it. It looks
to me like they used a fine-point sharpie or similar pen. All of the pieces
are cherry, if that means much. Most of them are about 5-6 years old and
the writing looks great - all on the undersides of chair seats/table tops
etc.

Just remember that Sharpie ink is not 100% alcohol proof. If shellac is
applied directly over the ink, it may blur it. It would probably help
if a light dusting of shellac or lacquer was the first coat over the ink.

I sign all of mine in black sharpie, and finish over it, (oil/poly).



"EdG" wrote in message
ups.com...
I would like to sign and date the pieces I make. I have a burning tool
but it does not have a date attachment and seems a little impersonal.
Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
surfaces? I would like to be able to actually write on the piece.
EdG

I use exactly that a burning tool with a fine point tip. I can write
just like it were a piece of paper under the tool. The only problem is
that the tip although fine still burns a line about the thickness of a
piece of yarn.

Roy

yep I sign and date all pieces and if its for someone special ill write a
little note too. I do this in pencil and before I add any finish, since all
I use are clear finishes it has worked out well.
--
Dominic Palazzola
www.dominicswoodshop.com
"ROYNEU" wrote in message
oups.com...
I use exactly that a burning tool with a fine point tip. I can write
just like it were a piece of paper under the tool. The only problem is
that the tip although fine still burns a line about the thickness of a
piece of yarn.

Roy

I have used lazer engraving on a few small pieces. Very sharp and clean,
but can only be done on flat pieces in most cases.
Glenn

On 14 Jul 2005 08:07:03 -0700, "EdG" wrote:

Does anyone know of a pen/Ink that will write permanently on finished
surfaces?

Japanese calligraphy pens - cheap plastic ones from Sakura or similar
(any good stationer). They use archival-grade pigment based inks and
will last as long as necessary. They're also resistant to bleeding, if
you apply most solvents over them.

Chris Becksvoort (?) glues one of that year's nickels in place.

Mike in Idaho wrote:
How should I sign my pieces?

Use a pencil, it won't fade with time like ink will. Best bet would
be on the back or bottom where you won't put a stain (or might not
put a stain, depends on style I guess). If you want to protect it I
suppose you could put a finish over it, but that's up to you. And
don't worry about it being easily erased, if someone wanted to do
that they could also sand/scrape anything else you did to sign it so
what's the difference, right?

Mike

There is something classic about signing with pencil and I see it in museum
pieces on folkart and other handmade pieces.

Josie

B a r r y wrote in
:

Mike in Mystic wrote:
Where I work we have literally dozens of Thomas Moser pieces, and
each one is signed and dated on the bottom by the person that
assembled it. It looks to me like they used a fine-point sharpie or
similar pen. All of the pieces are cherry, if that means much. Most
of them are about 5-6 years old and the writing looks great - all on
the undersides of chair seats/table tops etc.

Just remember that Sharpie ink is not 100% alcohol proof. If shellac
is applied directly over the ink, it may blur it. It would probably
help if a light dusting of shellac or lacquer was the first coat over
the ink.

Ditto this. I sign with a fine point Sharpie, then spray it lightly with a
coat of lacquer to seal it. Trying to put shellac over it without a
barrier coat will dissolve the ink.

Clint wrote:

I've seen web articles on the photo-etching that can be done, on a piece
of
brass (I think). Then that gets cut out, and embedded in the furniture.
I thought that looked terribly cool and professional.

You could draw on a piece of brass with a Sharpie and then dunk it in some
ferric chloride from Radio Shack for awhile to etch it.

I've just been signing my stuff with a Sharpie. Careful not to shellac over
it. DAMHIKT. (Sharpie dissolves in alcohol...) I've got stuff I did 10
years ago that's still crystal clear. I don't go back further than 10
years in woodworking, so I can't say how it will look in 50.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

You might try printing small labels with a laser printer then attaching
them by pasting them on using the last layer of finish (if you put the
label on with first coat, you risk sanding through it). Since the toner is
actually tiny beads of plastic that are fused together, it won't be
affected by solvents (well, none that won't attack the wood too..). You
can scan in signatures and logos and encorporate them into a design using
Word or Open Office. If you can find the right kind of paper for the
finish, the paper becomes almost transparent.