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Ipe decking questions
There seems to be some, but not a lot of ipe data already on this
newsgroup. I'm preparing to have a ~500 ft^2 deck replaced using 1x6 ipe (the old deck was 2x6 cedar). Because there is almost no local experience using ipe I've had to spec out everything myself to decking contractors. I think I have most of the topics covered (anchorseal, ss fasteners, carbide teeth on saws). I'd really appreciate if anyone could provide their suggestions on: 1.DRILLING: What is the optimal drill type for drilling & counterboring for 3/8" plugs? My current ideas a a. drilling two separate holes: 3/8" carbide forstner bit for the plugs and 3/16" carbide brad tipped for the screws or b. HSS drill bit/countersink/counter bore kit from Lee Valley Any recommendations on material/drill type/ease of sharpening? 2. My existing deck is 25 years old. The framing is 2x10 treated @ 16" centers and upon inspection it looks very sound- no rot/soft spots. I'm not sure how to evaluate how many years may be left in it. Of course, I don't want to put a 40 year deck on a frame with 10-15 years left on it. Does anyone have real experience with life expectancy of 1980 treated lumber vs. today's treated lumber? These joists look a lot straighter than what I've seen lately at Home Depot. Cost to reframe is ~$2500 using 2x8's. Any and all advice from experienced ipe users is welcomed! Thank you. |
wrote in message oups.com... There seems to be some, but not a lot of ipe data already on this newsgroup. I'm preparing to have a ~500 ft^2 deck replaced using 1x6 ipe (the old deck was 2x6 cedar). Because there is almost no local experience using ipe I've had to spec out everything myself to decking contractors. I think I have most of the topics covered (anchorseal, ss fasteners, carbide teeth on saws). I'd really appreciate if anyone could provide their suggestions on: 1.DRILLING: What is the optimal drill type for drilling & counterboring for 3/8" plugs? My current ideas a a. drilling two separate holes: 3/8" carbide forstner bit for the plugs and 3/16" carbide brad tipped for the screws or b. HSS drill bit/countersink/counter bore kit from Lee Valley Any recommendations on material/drill type/ease of sharpening? HSS combo bit and countersink would be the way to go. It will take half the time and will be cheaper to replace as you wear the bit out. Drilling really goes easily on Ipe. Use sharp carvbide Blades and cutting and sand the edges of all the cuts. |
wrote in message 1.DRILLING: What is the optimal drill type for drilling & counterboring for 3/8" plugs? My current ideas a a. drilling two separate holes: 3/8" carbide forstner bit for the plugs and 3/16" carbide brad tipped for the screws or I use either a forstner or brad point for the plug hole, then use the approriate sized drill for the screw. I'd also use stainless screws with square drive from McFeelys. 2. My existing deck is 25 years old. The framing is 2x10 treated @ 16" centers and upon inspection it looks very sound- no rot/soft spots. I'm not sure how to evaluate how many years may be left in it. Of course, I don't want to put a 40 year deck on a frame with 10-15 years left on it. I'm thinking of doing the same thing on my deck in a year or so. The structure is very sound the deck boards are getting crappy looking. Yes, I'm going to leave the structure as it. It is sound and will probably last longer than me. It dos not get the abuse that the horizintal surfaces get from sun, snow, etc. I like mahogany with Penofin oil finish but iwll consider Ipe also. This year it is just getting a coat of stain to prolong it. -- Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/. |
There seems to be some, but not a lot of ipe data already on this
newsgroup. I'm preparing to have a ~500 ft^2 deck replaced using 1x6 ipe (the old deck was 2x6 cedar). Because there is almost no local experience using ipe I've had to spec out everything myself to decking contractors. I think I have most of the topics covered (anchorseal, ss fasteners, carbide teeth on saws). I'd really appreciate if anyone could provide their suggestions on: 500 Feet squared is 500' X 500', that is one big deck. Do you mean 500 sqft? 1.DRILLING: What is the optimal drill type for drilling & counterboring for 3/8" plugs? My current ideas a a. drilling two separate holes: 3/8" carbide forstner bit for the plugs and 3/16" carbide brad tipped for the screws or b. HSS drill bit/countersink/counter bore kit from Lee Valley Any recommendations on material/drill type/ease of sharpening? I recommend the inexpensive HSS drill-countersink combo type. Buy a bunch of them and throw them out as they become too dull to use. Drilling the same hole twice is a huge waste of time, especially when you are talking about several thousand holes. Buying expensive ones and trying to resharpen them is also more time and hassle than it's worth. 2. My existing deck is 25 years old. The framing is 2x10 treated @ 16" centers and upon inspection it looks very sound- no rot/soft spots. I'm not sure how to evaluate how many years may be left in it. Of course, I don't want to put a 40 year deck on a frame with 10-15 years left on it. Does anyone have real experience with life expectancy of 1980 treated lumber vs. today's treated lumber? These joists look a lot straighter than what I've seen lately at Home Depot. Cost to reframe is ~$2500 using 2x8's. Any and all advice from experienced ipe users is welcomed! Thank you. |
I just finished a small project working with Ipe for a client. While
most of the troubles I had won't apply to you, I will warn that I will most likely never use the stuff again. It is by far the hardest, densest, and foul material I have ever worked with. Two router bits broken, half a dozen drill bits, and I need to replace or sharpen every blade that touched the stuff. Maybe I was doing something wrong, but I don't think so Andrew |
In article ,
Rumpy wrote: There seems to be some, but not a lot of ipe data already on this newsgroup. I'm preparing to have a ~500 ft^2 deck replaced using 1x6 ipe (the old deck was 2x6 cedar). Because there is almost no local experience using ipe I've had to spec out everything myself to decking contractors. I think I have most of the topics covered (anchorseal, ss fasteners, carbide teeth on saws). I'd really appreciate if anyone could provide their suggestions on: 500 Feet squared is 500' X 500', that is one big deck. Do you mean 500 sqft? 25 ft * 20 ft == 25*20 ft*ft == 500 ft^2 ft^2 _is_ "square foot" ft^3 is "cubic foot" But, I figure you know all that, and are just jerking his chain. :) |
Where I come from, square feet and feet squared mean two different things.
500' X 500' is 500 feet squared, 25' X 20' is 500 square feet. 10^2 is 100, not the sum of 2 X 5, but I may be more of a math nerd than a contractor, so perhaps ft^2 does equate to sqft 'round here. "Robert Bonomi" wrote in message ... In article , Rumpy wrote: There seems to be some, but not a lot of ipe data already on this newsgroup. I'm preparing to have a ~500 ft^2 deck replaced using 1x6 ipe (the old deck was 2x6 cedar). Because there is almost no local experience using ipe I've had to spec out everything myself to decking contractors. I think I have most of the topics covered (anchorseal, ss fasteners, carbide teeth on saws). I'd really appreciate if anyone could provide their suggestions on: 500 Feet squared is 500' X 500', that is one big deck. Do you mean 500 sqft? 25 ft * 20 ft == 25*20 ft*ft == 500 ft^2 ft^2 _is_ "square foot" ft^3 is "cubic foot" But, I figure you know all that, and are just jerking his chain. :) |
"Rumpy" writes:
Where I come from, square feet and feet squared mean two different things. Well, square feet a prebably better to walk with than crooked ones, but ft^2 and sqft *are* synonyms. 500' X 500' is 500 feet squared, yes 25' X 20' is 500 square feet. 10^2 is 100, yes. But: 500 ft^2 is not the same as (500 ft)^2, as the exponentiation binds stronger then the multiplication, as in 3*10^2=300 and *not* 900... not the sum of 2 X 5, but I may be more of a math nerd .... but confusing operator precedence rules. -- Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869 Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23 |
In article ,
Rumpy wrote: Where I come from, square feet and feet squared mean two different things. 500' X 500' is 500 feet squared, 25' X 20' is 500 square feet. 10^2 is 100, Nit pick: There is no such thing as "500 feet squared" it is "500 feet square". Without the trailing 'd'. not the sum of 2 X 5, but I may be more of a math nerd than a contractor, so perhaps ft^2 does equate to sqft 'round here. If you _were_ a real math nerd, you'd know how wrong you are. grin ft^2 is _universally_ understood in scientific and engineering circles to mean 'square feet'. When doing math involving terms with 'units' attached, the convention is that you group the 'pure arithmetic' quantities first, and the consolidate the 'units separately. and perform the indicated operations on each part. thus "500 ft X 500 ft" is "500*500 ft*ft", or 250000 ft^2 (and read as "2500 square feet.") an exponent in the 'units' does *NOT* apply to the 'arithmetic quantity' part of the expression. This holds whether you are doing 'simple' things like distance/time = velocity, or messy stuff which could involve terms with units like "newton meters/sec^2" "Robert Bonomi" wrote in message ... In article , Rumpy wrote: There seems to be some, but not a lot of ipe data already on this newsgroup. I'm preparing to have a ~500 ft^2 deck replaced using 1x6 ipe (the old deck was 2x6 cedar). Because there is almost no local experience using ipe I've had to spec out everything myself to decking contractors. I think I have most of the topics covered (anchorseal, ss fasteners, carbide teeth on saws). I'd really appreciate if anyone could provide their suggestions on: 500 Feet squared is 500' X 500', that is one big deck. Do you mean 500 sqft? 25 ft * 20 ft == 25*20 ft*ft == 500 ft^2 ft^2 _is_ "square foot" ft^3 is "cubic foot" But, I figure you know all that, and are just jerking his chain. :) |
"Tattooed and Dusty" wrote in message oups.com... I just finished a small project working with Ipe for a client. While most of the troubles I had won't apply to you, I will warn that I will most likely never use the stuff again. It is by far the hardest, densest, and foul material I have ever worked with. Two router bits broken, half a dozen drill bits, and I need to replace or sharpen every blade that touched the stuff. Maybe I was doing something wrong, but I don't think so While Ipe is about 3 times harder than Oak I think you may want to use better blades and bits. LOL. I literally have cut up, planed, milled 3/8" through slots, and beveled probably thousands of pieces of Ipe over and over in a production setting in the past 4 years and have only had my WWII resharpened 1 time and have only replaced 1 router bit. I actually got better mileage using a 3/8" HSS end mill bit over a 3/8" carbide router bit. |
Well, I stand corrected, but I am a bit curios now. If it written as
(500ft)^2 would it then be what I was mistakenly thinking? Either way, thanks for setting me straight on this point. "Robert Bonomi" wrote in message ... In article , Rumpy wrote: Where I come from, square feet and feet squared mean two different things. 500' X 500' is 500 feet squared, 25' X 20' is 500 square feet. 10^2 is 100, Nit pick: There is no such thing as "500 feet squared" it is "500 feet square". Without the trailing 'd'. not the sum of 2 X 5, but I may be more of a math nerd than a contractor, so perhaps ft^2 does equate to sqft 'round here. If you _were_ a real math nerd, you'd know how wrong you are. grin ft^2 is _universally_ understood in scientific and engineering circles to mean 'square feet'. When doing math involving terms with 'units' attached, the convention is that you group the 'pure arithmetic' quantities first, and the consolidate the 'units separately. and perform the indicated operations on each part. thus "500 ft X 500 ft" is "500*500 ft*ft", or 250000 ft^2 (and read as "2500 square feet.") an exponent in the 'units' does *NOT* apply to the 'arithmetic quantity' part of the expression. This holds whether you are doing 'simple' things like distance/time = velocity, or messy stuff which could involve terms with units like "newton meters/sec^2" "Robert Bonomi" wrote in message ... In article , Rumpy wrote: There seems to be some, but not a lot of ipe data already on this newsgroup. I'm preparing to have a ~500 ft^2 deck replaced using 1x6 ipe (the old deck was 2x6 cedar). Because there is almost no local experience using ipe I've had to spec out everything myself to decking contractors. I think I have most of the topics covered (anchorseal, ss fasteners, carbide teeth on saws). I'd really appreciate if anyone could provide their suggestions on: 500 Feet squared is 500' X 500', that is one big deck. Do you mean 500 sqft? 25 ft * 20 ft == 25*20 ft*ft == 500 ft^2 ft^2 _is_ "square foot" ft^3 is "cubic foot" But, I figure you know all that, and are just jerking his chain. :) |
"Rumpy" wrote in message
... Well, I stand corrected, but I am a bit curios now. If it written as (500ft)^2 would it then be what I was mistakenly thinking? yes. -j |
In article , J wrote:
"Rumpy" wrote in message ... Well, I stand corrected, but I am a bit curios now. If it written as (500ft)^2 would it then be what I was mistakenly thinking? yes. yes^2 *snicker* |
HSS combo bit and countersink would be the way to go. It will take half the time and will be cheaper to replace as you wear the bit out. Drilling really goes easily on Ipe. Use sharp carvbide Blades and cutting and sand the edges of all the cuts. I agree HSS will cut faster and last a long time. Knight-Toolworks http://www.knight-toolworks.com affordable handmade wooden planes |
On 26 Jun 2005 16:50:53 -0700, "Tattooed and Dusty"
wrote: I just finished a small project working with Ipe for a client. While most of the troubles I had won't apply to you, I will warn that I will most likely never use the stuff again. It is by far the hardest, densest, and foul material I have ever worked with. Two router bits broken, half a dozen drill bits, and I need to replace or sharpen every blade that touched the stuff. HUH? I use it and other tropicals every day and get two months out of a bi metal bandsaw blade 4 or months between blade sharpenings. 4 months or so on planer knives. myself if I am machining wood I rather work with tropicals then american woods. Knight-Toolworks http://www.knight-toolworks.com affordable handmade wooden planes |
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