Does urea formaldehyde glue bother you?
 

I want a longer open time glue and UF fits the bill. Does it irritate
your nose, breathing, or skin? Is it only a problem when it is in
powder form and floats in the air during handling? How about when
sanding through glue lines?

There isn't a better alternative is there? I don't want to use the
foamy Gorilla Glue type glues.

I want performance on a par with Titebond but with a much longer open time.

Dave

Maybe the correct term is Urea Resin. I found some in the Woodworker's
Supply catalog. Doesn't it have formaldehyde in it?

Dave

"David" wrote in message
...
I want a longer open time glue and UF fits the bill. Does it irritate your
nose, breathing, or skin? Is it only a problem when it is in powder form
and floats in the air during handling? How about when sanding through glue
lines?

There isn't a better alternative is there? I don't want to use the foamy
Gorilla Glue type glues.

I want performance on a par with Titebond but with a much longer open
time.

Before the Titebond and Elmer's type glues there was the Weldwood Plastic
Resin glues. They come in a powder form, mix with water, have a long open
time, and don't get it on you or your clothes. It has to wear off. Very
strong.
http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop.../dap/00203.htm

Thanks, Leon. I'd prefer to buy a small amount like in the link you
included. The W.S. cat. sells a larger amount of another brand for $23.
Now all I have to do is see if I can get the Weldwood at a local
store. I looked yesterday at HD for any type of UF and found zilch.

Dave

Leon wrote:

"David" wrote in message
...

I want a longer open time glue and UF fits the bill. Does it irritate your
nose, breathing, or skin? Is it only a problem when it is in powder form
and floats in the air during handling? How about when sanding through glue
lines?

There isn't a better alternative is there? I don't want to use the foamy
Gorilla Glue type glues.

I want performance on a par with Titebond but with a much longer open
time.


Before the Titebond and Elmer's type glues there was the Weldwood Plastic
Resin glues. They come in a powder form, mix with water, have a long open
time, and don't get it on you or your clothes. It has to wear off. Very
strong.
http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop.../dap/00203.htm

I found some locally. $6.99 for 1 lb.

Thanks again, Leon.

Dave

Leon wrote:


http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop.../dap/00203.htm

How long do you leave the clamps on with this glue?

Dave

Leon wrote:

http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop.../dap/00203.htm

David says...

I want a longer open time glue and UF fits the bill. Does it irritate
your nose, breathing, or skin? Is it only a problem when it is in
powder form and floats in the air during handling? How about when
sanding through glue lines?

There isn't a better alternative is there? I don't want to use the
foamy Gorilla Glue type glues.

I want performance on a par with Titebond but with a much longer open time.

Dave

How about a slow setting epoxy? In most ways it is superior to PVA
glues. I just picked up a supply of the slow setting #3 hardener for
System 3. It gives 40 min of open time before gelling at 90°. The #2
hardener was setting too fast. IMO, the only disadvantage is that it is
too runny for most glue jobs without a thickener, and maybe slightly
higher cost. Other than that, it is a dream. It will glue just about
anything, there is less need for clamping, it is gap filling, it dries
clear, and it scrapes and sands away much easier than any other glue,
except for maybe hide glue, which is my second favorite. It does a good
job of filling small surface imperfections like planer tearout and
freezing in place unsound knots. Once they are shellacked over, the
repairs look very good. You can get a quart of System 3 resin and a
pint of hardener for about $45 at Woodcraft. Rockler and Lee Valley
sells West Systems for about the same price. That isn't a whole lot
more than Titebond ounce for ounce.

I like the Titebond liquid hide glue better than PVA glue, and it has a
slightly longer open time. What's really nice is that if you do screw
up, you can undo just about anything with an iron and a few drops of hot
water. That saved my ass recently. I put a piece on upside down and
since it was hide glue, I had it apart and reglued in minutes. Any
other glue, and I would have been doing a much more radical repair. A
big disadvantage is short shelf life. BTW, for PVA glues, you can get
Elmer's brand for a lot less money than Titebond.

David wrote:

How long do you leave the clamps on with this glue?


Forever... :)

Like Duane said, for ever. Actually I left it 24 hours.


"David" wrote in message
...
How long do you leave the clamps on with this glue?

Dave

Leon wrote:

http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop.../dap/00203.htm

Great! As if my throughput wasn't bad enough already...
Dave

Duane Bozarth wrote:

David wrote:

How long do you leave the clamps on with this glue?



Forever... :)

David wrote:

Great! As if my throughput wasn't bad enough already...
Dave

It'll say for the particular variety on the can instructions but it will
be in hours, not minutes. After all, you did want a long open time...
:)

Also note these glues don't "tack up" like pva glues--they need the
compression to build joint strength until fully cured.


Duane Bozarth wrote:

David wrote:

How long do you leave the clamps on with this glue?



Forever... :)

Thanks, Duane. Guess I can forget about using it for a rubbed joint! :)

Oh, does it dry about the same color as titebond?

Dave

Duane Bozarth wrote:

David wrote:

Great! As if my throughput wasn't bad enough already...
Dave


It'll say for the particular variety on the can instructions but it will
be in hours, not minutes. After all, you did want a long open time...
:)

Also note these glues don't "tack up" like pva glues--they need the
compression to build joint strength until fully cured.



Duane Bozarth wrote:


David wrote:


How long do you leave the clamps on with this glue?



Forever... :)

David wrote:

Thanks, Duane. Guess I can forget about using it for a rubbed joint! :)

Oh, does it dry about the same color as titebond?

All I've seen are amber/brown....

Leon wrote:
"David" wrote in message
...

I want a longer open time glue and UF fits the bill. Does it irritate your
nose, breathing, or skin? Is it only a problem when it is in powder form
and floats in the air during handling? How about when sanding through glue
lines?

There isn't a better alternative is there? I don't want to use the foamy
Gorilla Glue type glues.

I want performance on a par with Titebond but with a much longer open
time.


Before the Titebond and Elmer's type glues there was the Weldwood Plastic
Resin glues. They come in a powder form, mix with water, have a long open
time, and don't get it on you or your clothes. It has to wear off. Very
strong.
http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop.../dap/00203.htm

I use to use that glue. Look in the books about
different types of glue. It is fairly thin and
likes tight joints. I put two pieces of 1/2 ply
together for my RAS about 30 years ago. Still
going strong ( i.e., the pieces never separated).

BTW, it has no smell when mixed that I could detect.

David wrote in :

Great! As if my throughput wasn't bad enough already...
Dave


Check the temperature requirements for curing as well. While it may not be
a problem this time of year, there is no way my shop will be 60+ degrees
for 12-24 hours during the winter season.

Patriarch

The one I got says 70 degrees. Most of the time, that'll be ok.

I just read the fine print. At 90 degrees open time is only 5 minutes!!
What did I gain over Titebond?

Dave

Patriarch wrote:

David wrote in :


Great! As if my throughput wasn't bad enough already...
Dave



Check the temperature requirements for curing as well. While it may not be
a problem this time of year, there is no way my shop will be 60+ degrees
for 12-24 hours during the winter season.

Patriarch

David wrote in
:

The one I got says 70 degrees. Most of the time, that'll be ok.

I just read the fine print. At 90 degrees open time is only 5
minutes!!
What did I gain over Titebond?

Dave


Have you looked into using Titebond Extend?

Patriarch

Until it's dry. :)

"David" wrote in message
...
How long do you leave the clamps on with this glue?

Dave

Leon wrote:


http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop.../dap/00203.htm

Yup. I've had a gallon in stock for more than a year. I don't find it
all that useful and dislike it's consistency. Too runny.

At 75 degrees, I glued up some oak with the plastic resin and will leave
it clamped until tomorrow. I also left glue spread out on some scrap for
over a 1/2 hour; they were still wet, so at moderate temps it looks like
this stuff will suit my needs. According to the label, around 90 it
isn't gonna give much working time.

Dave

Patriarch wrote:

David wrote in
:


The one I got says 70 degrees. Most of the time, that'll be ok.

I just read the fine print. At 90 degrees open time is only 5
minutes!!
What did I gain over Titebond?

Dave



Have you looked into using Titebond Extend?

Patriarch

David wrote:

Yup. I've had a gallon in stock for more than a year. I don't find it
all that useful and dislike it's consistency. Too runny.

At 75 degrees, I glued up some oak with the plastic resin and will leave
it clamped until tomorrow. I also left glue spread out on some scrap for
over a 1/2 hour; they were still wet, so at moderate temps it looks like
this stuff will suit my needs. According to the label, around 90 it
isn't gonna give much working time.

To point out the obvious, if you have a major glue-up requiring such a
long open time and have such a problem w/ shop temperature (and I
certainly understand that :( ), get it all ready and to the dry fit in
the evening then hit the glue-up first thing next morning. Has the
added benefit of being fresh for the high-tension process....