Some pics of the completed entertainment ctr

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Best regards
Han
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Han wrote in news:Xns9F4D720DC2D3Aikkezelf@
207.246.207.168:

Some pics of the completed entertainment ctr

Seems some pictures aren't showing too well. Sorry about that.

--
Best regards
Han
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All I can say is, WOW!!

--
Paul


"Han" wrote in message
...
Some pics of the completed entertainment ctr

--
Best regards
Han
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"Han" wrote in message
...
Some pics of the completed entertainment ctr

--
Best regards
Han
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Lots of detail on the sides. How long did it take you?

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in
:


"Han" wrote in message
...
Some pics of the completed entertainment ctr

--
Best regards
Han
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Lots of detail on the sides. How long did it take you?

It wasn't really all that much work, but I procrastinated very much.
Total real work time should probably not be more than 2 weeks, including
glue and finish drying times. There are some dados and rabbets, but much
is just about butt joined. Some joints are reinforced with loose tenons
(small Dominos - fantastic system!!). That includes the verticals. I
would NOT do the banding with solid wood again. A bit difficult to avoid
glue gaps, and not easy to edge rout to even with the plywood surface
without damaging the veneer of the plywood. Using the iron-on veneer is
easier and sufficient for "stuff" that's not subject to real heavy wear.

As I said before, the idea for the woven doors came from an article in
Fine Wood Working on different treatments of doors and panels.

--
Best regards
Han
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Can you comment on problems with the solid wood banding?
I might be there over the winter this year and was thinking of a similar
idea...maybe larger 3/4 x 3/4 for a finished oak edging? Your input may
convince me otherwise while in the concept stages.

-----------
"Han" wrote in message ...
It wasn't really all that much work, but I procrastinated very much.
Total real work time should probably not be more than 2 weeks, including
glue and finish drying times. There are some dados and rabbets, but much
is just about butt joined. Some joints are reinforced with loose tenons
(small Dominos - fantastic system!!). That includes the verticals. I
would NOT do the banding with solid wood again. A bit difficult to avoid
glue gaps, and not easy to edge rout to even with the plywood surface
without damaging the veneer of the plywood. Using the iron-on veneer is
easier and sufficient for "stuff" that's not subject to real heavy wear.

As I said before, the idea for the woven doors came from an article in
Fine Wood Working on different treatments of doors and panels.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"Josepi" wrote in
:

Can you comment on problems with the solid wood banding?
I might be there over the winter this year and was thinking of a
similar idea...maybe larger 3/4 x 3/4 for a finished oak edging? Your
input may convince me otherwise while in the concept stages.

I used nominal 3/4" maple-veneer plywood. I bought "solid wood edging"
from Rockler http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10540&rrt=1.
That was fine as far as I could see. As a novice I had 2 problems with
it:
1) I had problems using an edge router bit in my heavy Bosch router
in that it easily dug into the veneer until I had made a jig that holds
it so that it stays really parallel to the veneer.
2) It is amazingly difficult to get this wood strip glued to the edge so
as not to show a small crack between the veneer and it. Not sure whether
this is due to the sawcut not being exactly 90degrees (but I doubt that)
or to the pressure of the clamps being uneven and twisting the wood strip
(more likely).

Therefore I like the iron-on veneer strip banding better. With a little
practice, a good sharp utility knife and/or a good file, it is easy to
get it nicely glued to the edge.

HTH!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

1) I assume you are referring to the trimming process with the router and
that the perpendicular maintaining was a problem.

2) I often thought a hard rubber foam layer under a solid pressure strip
with multiple clamps might do the job for long edge gluing. Any comments on
that would be appreciated after your experience.

-----------------
"Han" wrote in message ...
I used nominal 3/4" maple-veneer plywood. I bought "solid wood edging"
from Rockler http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10540&rrt=1.
That was fine as far as I could see. As a novice I had 2 problems with
it:
1) I had problems using an edge router bit in my heavy Bosch router
in that it easily dug into the veneer until I had made a jig that holds
it so that it stays really parallel to the veneer.
2) It is amazingly difficult to get this wood strip glued to the edge so
as not to show a small crack between the veneer and it. Not sure whether
this is due to the sawcut not being exactly 90degrees (but I doubt that)
or to the pressure of the clamps being uneven and twisting the wood strip
(more likely).

Therefore I like the iron-on veneer strip banding better. With a little
practice, a good sharp utility knife and/or a good file, it is easy to
get it nicely glued to the edge.

HTH!

"Josepi" wrote in
:

1) I assume you are referring to the trimming process with the router
and that the perpendicular maintaining was a problem.

Correct

2) I often thought a hard rubber foam layer under a solid pressure
strip with multiple clamps might do the job for long edge gluing. Any
comments on that would be appreciated after your experience.

I did this minus the rubber foam - I used a piece of 2x and many Bessey
clamps. Even with their parallel jaws, I think I had instances where the
pressure was greater by one face of the plywood than by the other,
generating a small narrow glue gap on 1 side.

Mind you, I am quite pleased with my results, but it could have been even
better. I have also done some edging with the iron-on veneer tape. While
this may be a bit less desirable in terms of wear resistance, it is quite
acceptable visually. And easier, faster and cheaper.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

I cannot see the pictures?
john

"Han" wrote in message ...

Han wrote in news:Xns9F4D720DC2D3Aikkezelf@
207.246.207.168:

Some pics of the completed entertainment ctr

Seems some pictures aren't showing too well. Sorry about that.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"jloomis" wrote in :

I cannot see the pictures?
john

They came as separate posts with titles like
Entertainment ctr finished - File 4 of 5 - IMG_3087 (Copy).JPG (1/1)

They're still on the astraweb server ...


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Oh...must have been asleep.
Love it.
nice work and bet you are enjoying the set up.
john

"Han" wrote in message ...

"jloomis" wrote in :

I cannot see the pictures?
john

They came as separate posts with titles like
Entertainment ctr finished - File 4 of 5 - IMG_3087 (Copy).JPG (1/1)

They're still on the astraweb server ...


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"jloomis" wrote in :

Love it.
nice work and bet you are enjoying the set up.
john


Thanks!!

We love it. As mentioned elsewhere, spouse took a big part in the
designing and needs the credit for it!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

I have seen so many older pieces of furniture (factory made and maybe
cheaply, too) that the edging has started to peel off.

Usually it can be put back on with careful usage of a hot iron **before** it
gets caught on something and ripped or bent.

I think for a desk edge or heavy usage a 18 x 18mm edge piece may do better
but for a shelf or less friction edge the tape may be the best. For a desk
or furniture tops I always like the routed, rolled edge better, of course
and it would take more than just a veneer tape.

I guess I have my answer in the last paragraph...LOL

Thanks for the information.

----------------
"Han" wrote in message ...

Mind you, I am quite pleased with my results, but it could have been even
better. I have also done some edging with the iron-on veneer tape. While
this may be a bit less desirable in terms of wear resistance, it is quite
acceptable visually. And easier, faster and cheaper.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid