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#1
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Some pics of the completed entertainment ctr
-- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#2
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Han wrote in news:Xns9F4D720DC2D3Aikkezelf@
207.246.207.168: Some pics of the completed entertainment ctr Seems some pictures aren't showing too well. Sorry about that. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#3
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All I can say is, WOW!!
-- Paul "Han" wrote in message ... Some pics of the completed entertainment ctr -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#4
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![]() "Han" wrote in message ... Some pics of the completed entertainment ctr -- Best regards Han email address is invalid Lots of detail on the sides. How long did it take you? |
#5
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"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in
: "Han" wrote in message ... Some pics of the completed entertainment ctr -- Best regards Han email address is invalid Lots of detail on the sides. How long did it take you? It wasn't really all that much work, but I procrastinated very much. Total real work time should probably not be more than 2 weeks, including glue and finish drying times. There are some dados and rabbets, but much is just about butt joined. Some joints are reinforced with loose tenons (small Dominos - fantastic system!!). That includes the verticals. I would NOT do the banding with solid wood again. A bit difficult to avoid glue gaps, and not easy to edge rout to even with the plywood surface without damaging the veneer of the plywood. Using the iron-on veneer is easier and sufficient for "stuff" that's not subject to real heavy wear. As I said before, the idea for the woven doors came from an article in Fine Wood Working on different treatments of doors and panels. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#6
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Can you comment on problems with the solid wood banding?
I might be there over the winter this year and was thinking of a similar idea...maybe larger 3/4 x 3/4 for a finished oak edging? Your input may convince me otherwise while in the concept stages. ----------- "Han" wrote in message ... It wasn't really all that much work, but I procrastinated very much. Total real work time should probably not be more than 2 weeks, including glue and finish drying times. There are some dados and rabbets, but much is just about butt joined. Some joints are reinforced with loose tenons (small Dominos - fantastic system!!). That includes the verticals. I would NOT do the banding with solid wood again. A bit difficult to avoid glue gaps, and not easy to edge rout to even with the plywood surface without damaging the veneer of the plywood. Using the iron-on veneer is easier and sufficient for "stuff" that's not subject to real heavy wear. As I said before, the idea for the woven doors came from an article in Fine Wood Working on different treatments of doors and panels. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#7
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"Josepi" wrote in
: Can you comment on problems with the solid wood banding? I might be there over the winter this year and was thinking of a similar idea...maybe larger 3/4 x 3/4 for a finished oak edging? Your input may convince me otherwise while in the concept stages. I used nominal 3/4" maple-veneer plywood. I bought "solid wood edging" from Rockler http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10540&rrt=1. That was fine as far as I could see. As a novice I had 2 problems with it: 1) I had problems using an edge router bit in my heavy Bosch router in that it easily dug into the veneer until I had made a jig that holds it so that it stays really parallel to the veneer. 2) It is amazingly difficult to get this wood strip glued to the edge so as not to show a small crack between the veneer and it. Not sure whether this is due to the sawcut not being exactly 90degrees (but I doubt that) or to the pressure of the clamps being uneven and twisting the wood strip (more likely). Therefore I like the iron-on veneer strip banding better. With a little practice, a good sharp utility knife and/or a good file, it is easy to get it nicely glued to the edge. HTH! -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#8
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1) I assume you are referring to the trimming process with the router and
that the perpendicular maintaining was a problem. 2) I often thought a hard rubber foam layer under a solid pressure strip with multiple clamps might do the job for long edge gluing. Any comments on that would be appreciated after your experience. ----------------- "Han" wrote in message ... I used nominal 3/4" maple-veneer plywood. I bought "solid wood edging" from Rockler http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10540&rrt=1. That was fine as far as I could see. As a novice I had 2 problems with it: 1) I had problems using an edge router bit in my heavy Bosch router in that it easily dug into the veneer until I had made a jig that holds it so that it stays really parallel to the veneer. 2) It is amazingly difficult to get this wood strip glued to the edge so as not to show a small crack between the veneer and it. Not sure whether this is due to the sawcut not being exactly 90degrees (but I doubt that) or to the pressure of the clamps being uneven and twisting the wood strip (more likely). Therefore I like the iron-on veneer strip banding better. With a little practice, a good sharp utility knife and/or a good file, it is easy to get it nicely glued to the edge. HTH! |
#9
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"Josepi" wrote in
: 1) I assume you are referring to the trimming process with the router and that the perpendicular maintaining was a problem. Correct 2) I often thought a hard rubber foam layer under a solid pressure strip with multiple clamps might do the job for long edge gluing. Any comments on that would be appreciated after your experience. I did this minus the rubber foam - I used a piece of 2x and many Bessey clamps. Even with their parallel jaws, I think I had instances where the pressure was greater by one face of the plywood than by the other, generating a small narrow glue gap on 1 side. Mind you, I am quite pleased with my results, but it could have been even better. I have also done some edging with the iron-on veneer tape. While this may be a bit less desirable in terms of wear resistance, it is quite acceptable visually. And easier, faster and cheaper. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#10
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I cannot see the pictures?
john "Han" wrote in message ... Han wrote in news:Xns9F4D720DC2D3Aikkezelf@ 207.246.207.168: Some pics of the completed entertainment ctr Seems some pictures aren't showing too well. Sorry about that. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#11
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"jloomis" wrote in :
I cannot see the pictures? john They came as separate posts with titles like Entertainment ctr finished - File 4 of 5 - IMG_3087 (Copy).JPG (1/1) They're still on the astraweb server ... -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#12
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Oh...must have been asleep.
Love it. nice work and bet you are enjoying the set up. john "Han" wrote in message ... "jloomis" wrote in : I cannot see the pictures? john They came as separate posts with titles like Entertainment ctr finished - File 4 of 5 - IMG_3087 (Copy).JPG (1/1) They're still on the astraweb server ... -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#13
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"jloomis" wrote in :
Love it. nice work and bet you are enjoying the set up. john Thanks!! We love it. As mentioned elsewhere, spouse took a big part in the designing and needs the credit for it! -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#14
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I have seen so many older pieces of furniture (factory made and maybe
cheaply, too) that the edging has started to peel off. Usually it can be put back on with careful usage of a hot iron **before** it gets caught on something and ripped or bent. I think for a desk edge or heavy usage a 18 x 18mm edge piece may do better but for a shelf or less friction edge the tape may be the best. For a desk or furniture tops I always like the routed, rolled edge better, of course and it would take more than just a veneer tape. I guess I have my answer in the last paragraph...LOL Thanks for the information. ---------------- "Han" wrote in message ... Mind you, I am quite pleased with my results, but it could have been even better. I have also done some edging with the iron-on veneer tape. While this may be a bit less desirable in terms of wear resistance, it is quite acceptable visually. And easier, faster and cheaper. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
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