I want to paint some new furniture (pine) white, and sand it down to a 'plastic
smooth' finish. I'm using melamine oil paint.

Any advice anyone can give me on amount of coats and type of sanding would be
appreciated!

Thanks

Note that discussions are better held on rec.woodworking; this newsgroup
is primarily for photographs.

I'm not a finishing expert, but in general, it goes like this...

To get a "plastic" finish, you have to start with flat smooth wood, with
no surface grain texture. This is best done with some form of grain
filler, such as wood putty or liquid grain filler, alternating with
shellac sealer coats (sand, shellac, filler, sand, shellac). If done
right, the last shellac coat should be "flat". Make sure you use
dewaxed shellac, of course. Give it a final sanding (up to 150-220) and
spray your paint coat on top of it.

As usual, TRY ON A TEST PIECE FIRST !!!

wrote:

I want to paint some new furniture (pine) white, and sand it down to
a 'plastic
smooth' finish. I'm using melamine oil paint.

Any advice anyone can give me on amount of coats and type of sanding
would be
appreciated!
-------------------------------------
I'm no expert when it comes to finishing (Robert where are you?), but
based on some boat bright work, I'd proceed as follows:

Sand bare wood down with 150 grit.

If furniture is assembled, you are going to need a detail sander and
Fein is still the best.

After sanding, wipe down with alcohol
and apply 2-3 coats of dewaxed shellac.

Allow 24-48 hours between coats and sand lightly with 220 grit.

Once base coats are done, apply finish per mfg's instructions, sanding
with 320 grit between.finish coats.

Allow enough time between coats so sand paper does not load up with
paint.

Depending on the number of pieces to finish, might see you Labor
DayG.

Lew

On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 22:52:02 -0400, DJ Delorie wrote:


Note that discussions are better held on rec.woodworking; this newsgroup
is primarily for photographs.

Good idea! I should have gone there first I guess.

I'm not a finishing expert, but in general, it goes like this...

To get a "plastic" finish, you have to start with flat smooth wood, with
no surface grain texture. This is best done with some form of grain
filler, such as wood putty or liquid grain filler, alternating with
shellac sealer coats (sand, shellac, filler, sand, shellac). If done
right, the last shellac coat should be "flat". Make sure you use
dewaxed shellac, of course. Give it a final sanding (up to 150-220) and
spray your paint coat on top of it.

As usual, TRY ON A TEST PIECE FIRST !!!

Thanks!

On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 20:09:28 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


wrote:

I want to paint some new furniture (pine) white, and sand it down to
a 'plastic
smooth' finish. I'm using melamine oil paint.

Any advice anyone can give me on amount of coats and type of sanding
would be
appreciated!
-------------------------------------
I'm no expert when it comes to finishing (Robert where are you?), but
based on some boat bright work, I'd proceed as follows:

Sand bare wood down with 150 grit.

If furniture is assembled, you are going to need a detail sander and
Fein is still the best.

This is fairly simple design 'cube' furniture, all flat and no fancy details.
I'll put up a pic of one I started painting, after sanding the wood quite flat
with 300 paper. This one is the "test" piece and I'll see how it goes before
doing the others. If I have to I'll take the paint off and try other things!

After sanding, wipe down with alcohol
and apply 2-3 coats of dewaxed shellac.

Allow 24-48 hours between coats and sand lightly with 220 grit.

Once base coats are done, apply finish per mfg's instructions, sanding
with 320 grit between.finish coats.

Allow enough time between coats so sand paper does not load up with
paint.

Depending on the number of pieces to finish, might see you Labor
DayG.

No kidding, I've been building for 2 months now and still have a piece to
assemble!

Heres a pic, 4 coats of white...