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Default Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished

I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when
I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I
finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the
garage for the "photo shoot"

Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The small
highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is cherry.

3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish.

From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot
boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light bridge
to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait until I
know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers.














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Default Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished

Leon wrote:
I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when
I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I
finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the
garage for the "photo shoot"

Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The small
highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is cherry.

3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish.

From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot
boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light bridge
to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait until I
know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers.



Beautiful, Leon. How do you intend to finish them?
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Default Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished

"Leon" wrote in message
...
I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures
when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I
finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the
garage for the "photo shoot"

Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The
small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is
cherry.

3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish.

From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot
boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light
bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait
until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers.


Nicely done!!

---
www.garagewoodworks.com






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Default Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished


"Leon" wrote in message
...
I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures
when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I
finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the
garage for the "photo shoot"


Nicely done. Once you get them primed and painted you won't even see the
mis-matched wood.


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Default Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished

On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 20:38:00 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...
I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures
when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I
finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the
garage for the "photo shoot"


Nicely done. Once you get them primed and painted you won't even see the
mis-matched wood.


ROTFLMAO

You don't paint cherry you dummy. You STAIN it!

Gordon Shumway

One positive thing about 'Cash for Clunkers' is that
it took thousands of Obama bumper stickers off the road.


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Default Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished

Looks good Leon. I trust you didn't lose any parts.



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" wrote in message
news
Leon wrote:
I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures
when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I
finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the
garage for the "photo shoot"

Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The
small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is
cherry.

3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish.

From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot
boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light
bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait
until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers.

Beautiful, Leon.


Thank you

How do you intend to finish them?

3 coats of Red paint! ;!)

In case you missed it, I put on 3 coats of LMF gel varnish.








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"GarageWoodworks" b@b wrote in message
et...
"Leon" wrote in message
...
I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures
when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I
finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the
garage for the "photo shoot"

Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The
small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is
cherry.

3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish.

From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot
boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light
bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait
until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers.


Nicely done!!


Thank you


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"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...
I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures
when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I
finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the
garage for the "photo shoot"


Nicely done. Once you get them primed and painted you won't even see the
mis-matched wood.


That's what I keep telling my wife! LOL

thank you




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Default Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished


"Gordon Shumway" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 20:38:00 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...
I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures
when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I
finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the
garage for the "photo shoot"


Nicely done. Once you get them primed and painted you won't even see the
mis-matched wood.


ROTFLMAO

You don't paint cherry you dummy. You STAIN it!



Every one knows that. ;~)




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Default Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished

"Leon" wrote in
:

I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the
pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the
rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to
wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot"

Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The
small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles
is cherry.

3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish.

From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and
foot boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a
light bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge
should wait until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit
between the towers.




That's something I'd find a place for in my house! Beautiful.

Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
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"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
...
Looks good Leon. I trust you didn't lose any parts.



Thank you.

You know, through the years I have learned that when doing production and
making a bunch of parts, you make a few extra just in case. I still have
the extras, nothing came out incorrectly, no mistakes...... UNTIL I was
cutting out the friggen "rectangle back panels? I was hoping to get all 6
out of a sheet of plywood and have some left over. I screwed up 3 of the 6.
It was a good thing I had a full sheet to start with.


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"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in
:

I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the
pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the
rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to
wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot"

Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The
small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles
is cherry.

3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish.

From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and
foot boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a
light bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge
should wait until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit
between the towers.




That's something I'd find a place for in my house! Beautiful.


Thank you, I may have to "crow bar" them in. ;~)





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Default Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished

Leon wrote:

I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures
when
I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I
finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the
garage for the "photo shoot"

Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The
small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is
cherry.

3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish.

From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot
boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light
bridge
to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait until I
know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers.


Well, you certainly shouldn't be short of storage space.

Very neat

--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham
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"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
m...


Well, you certainly shouldn't be short of storage space.


Only the beginning, next comes probably 6 drawers under the bed and a larger
taller dresser.



Very neat


Thnak you.



--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham





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"Gordon Shumway" wrote in message
You don't paint cherry you dummy. You STAIN it!

Gordon Shumway


OK, it just bought a quart of "Pine" stain.


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On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:04:30 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

You know, I was thinking about all those hundreds of pieces for these
towers. Did you just dry fit or go immediately to glue up stage with
the first panel of a particular size to ensure that all the pieces
that followed were of the correct size? I'm guessing you spent
considerable time planning all of this out.

My second observation is that you must have a pretty sizable shop
there for storing all those pieces until you got to the full assembly
stage.
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wrote:

My second observation is that you must have a pretty sizable shop
there for storing all those pieces until you got to the full
assembly
stage.


That's where those in process material carts NYW had as a project come
into play.

Lew



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wrote in message
...
On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:04:30 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

You know, I was thinking about all those hundreds of pieces for these
towers. Did you just dry fit or go immediately to glue up stage with
the first panel of a particular size to ensure that all the pieces
that followed were of the correct size? I'm guessing you spent
considerable time planning all of this out.


Swingman and I cannot stress enough how much Sketchup, Cutlist 4.0 and
Cutlist Plus make every thing so much easier. ;~)

I took the Sketchup master drawing, deleted out what I did not want to build
immediately and imported the remaining parts into Cutlist Plus through
Cutlist 4.0. This enabled me to only have to deal with parts that I was
immediately concerned with so I did not have an enormous pile of parts to
keep up with at any given time. I started with both outer panels, then both
inner panels, both back frames, and both front face frames. Then the panels
were all brought together by the 4 common fixed shelves on each tower.
Drawers next, doors next.

I dry fit the first of each style panel because I had a unique problem to
over come. Every panel had 4 common rails that had to all be precisely
orientated a specific distance from the bottom so that they would all
properly engage the 4 fixed shelves and their 32 Domino tenons. I built
spacer bars to insure that these common rails would all be precisely the
same distance from each other
during glue up and clamping. These common 16 rails for each tower already
had 2 mortise slots on their inner faces to mate with the mortise slots on
the 4 fixed shelves. Basically I needed to insure that the 32 Domino's on
the 4 fixed shelves were going to properly fit with the 16 rails on the 4
different panels. Because I used floating panels in the sides the rails
could be misaligned a given amount and that was where the spacer bars came
into play.

I dry fit each first of its kind panel to ensure that I could work the
spacer bars with the clamps. I had 18 clamps on the side panel glue ups.
The remaining mirror panels were immediately glued and assembled.

Then came the face frame with the extra drawer rails. This presented a
problem for my spacer bars for the 4 common rails previously mentioned.
Fortunately I had thought this out ahead of time and before any glue ups I
modified the spacer bars by adding added feet on each end so that the spacer
bars would straddle the drawer rails between the 4 fixed shelf rails.

And to affirm your suspicion, I did spend considerable time planing how I
was going to accomplish precise spacing of the 4 rails on the 8 panels. Any
rail being off even a "mm" would have meant that the domino tenons would not
have mated with the fixed shelves.
I did dry fit the completed 4 panels to the 4 shelves. This was just too
much to bring together and trust that each of my 64 mortises and 32 loose
tenons would all come together precisely. With 8 tenons in each shelf I
could afford to leave out a tenon or 2 in necessary, I was even prepared to
sand and make a tenon a bit thinner so that it would fit into a misaligned
hole.

Apparently all the planing and paying attention during the whole process of
milling the parts weeks ahead of final assembly worked out well. Both dry
fits on the first try resulted in all 32 tenons joining the 4 shelves to the
4 sides for each tower with a perfect no gap fit.

There was certainly a higher power working with me on this project. :~)



My second observation is that you must have a pretty sizable shop
there for storing all those pieces until you got to the full assembly
stage.


To bring up again what I previously mentioned, I did this in sections,
Sketchup allowed me to explode my drawings into individual component pieces
and only work on common sections at a time. I work out of my 2 car garage
that is mostly filled with equipment on mobile bases. The glue up of the
panels all took place on top of my TS.




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On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 08:24:03 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

tenons would all come together precisely. With 8 tenons in each shelf I
could afford to leave out a tenon or 2 in necessary, I was even prepared to
sand and make a tenon a bit thinner so that it would fit into a misaligned
hole.


I seem to remember maybe incorrectly, when I was watching an online
example of Domino construction, that the Domino had the ability to cut
some slots marginally wider than the tenons for alignment purposes.

Is that something you considered doing? Or, let me hazard a guess
that it's usually not necessary to use that function because the
Domino is capable of pretty precise cutting and alignment adjustment
is usually not necessary?


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wrote in message
...
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 08:24:03 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

tenons would all come together precisely. With 8 tenons in each shelf I
could afford to leave out a tenon or 2 in necessary, I was even prepared
to
sand and make a tenon a bit thinner so that it would fit into a
misaligned
hole.


I seem to remember maybe incorrectly, when I was watching an online
example of Domino construction, that the Domino had the ability to cut
some slots marginally wider than the tenons for alignment purposes.


Glad you brought that up. ;~) I meant to mention it earlier. Yes the
Domino has a precise width setting, a setting 3~4mm wider, and a setting
5-7mm wider. Don't quote me on those measurements however.


Is that something you considered doing?


That is what I do 100% of the time when using more than 1 domino and
alignment is critical. What, what did he just say?
May I step up to the podium?
With more than a couple of years of woodworking under my belt it is my
belief that a tenon does not have to precisely fill 100% of the hole to
deliver 90% of its strength. If you feel that you need 100% of the strength
of the tenon, you should probably be using a larger tenon because if you ask
101% strength from the joint, it is going to fail anyway.

Now a little bit about the Domino. I am not positive how the new style
works with the indexing tabs but on the first style the Domino used 2 spring
loaded collapsing steel dowels. One, the one on the right side as you hold
the tool pointing away from you is fixed. The left dowel is mounted in an
eccentric cylinder that can be turned/adjusted to bring the indexing pin
closer or farther away from the center of the cutter path. Both indexing
pins being "exactly" the same distance from the center of the cutter
path/cut helps insure that both halves of the joint index exactly where you
would expect. If the adjustable one is not in "perfect" sinc with the
opposite side pin the edges of the pieces being brought together by the
domino tenon will be slightly misaligned if you are using the perfect fit
cutter setting. Basically for one piece you use the right indexing pin,
for the other side you use the opposite indexing pin.

WHAT IN WOODWORKING IS PERFECT?

I personally do not believe the "perfect" alignment of the indexing pin is
something that should be trusted. Remember, the narrowest of the cutting
widths is precisely the width of the tenon. I mainly use the 5mm thick
domino tenons and when used with the exact sized hole I have to drive them
in with a small hammer or use the clamps to push them in. There is none of
this push them in with your thumb and there is certainly not any pulling
them out with out a pair of pliers with out damaging the tenon dry fitted.
Given that comment the tenons all fit, none in the last 2.5 years have not
fit, just be advised they fit precisely. The larger tenons do however fit
a "bit" more loosely but are still pretty snug. So when dry fitting 5mm
tenons you typically do not need clamps to hold every thing together and a
small rubber hammer or the like will be needed to sperate the parts. On my
tower project the "DRY FIT" tenons on the 4 shelves held all side panels
well enough that I was able to take the unit down from the TS top and set
them up right with absolutely no fear of them coming apart. Once you add
glue, that is a done deal, period.

BECAUSE the tenons on the narrowest cutter setting fit "precisely" every
additional tenon and mortise on both sides of the joint have to be
"PERFECTLY ALIGNED". May I ask again, What in woodworking is perfect? If
the wood swells over night some thing is not going to be perfectly aligned
any more. To solve this dilemma Festool lets you adjust the additional
mortises to be slightly wider so that the after the first perfectly fitting
tenon is cut you don't have to worry about getting the remainder of the
mortises down the edge of the board "PERFECTLY" spaced on both sides. If
you try to use 2 tenons in exact sized mortises and the spacing is not
"perfect", the joint probably will not close.

On the tower face frames I used 5mm tenons for the rails and stiles. If you
will recall I index spaced the 4 common shelf rails from the bottom rail.
It was important that the bottom rail remain stationary so that I could have
a solid stationary point to begin using my indexing rods for repeated
accurate spacing of the remainder 3 shelf rails. I use the exact fit cut
for the bottom rail mortise. For the remaining domino mortises I used the
next width cutting setting. This allowed me to wiggle the rails to the
perfect location using the indexing/spacer rods.

So normally I do not use the exact mortise cutting width unless I want the
piece being attached to be stationary during glue up and I only cut one
exact size for that purpose. The Domino can also be indexed visually like
a biscuit cutter is indexed. Put the two pieced together, draw across the
joint line where you want a tenon and use the visual indexing gauge on the
domino to cut at those points. It is important that you use the wider
cutting setting at those points as the Domino might wiggle to one side or
the other when cutting the mortise, but that is OK, absolutely not a problem
as long as you use one of the wider cutting settings.

With the wings accessory attached, I forget their exact correct name, you
also can use their adjustable indexing pins indexed in side of previously
cut mortises if you want to cut all the mortised evenly spaced with out
repeated measuring.


Now you did not ask but, up and down alignment is just as precise. One of
my first get to know the Domino test cuts in 3/4" thick MDF produced a joint
line that was hardly viable and one you could not feel. I can only caution
you to always use the fence to index. If you use the bottom of the Domino
to index the up and down alignment may not be desirable for a number of
reasons. If the wood is slightly warped, twisted, or bowed it will not set
flat on the surface it is setting on. If there is dust or debris under the
wood it will not set flat on the surface it is setting on. Additionally the
Domino may not set flat on the work surface if there is dust or debris
present. So I again advise to always use the fence to index from. This
should also be the practice with biscuit cutters. If the stock is too thin
and the Domino sets on the work surface, clamp the piece so that the end or
edge is hanging off the end of the work surface. This will allow the fence
to index against the top side of the piece.


AND FIY and this is a strange oddity that you just have to get used to.
When you use the CT22 or probably any other shop vac with the Domino, the
Domino remains dust free. After a few thousand mortises my Domino still
looks brand new. Can you imagine how accurate a tool will remain and how
much longer it will last when no dust ever collects from use? The sanders
look the same way.

Any more questions? LOL



















Or, let me hazard a guess
that it's usually not necessary to use that function because the
Domino is capable of pretty precise cutting and alignment adjustment
is usually not necessary?



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Leon wrote:

That is what I do 100% of the time when using more than 1 domino and
alignment is critical. What, what did he just say?
May I step up to the podium?
With more than a couple of years of woodworking under my belt it is my
belief that a tenon does not have to precisely fill 100% of the hole to
deliver 90% of its strength. If you feel that you need 100% of the strength
of the tenon, you should probably be using a larger tenon because if you ask
101% strength from the joint, it is going to fail anyway.


If you ever get a chance, take a look at picture x-rays of M&T joints on
old furniture.

Even some of the stuff the Hall brothers did for the Greene brothers
will scare the hell out of you.

I'm talking "VOIDS".

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
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On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:41:13 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

in with a small hammer or use the clamps to push them in. There is none of
this push them in with your thumb and there is certainly not any pulling
them out with out a pair of pliers with out damaging the tenon dry fitted.


One last question about that. If it's so tightly fitted when you're
using an exact alignment mortise, is there not the problem of starving
the joint from having sufficient glue?

Thanks
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wrote in message
...
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:41:13 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:


in with a small hammer or use the clamps to push them in. There is none
of
this push them in with your thumb and there is certainly not any pulling
them out with out a pair of pliers with out damaging the tenon dry fitted.


One last question about that. If it's so tightly fitted when you're
using an exact alignment mortise, is there not the problem of starving
the joint from having sufficient glue?

Thanks


NOPE! Again if I may step up to the podium. ;~) I have never never ever
never ever had a problem with glue starvation in a joint that had sufficient
glue to start with. IOW if the tight fit "appears" to remove all the glue,
that is OK. That was excess glue to begin with. A joint that needs a lot
of glue is a poor fitting joint. Typical wood glue is not a good gap filler
to begin with.

The best glued up joints, table tops for example, have joint lines that are
nearly invisible. The glue in that joint is really really thin.

I think glue starvation is confused with a situation where glue was not
applied correctly to begin with, for example running a thin bead of glue
down the edge of a board and not spreading it out to cover the whole
surface. If you simply let the mating board squeeze the glue out to where
ever it will go there are going to be some parts to that union that will not
get any glue on it at all. That is glue starvation.

Now having said that and perhaps answering another question that might come
up. With a tight fitting tenon, where does the glue go that does not come
out when the tenon is inserted, glue that you put down in the hole to begin
with?

The Domino has a depth gauge that indicates 1/2 the length of the tenon.
The Domino actually cuts the mortise about 2-2.5 mm deeper than required.
Basically with a typical joint using a 40 mm tenon you would use the 20 mm
depth setting. the Domino will actually cut about 22 mm and combined on
both sides of the joint you have about 4 mm of total room for the excess
glue. Again don't quote me on the exact cutting depth.

Lastly the Domino tenons have indention's on their sides that will carry
glue "down the hole". I use an acid brush to smear some glue into the
mortise and I totally paint the tenon with the brush.


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"Leon" wrote in message

I think glue starvation is confused with a situation where glue was not
applied correctly to begin with, for example running a thin bead of glue
down the edge of a board and not spreading it out to cover the whole
surface. If you simply let the mating board squeeze the glue out to where
ever it will go there are going to be some parts to that union that will
not get any glue on it at all. That is glue starvation.


There is also the idiot factor. Just a few weeks ago a door at work needed
repair as it was splitting in a few spots at the hinges. The cracks ran
from the near the hinge to the door edge on both top an bottom. Heavy 40"
door.

I decided that it should be fixed by applying epoxy and clamping everything
in place. One of the supervisors said he'd do it. I showed him where to
clamp and gave him the package of two part epoxy. He read the instructions.
Genius that he is, instead of mixing the two parts together, he figured he'd
coat one side with part A, the other with part B and clamp them. That would
be sufficient to mix them.

He re-did the job the next day.

Side note: the person that broke the door was suspended for three days.




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On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:20:07 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:
The Domino has a depth gauge that indicates 1/2 the length of the tenon.
The Domino actually cuts the mortise about 2-2.5 mm deeper than required.


During assembly, do you attempt to be careful to not insert the tenon
entirely in the full mortise depth?

I figure if I ask enough questions, when I finally get around to
buying my Domino, I'll be an expert at using it even before the box is
open.
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wrote in message
...
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:20:07 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:
The Domino has a depth gauge that indicates 1/2 the length of the tenon.
The Domino actually cuts the mortise about 2-2.5 mm deeper than required.


During assembly, do you attempt to be careful to not insert the tenon
entirely in the full mortise depth?


NO!I let it go as far as it will go. I don't want to waste time hoping to
see if I can actually center it. Eventually anyway the tenon is not going
to be perfectly centered after inserting the other end into the mating
piece. Remember for shear strength the length of the tenon is not going to
matter so much as it will if considering "pull out" strength. And again
when in doubt consider the next size up in tenon sizes/length. The Domino
is suppose to speed production and offer much more strength over a biscuit
or pocket hole screw and more versatility over a dowel. Keep in mind also
that in edge to edge gluing the tenon is acting more as an alignment feature
that is much more accurate over a biscuit as the properly glued joint will
be strong to start with.
The floating tenon "may not" always be as strong as a larger "hands on cut"
mortise and tenon but it is 25 times faster to produce and implement and you
are more likely to use them more often than not because of that simple fact.
Basically because you can quickly and consistently produce them accurately
time and time again your project will be stronger because of that given
fact.





I figure if I ask enough questions, when I finally get around to
buying my Domino, I'll be an expert at using it even before the box is
open.


Yeah! It is pretty much a no brainer concerning tenon insertion,


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"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message

I think glue starvation is confused with a situation where glue was not
applied correctly to begin with, for example running a thin bead of glue
down the edge of a board and not spreading it out to cover the whole
surface. If you simply let the mating board squeeze the glue out to
where ever it will go there are going to be some parts to that union that
will not get any glue on it at all. That is glue starvation.


There is also the idiot factor. Just a few weeks ago a door at work
needed repair as it was splitting in a few spots at the hinges. The
cracks ran from the near the hinge to the door edge on both top an bottom.
Heavy 40" door.

I decided that it should be fixed by applying epoxy and clamping
everything in place. One of the supervisors said he'd do it. I showed
him where to clamp and gave him the package of two part epoxy. He read the
instructions. Genius that he is, instead of mixing the two parts together,
he figured he'd coat one side with part A, the other with part B and clamp
them. That would be sufficient to mix them.

He re-did the job the next day.

Side note: the person that broke the door was suspended for three days.


Sounds like some of the fence building companies in the Houston area. They
dig the hole, pour the dry RediMix into the hole around the post and let
nature do the rest. They believe that the moisture in the ground will cure
the concrete. It is common to pour dry mix in the hole and add water, that
works quite well especially in our clay soil. I replaced a fence 2 years
ago and literally pulled the old posts out of the ground by hand. The
concrete was cured on the top inch or so but it appeard to be fresh out of
the bag below that level.


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