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#1
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when
I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot" Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is cherry. 3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish. From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers. |
#2
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
Leon wrote:
I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot" Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is cherry. 3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish. From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers. Beautiful, Leon. How do you intend to finish them? |
#3
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
"Leon" wrote in message
... I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot" Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is cherry. 3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish. From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers. Nicely done!! --- www.garagewoodworks.com |
#4
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
"Leon" wrote in message ... I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot" Nicely done. Once you get them primed and painted you won't even see the mis-matched wood. |
#5
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 20:38:00 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote: "Leon" wrote in message ... I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot" Nicely done. Once you get them primed and painted you won't even see the mis-matched wood. ROTFLMAO You don't paint cherry you dummy. You STAIN it! Gordon Shumway One positive thing about 'Cash for Clunkers' is that it took thousands of Obama bumper stickers off the road. |
#6
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
Looks good Leon. I trust you didn't lose any parts.
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#7
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
" wrote in message news Leon wrote: I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot" Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is cherry. 3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish. From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers. Beautiful, Leon. Thank you How do you intend to finish them? 3 coats of Red paint! ;!) In case you missed it, I put on 3 coats of LMF gel varnish. |
#8
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
"GarageWoodworks" b@b wrote in message et... "Leon" wrote in message ... I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot" Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is cherry. 3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish. From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers. Nicely done!! Thank you |
#9
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message ... "Leon" wrote in message ... I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot" Nicely done. Once you get them primed and painted you won't even see the mis-matched wood. That's what I keep telling my wife! LOL thank you |
#10
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
"Gordon Shumway" wrote in message news On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 20:38:00 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote: "Leon" wrote in message ... I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot" Nicely done. Once you get them primed and painted you won't even see the mis-matched wood. ROTFLMAO You don't paint cherry you dummy. You STAIN it! Every one knows that. ;~) |
#11
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
"Leon" wrote in
: I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot" Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is cherry. 3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish. From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers. That's something I'd find a place for in my house! Beautiful. Puckdropper -- "The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on rec.woodworking To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm |
#12
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
"Lee Michaels" wrote in message ... Looks good Leon. I trust you didn't lose any parts. Thank you. You know, through the years I have learned that when doing production and making a bunch of parts, you make a few extra just in case. I still have the extras, nothing came out incorrectly, no mistakes...... UNTIL I was cutting out the friggen "rectangle back panels? I was hoping to get all 6 out of a sheet of plywood and have some left over. I screwed up 3 of the 6. It was a good thing I had a full sheet to start with. |
#13
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message ... "Leon" wrote in : I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot" Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is cherry. 3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish. From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers. That's something I'd find a place for in my house! Beautiful. Thank you, I may have to "crow bar" them in. ;~) |
#14
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
Leon wrote:
I finished the towers today, many of you wanted me to post the pictures when I was done with them. I had a 30 minute break in the rain just as I finished attaching the back panels and was able to wheel them outside the garage for the "photo shoot" Mostly 1/4 sawn white and red oak and 1/4 sawn white oak panels. The small highlights on each door and on the fronts of the drawer handles is cherry. 3 coats of Lawrence McFadden Gel varnish. From here I will start ironing out the details for the bed head and foot boards and under bed storage. After that is done I'll build a light bridge to connect the towers. I felt that the light bridge should wait until I know for certain how the bed is going to fit between the towers. Well, you certainly shouldn't be short of storage space. Very neat -- There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage Rob Leatham |
#15
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message m... Well, you certainly shouldn't be short of storage space. Only the beginning, next comes probably 6 drawers under the bed and a larger taller dresser. Very neat Thnak you. -- There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage Rob Leatham |
#16
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
"Gordon Shumway" wrote in message You don't paint cherry you dummy. You STAIN it! Gordon Shumway OK, it just bought a quart of "Pine" stain. |
#17
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:04:30 -0500, "Leon"
wrote: You know, I was thinking about all those hundreds of pieces for these towers. Did you just dry fit or go immediately to glue up stage with the first panel of a particular size to ensure that all the pieces that followed were of the correct size? I'm guessing you spent considerable time planning all of this out. My second observation is that you must have a pretty sizable shop there for storing all those pieces until you got to the full assembly stage. |
#18
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
wrote: My second observation is that you must have a pretty sizable shop there for storing all those pieces until you got to the full assembly stage. That's where those in process material carts NYW had as a project come into play. Lew |
#19
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
wrote in message ... On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:04:30 -0500, "Leon" wrote: You know, I was thinking about all those hundreds of pieces for these towers. Did you just dry fit or go immediately to glue up stage with the first panel of a particular size to ensure that all the pieces that followed were of the correct size? I'm guessing you spent considerable time planning all of this out. Swingman and I cannot stress enough how much Sketchup, Cutlist 4.0 and Cutlist Plus make every thing so much easier. ;~) I took the Sketchup master drawing, deleted out what I did not want to build immediately and imported the remaining parts into Cutlist Plus through Cutlist 4.0. This enabled me to only have to deal with parts that I was immediately concerned with so I did not have an enormous pile of parts to keep up with at any given time. I started with both outer panels, then both inner panels, both back frames, and both front face frames. Then the panels were all brought together by the 4 common fixed shelves on each tower. Drawers next, doors next. I dry fit the first of each style panel because I had a unique problem to over come. Every panel had 4 common rails that had to all be precisely orientated a specific distance from the bottom so that they would all properly engage the 4 fixed shelves and their 32 Domino tenons. I built spacer bars to insure that these common rails would all be precisely the same distance from each other during glue up and clamping. These common 16 rails for each tower already had 2 mortise slots on their inner faces to mate with the mortise slots on the 4 fixed shelves. Basically I needed to insure that the 32 Domino's on the 4 fixed shelves were going to properly fit with the 16 rails on the 4 different panels. Because I used floating panels in the sides the rails could be misaligned a given amount and that was where the spacer bars came into play. I dry fit each first of its kind panel to ensure that I could work the spacer bars with the clamps. I had 18 clamps on the side panel glue ups. The remaining mirror panels were immediately glued and assembled. Then came the face frame with the extra drawer rails. This presented a problem for my spacer bars for the 4 common rails previously mentioned. Fortunately I had thought this out ahead of time and before any glue ups I modified the spacer bars by adding added feet on each end so that the spacer bars would straddle the drawer rails between the 4 fixed shelf rails. And to affirm your suspicion, I did spend considerable time planing how I was going to accomplish precise spacing of the 4 rails on the 8 panels. Any rail being off even a "mm" would have meant that the domino tenons would not have mated with the fixed shelves. I did dry fit the completed 4 panels to the 4 shelves. This was just too much to bring together and trust that each of my 64 mortises and 32 loose tenons would all come together precisely. With 8 tenons in each shelf I could afford to leave out a tenon or 2 in necessary, I was even prepared to sand and make a tenon a bit thinner so that it would fit into a misaligned hole. Apparently all the planing and paying attention during the whole process of milling the parts weeks ahead of final assembly worked out well. Both dry fits on the first try resulted in all 32 tenons joining the 4 shelves to the 4 sides for each tower with a perfect no gap fit. There was certainly a higher power working with me on this project. :~) My second observation is that you must have a pretty sizable shop there for storing all those pieces until you got to the full assembly stage. To bring up again what I previously mentioned, I did this in sections, Sketchup allowed me to explode my drawings into individual component pieces and only work on common sections at a time. I work out of my 2 car garage that is mostly filled with equipment on mobile bases. The glue up of the panels all took place on top of my TS. |
#20
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 08:24:03 -0500, "Leon"
wrote: tenons would all come together precisely. With 8 tenons in each shelf I could afford to leave out a tenon or 2 in necessary, I was even prepared to sand and make a tenon a bit thinner so that it would fit into a misaligned hole. I seem to remember maybe incorrectly, when I was watching an online example of Domino construction, that the Domino had the ability to cut some slots marginally wider than the tenons for alignment purposes. Is that something you considered doing? Or, let me hazard a guess that it's usually not necessary to use that function because the Domino is capable of pretty precise cutting and alignment adjustment is usually not necessary? |
#21
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
wrote in message ... On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 08:24:03 -0500, "Leon" wrote: tenons would all come together precisely. With 8 tenons in each shelf I could afford to leave out a tenon or 2 in necessary, I was even prepared to sand and make a tenon a bit thinner so that it would fit into a misaligned hole. I seem to remember maybe incorrectly, when I was watching an online example of Domino construction, that the Domino had the ability to cut some slots marginally wider than the tenons for alignment purposes. Glad you brought that up. ;~) I meant to mention it earlier. Yes the Domino has a precise width setting, a setting 3~4mm wider, and a setting 5-7mm wider. Don't quote me on those measurements however. Is that something you considered doing? That is what I do 100% of the time when using more than 1 domino and alignment is critical. What, what did he just say? May I step up to the podium? With more than a couple of years of woodworking under my belt it is my belief that a tenon does not have to precisely fill 100% of the hole to deliver 90% of its strength. If you feel that you need 100% of the strength of the tenon, you should probably be using a larger tenon because if you ask 101% strength from the joint, it is going to fail anyway. Now a little bit about the Domino. I am not positive how the new style works with the indexing tabs but on the first style the Domino used 2 spring loaded collapsing steel dowels. One, the one on the right side as you hold the tool pointing away from you is fixed. The left dowel is mounted in an eccentric cylinder that can be turned/adjusted to bring the indexing pin closer or farther away from the center of the cutter path. Both indexing pins being "exactly" the same distance from the center of the cutter path/cut helps insure that both halves of the joint index exactly where you would expect. If the adjustable one is not in "perfect" sinc with the opposite side pin the edges of the pieces being brought together by the domino tenon will be slightly misaligned if you are using the perfect fit cutter setting. Basically for one piece you use the right indexing pin, for the other side you use the opposite indexing pin. WHAT IN WOODWORKING IS PERFECT? I personally do not believe the "perfect" alignment of the indexing pin is something that should be trusted. Remember, the narrowest of the cutting widths is precisely the width of the tenon. I mainly use the 5mm thick domino tenons and when used with the exact sized hole I have to drive them in with a small hammer or use the clamps to push them in. There is none of this push them in with your thumb and there is certainly not any pulling them out with out a pair of pliers with out damaging the tenon dry fitted. Given that comment the tenons all fit, none in the last 2.5 years have not fit, just be advised they fit precisely. The larger tenons do however fit a "bit" more loosely but are still pretty snug. So when dry fitting 5mm tenons you typically do not need clamps to hold every thing together and a small rubber hammer or the like will be needed to sperate the parts. On my tower project the "DRY FIT" tenons on the 4 shelves held all side panels well enough that I was able to take the unit down from the TS top and set them up right with absolutely no fear of them coming apart. Once you add glue, that is a done deal, period. BECAUSE the tenons on the narrowest cutter setting fit "precisely" every additional tenon and mortise on both sides of the joint have to be "PERFECTLY ALIGNED". May I ask again, What in woodworking is perfect? If the wood swells over night some thing is not going to be perfectly aligned any more. To solve this dilemma Festool lets you adjust the additional mortises to be slightly wider so that the after the first perfectly fitting tenon is cut you don't have to worry about getting the remainder of the mortises down the edge of the board "PERFECTLY" spaced on both sides. If you try to use 2 tenons in exact sized mortises and the spacing is not "perfect", the joint probably will not close. On the tower face frames I used 5mm tenons for the rails and stiles. If you will recall I index spaced the 4 common shelf rails from the bottom rail. It was important that the bottom rail remain stationary so that I could have a solid stationary point to begin using my indexing rods for repeated accurate spacing of the remainder 3 shelf rails. I use the exact fit cut for the bottom rail mortise. For the remaining domino mortises I used the next width cutting setting. This allowed me to wiggle the rails to the perfect location using the indexing/spacer rods. So normally I do not use the exact mortise cutting width unless I want the piece being attached to be stationary during glue up and I only cut one exact size for that purpose. The Domino can also be indexed visually like a biscuit cutter is indexed. Put the two pieced together, draw across the joint line where you want a tenon and use the visual indexing gauge on the domino to cut at those points. It is important that you use the wider cutting setting at those points as the Domino might wiggle to one side or the other when cutting the mortise, but that is OK, absolutely not a problem as long as you use one of the wider cutting settings. With the wings accessory attached, I forget their exact correct name, you also can use their adjustable indexing pins indexed in side of previously cut mortises if you want to cut all the mortised evenly spaced with out repeated measuring. Now you did not ask but, up and down alignment is just as precise. One of my first get to know the Domino test cuts in 3/4" thick MDF produced a joint line that was hardly viable and one you could not feel. I can only caution you to always use the fence to index. If you use the bottom of the Domino to index the up and down alignment may not be desirable for a number of reasons. If the wood is slightly warped, twisted, or bowed it will not set flat on the surface it is setting on. If there is dust or debris under the wood it will not set flat on the surface it is setting on. Additionally the Domino may not set flat on the work surface if there is dust or debris present. So I again advise to always use the fence to index from. This should also be the practice with biscuit cutters. If the stock is too thin and the Domino sets on the work surface, clamp the piece so that the end or edge is hanging off the end of the work surface. This will allow the fence to index against the top side of the piece. AND FIY and this is a strange oddity that you just have to get used to. When you use the CT22 or probably any other shop vac with the Domino, the Domino remains dust free. After a few thousand mortises my Domino still looks brand new. Can you imagine how accurate a tool will remain and how much longer it will last when no dust ever collects from use? The sanders look the same way. Any more questions? LOL Or, let me hazard a guess that it's usually not necessary to use that function because the Domino is capable of pretty precise cutting and alignment adjustment is usually not necessary? |
#22
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
Leon wrote:
That is what I do 100% of the time when using more than 1 domino and alignment is critical. What, what did he just say? May I step up to the podium? With more than a couple of years of woodworking under my belt it is my belief that a tenon does not have to precisely fill 100% of the hole to deliver 90% of its strength. If you feel that you need 100% of the strength of the tenon, you should probably be using a larger tenon because if you ask 101% strength from the joint, it is going to fail anyway. If you ever get a chance, take a look at picture x-rays of M&T joints on old furniture. Even some of the stuff the Hall brothers did for the Greene brothers will scare the hell out of you. I'm talking "VOIDS". -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#23
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:41:13 -0500, "Leon"
wrote: in with a small hammer or use the clamps to push them in. There is none of this push them in with your thumb and there is certainly not any pulling them out with out a pair of pliers with out damaging the tenon dry fitted. One last question about that. If it's so tightly fitted when you're using an exact alignment mortise, is there not the problem of starving the joint from having sufficient glue? Thanks |
#24
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
wrote in message ... On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:41:13 -0500, "Leon" wrote: in with a small hammer or use the clamps to push them in. There is none of this push them in with your thumb and there is certainly not any pulling them out with out a pair of pliers with out damaging the tenon dry fitted. One last question about that. If it's so tightly fitted when you're using an exact alignment mortise, is there not the problem of starving the joint from having sufficient glue? Thanks NOPE! Again if I may step up to the podium. ;~) I have never never ever never ever had a problem with glue starvation in a joint that had sufficient glue to start with. IOW if the tight fit "appears" to remove all the glue, that is OK. That was excess glue to begin with. A joint that needs a lot of glue is a poor fitting joint. Typical wood glue is not a good gap filler to begin with. The best glued up joints, table tops for example, have joint lines that are nearly invisible. The glue in that joint is really really thin. I think glue starvation is confused with a situation where glue was not applied correctly to begin with, for example running a thin bead of glue down the edge of a board and not spreading it out to cover the whole surface. If you simply let the mating board squeeze the glue out to where ever it will go there are going to be some parts to that union that will not get any glue on it at all. That is glue starvation. Now having said that and perhaps answering another question that might come up. With a tight fitting tenon, where does the glue go that does not come out when the tenon is inserted, glue that you put down in the hole to begin with? The Domino has a depth gauge that indicates 1/2 the length of the tenon. The Domino actually cuts the mortise about 2-2.5 mm deeper than required. Basically with a typical joint using a 40 mm tenon you would use the 20 mm depth setting. the Domino will actually cut about 22 mm and combined on both sides of the joint you have about 4 mm of total room for the excess glue. Again don't quote me on the exact cutting depth. Lastly the Domino tenons have indention's on their sides that will carry glue "down the hole". I use an acid brush to smear some glue into the mortise and I totally paint the tenon with the brush. |
#25
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
"Leon" wrote in message I think glue starvation is confused with a situation where glue was not applied correctly to begin with, for example running a thin bead of glue down the edge of a board and not spreading it out to cover the whole surface. If you simply let the mating board squeeze the glue out to where ever it will go there are going to be some parts to that union that will not get any glue on it at all. That is glue starvation. There is also the idiot factor. Just a few weeks ago a door at work needed repair as it was splitting in a few spots at the hinges. The cracks ran from the near the hinge to the door edge on both top an bottom. Heavy 40" door. I decided that it should be fixed by applying epoxy and clamping everything in place. One of the supervisors said he'd do it. I showed him where to clamp and gave him the package of two part epoxy. He read the instructions. Genius that he is, instead of mixing the two parts together, he figured he'd coat one side with part A, the other with part B and clamp them. That would be sufficient to mix them. He re-did the job the next day. Side note: the person that broke the door was suspended for three days. |
#26
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:20:07 -0500, "Leon"
wrote: The Domino has a depth gauge that indicates 1/2 the length of the tenon. The Domino actually cuts the mortise about 2-2.5 mm deeper than required. During assembly, do you attempt to be careful to not insert the tenon entirely in the full mortise depth? I figure if I ask enough questions, when I finally get around to buying my Domino, I'll be an expert at using it even before the box is open. |
#27
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
wrote in message ... On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:20:07 -0500, "Leon" wrote: The Domino has a depth gauge that indicates 1/2 the length of the tenon. The Domino actually cuts the mortise about 2-2.5 mm deeper than required. During assembly, do you attempt to be careful to not insert the tenon entirely in the full mortise depth? NO!I let it go as far as it will go. I don't want to waste time hoping to see if I can actually center it. Eventually anyway the tenon is not going to be perfectly centered after inserting the other end into the mating piece. Remember for shear strength the length of the tenon is not going to matter so much as it will if considering "pull out" strength. And again when in doubt consider the next size up in tenon sizes/length. The Domino is suppose to speed production and offer much more strength over a biscuit or pocket hole screw and more versatility over a dowel. Keep in mind also that in edge to edge gluing the tenon is acting more as an alignment feature that is much more accurate over a biscuit as the properly glued joint will be strong to start with. The floating tenon "may not" always be as strong as a larger "hands on cut" mortise and tenon but it is 25 times faster to produce and implement and you are more likely to use them more often than not because of that simple fact. Basically because you can quickly and consistently produce them accurately time and time again your project will be stronger because of that given fact. I figure if I ask enough questions, when I finally get around to buying my Domino, I'll be an expert at using it even before the box is open. Yeah! It is pretty much a no brainer concerning tenon insertion, |
#28
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Oak and cherry bedroom towers finished
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message ... "Leon" wrote in message I think glue starvation is confused with a situation where glue was not applied correctly to begin with, for example running a thin bead of glue down the edge of a board and not spreading it out to cover the whole surface. If you simply let the mating board squeeze the glue out to where ever it will go there are going to be some parts to that union that will not get any glue on it at all. That is glue starvation. There is also the idiot factor. Just a few weeks ago a door at work needed repair as it was splitting in a few spots at the hinges. The cracks ran from the near the hinge to the door edge on both top an bottom. Heavy 40" door. I decided that it should be fixed by applying epoxy and clamping everything in place. One of the supervisors said he'd do it. I showed him where to clamp and gave him the package of two part epoxy. He read the instructions. Genius that he is, instead of mixing the two parts together, he figured he'd coat one side with part A, the other with part B and clamp them. That would be sufficient to mix them. He re-did the job the next day. Side note: the person that broke the door was suspended for three days. Sounds like some of the fence building companies in the Houston area. They dig the hole, pour the dry RediMix into the hole around the post and let nature do the rest. They believe that the moisture in the ground will cure the concrete. It is common to pour dry mix in the hole and add water, that works quite well especially in our clay soil. I replaced a fence 2 years ago and literally pulled the old posts out of the ground by hand. The concrete was cured on the top inch or so but it appeard to be fresh out of the bag below that level. |
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