Maple Bowl
 

This is the first piece I've been willing to post. There are some issues I
see but I think I'll see what you all have to say. Be kind but honest...

Maple Bowl
 

"Patrick" pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:

This is the first piece I've been willing to post. There are some issues I
see but I think I'll see what you all have to say. Be kind but honest...

Very nice figure


--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough

Maple Bowl
 

Is it melting?


On Fri, 28 Dec 2007 16:51:11 -0800, "Patrick"
pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:

This is the first piece I've been willing to post. There are some issues I
see but I think I'll see what you all have to say. Be kind but honest...

Maple Bowl
 

Does kinda doesn't it..

Here's a better look (and smaller pic.)


"bill" wrote in message
...
Is it melting?


On Fri, 28 Dec 2007 16:51:11 -0800, "Patrick"
pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:

This is the first piece I've been willing to post. There are some issues I
see but I think I'll see what you all have to say. Be kind but honest...

Maple Bowl
 

Patrick wrote:
Does kinda doesn't it..

Here's a better look (and smaller pic.)


"bill" wrote in message
...
Is it melting?


On Fri, 28 Dec 2007 16:51:11 -0800, "Patrick"
pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:

This is the first piece I've been willing to post. There are some issues I
see but I think I'll see what you all have to say. Be kind but honest...






Thanks for the smaller picture. I like the bowl. Not a ho-hum piece.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Tried to play my shoehorn... all I got
was footnotes!

Maple Bowl
 

Mark & Juanita wrote:
"Patrick" pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:

This is the first piece I've been willing to post. There are some issues I
see but I think I'll see what you all have to say. Be kind but honest...

Very nice figure


Pat, I take it you haven't done much turning.Overall its not bad. I
like the uneven top and the side contour. The base is to large in
diameter. A rule of thumb is to have the base 1/3 of the largest
diameter of the bowl. There appears to be some tear out inside the
bowl. This could be caused by a dull gouge or not riding the bevel
which could create chatter and give you an uneven cut. This could be
cleaned up by an "80 grit" gouge but would be easier during your initial
turning. Overall - good job.

Maple Bowl
 

Patrick, The only problem I have with it is that is that it didn't come from
my shop! Nice work and inclusion of the various colors of that maple. Each
to his own........I turned some change valets a couple of years ago and the
base was the full diameter of the bowl. Used three stick-on felt pads to
insure they would set flat. Does not fit mainline bowl turning but
recipients seemed to like them. In other words every tub sits on its own
bottom. Keep up the good work.
Lyndell

"Patrick" pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote in message
m...
Does kinda doesn't it..

Here's a better look (and smaller pic.)


"bill" wrote in message
...
Is it melting?


On Fri, 28 Dec 2007 16:51:11 -0800, "Patrick"
pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:

This is the first piece I've been willing to post. There are some issues
I
see but I think I'll see what you all have to say. Be kind but honest...

Maple Bowl
 

On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 13:32:02 -0800, "Patrick" pfischerATATATATWavecable.com
wrote:

I like it... base works for me, etc..
IMHO, there are no limitations to shape and size.. If you like it, someone else
will... That's the important part..

I find that when I get tearout, neither going over it with a sharp gouge or
sanding will really take care of it..
Best cure I've found so far is a light tough with a freshly sharpened scraper..



Does kinda doesn't it..

Here's a better look (and smaller pic.)


"bill" wrote in message
.. .
Is it melting?


On Fri, 28 Dec 2007 16:51:11 -0800, "Patrick"
pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:

This is the first piece I've been willing to post. There are some issues I
see but I think I'll see what you all have to say. Be kind but honest...






mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Maple Bowl
 

Thanks Ralph, this is the feedback I was looking for. I'll take the 1/3 rule
into the next piece. I've had my lathe about 6 months and have done no
turning prior to that. The tearout was pretty obvious but even 80 grit paper
couldn't seem to make it smooth. Can't see it in the photo but the opposite
side of the interior has the same problem. I'm working on sharpening skills
so end grain like that may not be so obvious next time. Thanks again.

Pat..

"Ralph" wrote in message
news:qGAdj.50884$5l3.41709@edtnps82...
Mark & Juanita wrote:
"Patrick" pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:

This is the first piece I've been willing to post. There are some issues
I
see but I think I'll see what you all have to say. Be kind but honest...

Very nice figure


Pat, I take it you haven't done much turning.Overall its not bad. I like
the uneven top and the side contour. The base is to large in diameter. A
rule of thumb is to have the base 1/3 of the largest diameter of the bowl.
There appears to be some tear out inside the bowl. This could be caused
by a dull gouge or not riding the bevel which could create chatter and
give you an uneven cut. This could be cleaned up by an "80 grit" gouge
but would be easier during your initial turning. Overall - good job.

Maple Bowl
 

Thank you Mac. As I noted in my response to Ralph above, sharpening is an
acquired skill in itself!

I'll work on the light touch and the scraper. So easy to catch on the
inside...

Pat..

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 13:32:02 -0800, "Patrick"
pfischerATATATATWavecable.com
wrote:

I like it... base works for me, etc..
IMHO, there are no limitations to shape and size.. If you like it, someone
else
will... That's the important part..

I find that when I get tearout, neither going over it with a sharp gouge
or
sanding will really take care of it..
Best cure I've found so far is a light tough with a freshly sharpened
scraper..



Does kinda doesn't it..

Here's a better look (and smaller pic.)


"bill" wrote in message
. ..
Is it melting?


On Fri, 28 Dec 2007 16:51:11 -0800, "Patrick"
pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:

This is the first piece I've been willing to post. There are some issues
I
see but I think I'll see what you all have to say. Be kind but honest...






mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Maple Bowl
 

On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 22:03:31 -0800, "Patrick" pfischerATATATATWavecable.com
wrote:

Thank you Mac. As I noted in my response to Ralph above, sharpening is an
acquired skill in itself!

I'll work on the light touch and the scraper. So easy to catch on the
inside...

Pat..

Pat.. I think a critical thing with scrapers is to have the right tool rest
height, which changes for different thickness scrapers..
Too high and they don't cut well, so you tend to tip the handle up and usually
put a groove in the wall...
Too low and you WILL put a groove in...
Lot of trial and error involved, like with all tools..

Just my personal preference, but I sharpen scrapers on a 1" belt sander...
I leave it set up at the angle of my scraper when the scraper is laying upside
down..
The theory is that you're not scraping with the edge, but with the burr created
when sharpening, so sharpening them "upside down" gives a longer burr..
Dunno the tech end of it, but it works for me..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Maple Bowl
 

"Patrick" pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:

Thanks Ralph, this is the feedback I was looking for. I'll take the 1/3
rule into the next piece. I've had my lathe about 6 months and have done
no turning prior to that. The tearout was pretty obvious but even 80 grit
paper couldn't seem to make it smooth. Can't see it in the photo but the
opposite side of the interior has the same problem. I'm working on
sharpening skills so end grain like that may not be so obvious next time.
Thanks again.

Don't know if you're using a sanding pad in a drill or not but they work
wonders on the tearout. Paste wax is your friend to - rub it onto the
tearout, then powersand it. The wax softens the wood and it sands out
quite nicely...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller, Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Registered Linux User No: 307357

Maple Bowl
 

Good thought Kevin. Wouldn't the wax impede any later finish though?
I've been using tung oil topped off with paste wax.

"Kevin Miller" wrote in message
...
"Patrick" pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:

Thanks Ralph, this is the feedback I was looking for. I'll take the 1/3
rule into the next piece. I've had my lathe about 6 months and have done
no turning prior to that. The tearout was pretty obvious but even 80 grit
paper couldn't seem to make it smooth. Can't see it in the photo but the
opposite side of the interior has the same problem. I'm working on
sharpening skills so end grain like that may not be so obvious next time.
Thanks again.

Don't know if you're using a sanding pad in a drill or not but they work
wonders on the tearout. Paste wax is your friend to - rub it onto the
tearout, then powersand it. The wax softens the wood and it sands out
quite nicely...

...Kevin
--
Kevin Miller, Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Registered Linux User No: 307357

Maple Bowl
 

"Patrick" pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:

Good thought Kevin. Wouldn't the wax impede any later finish though?
I've been using tung oil topped off with paste wax.

Nope - I was worried about the first time I did it too, but I usually start
with 80 or 120 grit and by the 150 it's long gone. Never had a problem
with any finish and I've used about everything from varnish, shellac,
lacquer, oils etc.

I do clean the sanding pads with a crepe sandpaper disk cleaner as the wax
will cake up in them, but it comes out easily.

S'later...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller, Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Registered Linux User No: 307357

Maple Bowl
 

Hey Patrick,
I like it.
You know by now that I am NOT a turner, barely a carver...
Even though others who are more knowledgable than I am have suggested the
ont third rule for the bace, I like the way it looks now. It appears to have
a nice ctable base so that it could be filled with fruits with no need to
worry about it tipping over.

The asymetrical shape is very appealing to me and I like the ripples you put
in the dark edge.

Nicely done as far as I can see.

Kate

"Patrick" pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote in message
...
This is the first piece I've been willing to post. There are some issues I
see but I think I'll see what you all have to say. Be kind but honest...

Maple Bowl
 

Thanks Kate,
Most of the posters pointed out the issues I knew I had with this piece. My
wife likes it and one day I'll look back and know exactly how to avoid those
same mistakes. Practice, practice,,,

Thanks also BTW for the suggestions on my later post with the glass chimney
and candle. That actually may be the best for that piece.

Again, I appreciate the feedback.

--
Patrick Fischer
Olalla, WA


"Kate" wrote in message
. ..
Hey Patrick,
I like it.
You know by now that I am NOT a turner, barely a carver...
Even though others who are more knowledgable than I am have suggested the
ont third rule for the bace, I like the way it looks now. It appears to
have
a nice ctable base so that it could be filled with fruits with no need to
worry about it tipping over.

The asymetrical shape is very appealing to me and I like the ripples you
put
in the dark edge.

Nicely done as far as I can see.

Kate

"Patrick" pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote in message
...
This is the first piece I've been willing to post. There are some issues I
see but I think I'll see what you all have to say. Be kind but honest...