Kate
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)

The shortest distance between two points,
can be a lot more fun in a Jeep!

"Kate" wrote in message
...


Kate
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)

The shortest distance between two points,
can be a lot more fun in a Jeep!

Kate wrote:
Kate
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)

The shortest distance between two points,
can be a lot more fun in a Jeep!



Can't see the pegs. Saved the jpg file and it was only 4 bytes size.
Must be some small pegs. :)

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

The large print giveth and the small
print taketh away.

On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 08:51:57 -0500, "Kate" wrote:


"Kate" wrote in message
.. .


Kate
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)

The shortest distance between two points,
can be a lot more fun in a Jeep!



They look good enough to play cribbage with, Kate... that was the objective,
right?

Beats the hell out of match sticks..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 08:51:57 -0500, "Kate" wrote:


Kate
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)

The shortest distance between two points,
can be a lot more fun in a Jeep!

hmm... and I was thinking it was a sternum..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Nice looking pegs! That's it! Now I'm going to have to make some too!
Don Brown
"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
Kate wrote:
Kate
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)

The shortest distance between two points,
can be a lot more fun in a Jeep!
Can't see the pegs. Saved the jpg file and it was only 4 bytes size. Must
be some small pegs. :)

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

The large print giveth and the small
print taketh away.

You mean the quickest way to a person's heart?

-MJ

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 08:51:57 -0500, "Kate" wrote:


Kate
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)

The shortest distance between two points,
can be a lot more fun in a Jeep!

hmm... and I was thinking it was a sternum..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Don Brown" wrote in message
t...
Nice looking pegs! That's it! Now I'm going to have to make some too!
Don Brown


You will prolly have a lot easier time than I did, like i said, I cut the
little square lengths, then put them in my Foredom handset....
Lots of wobbles and stuff. More than my share of frustration.

I would LOVE to have a little lathe for thse sorts of things.
Hell, I'd like to have a BIG lathe too for that matter.

--
Kate
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)

The shortest distance between two points,
can be a lot more fun in a Jeep!

Kate wrote:

| I would LOVE to have a little lathe for thse sorts of things.
| Hell, I'd like to have a BIG lathe too for that matter.

Kate...

Ok, why don't you /build/ a tiny lathe? A small electric motor with an
inverted cone or cup on the end of the shaft, a wooden bed, and a
wooden tailstock with a machine screw ground to capture the end of
your workpiece.

Plan to build more than one and design it so that you can replace
parts when you "find a better way".

Hmm - d'you suppose an old sewing machine motor with a foot control
would work?

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Hi Morris..
I hate to be a dummy here. I have tried to think of a way to do this but so
far I cannot seem to come up with a design that will work.
I really like the idea of a sewing machine motor with a foot pedal control.

For me where I am having the trouble is the stand, and the piece that should
tighten onto the piece to hold it in. and then turn...

If you have any brainstorms for this sort of thing, I would be tickled pink
to hear from you

Kate

Wash off the mud to reply

--
Kate
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)

The shortest distance between two points,
can be a lot more fun in a Jeep!



"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Kate wrote:

| I would LOVE to have a little lathe for thse sorts of things.
| Hell, I'd like to have a BIG lathe too for that matter.

Kate...

Ok, why don't you /build/ a tiny lathe? A small electric motor with an
inverted cone or cup on the end of the shaft, a wooden bed, and a
wooden tailstock with a machine screw ground to capture the end of
your workpiece.

Plan to build more than one and design it so that you can replace
parts when you "find a better way".

Hmm - d'you suppose an old sewing machine motor with a foot control
would work?

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Kate wrote:
"Don Brown" wrote in message
t...
Nice looking pegs! That's it! Now I'm going to have to make some too!
Don Brown


You will prolly have a lot easier time than I did, like i said, I cut the
little square lengths, then put them in my Foredom handset....
Lots of wobbles and stuff. More than my share of frustration.

I would LOVE to have a little lathe for thse sorts of things.
Hell, I'd like to have a BIG lathe too for that matter.

Many years ago I was doing jewelry as a hobby and needed a way to turn
small metal objects. I found a half-inch Jacobs chuck that would screw
onto the right shaft of my grinder. It is still there but I use it to
hold different burrs and bits.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

The large print giveth and the small
print taketh away.

"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
Kate wrote:
"Don Brown" wrote in message
t...
Nice looking pegs! That's it! Now I'm going to have to make some too!
Don Brown


You will prolly have a lot easier time than I did, like i said, I cut the
little square lengths, then put them in my Foredom handset....
Lots of wobbles and stuff. More than my share of frustration.

I would LOVE to have a little lathe for thse sorts of things.
Hell, I'd like to have a BIG lathe too for that matter.

Many years ago I was doing jewelry as a hobby and needed a way to turn
small metal objects. I found a half-inch Jacobs chuck that would screw
onto the right shaft of my grinder. It is still there but I use it to
hold different burrs and bits.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

The large print giveth and the small
print taketh away.

Funny thing... YEARS ago, I was a goldsmith.
I do have a couple of small Jacob's chucks, but nothing quite that big.
I never thought of using my grinder.... not a bad idea,
BUT
How would hold the wood?
Just clamp it into the chuck, or use something else?

Thanks

Kate

On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 08:17:07 -0500, "Kate" wrote:

Funny thing... YEARS ago, I was a goldsmith.
I do have a couple of small Jacob's chucks, but nothing quite that big.
I never thought of using my grinder.... not a bad idea,
BUT
How would hold the wood?
Just clamp it into the chuck, or use something else?

Thanks

Kate

Kate.. sometimes a "jam" chuck works well with small stuff..

If you can get one end fairly round, drill a hole about the size of you peg end
in a piece of scrap like a piece of broom handle while it's in the chuck...
preferable while it's turning and the drill isn't..
Taper the end of your work piece a bit and "jam" it in with a rubber mallet..
Start the grinder or whatever you're using and see how true the peg is running..
tap lightly to adjust and then turn away.. YMWV

I learned that trick here a few years ago.. *g*


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Kate" wrote in
news
Gerald wrote:
Many years ago I was doing jewelry as a hobby and needed a way to turn
small metal objects. I found a half-inch Jacobs chuck that would screw
onto the right shaft of my grinder. It is still there but I use it to
hold different burrs and bits.


He's suggesting that you use the Jacobs chuck to hold the workpiece. The
tool can be hand held, using some sort of a brace...

Think bowl turning for a minute.

Patriarch

Kate wrote:

| For me where I am having the trouble is the stand, and the piece
| that should tighten onto the piece to hold it in. and then turn...
|
| If you have any brainstorms for this sort of thing, I would be
| tickled pink to hear from you

If you're looking for someone who knows a little about building
lathes, I reckon I know as little as anyone... :-)

I like the idea of picking up an inexpensive used lathe, it's an
option I hadn't considered.

I also like the DIY approach. I'd guess that for something as light as
cribbage pegs, it should be possible to build a tiny lathe on a piece
of 3/4" ply. There needs to be a secure motor support, a toolrest, and
a tailstock with a center that lines up with the center of the motor
shaft.

I think I'd try a pair of gizmos "sorta like" the attached sketch -
one on the motor shaft, and one on a piece of all-thread through the
tailstock. I'd paint the cone at the motor end with something to
prevent work slippage (mix of grit and glue?) and the cone at the
tailstock end with something that promotes slippage (beeswax?).

You probably wouldn't want to turn anything much bigger than cribbage
pegs on something like this, but it might provide a really economical
way to get started and learn from experience what features you'd
really like to have in a factory machine...

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Patriarch wrote:
"Kate" wrote in
news
Gerald wrote:
Many years ago I was doing jewelry as a hobby and needed a way to turn
small metal objects. I found a half-inch Jacobs chuck that would screw
onto the right shaft of my grinder. It is still there but I use it to
hold different burrs and bits.


He's suggesting that you use the Jacobs chuck to hold the workpiece. The
tool can be hand held, using some sort of a brace...

Think bowl turning for a minute.

Patriarch
Thanks for helping me out. I had tried to reply but had a Seamonkey
glitch and couldn't, earlier.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

My ISP's news server is acting up and apparently marking all new
messages as "read" so I wasn't seeing them.

Kate:

Since you're to blame for my being trapped in the ZONE (the
Twilight Zone, not THE ZONE) doing cribbage pegs, I'd like to
send you some so they can haunt YOU. Please e-mail me to
arrange transport of some of these Devil Sticks.

From looking at your Poor Little Pegs, it appears that the ones
I've done are probably still too fat. A pic with something for
scale or some dimensions (bottom diameter, max diameter
and length) would be much appreciated.

And don't sell yourself short on those pegs. Given the method
you used - starting with small square blanks in a flex shaft,
just getting a small diameter tapered cylinder would be a challenge.
Cutting a bead on the end and some grooves must've tried your
patience.

You mentioned that you didn't have a small lathe nor a large lathe.
Do you have a lathe that'll take a four jaw chuck with "pin jaws"?
It's a LOT easier to turn small if you start with a bigger blank -
say 1/2" square, or better yet, 1/2" cylinders since they won't
flex when doing the delicate top half. Held solidly in a chuck
and nice and ridgid, you can sneak up on making a delicate tip,
finish it and continue "down" towards the tail stock end - where
you'eve still got plenty of meat - and ridgidity.

Doing these things sure will improve your tool control and force
you to let the edge (or "tip") make the cut rather than forcing
the cut since a tad too much "ooomph" leads to disaster - or at
least a mini-disaster.

Fun this turning thing.

charlie b

I'm afraid everyone's assuming that if you want to turn small
you need to start off with a small blank just a little thicker than
the piece you want to turn into a cribbage peg. Intuitively that
seems to make sense. Wrong, though intuitively it seems to
make sense.

What you need is plenty of rigidity so you can start at the
unsupported end, turning the delicate stuff without ANY
flexing of the rest of the blank. Flexing is the enemy because
it will cause intermitent contact between the cutting edge and the wood,
commonly called "chatter". Once it starts it's hard to stop.
If the already turned part is asymetric it'll wobble as it spins.
Even a little wobble will exacerbate the chatter problem as you
proceed towards the tail stock end of the piece.

mac davis suggestion to make micro tools - from an old
drill bit for example.

Again, intuitvely it seems to make sense. You want to turn
fine details so use small tools - right? But what you want
is a smaller included angle, not a smaller tool. If a 22 degree
included angle is too big for the cut, it doesn't matter how
thick the tool is. What you need is a smaller included angle,
say 15 degrees.

The other problem - at least for me - is that smaller tools
have shorter cutting edges. I want a longer cutting edge
so I can make long "rocking down into the piece" slicing cuts
to create a smooth vertical face
-- + +-------
\ |
\|

The funny thing about turning smaller and smaller is that
you can learn to make cuts you can use regardless of
size - on the cheap - and quickly. I would probably never
gotten all this practice on furniture sized stuff - too much
wood required, too much time to remove all that wood.

When it comes to tool control, turning small will get you
there quicker - at least for spindle type turning. And
if you have a catch, it's more like a catchette - not a
traumatic experience at all. And you're only out a little
piece of wood.

Turning is the Crack Cocaine of Woodworking.

charlie b

On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 17:28:43 -0700, charlieb wrote:

top posted because I'm too lazy to snip

For the starting size for small sizes, Charlie, I think it depends on what
you're turning them on...
Kate doesn't have a lathe, so her stock diameter is limited...
Most of my small stuff is turned in the 14" lathe, out of the bits and pieces of
tenons that were in the chuck when pieces were parted off...
Starting a project for a 1/4" dia pin with a 2 or 3" dia piece of stock is a
luxury that I appreciate greatly, knowing the not all have the equipment for
it..
And to think that when I bought the 1442, I thought it was a "big" lathe..lol

On the drill bit blanks, I might have misunderstood your purpose for them...
most folks go mini because they are trying to get into tight grooves or under
cut... You might try using an Oland tool with 1/4" or 3/8" bits...

I'm afraid everyone's assuming that if you want to turn small
you need to start off with a small blank just a little thicker than
the piece you want to turn into a cribbage peg. Intuitively that
seems to make sense. Wrong, though intuitively it seems to
make sense.

What you need is plenty of rigidity so you can start at the
unsupported end, turning the delicate stuff without ANY
flexing of the rest of the blank. Flexing is the enemy because
it will cause intermitent contact between the cutting edge and the wood,
commonly called "chatter". Once it starts it's hard to stop.
If the already turned part is asymetric it'll wobble as it spins.
Even a little wobble will exacerbate the chatter problem as you
proceed towards the tail stock end of the piece.

mac davis suggestion to make micro tools - from an old
drill bit for example.

Again, intuitvely it seems to make sense. You want to turn
fine details so use small tools - right? But what you want
is a smaller included angle, not a smaller tool. If a 22 degree
included angle is too big for the cut, it doesn't matter how
thick the tool is. What you need is a smaller included angle,
say 15 degrees.

The other problem - at least for me - is that smaller tools
have shorter cutting edges. I want a longer cutting edge
so I can make long "rocking down into the piece" slicing cuts
to create a smooth vertical face
-- + +-------
\ |
\|

The funny thing about turning smaller and smaller is that
you can learn to make cuts you can use regardless of
size - on the cheap - and quickly. I would probably never
gotten all this practice on furniture sized stuff - too much
wood required, too much time to remove all that wood.

When it comes to tool control, turning small will get you
there quicker - at least for spindle type turning. And
if you have a catch, it's more like a catchette - not a
traumatic experience at all. And you're only out a little
piece of wood.

Turning is the Crack Cocaine of Woodworking.

charlie b


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac:

I didn't realize Kate didn't have a lathe. The pegs she made,
without a lathe, are pretty impressive - and with an exacto
knife - very impressive. Can't imagine how she rolled the
bead on the top without some sort of steady rest. Amazing
ingenuity.

Kate:

I'd like to send you some of these things. Drop me an e-mail.

Be forewarned,
turning is addictive
and can get expensive
in both time
and money.

charlie b

On Thu, 23 Aug 2007 09:28:56 -0700, charlieb wrote:

mac:

I didn't realize Kate didn't have a lathe. The pegs she made,
without a lathe, are pretty impressive - and with an exacto
knife - very impressive. Can't imagine how she rolled the
bead on the top without some sort of steady rest. Amazing
ingenuity.

Kate:

I'd like to send you some of these things. Drop me an e-mail.

Be forewarned,
turning is addictive
and can get expensive
in both time
and money.

charlie b

Yeah, Charlie... I think she held them in the collet of a Dremel or such... very
creative!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing