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#1
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This may be a dumb question but.... Is there a good technique out there
for staining or dying just the sapwood to more closely match the heartwood in a board? Built a narrow table at MIL's request for displaying photos of the grandkids and great grandkids. I wanted to use walnut and cherry. Since walnut is virtually impossible to get locally, I usually end up looking for reasonable deals on ebay. This particular lot had some really strange heartwood/sapwood patterns. You can see a little of it on the table leg in the photo, but there is more not visible here. It is almost splotch-looking rather than running evenly with the grain. |
#2
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On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 09:55:17 -0500, "Charlie M. 1958"
wrote: This may be a dumb question but.... Is there a good technique out there for staining or dying just the sapwood to more closely match the heartwood in a board? Built a narrow table at MIL's request for displaying photos of the grandkids and great grandkids. I wanted to use walnut and cherry. Since walnut is virtually impossible to get locally, I usually end up looking for reasonable deals on ebay. This particular lot had some really strange heartwood/sapwood patterns. You can see a little of it on the table leg in the photo, but there is more not visible here. It is almost splotch-looking rather than running evenly with the grain. I have used Watco Danish oil with dark walnut to even out the sap wood on walnut. Mark http://home.mchsi.com/~xphome/ |
#3
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On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 11:06:53 -0500, Markem
wrote: On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 09:55:17 -0500, "Charlie M. 1958" wrote: This may be a dumb question but.... Is there a good technique out there for staining or dying just the sapwood to more closely match the heartwood in a board? _When_ I do this, I usually do it with diluted Solar Lux, slowly sneaking up on what I want. The Solar Lux can fade, but it still looks better than an unwanted extreme contrast. |
#4
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![]() "Charlie M. 1958" wrote in message ... This may be a dumb question but.... Is there a good technique out there for staining or dying just the sapwood to more closely match the heartwood in a board? Built a narrow table at MIL's request for displaying photos of the grandkids and great grandkids. I wanted to use walnut and cherry. Since walnut is virtually impossible to get locally, I usually end up looking for reasonable deals on ebay. This particular lot had some really strange heartwood/sapwood patterns. You can see a little of it on the table leg in the photo, but there is more not visible here. It is almost splotch-looking rather than running evenly with the grain. I've never tried it for heartwood, but Van Dyke Brown crystals are made from walnut husks. I read somewhere it will stain the heartwood to hide it. |
#5
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Nice table Charlie, Most walnut these days is steamed to get rid of color
variations . Preferences vary all over the place . Having been in the antique business years ago seems to me the variations of color and grain characteristics are the very thing that attracts people to fine antiques . major manufacturers these days want even color in their woods and straight grained woods so that the planer does not cause tear out , this with all the sythetic finish coats is why so many pieces are characterless and look like plastic woodgrained laminate . As a postscript, over time walnut will lighten naturally particularly if it is in a well lit environment. regards mjh "Charlie M. 1958" wrote in message ... This may be a dumb question but.... Is there a good technique out there for staining or dying just the sapwood to more closely match the heartwood in a board? Built a narrow table at MIL's request for displaying photos of the grandkids and great grandkids. I wanted to use walnut and cherry. Since walnut is virtually impossible to get locally, I usually end up looking for reasonable deals on ebay. This particular lot had some really strange heartwood/sapwood patterns. You can see a little of it on the table leg in the photo, but there is more not visible here. It is almost splotch-looking rather than running evenly with the grain. |
#6
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In article ,
"Charlie M. 1958" wrote: This may be a dumb question but.... Is there a good technique out there for staining or dying just the sapwood to more closely match the heartwood in a board? Normally I prefer to work with sapwood. So rather than trying to hide it (either with stain or with the way the board is cut) I try to make use of it. A friend had a stunning red cedar table that would have been boring as heck if it was all heartwood. -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by |
#7
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Ecnerwal wrote:
In article , "Charlie M. 1958" wrote: This may be a dumb question but.... Is there a good technique out there for staining or dying just the sapwood to more closely match the heartwood in a board? Normally I prefer to work with sapwood. So rather than trying to hide it (either with stain or with the way the board is cut) I try to make use of it. A friend had a stunning red cedar table that would have been boring as heck if it was all heartwood. Thanks to all who replied. I got some good tips, which I will try in the future, but mostly I have been convinced to appreciate each board "as is." |
#8
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Charlie M. 1958 wrote:
This may be a dumb question but.... Is there a good technique out there for staining or dying just the sapwood to more closely match the heartwood in a board? Built a narrow table at MIL's request for displaying photos of the grandkids and great grandkids. I wanted to use walnut and cherry. Since walnut is virtually impossible to get locally, I usually end up looking for reasonable deals on ebay. This particular lot had some really strange heartwood/sapwood patterns. You can see a little of it on the table leg in the photo, but there is more not visible here. It is almost splotch-looking rather than running evenly with the grain. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Have you ever tryed bleaching? There are several sold that do a wonderfull job. |
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