I know that this is more of an opinion question that technical, but I notice
that most of the goblets that I've seen on the web have a base of the same
diameter as the bowl, where mine seem to "feel" better with the base slightly
smaller than the bowl..

Just based on how they look turning, as I've never used one to drink out of..lol

I'm curious about the groups opinions, or maybe lack of same... maybe it's a
non-issue to most folks?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
I know that this is more of an opinion question that technical, but I notice
that most of the goblets that I've seen on the web have a base of the same
diameter as the bowl, where mine seem to "feel" better with the base slightly
smaller than the bowl..

Just based on how they look turning, as I've never used one to drink out of..lol

I'm curious about the groups opinions, or maybe lack of same... maybe it's a
non-issue to most folks?

Most of mine have the base either the same size, or (mostly
non-intentionally!) ever so slightly larger. That having been said,
taking a peek at many of our "real" wine glasses, many of them do in
fact have bases slightly smaller than the bowls, so who knows?

I'd imagine that with a base too much smaller than the bowl that they'd
look a little "unbalanced", somehow, especially when they have a short
stem. The longer the stem, the less you'd notice any slight
unintentional difference.
--
Alun Saunders

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
I know that this is more of an opinion question that technical, but I
notice
that most of the goblets that I've seen on the web have a base of the same
diameter as the bowl, where mine seem to "feel" better with the base
slightly
smaller than the bowl..

Just based on how they look turning, as I've never used one to drink out
of..lol

I'm curious about the groups opinions, or maybe lack of same... maybe it's
a
non-issue to most folks?


I like mine a tad smaller, but I don't put "feet' on my bowls, either. If
it's for looks only, go with what pleases you. If it's for possible use,
you have to either counterweight or counter leverage at the base. Awful lot
of "artsy" stuff barely stands on its own, but then again, that's all it has
to do.

mac davis wrote:
I know that this is more of an opinion question that technical, but I notice
that most of the goblets that I've seen on the web have a base of the same
diameter as the bowl, where mine seem to "feel" better with the base slightly
smaller than the bowl..

Just based on how they look turning, as I've never used one to drink out of..lol

I'm curious about the groups opinions, or maybe lack of same... maybe it's a
non-issue to most folks?

Agreed that a slightly smaller foot looks nicer generally than one that
is equal to or larger than the bowl.
I also have a fairly strong opinion on the shape of a goblet's base.
When I see a wooden goblet turned endgrain (as most of them are) that
has a flat base, turned thin, I wonder how long it will stand up without
breaking.
I opinionate that it is a mistake to emulate the shape of glass goblets
without taking into account the properties of wood and it's grain.
A conical shaped base is much stronger, and looks better to me--that's
my 2 pennies :-)

Ken Grunke
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/

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On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 08:48:50 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

I know that this is more of an opinion question that technical, but I notice
that most of the goblets that I've seen on the web have a base of the same
diameter as the bowl, where mine seem to "feel" better with the base slightly
smaller than the bowl..

Just based on how they look turning, as I've never used one to drink out of..lol

I'm curious about the groups opinions, or maybe lack of same... maybe it's a
non-issue to most folks?

Two points on this:

1) No doubt most people turn same-sized bowls/bases is because they
are using the maximum size of their stock.

2) If I turn a goblet that I know is being used for actual drinking, I
try to make a point of making the base at least a little larger than
the bowl, so it's not going to tip over as easily with a cargo of
liquid in it.

--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

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Ken Grunke wrote:
mac davis wrote:

I know that this is more of an opinion question that technical, but I
notice
that most of the goblets that I've seen on the web have a base of the
same
diameter as the bowl, where mine seem to "feel" better with the base
slightly
smaller than the bowl..

Just based on how they look turning, as I've never used one to drink
out of..lol

I'm curious about the groups opinions, or maybe lack of same... maybe
it's a
non-issue to most folks?


Agreed that a slightly smaller foot looks nicer generally than one that
is equal to or larger than the bowl.
I also have a fairly strong opinion on the shape of a goblet's base.
When I see a wooden goblet turned endgrain (as most of them are) that
has a flat base, turned thin, I wonder how long it will stand up without
breaking.
I opinionate that it is a mistake to emulate the shape of glass goblets
without taking into account the properties of wood and it's grain.
A conical shaped base is much stronger, and looks better to me--that's
my 2 pennies :-)

Ken Grunke
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/

Most of the goblets I make are from limb-wood, and I like to keep the
natural edge on both edges...so...usually the diameters are fairly
close. And since they're green-turned, I keep the base thin which helps
avoid spliting. But I donlt expect them to get used...decorative only. A
picture of some recent ones, from pear, is at:

http://www.randyrhine.com/images/pear_goblets.jpg

The one on the left has a coat of Waterlox on it. The others are
unfinished. They range from 8" to 13" tall.

randy

Check out http://www.bryandouglas.co.uk/silver...ts/goblets.htm
for how they have been making them for the last 200 years. Some are same
diameter as bowl, some are less.

I would say, "If it looks right - it is right,"

BillR

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
I know that this is more of an opinion question that technical, but I
notice
that most of the goblets that I've seen on the web have a base of the same
diameter as the bowl, where mine seem to "feel" better with the base
slightly
smaller than the bowl..

Just based on how they look turning, as I've never used one to drink out
of..lol

I'm curious about the groups opinions, or maybe lack of same... maybe it's
a
non-issue to most folks?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Randy Rhine wrote:



Most of the goblets I make are from limb-wood, and I like to keep the
natural edge on both edges...so...usually the diameters are fairly
close. And since they're green-turned, I keep the base thin which helps
avoid spliting. But I donlt expect them to get used...decorative only. A
picture of some recent ones, from pear, is at:

http://www.randyrhine.com/images/pear_goblets.jpg

Randy,
These goblets are top class, very nice--as is all your work. I went on
to look at the rest of your site, and see that you do multi-axis
turning. Can't decide which one I like best, probably the red gum box in
your Gallery section.

I'm producing on a limited basis a multi-axis chuck which attaches to a
4-jaw scroll chuck or faceplate, and can be seen at:

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/

Seems to me like you have the chuck situation well covered, though. I'm
curious to know what you use for the eccentric turnings--are they done
on your ornamental lathe? Looks like you have some tilt as well as
lateral adjustment. Escoulen chuck, maybe?

thanks,

Ken Grunke

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Randy Rhine wrote:



Most of the goblets I make are from limb-wood, and I like to keep the
natural edge on both edges...so...usually the diameters are fairly
close. And since they're green-turned, I keep the base thin which helps
avoid spliting. But I donlt expect them to get used...decorative only. A
picture of some recent ones, from pear, is at:

http://www.randyrhine.com/images/pear_goblets.jpg

Randy,
These goblets are top class, very nice--as is all your work. I went on
to look at the rest of your site, and see that you do multi-axis
turning. Can't decide which one I like best, probably the red gum box in
your Gallery section.

I'm producing on a limited basis a multi-axis chuck which attaches to a
4-jaw scroll chuck or faceplate, and can be seen at:

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/

Seems to me like you have the chuck situation well covered, though. I'm
curious to know what you use for the eccentric turnings--are they done
on your ornamental lathe? Looks like you have some tilt as well as
lateral adjustment. Escoulen chuck, maybe?

thanks,

Ken Grunke

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On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 12:25:53 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
I know that this is more of an opinion question that technical, but I
notice
that most of the goblets that I've seen on the web have a base of the same
diameter as the bowl, where mine seem to "feel" better with the base
slightly
smaller than the bowl..

Just based on how they look turning, as I've never used one to drink out
of..lol

I'm curious about the groups opinions, or maybe lack of same... maybe it's
a
non-issue to most folks?


I like mine a tad smaller, but I don't put "feet' on my bowls, either. If
it's for looks only, go with what pleases you. If it's for possible use,
you have to either counterweight or counter leverage at the base. Awful lot
of "artsy" stuff barely stands on its own, but then again, that's all it has
to do.

I see what you mean, George, but I'm not talking radically smaller... maybe 10%
or so?



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Ken Grunke wrote:
Randy Rhine wrote:



Most of the goblets I make are from limb-wood, and I like to keep the
natural edge on both edges...so...usually the diameters are fairly
close. And since they're green-turned, I keep the base thin which
helps avoid spliting. But I donlt expect them to get used...decorative
only. A picture of some recent ones, from pear, is at:

http://www.randyrhine.com/images/pear_goblets.jpg


Randy,
These goblets are top class, very nice--as is all your work. I went on
to look at the rest of your site, and see that you do multi-axis
turning. Can't decide which one I like best, probably the red gum box in
your Gallery section.

I'm producing on a limited basis a multi-axis chuck which attaches to a
4-jaw scroll chuck or faceplate, and can be seen at:

http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc/

Seems to me like you have the chuck situation well covered, though. I'm
curious to know what you use for the eccentric turnings--are they done
on your ornamental lathe? Looks like you have some tilt as well as
lateral adjustment. Escoulen chuck, maybe?

thanks,
Hi Ken,

Thanks for the comments. For most of the eccentric work, I just use a
Stronghold chuck ... then just insert it into the chuck at various
angles. This gives me tilt but doesn't do parallel axis like on your
attachment. When I want that, I take a two of the jaws out of the chuck,
rotate it, then put the jaws back in. And that holds the work at an
axis parallel to the original. But...it's pretty limited compared that
what can be done with yours. And dangerous because of those jaws
sticking out.

randy

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 12:25:53 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

I like mine a tad smaller, but I don't put "feet' on my bowls, either.
If
it's for looks only, go with what pleases you. If it's for possible use,
you have to either counterweight or counter leverage at the base. Awful
lot
of "artsy" stuff barely stands on its own, but then again, that's all it
has
to do.

I see what you mean, George, but I'm not talking radically smaller...
maybe 10%
or so?


Not radical, but what pleases my eye. May not work for yours. I have
sneaked a few washers in a modest recess and plugged for counterweight on
some I went a bit too radical on.

On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 08:05:47 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 12:25:53 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

I like mine a tad smaller, but I don't put "feet' on my bowls, either.
If
it's for looks only, go with what pleases you. If it's for possible use,
you have to either counterweight or counter leverage at the base. Awful
lot
of "artsy" stuff barely stands on its own, but then again, that's all it
has
to do.

I see what you mean, George, but I'm not talking radically smaller...
maybe 10%
or so?


Not radical, but what pleases my eye. May not work for yours. I have
sneaked a few washers in a modest recess and plugged for counterweight on
some I went a bit too radical on.

How about a thin brass disk with your name and info engraved on it, flush set in
a forstner hole?



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Bill R" wrote in message
...
Check out http://www.bryandouglas.co.uk/silver...ts/goblets.htm
for how they have been making them for the last 200 years. Some are same
diameter as bowl, some are less.

I would say, "If it looks right - it is right,"

BillR

Good link. I was looking for some info on candlestick designs and
proportions and this helped out.
Thanks

--
Martin
Long Island, New York

"Randy Rhine" wrote in message
...


Ken Grunke wrote:
mac davis wrote:
SNIP.............
Most of the goblets I make are from limb-wood, and I like to keep the
natural edge on both edges...so...usually the diameters are fairly close.
And since they're green-turned, I keep the base thin which helps avoid
spliting. But I donlt expect them to get used...decorative only. A picture
of some recent ones, from pear, is at:

http://www.randyrhine.com/images/pear_goblets.jpg

The one on the left has a coat of Waterlox on it. The others are
unfinished. They range from 8" to 13" tall.
========================
Randy,
I looked at your site. First, nice work, at reasonable prices! Second, a
question about your tops.
You have a wide range of top designs, from thin platter like discs to
smallwer diameter, more barrel or spherical shapes; which spin the best?
Does either shape have any stability or spin time advantages?

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

Ken Moon wrote:

========================
Randy,
I looked at your site. First, nice work, at reasonable prices! Second, a
question about your tops.
You have a wide range of top designs, from thin platter like discs to
smallwer diameter, more barrel or spherical shapes; which spin the best?
Does either shape have any stability or spin time advantages?

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX



Hi Ken,

The flattish ones seem to spin the best. But the main reason I tend to
make them that way is that there's more room for design effects.

randy