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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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damn, a bandsaw!
I'm not really sure how this happened, but the wife asked me to go to HD with
her last night... that's strange enough, right? We get there and she hands me a sheet of paper... it's an email confirmation of approval of a HD card that "I" applied for..lol She says something to the effect of "I'm going to look at lights and stuff, buy a bandsaw and quit whining about not having one.. (yep, I'm guilty as charged) Anyway, the closest thing that they had to a "real" bandsaw was a Ridgid, which I'm sort of wary of from posts here and the wRECk... it's a BS1400, and I sure hope that the BS stands for bandsaw... *g* Anyway, now that I have the beast and am 80% assembled, (1st thing I see is 40 carriage bolts..ugh), my main question is what I should watch out for as far as quality control, parts that should be upgraded for safety, etc... Second question is if anyone knows where I can find an affordable riser block for it.. least expensive I've found on the web so far is $155.. almost 1/2 the price of the saw! Any help or suggestions appreciated... I know that Ridgid sorta sucks, but it's better than no bandsaw (I hope) mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#2
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mac davis wrote:
Second question is if anyone knows where I can find an affordable riser block for it.. least expensive I've found on the web so far is $155.. almost 1/2 the price of the saw! It has been reported on "rec.woodworking" that the Grizzly riser block kit is a perfect fit for the Ridgid BS1400. The Grizzly kit is about $50. See the post by "grendelro" at: http://groups-beta.google.com/group/...5a556d24b8d2b9 -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply) |
#3
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Hi Mac Good show Mac (maybe not the best, but better than non). So this is the proverbial Squeaky Wheel ? (G) 80% assembled WHO, hold it right there !! Stop right there, go back to HD and get one of their band saw help books. whatever they have and read it, you will get some idea of how to line up the wheels, and set the blade guides and which ones to use etc., even if you don't buy a band saw tuning book you will get a better Idea of what to do and look for. I was going to advise what Jack is telling you, get the grizzly or other taiwanese made 14" band saw riser block set, I'm quite sure they are all using the same frame, (of course if you get it home and it does not fit the foregoing was never said by me.)%-^) Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo mac davis wrote: I'm not really sure how this happened, but the wife asked me to go to HD with her last night... that's strange enough, right? We get there and she hands me a sheet of paper... it's an email confirmation of approval of a HD card that "I" applied for..lol She says something to the effect of "I'm going to look at lights and stuff, buy a bandsaw and quit whining about not having one.. (yep, I'm guilty as charged) Anyway, the closest thing that they had to a "real" bandsaw was a Ridgid, which I'm sort of wary of from posts here and the wRECk... it's a BS1400, and I sure hope that the BS stands for bandsaw... *g* Anyway, now that I have the beast and am 80% assembled, (1st thing I see is 40 carriage bolts..ugh), my main question is what I should watch out for as far as quality control, parts that should be upgraded for safety, etc... Second question is if anyone knows where I can find an affordable riser block for it.. least expensive I've found on the web so far is $155.. almost 1/2 the price of the saw! Any help or suggestions appreciated... I know that Ridgid sorta sucks, but it's better than no bandsaw (I hope) mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#4
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If, as others are saying, that your saw is the same as the Grizzly 14",
I have had that saw for 20 years and it's still humming along. It may not have all the bells and whistles but it works just fine. Like lathes, there is always a better one that is more refined, but I think you will be happy with it. Elaphant from Taiwan makes them. That's what mine is and when I broke a part and emailed Elaphant they said to buy Grizzly parts--it's the same saw. Earl |
#5
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If, as others are saying, that your saw is the same as the Grizzly 14",
I have had that saw for 20 years and it's still humming along. It may not have all the bells and whistles but it works just fine. Like lathes, there is always a better one that is more refined, but I think you will be happy with it. Elaphant from Taiwan makes them. That's what mine is and when I broke a part and emailed Elaphant they said to buy Grizzly parts--it's the same saw. Earl |
#6
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why isn't a riser block just a piece of metal you machine to the proper
dimension? I needed a small one for my taiwan clone, so I cut some aluminum to size and bolted it in. What am I missing here? why would this be a $150 part? if all else fails, make one of wood, take to a machine shop and say "make me this as cheaply as possible" "mac davis" wrote in message news I'm not really sure how this happened, but the wife asked me to go to HD with -----------snip Second question is if anyone knows where I can find an affordable riser block for it.. least expensive I've found on the web so far is $155.. almost 1/2 the price of the saw! Any help or suggestions appreciated... I know that Ridgid sorta sucks, but it's better than no bandsaw (I hope) mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#7
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"mac davis" wrote in message news SNIP.......... Second question is if anyone knows where I can find an affordable riser block for it.. least expensive I've found on the web so far is $155.. almost 1/2 the price of the saw! ================================== Mac, Ridgid makes (or did at one time) a riser block kit for their 14 inch BS. I bought one about 5 years ago for my Emerson built Craftsman. I don't recall the price right off hand, but it seems it was around $50.00. Got it at Home Depot. It came with the longer guide holder and some misc other hardware. Try there before paying postage for a Griz. Ken Moon Webberville, TX |
#8
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"william_b_noble" wrote in message news:1107586009.f149e012b83ffdeae486c05befe046e9@t eranews... why isn't a riser block just a piece of metal you machine to the proper dimension? I needed a small one for my taiwan clone, so I cut some aluminum to size and bolted it in. What am I missing here? why would this be a $150 part? if all else fails, make one of wood, take to a machine shop and say "make me this as cheaply as possible" Of course the rest of the kit, which is the safety equipment, is normally included. Lemme see - two hours getting and delivering specs, driving to and from machine shop .... I'd rather be at the lathe, thank you. |
#9
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william_b_noble wrote:
why isn't a riser block just a piece of metal you machine to the proper dimension? I needed a small one for my taiwan clone, so I cut some aluminum to size and bolted it in. What am I missing here? why would this be a $150 part? if all else fails, make one of wood, take to a machine shop and say "make me this as cheaply as possible" The kit includes the riser block, a longer bolt to install the riser, an extended guide bar, an extended blade guard for both sides of the saw and a longer blade. -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply) |
#10
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On Fri, 04 Feb 2005 15:05:34 -0500, Nova wrote:
mac davis wrote: Second question is if anyone knows where I can find an affordable riser block for it.. least expensive I've found on the web so far is $155.. almost 1/2 the price of the saw! It has been reported on "rec.woodworking" that the Grizzly riser block kit is a perfect fit for the Ridgid BS1400. The Grizzly kit is about $50. See the post by "grendelro" at: http://groups-beta.google.com/group/...5a556d24b8d2b9 Cool.. thanks for the lead, I'll check it out.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#11
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On Fri, 04 Feb 2005 15:56:06 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote: Hi Mac Good show Mac (maybe not the best, but better than non). So this is the proverbial Squeaky Wheel ? (G) 80% assembled WHO, hold it right there !! Stop right there, go back to HD and get one of their band saw help books. whatever they have and read it, you will get some idea of how to line up the wheels, and set the blade guides and which ones to use etc., even if you don't buy a band saw tuning book you will get a better Idea of what to do and look for. I was going to advise what Jack is telling you, get the grizzly or other taiwanese made 14" band saw riser block set, I'm quite sure they are all using the same frame, (of course if you get it home and it does not fit the foregoing was never said by me.)%-^) Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo oh, the assembly was fun, Leo... In fact, it made the assembly of the HF dust collector quick & easy *g* I spent a LOT of time with in last night, setting, aligning, resetting, etc.... damn, there sure are a lot of adjustments on these things, and half of them are under the damn table.. I wanted the delta, and am already wondering after one night of use if the 3/4 HP is going to do what I want... OTOH, this one is instant gratification and there's no interest and payments for a year... OH, and we also got another 10% off for first use of the card, or something like that... with the saw, an extra blade (1/2") and a few things that the boss picked up, the10% was over 60 bucks.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#12
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On 4 Feb 2005 21:20:04 -0800, "Earl" wrote:
If, as others are saying, that your saw is the same as the Grizzly 14", I have had that saw for 20 years and it's still humming along. It may not have all the bells and whistles but it works just fine. Like lathes, there is always a better one that is more refined, but I think you will be happy with it. Elaphant from Taiwan makes them. That's what mine is and when I broke a part and emailed Elaphant they said to buy Grizzly parts--it's the same saw. Earl cool. Earl... maybe I can get it to move logs with it's trunk!! Is your griz 3/4 hp? mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#13
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On Fri, 4 Feb 2005 22:54:12 -0800, "william_b_noble" wrote:
why isn't a riser block just a piece of metal you machine to the proper dimension? I needed a small one for my taiwan clone, so I cut some aluminum to size and bolted it in. What am I missing here? why would this be a $150 part? if all else fails, make one of wood, take to a machine shop and say "make me this as cheaply as possible" The manual is out in the shop, but the "kit" has the block, blade, some additional rollers and guides, I think.... But $150 to make a $350 saw cut 12" is overkill.. hell, I don't think I'd try anything that big with a 3/4 hp 14" saw.. I'd be old enough to retire before it resawed a 2 foot log..*g* mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#14
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On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 09:46:43 GMT, "Ken Moon" wrote:
"mac davis" wrote in message news SNIP.......... Second question is if anyone knows where I can find an affordable riser block for it.. least expensive I've found on the web so far is $155.. almost 1/2 the price of the saw! ================================== Mac, Ridgid makes (or did at one time) a riser block kit for their 14 inch BS. I bought one about 5 years ago for my Emerson built Craftsman. I don't recall the price right off hand, but it seems it was around $50.00. Got it at Home Depot. It came with the longer guide holder and some misc other hardware. Try there before paying postage for a Griz. Ken Moon Webberville, TX Ken.. the Ridgid riser kit (bs5005 or something) is $160 from Ridged and $153.00 at one of the web tool places.. Amazon doesn't have the kit OR the saw, so that tells me something about Ridged.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#15
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Hi Mac Does your saw have that stupid 45 Degree, hanging motor setup as well ?? Boy what a pain, that was, I changed that on mine, with a plywood shelf and a big door hinge, don't have no hassle with lining up and tightening the belt anymore. I wasn't to impressed with my band saw at first, and used it not to often. Then when I had broken another band and then talked to a vendor at the local wood show, he asked what I was using my saw for, so I told him that I used it mainly for cutting wet wood for making turning blanks. So he goes to his rack gets a band saw blade and says this is the blade you need, so he gave me a Swedish silicon steel band saw blade, it's a furniture band .032" thick, 3 tpi and extra wide set, it is called (The Carver"s & Turner"s band), boy did that ever make a difference. As it happens my wife and I went to the Chatham-Kent woodworking show today and I bought a spare band saw blade from the same vendor, paid $13.65 Can. plus GST and PST taxes for a total $15.70 Can. The one that I got on now has a slight bumpedy bump in it. G (probably one of them gnomes been sawing round wood on it, wouldn't know how else it happened) G Anyway the main message is get a good blade it makes al the difference in the world. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo mac davis wrote: oh, the assembly was fun, Leo... In fact, it made the assembly of the HF dust collector quick & easy *g* I spent a LOT of time with in last night, setting, aligning, resetting, etc.... damn, there sure are a lot of adjustments on these things, and half of them are under the damn table.. I wanted the delta, and am already wondering after one night of use if the 3/4 HP is going to do what I want... OTOH, this one is instant gratification and there's no interest and payments for a year... OH, and we also got another 10% off for first use of the card, or something like that... with the saw, an extra blade (1/2") and a few things that the boss picked up, the10% was over 60 bucks.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#16
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Isn't Ridgid basically the Home Depot brand? At least I haven't seen it
elsewhere. Derek (mac wrote below here) Ken.. the Ridgid riser kit (bs5005 or something) is $160 from Ridged and $153.00 at one of the web tool places.. Amazon doesn't have the kit OR the saw, so that tells me something about Ridged.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#17
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"Derek Hartzell" wrote in message ... Isn't Ridgid basically the Home Depot brand? At least I haven't seen it elsewhere. Correct. Formerly Emerson Electric, now, I believe, Ryobi OEM. at one of the web tool places.. Amazon doesn't have the kit OR the saw, so that tells me something about Ridged.. mac |
#18
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Mac, my Elaphant, ala Grizzly, is 3/4 hp. Don't know why anybody
wouldn't just buy the Grizzly riser kit for $50. It's got everything you need. I've been thinking about it but my old style guide post holder is different than the new ones and I need to figure out to adapt it. My post is octagon and the newer ones are round. Earl |
#19
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On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 23:53:14 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote: Hi Mac Does your saw have that stupid 45 Degree, hanging motor setup as well ?? Boy what a pain, that was, I changed that on mine, with a plywood shelf and a big door hinge, don't have no hassle with lining up and tightening the belt anymore. No, after assembling the stand (grumble) you set the "bandsaw" on it and bolt to stand, then bolt the motor on behind it, on rubber grommets.. I wasn't to impressed with my band saw at first, and used it not to often. Then when I had broken another band and then talked to a vendor at the local wood show, he asked what I was using my saw for, so I told him that I used it mainly for cutting wet wood for making turning blanks. So he goes to his rack gets a band saw blade and says this is the blade you need, so he gave me a Swedish silicon steel band saw blade, it's a furniture band .032" thick, 3 tpi and extra wide set, it is called (The Carver"s & Turner"s band), boy did that ever make a difference. I was underwhelmed with mine for 2 reasons... couldn't get it to cut a straight line (even with shop made fence) and it seemed under powered when cutting over 3 or 4 " stock... I finally decided that it wasn't a setup or alignment problem and changed to the 1/2" 4 tpi blade that I bought... I wanted to start with this blade, but the saw came with the 1/4" one installed already... *sigh* The 1/2" blade makes a world of difference... cuts are straight, motor doesn't bog down, etc... Practiced turning firewood into bowl and box blanks yesterday and it was awesome! As it happens my wife and I went to the Chatham-Kent woodworking show today and I bought a spare band saw blade from the same vendor, paid $13.65 Can. plus GST and PST taxes for a total $15.70 Can. The one that I got on now has a slight bumpedy bump in it. G (probably one of them gnomes been sawing round wood on it, wouldn't know how else it happened) G Anyway the main message is get a good blade it makes al the difference in the world. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo I'll do that.. I had no idea that they were so inexpensive! The night that I bought the saw, 1/2" was the meanest blade that they had... (all they had in my size were Ridgid brand) I'll find a couple of 3/4" blades in a better quality this week... thanks again, Leo! mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#20
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On Sun, 6 Feb 2005 11:38:43 -0800, "Derek Hartzell"
wrote: Isn't Ridgid basically the Home Depot brand? At least I haven't seen it elsewhere. Derek It could be, Derek... to be honest, the only time I've heard about Ridgid is in this group or the wRECk... mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#21
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On 6 Feb 2005 15:35:01 -0800, "Earl" wrote:
Mac, my Elaphant, ala Grizzly, is 3/4 hp. Don't know why anybody wouldn't just buy the Grizzly riser kit for $50. It's got everything you need. I've been thinking about it but my old style guide post holder is different than the new ones and I need to figure out to adapt it. My post is octagon and the newer ones are round. Earl I decided to order the griz one... Before I changed blades, I was thinking that adding 6" to the cutting ability of a saw that bogs down on 4" firewood was throwing money away, but now I'll order the griz kit and make it work, one way or the other.. *g* mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#22
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mac davis wrote in
: snip I'll do that.. I had no idea that they were so inexpensive! The night that I bought the saw, 1/2" was the meanest blade that they had... (all they had in my size were Ridgid brand) I'll find a couple of 3/4" blades in a better quality this week... thanks again, Leo! The shop that sharpens blades for 'the trade' in your area can probably make up bandsaw blades for you, quickly, economically, and pretty much to your requirements. Check to see if your saw will track or tension a 3/4" blade. Wider isn't always better. Patriarch |
#23
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Hi Mack
I would not get the 3/4" blades, those small saws we have are not build for the wider blades, it also takes away more power from a saw that is already marginally powered, and to saw bowl blanks and the like you'd have a hard time making the curve with a wide blade, stay with the 3/8 or 1/2" blades I would think that is the best size for our use. I have a mail order address from my saw blade vendor, You can have a look, gives you some idea of the stuff that's around, and prices, you probably will be able to get the same stuff closer by. www.tufftooth.com Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo mac davis wrote: I'll do that.. I had no idea that they were so inexpensive! The night that I bought the saw, 1/2" was the meanest blade that they had... (all they had in my size were Ridgid brand) I'll find a couple of 3/4" blades in a better quality this week... thanks again, Leo! mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#24
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"mac davis" wrote in message news On Sun, 6 Feb 2005 11:38:43 -0800, "Derek Hartzell" wrote: Isn't Ridgid basically the Home Depot brand? At least I haven't seen it elsewhere. Derek It could be, Derek... to be honest, the only time I've heard about Ridgid is in this group or the wRECk... mac Rigid has for years "owned" the market in pipe threading power vices and pipe cutting tools for the construction industry. (Plumbers, Electricians, Steamfitters, cut and thread heavy wall pipe which is commonly known as rigid pipe or conduit ) I don't know exactly when they ventured into wood working tools, it may well be that they partnered w/ Home Depot, Rigid is a well respected name in the construction trades, don't know anything about the quality of their woodworking equipment. Dan |
#25
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"Dan Williams" wrote in
news snip Rigid has for years "owned" the market in pipe threading power vices and pipe cutting tools for the construction industry. (Plumbers, Electricians, Steamfitters, cut and thread heavy wall pipe which is commonly known as rigid pipe or conduit ) I don't know exactly when they ventured into wood working tools, it may well be that they partnered w/ Home Depot, Rigid is a well respected name in the construction trades, don't know anything about the quality of their woodworking equipment. Home Depot licensed the Ridgid name and controls the specifications and products on which they appear. The tools manufacture is sourced at various times from different vendors. I have had reasonably good experience with their products. However, no product line is completely consistent across all products. Patriarch |
#26
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Hi Dan
That's where I know the name from also, high quality tools. I suppose that the company got bought out and the name is now used on all kinds off tools and machinery, quality does not seem to be as before, more like all that other low cost chiwanese import. Greediness seems the al compassing force. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo Dan Williams wrote: Rigid has for years "owned" the market in pipe threading power vices and pipe cutting tools for the construction industry. (Plumbers, Electricians, Steamfitters, cut and thread heavy wall pipe which is commonly known as rigid pipe or conduit ) I don't know exactly when they ventured into wood working tools, it may well be that they partnered w/ Home Depot, Rigid is a well respected name in the construction trades, don't know anything about the quality of their woodworking equipment. Dan |
#27
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Leo Van Der Loo wrote:
Hi Dan That's where I know the name from also, high quality tools. I suppose that the company got bought out and the name is now used on all kinds off tools and machinery, quality does not seem to be as before, more like all that other low cost chiwanese import. Greediness seems the al compassing force. When Home Depot introduced the Ridgid line of power tools in 2003 the tools were made by Emerson Electric, a subsidiary of Ridgid Tools (Emerson used to make the Craftsman line of tools for Sears until a few years ago). About a year ago Emerson dropped most of the Ridgid power tool for Home Depot with the exception on the shop vacuum. Ridgid licensed the Ridgid name to Home Depot. The majority (35) of Home Depot's Ridgid tool line is now made by Techtronic Industries Co. Ltd. who own, among others, Ryobi and recently bought Milwaukee Tools. -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply) |
#28
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On Mon, 7 Feb 2005 17:54:09 -0600, "Dan Williams" wrote:
"mac davis" wrote in message news On Sun, 6 Feb 2005 11:38:43 -0800, "Derek Hartzell" wrote: Isn't Ridgid basically the Home Depot brand? At least I haven't seen it elsewhere. Derek It could be, Derek... to be honest, the only time I've heard about Ridgid is in this group or the wRECk... mac Rigid has for years "owned" the market in pipe threading power vices and pipe cutting tools for the construction industry. (Plumbers, Electricians, Steamfitters, cut and thread heavy wall pipe which is commonly known as rigid pipe or conduit ) I don't know exactly when they ventured into wood working tools, it may well be that they partnered w/ Home Depot, Rigid is a well respected name in the construction trades, don't know anything about the quality of their woodworking equipment. Dan INTERESTING! Maybe the same company that I've been buying pipe wrenches from forever... never occurred to me that it could be the same company! mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#29
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On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 11:41:10 -0600, Patriarch
wrote: mac davis wrote in : snip I'll do that.. I had no idea that they were so inexpensive! The night that I bought the saw, 1/2" was the meanest blade that they had... (all they had in my size were Ridgid brand) I'll find a couple of 3/4" blades in a better quality this week... thanks again, Leo! The shop that sharpens blades for 'the trade' in your area can probably make up bandsaw blades for you, quickly, economically, and pretty much to your requirements. Check to see if your saw will track or tension a 3/4" blade. Wider isn't always better. Patriarch Yep.. it recommends 3/4" for resawing on the inside of the top pulley cover, and again in the manual.. I used to have blades welded years ago and forgot about that.. different saw, marriage and area.. (I was in the SF bay area then) mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#30
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On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 17:16:39 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote: Hi Mack I would not get the 3/4" blades, those small saws we have are not build for the wider blades, it also takes away more power from a saw that is already marginally powered, and to saw bowl blanks and the like you'd have a hard time making the curve with a wide blade, stay with the 3/8 or 1/2" blades I would think that is the best size for our use. I have a mail order address from my saw blade vendor, You can have a look, gives you some idea of the stuff that's around, and prices, you probably will be able to get the same stuff closer by. www.tufftooth.com Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo yeah, the 1/2" blade will cut a pretty tight curve, but the 3/4" one will cut a 7 or 8" circle.. might try a 3/4 when i get more logs, and see if there is an improvement or just bogs it down.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#31
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Hey, Mac, if you are still following this thread (it's getting pretty
old now) if your 3/4 horse is bogging down on 4'" firewood, it's the blade. I used to have that problem, too, and bought a good blade from Grizzly when I bought the repair part I needed and the saw ran like I couldn't believe it. I had read alot of times about buying good blades and kept picking blades up at Home Depot--now I know a good blade!.I just ran a full 6" piece of dry madrone through the saw and as long as I didn't push too hard, it went through it like butter. Earl |
#32
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On 7 Feb 2005 22:43:02 -0800, "Earl" wrote:
Hey, Mac, if you are still following this thread (it's getting pretty old now) if your 3/4 horse is bogging down on 4'" firewood, it's the blade. I used to have that problem, too, and bought a good blade from Grizzly when I bought the repair part I needed and the saw ran like I couldn't believe it. I had read alot of times about buying good blades and kept picking blades up at Home Depot--now I know a good blade!.I just ran a full 6" piece of dry madrone through the saw and as long as I didn't push too hard, it went through it like butter. Earl I follow 'em all, Earl, especially the ones that I start... getting one hell of a "webucation"... The saw bogged badly but it was mostly operator error... when I changed from the 1/4" or whatever the saw came with, (I got lazy, since it came with the blade installed), and put the 1/2" blade on (still Ridgid) the problems went away.. After further reading, i think the main difference was not just the blade size, but the TPI... less teeth, faster cut.. I don't know what the factory 1/4" blade was, but the 1/2" is 4 TPI and the old one must have been at least twice that many.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
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