Which bench grinder??
 

Have an old grinder that has seen better days, it has 6" wheels. Have a
Jet 1014 on order.
Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome. Thanks in
advance.

"Rick Samuel" wrote in message
...
Have an old grinder that has seen better days, it has 6" wheels. Have a
Jet 1014 on order.
Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome. Thanks in
advance.

I know a lot won't agree with me but I'd replace it with a standard speed
(3450rpm) 6" grinder with white wheels.
billh

Forget the low speed wet grinder.....at least for sharpening woodturning
tools. Instead go for a slo-speed 8" grinder (Woodcraft has a decent one
for $100) and a Oneway Wolverine grinding jig. The wet grinder may sound
like a good idea, and in concept it is, but it is just too slow, unless you
want to spend most of your time grinding instead of turning.

Barry


"Rick Samuel" wrote in message
...
Have an old grinder that has seen better days, it has 6" wheels. Have a
Jet 1014 on order.
Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome. Thanks in
advance.

I don't agree. The low speed grinders are also slow speed grinders.
Grinding will take so long that you will avoid doing it when you should.

Get a 3400 rpm grinder and a either buy a jig system or build one. The
Oneway system is good. Get some good white or blue wheels and learn how
to grind with a light touch.

Many suggest using a 1700 rpm grinder. Maybe it would be good to start
with but you will get frustrated with the wasted time after you know how
to grind. There are several dual speed grinders out there.

As to wheels -- my find wheel is 80 grit and the roughing wheel is 36.
Some would say that is too coarse but it works for me.

As to size -- I grind on a 7" Baldor. For many years I ground on an
inexpensive 8" grinder with 7" wheels.

Bill

Rick Samuel wrote:
Have an old grinder that has seen better days, it has 6" wheels. Have a
Jet 1014 on order.
Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome. Thanks in
advance.

Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome.

Take a look at the 8" grinder offered by Woodcraft. It runs at 1750 rpm and
sells for under $100. The ability to sharpen your tools properly is one of
the most important phases of woodturning. Either learn to do it properly by
hand or get a jig like the Oneway Wolverine. I don't think you will regret
it.

Hope this helps.

I have a 1700 rpm grinder and you are right; this is why my next one is
3450rpm. I also agree with your comments on using a jig. I learned to
freehand my tools and got fairly good at it. Bought a Oneway Vari-grind jig
and I can touch up the edge with a minimum of lost material but even better,
the grind is always consistent.
billh

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
m...
I don't agree. The low speed grinders are also slow speed grinders.
Grinding will take so long that you will avoid doing it when you should.

Get a 3400 rpm grinder and a either buy a jig system or build one. The
Oneway system is good. Get some good white or blue wheels and learn how
to grind with a light touch.

Many suggest using a 1700 rpm grinder. Maybe it would be good to start
with but you will get frustrated with the wasted time after you know how
to grind. There are several dual speed grinders out there.

As to wheels -- my find wheel is 80 grit and the roughing wheel is 36.
Some would say that is too coarse but it works for me.

As to size -- I grind on a 7" Baldor. For many years I ground on an
inexpensive 8" grinder with 7" wheels.

Bill

Rick Samuel wrote:
Have an old grinder that has seen better days, it has 6" wheels. Have a
Jet 1014 on order.
Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome. Thanks in
advance.

I still have one of the slow speed grinders from Woodcraft. It will
teach you how to use a light touch, because if you use any pressure, it
will slow down. After getting my CBN grinding wheels, I got a Baldor 8
inch grinder through Kaman Industrian Tech. Other bearing/electric
motor companies may carry them. I can bear down as hard as I want, and
the motor doest't slow down a bit. Also, it runs so smoothly that it
doesn't have to be bolted or clamped down to the bench. It is also very
quiet. The Woodcraft grinder now has the rough grinding wheels on it
(30 and 60 grit) and is used only for rough shaping. The Baldor has 80
and 320 grit wheels. I use the Elsworth jig for my spindle and bowl
gouges, and a Veritas rest for my scrapers. At present this is all I
need, but I reserve the right to change my mind at any time in the
future.
robo hippy





















Harry B. Pye wrote:
Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low
speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome.

Take a look at the 8" grinder offered by Woodcraft. It runs at 1750
rpm and
sells for under $100. The ability to sharpen your tools properly is
one of
the most important phases of woodturning. Either learn to do it
properly by
hand or get a jig like the Oneway Wolverine. I don't think you will
regret
it.

Hope this helps.

Hi Rick

Keep your grinder, you might replace one of your wheels with a new
aluminium oxide wheel and buy or build a sharpening jig, platform.
Have a look at Darrell Feltmate's site, he's got some good hints, ideas.

http://www.aroundthewoods.com/sharp.shtml

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Rick Samuel wrote:

Have an old grinder that has seen better days, it has 6" wheels. Have a
Jet 1014 on order.
Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome. Thanks in
advance.

In article ,
"Rick Samuel" wrote:

Have an old grinder that has seen better days, it has 6" wheels. Have a
Jet 1014 on order.
Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome. Thanks in
advance.

Well, I just can't resist adding one more bit of 2 cents to the
discussion:

I have a 1750rpm Delta 8" grinder that works well for all my grinding
and general sharpening needs. It's equipped with Camel 36 grit and 80
grit wheels. The 36 makes fairly short work of major repairs or shape
changes while the 80 works well for the touchups and other 95% of my
grinder use. (The 120 white Delta wheel is just too fine for my
techniques and I end up with too much tool heat and a frequently loaded
wheel.)

*If* I had the budjet I'd consider one of the slow speed sharpeners like
the Tormek - *in addition to* the medium speed I already own. The edge
created is super sharp (the more I turn, the more I appreciate a honed
edge when finessing a turning's shape and surface quality) and it would
certainly come in handy for honing the household scissors and knives as
well. (I've been eyeing the motor & leather belt setup from Lee Valley
for a while now - and may go that route.)

One can pick up relatively inexpensive 8" med. speed (1750-ish) grinders
like the Woodcraft for $75-$100. I think you definitely need one of the
medium or fast (3450-ish) grinders for repairs, reshapes and initial
sharpening. After that either a wet wheeled sharpener, leather belt or
hand hones will bring the tool edge to fine sharpness.

--
"Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised
as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long

"Rick Samuel" wrote in message
...
Have an old grinder that has seen better days, it has 6" wheels. Have a
Jet 1014 on order.
Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome. Thanks in
advance.


Something with good bearings that runs true. I wouldn't (actually, don't)
keep water around the woodshop unless I had a far corner, which would make
it pretty inconvenient. My Makita comes out to do planer or jointer knives,
jazz the plane irons, then back into the box. Makes a lovely edge.

Two ways of getting steel off the bar - grit and speed. For general shop
use, the slow speed is certainly more useful for carbon steel in chisels,
plane irons and such. Just put the coarse wheel on, or use the belt sander
when the axe or lawnmower needs work. It's also going to remove less per
second than the high speed if you use the wheel rather than the hone to
freshen your edges. Since it's slow speed, you won't need one of those
soft wheels that dish when you look at them cross-eyed and disappear rapidly
as you try to dress them back into usefulness.

Workshop grinders are one place where size really doesn't seem to matter.

I agree with you! The 6" 3400 RPM is a great choice!

Ray


"billh" wrote in message
.. .

"Rick Samuel" wrote in message
...
Have an old grinder that has seen better days, it has 6" wheels. Have a
Jet 1014 on order.
Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome. Thanks in
advance.

I know a lot won't agree with me but I'd replace it with a standard speed
(3450rpm) 6" grinder with white wheels.
billh

If you have to even think about bearing down on a tool while
grinding.....something is wrong. The wheel is too fine.........the wheel
needs to be dressed........someone turned your grinder off while you weren't
looking......... :-)

Barry


"robo hippy" wrote in message
ups.com...
I still have one of the slow speed grinders from Woodcraft. It will
teach you how to use a light touch, because if you use any pressure, it
will slow down. After getting my CBN grinding wheels, I got a Baldor 8
inch grinder through Kaman Industrian Tech. Other bearing/electric
motor companies may carry them. I can bear down as hard as I want, and
the motor doest't slow down a bit. Also, it runs so smoothly that it
doesn't have to be bolted or clamped down to the bench. It is also very
quiet. The Woodcraft grinder now has the rough grinding wheels on it
(30 and 60 grit) and is used only for rough shaping. The Baldor has 80
and 320 grit wheels. I use the Elsworth jig for my spindle and bowl
gouges, and a Veritas rest for my scrapers. At present this is all I
need, but I reserve the right to change my mind at any time in the
future.
robo hippy





















Harry B. Pye wrote:
Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low
speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome.

Take a look at the 8" grinder offered by Woodcraft. It runs at 1750
rpm and
sells for under $100. The ability to sharpen your tools properly is
one of
the most important phases of woodturning. Either learn to do it
properly by
hand or get a jig like the Oneway Wolverine. I don't think you will
regret
it.

Hope this helps.

In article ,
Bill Rubenstein wrote:

or consider buying what I did, a delta variable speed 6", it totaled up
at 12(CAN, which is under 100$ or thereabouts.
it runs from 2200-3340rpm with a wheel you turn to adjust speed, built
in light on a moveable neck, and the wheels it comes with are good
enough to avoid the extra 30$ for a new one, it has a coarser grey on
the right, and finer white on the left, also comes with a dressing tool
that is one of the stick types.
I run it about 3/4 of full speed which seems to be just the right
balance for me, again you then have the freedom of slow to start with,
and then higherspeed should you want it.

cheers
Reyd

I don't agree. The low speed grinders are also slow speed grinders.
Grinding will take so long that you will avoid doing it when you should.

Get a 3400 rpm grinder and a either buy a jig system or build one. The
Oneway system is good. Get some good white or blue wheels and learn how
to grind with a light touch.

Many suggest using a 1700 rpm grinder. Maybe it would be good to start
with but you will get frustrated with the wasted time after you know how
to grind. There are several dual speed grinders out there.

As to wheels -- my find wheel is 80 grit and the roughing wheel is 36.
Some would say that is too coarse but it works for me.

As to size -- I grind on a 7" Baldor. For many years I ground on an
inexpensive 8" grinder with 7" wheels.

Bill

Rick Samuel wrote:
Have an old grinder that has seen better days, it has 6" wheels. Have a
Jet 1014 on order.
Anyone have ideas as to what to replace my grinder with? The low speed,
(70 to 400) wet, looks like a good idea. Comments welcome. Thanks in
advance.



--

Maybe I'm just a pessimist and am totally wrong; I could live quite
happily with that.
-SATAN
Sane people are just lunatics in denial.
_Delta Nine

MY DISCLAIMER...THE FOLLOWING POST IS A SLOWER GRINDER "IDEA" ONLY.
I SHALL IN NO EVENT BE LIABLE FOR DEATH, INJURIES TO PERSONS OR PROPERTY, OR FOR INCIDENTAL, FINANCIAL, CONTINGENT, SPECIAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES ARISING FROM THE USE OF THIS POSTING.
EVERYONES SKILL LEVELS VARY IF IN DOUBT, DONT USE THIS IDEA!! PURCHASE A PROFESSIONAL POWER TOOL (GRINDER) DESIGNED TO DO THE JOB CORRECTLY.
I might purchase/use a dirt cheap or junk grinder. I will then remove the grinding wheel & tin wheel guard in full from the motor this might allow for a V belt to be run.
Next I will place/secure a pulley where the grinding wheel was using either the grinding wheel washers & nuts.
NOTE..THIS HAS NOT BEEN TESTED YET..IF I DECIDE TO USE THE PULLEY SET SCREW IRREVERSABLE DAMAGE TO THE THREADS WILL MOST LIKELY OCCUR (earlier I said a cheap or junk grinder)
I will then find a way to secure the bench grinder & tension a belt driven by a slow 1725 or 1750 ect old motor to a solid bench or plywood base. The use of a step pulley on the motor will offer varied speeds.
DO NOT EXEED THE GRINDING WHEELS MAXIMUM OPERATING SPEED .THE GRINDING WHEEL COULD SHATTER. ALWAYS MAKE GUARDS AS WELL.

GOOD LUCK & HAVE FUN

[quote=Wilson]MY DISCLAIMER...THE FOLLOWING POST IS A SLOWER GRINDER "IDEA" ONLY.
I SHALL IN NO EVENT BE LIABLE FOR DEATH, INJURIES TO PERSONS OR DAMAGE TO PROPERTY, TOOLS OR FOR INCIDENTAL, FINANCIAL, CONTINGENT, SPECIAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES ARISING FROM THE USE OF THIS POSTING.
EVERYONES SKILL LEVELS VARY IF IN DOUBT, DONT USE THIS IDEA!!
IF YOU DONT WANT TO RISK DAMAGING A POWER TOOL/PERSONAL PROPERTY AT YOUR OWN RISK/LIABILITY DO NOT USE THIS IDEA!
PURCHASE A PROFESSIONAL POWER TOOL (GRINDER) DESIGNED TO DO THE JOB CORRECTLY.
I might purchase/use a dirt cheap or junk grinder. I will then remove the grinding wheel & tin wheel guard in full from the motor this might allow for a V belt to be run.
This should allow for 1 grinding wheel to be used with a factory guard & tool rest. You choose which guard to remove left or right. Remenber you do so at your own risk. Dont rush, take your time & think things through carefully.
Next I will place/secure a pulley where the grinding wheel was using the grinding wheel washers & nuts or after market washers.
MY HOPE IS TO PINCH THE PULLEY LIKE A GRINDING WHEEL THUS SAVING MY THREADS.
NOTE..THIS HAS NOT BEEN TESTED YET..IF I DECIDE TO USE THE PULLEY SET SCREW I WILL PROBABLY NEED TO FILE A SMALL FLAT AREA FOR THE SET SCREW. IRREVERSABLE DAMAGE TO THE THREADS WILL OCCUR. YOU WILL NEED TO DECIDE IF YOU PREFER TO USE THE LEFT OR RIGHT GRINDING WHEEL MOST OF THE TIME. (earlier I said a cheap or junk grinder)
I will then find a way to secure the bench grinder & tension a belt driven by a slow 1725 or 1750 ect (you choose the speed as slow as you like) old motor to a solid bench or plywood base. The use of a step pulley on the motor will offer varied speeds. Sweet indeed!
UNPLUG THE REAL BENCH GRINDER MOTOR & ZIP TIE THE CORD! ONLY PLUG IN THE AFTERMARKET/JUNK WASHING MACHINE MOTOR ECT.
DO NOT EXEED THE GRINDING WHEELS MAXIMUM OPERATING SPEED .THE GRINDING WHEEL COULD SHATTER. ALWAYS MAKE GUARDS AS WELL.

GOOD LUCK & HAVE FUN