convert chisel to bowl gouge
 

Hi all,

I'm a newbie who recently got my first face plate. I turned a shot glass
out of a little piece of ash, which took forever to hollow with my scraper.
At the flea market I picked up this for a buck:

http://www.glassgiant.com/misc_galle...p?galleryid=17

I'd been toying with the idea of making my own bowl gouge, but have never
worked with anything harder than sheet metal before. I thought maybe I
could grind this down, and, if need be, turn a longer handle for it. I
realize it's small, but I doubt I'll be hollowing anything deeper than about
4" for quite a while. Would that work? This tip looks black in one picture,
but that is rust.


Also, I'm moving my basement shop from a 13x12 room to a 13x19 (or 13x33 if
I never get around to putting that wall in :o). I currently have a 10"
belt-driven lathe with 36" bed bolted directly to studs in the basement.
This seems to turn the sheet rock on the other side of the wall into a huge
speaker. It gets quite noisy. I was thinking of of making a
self-supporting stand for it out of 4x4 and weighing it down with my winter
supply of sand/salt. This seems to be the cheapest and easiest solution.
Any tips/plans?

TIA,
Shawn

Shawn Wilson

http://www.GlassGiant.com

Shawn Wilson wrote:
Hi all,

I'm a newbie who recently got my first face plate. I turned a shot glass
out of a little piece of ash, which took forever to hollow with my scraper.
At the flea market I picked up this for a buck:

http://www.glassgiant.com/misc_galle...p?galleryid=17

I'd been toying with the idea of making my own bowl gouge, but have never
worked with anything harder than sheet metal before. I thought maybe I
could grind this down, and, if need be, turn a longer handle for it. I
realize it's small, but I doubt I'll be hollowing anything deeper than about
4" for quite a while. Would that work? This tip looks black in one picture,
but that is rust.


Also, I'm moving my basement shop from a 13x12 room to a 13x19 (or 13x33 if
I never get around to putting that wall in :o). I currently have a 10"
belt-driven lathe with 36" bed bolted directly to studs in the basement.
This seems to turn the sheet rock on the other side of the wall into a huge
speaker. It gets quite noisy. I was thinking of of making a
self-supporting stand for it out of 4x4 and weighing it down with my winter
supply of sand/salt. This seems to be the cheapest and easiest solution.
Any tips/plans?

TIA,
Shawn

Shawn Wilson

http://www.GlassGiant.com


Shawn,
I made all except one of my bowl gouges from shock absorber
rods using only a right angle grinder and a carbide bit and
drill.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

It is fatal to live too long.






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For a lathe stand get Kieth Rowley's Woodturning a foundation course. He
has alot of good information that you would ba able to use and he also tells
you how to put together a stand for your lathe

Bruce


"Shawn Wilson" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I'm a newbie who recently got my first face plate. I turned a shot glass
out of a little piece of ash, which took forever to hollow with my
scraper.
At the flea market I picked up this for a buck:

http://www.glassgiant.com/misc_galle...p?galleryid=17

I'd been toying with the idea of making my own bowl gouge, but have never
worked with anything harder than sheet metal before. I thought maybe I
could grind this down, and, if need be, turn a longer handle for it. I
realize it's small, but I doubt I'll be hollowing anything deeper than
about
4" for quite a while. Would that work? This tip looks black in one
picture,
but that is rust.


Also, I'm moving my basement shop from a 13x12 room to a 13x19 (or 13x33
if
I never get around to putting that wall in :o). I currently have a 10"
belt-driven lathe with 36" bed bolted directly to studs in the basement.
This seems to turn the sheet rock on the other side of the wall into a
huge
speaker. It gets quite noisy. I was thinking of of making a
self-supporting stand for it out of 4x4 and weighing it down with my
winter
supply of sand/salt. This seems to be the cheapest and easiest solution.
Any tips/plans?

TIA,
Shawn

Shawn Wilson

http://www.GlassGiant.com

Congratulations on your large shop. Wish I had that kind of room available.

Because I do not, my lathe stand doubles, as do all my tool bases, as a
storage cabinet. It is built of 3/4 particle board, fully glued and
screwed, and with 3/4 compartment dividers. Used two sheets in it, since
it's a 42" lathe, so you can imagine it's already heavy, made heavier by
storage of my cased tailed tools. Make yours with a bed extension in mind,
with 4-5" excess footprint for stability.

Two things to consider in construction are movability and height. I
accomplished the first by installing casters at one end, almost 1/4" off the
floor when the case is on its dustkicks. The kicks are relieved at that end
so I can grip the handles at the other, rotate up on to the casters, and
move the whole (empty, of course) wheelbarrow-fashion. The second, proper
height, should accomplished through the use of stacked blocks under the
attachment points. Make the cabinet low enough so that you have full speed
change and, more important, full shaving removal clearance under the lathe.
Ideal would be enough to put a tin heating duct along and under the bed to
gather the sanding dust.


"Shawn Wilson" wrote in message
...


Also, I'm moving my basement shop from a 13x12 room to a 13x19 (or 13x33
if
I never get around to putting that wall in :o). I currently have a 10"
belt-driven lathe with 36" bed bolted directly to studs in the basement.
This seems to turn the sheet rock on the other side of the wall into a
huge
speaker. It gets quite noisy. I was thinking of of making a
self-supporting stand for it out of 4x4 and weighing it down with my
winter
supply of sand/salt. This seems to be the cheapest and easiest solution.
Any tips/plans?

"Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message
...
For a lathe stand get Kieth Rowley's Woodturning a foundation course. He
has alot of good information that you would ba able to use and he also
tells
you how to put together a stand for your lathe

Bruce


"Shawn Wilson" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I'm a newbie who recently got my first face plate. I turned a shot
glass
out of a little piece of ash, which took forever to hollow with my
scraper.
At the flea market I picked up this for a buck:

http://www.glassgiant.com/misc_galle...p?galleryid=17

I'd been toying with the idea of making my own bowl gouge, but have
never
worked with anything harder than sheet metal before. I thought maybe I
could grind this down, and, if need be, turn a longer handle for it. I
realize it's small, but I doubt I'll be hollowing anything deeper than
about
4" for quite a while. Would that work? This tip looks black in one
picture,
but that is rust.


Also, I'm moving my basement shop from a 13x12 room to a 13x19 (or 13x33
if
I never get around to putting that wall in :o). I currently have a 10"
belt-driven lathe with 36" bed bolted directly to studs in the basement.
This seems to turn the sheet rock on the other side of the wall into a
huge
speaker. It gets quite noisy. I was thinking of of making a
self-supporting stand for it out of 4x4 and weighing it down with my
winter
supply of sand/salt. This seems to be the cheapest and easiest
solution.
Any tips/plans?


Thanks, it just came in the library...

Shawn
--
Shawn Wilson

http://www.GlassGiant.com

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Congratulations on your large shop. Wish I had that kind of room
available.

Because I do not, my lathe stand doubles, as do all my tool bases, as a
storage cabinet. It is built of 3/4 particle board, fully glued and
screwed, and with 3/4 compartment dividers. Used two sheets in it, since
it's a 42" lathe, so you can imagine it's already heavy, made heavier by
storage of my cased tailed tools. Make yours with a bed extension in
mind,
with 4-5" excess footprint for stability.

Two things to consider in construction are movability and height. I
accomplished the first by installing casters at one end, almost 1/4" off
the
floor when the case is on its dustkicks. The kicks are relieved at that
end
so I can grip the handles at the other, rotate up on to the casters, and
move the whole (empty, of course) wheelbarrow-fashion. The second, proper
height, should accomplished through the use of stacked blocks under the
attachment points. Make the cabinet low enough so that you have full
speed
change and, more important, full shaving removal clearance under the
lathe.
Ideal would be enough to put a tin heating duct along and under the bed to
gather the sanding dust.


I _can_ imagine the weight. I just moved an old counter that originally
came from a post office (gov't money - overbuilt) made out of particle board
and plywood. I was hoping to use it for the lathe bench, but it's 6" too
short and an odd shape to be able to fit the motor into (one end rounded).

I'll keep your tips in mind. In my current setup the tailstock and tool
rest just barely clear the shelf the lathe is mounted on. Very annoying
when a few chips get in there...

Thanks,
Shawn
--
Shawn Wilson

http://www.GlassGiant.com

I'm a newbie who recently got my first face plate. I turned a shot glass
out of a little piece of ash, which took forever to hollow with my scraper.
At the flea market I picked up this for a buck:

http://www.glassgiant.com/misc_galle...p?galleryid=17

I'd been toying with the idea of making my own bowl gouge, but have never
worked with anything harder than sheet metal before. I thought maybe I
could grind this down, and, if need be, turn a longer handle for it. I
realize it's small, but I doubt I'll be hollowing anything deeper than about
4" for quite a while. Would that work? BRBR

That looks like a forged bowl gouge (not made from round stock). All you need
to do is turn a new handle (that one looks way too short) about 18" long (use a
piece of copper tubing for the ferrule on the handle) and regrind the tip to a
shape such as is shown in the Craft Supplies USA catalog (similar to the
Ellsworth grind). It's probably not High Speed Steel, so be careful of blueing
the edge and losing the temper.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

Looks to be a carving gouge, based on the tang configuration. You could do a
lot better on end grain hollowing with a pointy or fingernail grind gouge.
If you want to abuse this one as a turning tool, use it as a roughing gouge
for the outsides of things, where it should remove wood at any rate you
care. keep your speed and feed pressure low to avoid excessive heating of
the edge, and you'll be happy.

Long handles on gouges can get in the way if you're obliged to turn over the
bed, and are unnecessary if you keep your toolrest close.

"Jim Gott" wrote in message
...

I'm a newbie who recently got my first face plate. I turned a shot glass
out of a little piece of ash, which took forever to hollow with my
scraper.
At the flea market I picked up this for a buck:

http://www.glassgiant.com/misc_galle...p?galleryid=17

I'd been toying with the idea of making my own bowl gouge, but have never
worked with anything harder than sheet metal before. I thought maybe I
could grind this down, and, if need be, turn a longer handle for it. I
realize it's small, but I doubt I'll be hollowing anything deeper than
about
4" for quite a while. Would that work? BRBR

That looks like a forged bowl gouge (not made from round stock). All you
need
to do is turn a new handle (that one looks way too short) about 18" long
(use a
piece of copper tubing for the ferrule on the handle) and regrind the tip
to a
shape such as is shown in the Craft Supplies USA catalog (similar to the
Ellsworth grind). It's probably not High Speed Steel, so be careful of
blueing
the edge and losing the temper.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA