How can I tell what size (#6, or #8, or #10) screws will fit the faceplate
that comes with the Jet 1014 Mini Lathe?

Can't find the info anywhere.

Also, the same question, if I order additional generic faceplates from
a place online, how can I tell what size screws it will take?

Thanks,

James

"Kevin" wrote in message
...
Take your faceplate with you into a hardware store. I use 2 different
lengths of self tapping metal screws . Avoid drywall screws as they tend
to
be a bit on the brittle side.
-Kevin
============================
Avoid using the traditional wood screws, the tapered type. They don't give
you enough pull-out strength. There are several designs of screws that have
a uniform diameter over their entire length (think sheet metal screws),
giving more resistance to pulling out. Some have extra deep threads that
give maximum strength. They are your best choice. Many of the woodworking
catalogs have descriptions of the different choices.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

aaah, if you got a catch that broke 2 inches off the end of your tool, you
probably had the tool rest pretty far from the work - that's not good
practice, particularly when you are beginning.


snip]



Two days ago I got another (increasingly rare ... thank goodness!) catch
in a maple bowl while truing the outside. It broke my 1/2" gouge and
pulled the tool out of my hands ... just snapped about 2" off the end. But
the blank stayed on the faceplate.

Wouldn't it be preferable to loose an occasional blank than 2" off of a
gouge? I can't imagine putting myself in a position to do that. I always
keep the tool rest as close to the wood as possible.
Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")
http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners
http://www.lehighvalleywoodturners.com/

"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2004.11.04.04.49.58.566716@notarealserver .com...
On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 12:24:45 -0400, James D. Farrow wrote:

How can I tell what size (#6, or #8, or #10) screws will fit the
faceplate
that comes with the Jet 1014 Mini Lathe?

Can't find the info anywhere.

Also, the same question, if I order additional generic faceplates from a
place online, how can I tell what size screws it will take?

Thanks,

James

After having had a blank come bouncing off the faceplate following a
catch, I now use 1" (25mm) by 1/4" (7mm) lag screws with a pre-drilled
pilot hole.

Two days ago I got another (increasingly rare ... thank goodness!) catch
in a maple bowl while truing the outside. It broke my 1/2" gouge and
pulled the tool out of my hands ... just snapped about 2" off the end. But
the blank stayed on the faceplate.

After finding the center of the blank, it takes me about 2 minutes to
fasten the blank to the faceplate using only a hand ratchet wrench and an
electric hand drill. IMHO, it's time well spent.

Bill

--
http://cannaday.us (genealogy)
http://organic-earth.com (organic gardening)
Uptimes below for the machines that created / host these sites.
23:44:00 up 20 days, 6:27, 4 users, load average: 0.03, 0.19, 0.22
23:28:00 up 182 days, 8:29, 3 users, load average: 0.00, 0.00, 0.00

IF someone is breaking 2" off a bowl gouge....??? 2 suggestions:
1. Get some PERSONAL instruction immediately!
2. Failing that (No. 1 ) ....take up basket weaving..........You'll live
longer.....

--


M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
ô¿ô
~

"Tony Manella" ndd1 at prolog.net wrote in message
...
Wouldn't it be preferable to loose an occasional blank than 2" off of a
gouge? I can't imagine putting myself in a position to do that. I
always
keep the tool rest as close to the wood as possible.
Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")
http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners
http://www.lehighvalleywoodturners.com/

"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2004.11.04.04.49.58.566716@notarealserver .com...
On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 12:24:45 -0400, James D. Farrow wrote:

How can I tell what size (#6, or #8, or #10) screws will fit the
faceplate
that comes with the Jet 1014 Mini Lathe?

Can't find the info anywhere.

Also, the same question, if I order additional generic faceplates from
a
place online, how can I tell what size screws it will take?

Thanks,

James

After having had a blank come bouncing off the faceplate following a
catch, I now use 1" (25mm) by 1/4" (7mm) lag screws with a pre-drilled
pilot hole.

Two days ago I got another (increasingly rare ... thank goodness!) catch
in a maple bowl while truing the outside. It broke my 1/2" gouge and
pulled the tool out of my hands ... just snapped about 2" off the end.
But
the blank stayed on the faceplate.

After finding the center of the blank, it takes me about 2 minutes to
fasten the blank to the faceplate using only a hand ratchet wrench and an
electric hand drill. IMHO, it's time well spent.

Bill

--
http://cannaday.us (genealogy)
http://organic-earth.com (organic gardening)
Uptimes below for the machines that created / host these sites.
23:44:00 up 20 days, 6:27, 4 users, load average: 0.03, 0.19, 0.22
23:28:00 up 182 days, 8:29, 3 users, load average: 0.00, 0.00, 0.00

IF someone is breaking 2" off a bowl gouge....??? 2 suggestions:
1. Get some PERSONAL instruction immediately!
2. Failing that (No. 1 ) ....take up basket weaving..........You'll live
longer.....

Maybe but not necessarily. I had a couple of inches break off the end of a 3/8
bowl gouge once. Had a metallurgist that I knew take a look at it and he felt
that there was a flaw in the manufacture and that I could grind it back to
shape and use safely. He's been right for a couple of years anyway

Kip Powers
Rogers, AR

"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2004.11.06.06.06.51.793928@notarealserver .com...
On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 18:59:47 +0000, Kip055 wrote:

IF someone is breaking 2" off a bowl gouge....??? 2 suggestions: 1. Get
some PERSONAL instruction immediately! 2. Failing that (No. 1 ) ....take
up basket weaving..........You'll live longer.....

Maybe but not necessarily. I had a couple of inches break off the end of
a 3/8 bowl gouge once. Had a metallurgist that I knew take a look at it
and he felt that there was a flaw in the manufacture and that I could
grind it back to shape and use safely. He's been right for a couple of
years anyway

Kip Powers
Rogers, AR

Thank you, Kip.
The tool rest was within 1/2" of the work. I was still turning the bowl
blank down to round or it probably wouldn't have been that far away. The
break was actually IN my left hand ... and pretty far into it, too. It
drew blood from my little finger at the point where it snapped and -all-
of my fingers are -always- behind the tool rest when I am cutting stock.
Moreover, I didn't say that it was a bowl gouge. It wasn't. It was a
spindle gouge being applied to the outside diameter. (It has since been
reshaped into a bowl gouge.)

I spent the better part of ten years of my life working as a
prototype machinist and then as a diemaker. I know better than to leave
excessive tool hanging out ... and I DO better.

Kip, I'm using this posting to reply to you (directly) and the fellow you
were responding to (indirectly).


Well you have certainly convinced me that you don't need any
instruction........Sorry I offered you some sound advice...........Uhhhh
Good luck???

--


M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
ô¿ô
~

Or, at the least he doesn't need to be reminded of the obvious. Delicate
business, constructing some replies. You hate to give the dumbguy treatment
even if you have a suspicion that it may be appropriate. On the other hand,
if you go with the odds - REALLY tough to snap a tool using it properly -
you still might be wrong. .

I think he felt the basketweaving suggestion was a bit overboard. You can
get hurt quickly there, too, if you make your own splint! DAMHIKT


"M.J. Orr" wrote in message
...

"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2004.11.06.06.06.51.793928@notarealserver .com...
On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 18:59:47 +0000, Kip055 wrote:

IF someone is breaking 2" off a bowl gouge....??? 2 suggestions: 1.
Get
some PERSONAL instruction immediately! 2. Failing that (No. 1 )
.....take
up basket weaving..........You'll live longer.....

Maybe but not necessarily. I had a couple of inches break off the end
of
a 3/8 bowl gouge once. Had a metallurgist that I knew take a look at
it
and he felt that there was a flaw in the manufacture and that I could
grind it back to shape and use safely. He's been right for a couple of
years anyway

Kip Powers
Rogers, AR

Thank you, Kip.
The tool rest was within 1/2" of the work. I was still turning the bowl
blank down to round or it probably wouldn't have been that far away. The
break was actually IN my left hand ... and pretty far into it, too. It
drew blood from my little finger at the point where it snapped and -all-
of my fingers are -always- behind the tool rest when I am cutting stock.
Moreover, I didn't say that it was a bowl gouge. It wasn't. It was a
spindle gouge being applied to the outside diameter. (It has since been
reshaped into a bowl gouge.)

I spent the better part of ten years of my life working as a
prototype machinist and then as a diemaker. I know better than to leave
excessive tool hanging out ... and I DO better.

Kip, I'm using this posting to reply to you (directly) and the fellow
you
were responding to (indirectly).


Well you have certainly convinced me that you don't need any
instruction........Sorry I offered you some sound advice...........Uhhhh
Good luck???

Hello Anonymous

IF someone is breaking 2" off a bowl gouge....??? 2 suggestions: 1. Get
some PERSONAL instruction immediately! 2. Failing that (No. 1 ) ....take
up basket weaving..........You'll live longer.....

I thought something like that also, You don't just break a piece off a
HSS turning tool, (was it HSS ?) you are definitely doing something
really wrong and dangerous, unless there was a flaw in the steel, does
not happen often I think, or people would bring this up in the posts.

Thank you, Kip.
The tool rest was within 1/2" of the work. I was still turning the bowl
blank down to round or it probably wouldn't have been that far away. The
break was actually IN my left hand ... and pretty far into it, too. It
drew blood from my little finger at the point where it snapped and -all-
of my fingers are -always- behind the tool rest when I am cutting stock.
Moreover,

I didn't say that it was a bowl gouge. It wasn't. It was a
spindle gouge

Bowl gouges are for bowls, spindle gouges are for spindles

being applied to the outside diameter. (It has since been
reshaped into a bowl gouge.)

mind telling us how you change a spindle gouge into a bowl gouge, now I
assume it was maybe a homemade tool?.

I spent the better part of ten years of my life working as a
prototype machinist and then as a diemaker. I know better than to leave
excessive tool hanging out ... and I DO better.


Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum18.html

And the difference between a big spindle and the outside of a bowl is ?

"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message
...

Bowl gouges are for bowls, spindle gouges are for spindles

being applied to the outside diameter. (It has since been
reshaped into a bowl gouge.)

Not another test???.....Let me guess.......USUALLY (but not always for those
that want to start an argument) one is side grain and the other is USUALLY
(same disclaimer) end grain???? Am I close? So much to learn ....so little
time.......

--


M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
ô¿ô
~

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
And the difference between a big spindle and the outside of a bowl is ?

"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message
...

Bowl gouges are for bowls, spindle gouges are for spindles

being applied to the outside diameter. (It has since been
reshaped into a bowl gouge.)

I agree wholeheartedly George. When we see or read of someone doing
something stupid or dangerous we should all look the other way just in case
we hurt someone's feelings. I will do so in the future................Now
back to my basket weaving course................chuckle..............

--


M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
ô¿ô
~

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Or, at the least he doesn't need to be reminded of the obvious. Delicate
business, constructing some replies. You hate to give the dumbguy
treatment
even if you have a suspicion that it may be appropriate. On the other
hand,
if you go with the odds - REALLY tough to snap a tool using it properly -
you still might be wrong. .

I think he felt the basketweaving suggestion was a bit overboard. You can
get hurt quickly there, too, if you make your own splint! DAMHIKT


"M.J. Orr" wrote in message
...

"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2004.11.06.06.06.51.793928@notarealserver .com...
On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 18:59:47 +0000, Kip055 wrote:

IF someone is breaking 2" off a bowl gouge....??? 2 suggestions: 1.
Get
some PERSONAL instruction immediately! 2. Failing that (No. 1 )
....take
up basket weaving..........You'll live longer.....

Maybe but not necessarily. I had a couple of inches break off the end
of
a 3/8 bowl gouge once. Had a metallurgist that I knew take a look at
it
and he felt that there was a flaw in the manufacture and that I could
grind it back to shape and use safely. He's been right for a couple
of
years anyway

Kip Powers
Rogers, AR

Thank you, Kip.
The tool rest was within 1/2" of the work. I was still turning the bowl
blank down to round or it probably wouldn't have been that far away.
The
break was actually IN my left hand ... and pretty far into it, too. It
drew blood from my little finger at the point where it snapped
and -all-
of my fingers are -always- behind the tool rest when I am cutting
stock.
Moreover, I didn't say that it was a bowl gouge. It wasn't. It was a
spindle gouge being applied to the outside diameter. (It has since been
reshaped into a bowl gouge.)

I spent the better part of ten years of my life working as a
prototype machinist and then as a diemaker. I know better than to leave
excessive tool hanging out ... and I DO better.

Kip, I'm using this posting to reply to you (directly) and the fellow
you
were responding to (indirectly).


Well you have certainly convinced me that you don't need any
instruction........Sorry I offered you some sound advice...........Uhhhh
Good luck???

Pardon the top-posting.
James, I use 1/4" diameter sheet metal screws. If the holes in the
faceplate are too small, drill them out. While you are at it, countersink
the face side of the faceplate so that the wood that is lifted by the screw
has a space to go into. That way the faceplate always sits flat on the
blank.

Normally, I use 1 1/2" long screws, which on my faceplates lets about 1" of
the screw project into the wood. Unless the wood is particularly hard, I do
not drill pilot holes. 90% of the pieces I turn are wet, so there is not
need to pre-drill. I simply screw them in with a cordless drill. For
smaller pieces, occasionally I use 5/16" nuts as 'washers'. I always use
as many screws as I can, usually about 8 or more. It has been many years
since I had a piece come loose.

I have turned hollow vessels up to 12" in diameter x 20" deep, using a 3
1/2" diameter faceplate. In order to do this, I always use the live center
as a support, then use a steady rest to hollow the piece. As long as you
don't allow the piece to 'lever' against the faceplate, this is perfectly
safe.

Incidentally, all my faceplates are homemade, of 1/2" thick steel. No
wimply aluminum stuff allowed in my shop.

Regards,
James R. Johnson
Kerrville, TX

"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2004.11.04.04.49.58.566716@notarealserver .com...
On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 12:24:45 -0400, James D. Farrow wrote:

How can I tell what size (#6, or #8, or #10) screws will fit the
faceplate
that comes with the Jet 1014 Mini Lathe?

Can't find the info anywhere.

Also, the same question, if I order additional generic faceplates from a
place online, how can I tell what size screws it will take?

Thanks,

James

After having had a blank come bouncing off the faceplate following a
catch, I now use 1" (25mm) by 1/4" (7mm) lag screws with a pre-drilled
pilot hole.

Two days ago I got another (increasingly rare ... thank goodness!) catch
in a maple bowl while truing the outside. It broke my 1/2" gouge and
pulled the tool out of my hands ... just snapped about 2" off the end. But
the blank stayed on the faceplate.

After finding the center of the blank, it takes me about 2 minutes to
fasten the blank to the faceplate using only a hand ratchet wrench and an
electric hand drill. IMHO, it's time well spent.

Bill

--
http://cannaday.us (genealogy)
http://organic-earth.com (organic gardening)
Uptimes below for the machines that created / host these sites.
23:44:00 up 20 days, 6:27, 4 users, load average: 0.03, 0.19, 0.22
23:28:00 up 182 days, 8:29, 3 users, load average: 0.00, 0.00, 0.00

Ah, conventional thinking. Orientation of the grain determines the
direction wood wishes to be cut, not direction of rotation, and a
cross-grain bowl blank can (should?) be approached precisely as a spindle,
the only difference being that the arc of rotation is at ninety degrees
relative to a conventional spindle. This is not a problem, because you
initially orient your rest perpendicular to the axis of rotation to
compensate. All the spindle truths are valid, you still want to cut
downhill, your gouge angle for shaving drop is the same. The only
difference is that a bowl blank, depending on how it's prepared, may have
interruptions in the material. These are not a problem if you've anchored
firmly to the tool rest, as the thrust of the wood is still down the edge
into the rest, just as it was with a spindle. As the blank acquires shape,
the toolrest is moved in closer and re-angled. You don't need to compromise
the cut with a narrow-nosed bowl gouge, or attempt to get clearance for the
long handle so you can shear from the wing, and most important, you never
have much extension over the rest, which is the reason behind the hefty
section on a bowl gouge.

PLEASE tell me you don't orient your toolrest parallel to the axis of
rotation on a bowl and hack away.

http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeorge/index.html

Almost forgot something that's important to us old codgers - interruptions
don't jar your elbow if you let the rest take the thrust, and the tool
doesn't bounce, causing damage to the rest, since your off hand is anchoring
it firmly.

"M.J. Orr" wrote in message
...
Not another test???.....Let me guess.......USUALLY (but not always for
those
that want to start an argument) one is side grain and the other is USUALLY
(same disclaimer) end grain???? Am I close? So much to learn ....so
little
time.......
"George" george@least wrote in message
...
And the difference between a big spindle and the outside of a bowl is ?

"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message
...

Bowl gouges are for bowls, spindle gouges are for spindles

being applied to the outside diameter. (It has since been
reshaped into a bowl gouge.)

Well Bill, I guess it's true what they say happens when you assume.

I stand firmly by my assertion that it's mighty difficult to snap a 1/2" of
steel gouge without abusing it, and I won't bother chiding M.J. for his
choice of options in an attempt to defend you again.

"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2004.11.07.09.56.31.332598@notarealserver .com...

I don't see how either of you decided that what I was doing was stupid or
dangerous except that you have a tendency to jump to conclusions without
anywhere near enough evidence to support them.

Why would MY feelings be hurt? That makes no sense at all.
You two are the ones who made the mistake.

Now, can we get back to discussing woodturning?

Bill

--
http://cannaday.us (genealogy)
http://organic-earth.com (organic gardening)
Uptimes below for the Linux machines that created / host these sites.
03:36:00 up 23 days, 10:19, 3 users, load average: 0.00, 0.08, 0.08
03:20:00 up 185 days, 12:21, 3 users, load average: 0.00, 0.00, 0.00

"Moreover, I didn't say that it was a bowl gouge. It wasn't. It was a
spindle gouge being applied to the outside diameter. (It has since been
reshaped into a bowl gouge.)"

A 1/2 inch "spindle" gouge that broke off 2" is now doing service as a
reshaped "bowl" gouge and -I'M- the one that doesn't have enough evidence
that you might be doing something dangerous? Bill I stand corrected and
apologize profusely......carry on.........once again...........Good
luck...........:-(

--


M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
ô¿ô
~


I don't see how either of you decided that what I was doing was stupid or
dangerous except that you have a tendency to jump to conclusions without
anywhere near enough evidence to support them.

Why would MY feelings be hurt? That makes no sense at all.
You two are the ones who made the mistake.

Now, can we get back to discussing woodturning?

Bill

--
http://cannaday.us (genealogy)
http://organic-earth.com (organic gardening)
Uptimes below for the Linux machines that created / host these sites.
03:36:00 up 23 days, 10:19, 3 users, load average: 0.00, 0.08, 0.08
03:20:00 up 185 days, 12:21, 3 users, load average: 0.00, 0.00, 0.00