Kinda Interesting:

I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and noticed
Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle talcum powder
on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser. They say the fine
powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture intrusion. Should be
done weekly.

Anyone else heard of or tried this?

Never Tried it but I have been using WD-40 on my lathe bed and I have not
had a problem with rust so far. My lathe is about 2 years old and no rust.
"RonB" wrote in message
news:jH8dd.5652$EZ.2170@okepread07...
Kinda Interesting:

I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and
noticed Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle
talcum powder on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser. They
say the fine powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture
intrusion. Should be done weekly.

Anyone else heard of or tried this?

"RonB" wrote in message
news:jH8dd.5652$EZ.2170@okepread07...
Kinda Interesting:

I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and
noticed Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle
talcum powder on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser. They
say the fine powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture
intrusion. Should be done weekly.


Weekly? Sounds more like a minimum preventative method. IMHO there are
much better methods.

My Taiwanese table saw came with the same instructions. I did try it a
couple of times but abandoned it. Can't really remember whether exactly why
but I don't recall being real impressed with the results. I presently rub my
cast surfaces with Nevr-Dull to clean any slight rust discoloration and then
coat with Johnsons paste wax every now and then. Works well in my basement
shop. I notice a lot of WW'ers seem to like Top-Coat for cast protection.
Billh

"RonB" wrote in message
news:jH8dd.5652$EZ.2170@okepread07...
Kinda Interesting:

I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and
noticed Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle
talcum powder on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser. They
say the fine powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture
intrusion. Should be done weekly.

Anyone else heard of or tried this?

Weekly? Sounds more like a minimum preventative method. IMHO there are
much better methods.

Well, that's what I thought. I have been using Slipit for a couple of years
with pretty good success, but thought this was kinda interesting. Works on
you feet, works on your jointer.

Good for man or machine!


Yep - and machines are good for the man!

Kinda Interesting:
I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and noticed
Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle talcum powder
on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser. They say the fine
powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture intrusion. Should be
done weekly.
Anyone else heard of or tried this?


Congrats on the new machine, I should be so lucky (or blessed). But I would not do that
and can understand why from BillH's experience, I would think that the powder would
actually collect and hold moisture from natural condensation, keeping it there. It is no
doubt in my mind that a giant company passing on such information would really be
needing an owner to buy a new table "when" it becomes over rusted from possible neglect,
no matter who the future owner would be. I could be totaly wrong and if I needed to I
would read-up on it from other sources.

Companies go crazy figuring out people and their naivete´, and how to make as much
money as is possible. Every tiny damn detail of whatever is taken into account by business
engineers. As a bad example, a long time ago, American Airlines decided to remove one
olive from each and every salad that is served on flights. In one year that saved them
$40,000.xx -fact.

Go with something made for the job like Top Coat or like BillH, paste wax. Not Boshield
though, it is for protecting machinery from rusting during storage. I like Ace super oil, made
to be a cheaper 3-in-one you can smell the parrafin in it, which nicley stays as a thin coating
on the metal.

Alex
(my only machine is a mini DP, but everything I said is the way I think)

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 08:31:59 -0500, "RonB" wrote:

Kinda Interesting:

I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and noticed
Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle talcum powder
on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser. They say the fine
powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture intrusion. Should be
done weekly.

Anyone else heard of or tried this?

I'd be a little worried about that... while I'm guessing that the talc
is to absorb moisture, I'd worry about it attracting too much moisture
and causing a rust pit..

Depending on whether or not the surface will contact wood, (drill
press quill doesn't, saw table does a lot), I use "3-in-1" oil,
silicon spray or well buffed paste wax..

Disclaimer: I am far from an expert and frequently am wrong,
especially in the morning before proper caffine/nicotine level is
reached, or in the evenings, when proper alcohol level is reached...

AAvK wrote:

Companies go crazy figuring out people and their naivete´, and how to make as much
money as is possible. Every tiny damn detail of whatever is taken into account by business
engineers. As a bad example, a long time ago, American Airlines decided to remove one
olive from each and every salad that is served on flights. In one year that saved them
$40,000.xx -fact.

FWIW, according to a tape I have by motivational speaker Bob Harrison,
AA surveyed 1st class passengers, then removed the unwanted olive.

-- Mark

RonB wrote:
Good for man or machine!



Yep - and machines are good for the man!

Well, if you can find talc powder. Most of what we call talc powder
seems to be marketed as 'baby powder' and is actually largely corn
starch if memory serves.

Talc powder is finely ground soapstone I think - not sure I'd want that
getting into my bearings and such. Think I'll stick to waxing the
surface of my machines...

....Kevin

I have a Grizzley jointer that is about 10 years old and it came with
the same instructions. I had some talc that was used to install inner
tubes in aircraft tires so I tried it. I kept up the practice for
about two years and it worked and although I haven't applied talc
recently the jointer still doesn't rust like my table saw and lathe
bed. I live in the hot humid south and if it'll work here it'll work
anywhere.

"billh" wrote in message ...
My Taiwanese table saw came with the same instructions. I did try it a
couple of times but abandoned it. Can't really remember whether exactly why
but I don't recall being real impressed with the results. I presently rub my
cast surfaces with Nevr-Dull to clean any slight rust discoloration and then
coat with Johnsons paste wax every now and then. Works well in my basement
shop. I notice a lot of WW'ers seem to like Top-Coat for cast protection.
Billh

"RonB" wrote in message
news:jH8dd.5652$EZ.2170@okepread07...
Kinda Interesting:

I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and
noticed Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle
talcum powder on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser. They
say the fine powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture
intrusion. Should be done weekly.

Anyone else heard of or tried this?

In rec.crafts.woodturning Kevin Miller wrote:
: RonB wrote:

: Well, if you can find talc powder. Most of what we call talc powder
: seems to be marketed as 'baby powder' and is actually largely corn
: starch if memory serves.

And a good thing too, as a lot of talc contains asbestos.


-- Andy Barss

"Bonehenge" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 09:54:47 -0400, "Steven Raphael"
wrote:

Never Tried it but I have been using WD-40 on my lathe bed and I have not
had a problem with rust so far.

WD-40's rust prevention lasts about three days. Just ask anyone who's
ever worked in a bicycle shop where customers use it as chain lube.
G


You do realize that the WD 40 does not last on a chain because it gets slung
off. I use on 3 bike chains when putting the bikes up for extend periods of
time. No Rust.

--
Christ is in our Midst!

Ron, I simply add a several coats of a good Car Wax to my Iron or Steel
tops. No rust and as smooth as glass.

God Bless, Michael

Free Plans @ WWW.Cedar-Art.Com

"RonB" wrote in message
news:jH8dd.5652$EZ.2170@okepread07...
Kinda Interesting:

I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and
noticed Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle
talcum powder on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser. They
say the fine powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture
intrusion. Should be done weekly.

Anyone else heard of or tried this?

FWIW, according to a tape I have by motivational speaker Bob Harrison,
AA surveyed 1st class passengers, then removed the unwanted olive.


Sounds like paid business propaganda. I love olives, I would never do that!
Alex

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 12:02:47 -0800, Kevin Miller
wrote:

Well, if you can find talc powder. Most of what we call talc powder
seems to be marketed as 'baby powder' and is actually largely corn
starch if memory serves.

If it has corn starch in it, it will say so on the label. Otherwise
it is talc, whether it's baby powder, body powder, foot powder, or the
white powder on your white rice (yep, really).

Talc powder is finely ground soapstone I think - not sure I'd want that
getting into my bearings and such. Think I'll stick to waxing the
surface of my machines...

While talc is mineralogically related to soapstone, they're not the
same thing. Talc is softer, and neither will hurt your lathe...he
didn't say to powder it like you were changing the baby, after all!

--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

Andy Barss
And a good thing too, as a lot of talc contains asbestos.


And talc is in crayons.

UA100

Christ is in our Midst!


Is it anything as creepy as "waking up with The King"?

UA100

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 22:01:31 GMT, "Mike Zuchick"
wrote:

Ron, I simply add a several coats of a good Car Wax to my Iron or Steel
tops. No rust and as smooth as glass.

Car wax ? bad idea. Your finishing attempts will be contaminated by
silicones, yea unto the seventh generation.

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 21:13:21 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
wrote:

And a good thing too, as a lot of talc contains asbestos.

No, this is quite unreasonable scare mongering. In no possible way
does "a lot of talc" contain asbestos.

Talc and asbestos are both amphibole minerals (a whole lot of minerals
are amphiboles - if it's a calcium / magnesium silicate, chances are
that it's an amphibole). _Some_ talc deposits have associated asbestos
deposits with them. _Some_ talc minerals have been mined from these
deposits, leading to contamination with asbestos.

In _ONE_ infamous case, a study of the talc filler used for making
children's crayons was found to contain a miniscule, but detectable,
level of asbestos. Cue instant hysteria from the "Think of the
_CHILDREN_" brigade. This trivial and insignificant case has been
blown up out of all proportion ever since.

If you're selecting talc to make cosmetic grade talcum powder, you
didn't use these deposits anyway. You wanted something that milled
finely, and the last thing you need is some tough old fibre in there.


Got any houseplants ? Any of them potted with vermiculite (those
white spongy granules, to improve water retention) ? You'll get more
asbestos exposure from those than you will from talc. In the waords
of that great sage, John Otway, "Be careful of the flowers 'cos I'm
sure they're gonna get you, yeah"



Now flame away. I'm so chock-full of asbestos I'm fire-proof.

--
Smert' spamionam

Unisaw A100 did say:

Christ is in our Midst!


Is it anything as creepy as "waking up with The King"?

UA100

And tell him to read the FAQ before posting. Unless, of course, he's
all-knowing. In which case he can start posting immediately.

--
New project = new tool. Hard and fast rule.

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 01:04:12 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 22:01:31 GMT, "Mike Zuchick"
wrote:

Ron, I simply add a several coats of a good Car Wax to my Iron or Steel
tops. No rust and as smooth as glass.

Car wax ? bad idea. Your finishing attempts will be contaminated by
silicones, yea unto the seventh generation.


Andy-

not all car waxes have silicone. I think the trend in automotive
products is away from silicone. one advantage of automotive paste
waxes is that they seem (to me) to be formulated a bit harder than
furniture waxes.

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 17:49:40 -0700, wrote:

not all car waxes have silicone. I

I knew commenting to a tablesaw wax thread was a bad idea...

I _know_ they don't all contain it. What I don't know is how to
_prove_ they don't contain it. I don't even let silicone grease into
the wood workshop - it's just far too much trouble when silicones show
up where they shouldn't.

--
Smert' spamionam

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 02:26:05 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 17:49:40 -0700, wrote:

not all car waxes have silicone. I

I knew commenting to a tablesaw wax thread was a bad idea...

; ^ )



I _know_ they don't all contain it. What I don't know is how to
_prove_ they don't contain it.

read the label.


I don't even let silicone grease into
the wood workshop - it's just far too much trouble when silicones show
up where they shouldn't.


absolutely.

but the fact that it's sold for automotive use is no indicator that it
contains silicone. also,don't assume that products sold for
non-automotive purposes _don't_ contain silicone. I've seen it in the
damnedest of places- spray cans of it for lubricating electrical
equipment, for instance...

I use it on climbing harness's for Navy PMS as a rust preventive, works
better than 2190 TEP. You should also know it is considered a hazardous
material by the military.
"Mike Zuchick" wrote in message
. com...


--
Christ is in our Midst!

Ron, I simply add a several coats of a good Car Wax to my Iron or Steel
tops. No rust and as smooth as glass.

God Bless, Michael

Free Plans @ WWW.Cedar-Art.Com

"RonB" wrote in message
news:jH8dd.5652$EZ.2170@okepread07...
Kinda Interesting:

I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and
noticed Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle
talcum powder on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser. They
say the fine powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture
intrusion. Should be done weekly.

Anyone else heard of or tried this?

"mac davis" wrote in message

I'd be a little worried about that... while I'm guessing that the talc
is to absorb moisture, I'd worry about it attracting too much moisture
and causing a rust pit..

To the contrary, talc repels moisture almost as well as oil, hence it's
nearly ubiquitous usage on babies.

Max

"RonB" wrote in message

Kinda Interesting:

I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and
noticed
Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle talcum powder
on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser. They say the fine
powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture intrusion. Should be
done weekly.

Anyone else heard of or tried this?

An old-timer once told me that he used talc on his cast iron saw table, so I
tried some pool cue talc. And with good results. Talc repels moisture, but
without the potential residue of oil. I've used it on all my cast iron saw
tables and on my drill press table for years. It helps materials to slide
on the table, it allows my cutoff sled to slide more easily in the groove of
my table saw, and it has prevented corrosion. I replenish about every two
months or so. I haven't tried it on the ways of the lathe, mostly because
the headstock, tailstock, and banjo all slide on them. For those I use
medium machine oil with good success, aside from the oil/wood dust residue
that builds up. FWIW.

Max

On 19-Oct-2004, "Bill" wrote:

I use it on climbing harness's

Now is "it" the car wax or the talc?

Mike

An old-timer once told me that he used talc on his cast iron saw table, so I
tried some pool cue talc. And with good results. Talc repels moisture, but
without the potential residue of oil. I've used it on all my cast iron saw
tables and on my drill press table for years. It helps materials to slide
on the table, it allows my cutoff sled to slide more easily in the groove of
my table saw, and it has prevented corrosion. I replenish about every two
months or so. I haven't tried it on the ways of the lathe, mostly because
the headstock, tailstock, and banjo all slide on them. For those I use
medium machine oil with good success, aside from the oil/wood dust residue
that builds up. FWIW.
Max


There, now from your actual experience I am learning something. Thank you!
What kind* and brand* and model* of lathe is it?

Alex

WoodMangler wrote:
And tell him to read the FAQ before posting. Unless, of course, he's
all-knowing. In which case he can start posting immediately.

Now let's also consider he knew what was in the FAQ before
it was ever posted.

How do he keep it all straight?

UA100

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 18:41:37 -0700, wrote:

I've seen it in the
damnedest of places- spray cans of it for lubricating electrical
equipment, for instance...

I managed to ruin a few batches of home-brewed oil finish until I
spotted the problem.

I was using an ex- chemistry lab stirrer hotplate for heating my oil.
At some past time, this must have been filled with a silicone oil, as
a bain marie around the flask being heated. The remaining traces in
the bowl were enough to "creep" into the inner flask I was using and
wind up in my oil finish.
--
Smert' spamionam

"RonB" wrote in message news:jH8dd.5652$EZ.2170@okepread07...
Kinda Interesting:

I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and noticed
Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle talcum powder
on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser. They say the fine
powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture intrusion. Should be
done weekly.


Talc is primarily magnesium tetrasilicate and provides electrowhateveritscalled
protection for iron. AFAIK, 'moisture intrusion' is not an issue.

The iron pillar at Qutab Minar, India has been preserved for about 1700 years
by traces of magnesium compounds on it's surface and in the soil.

--

FF

Andy Dingley wrote in message . ..
...

In _ONE_ infamous case, a study of the talc filler used for making
children's crayons was found to contain a miniscule, but detectable,
level of asbestos. Cue instant hysteria from the "Think of the
_CHILDREN_" brigade. This trivial and insignificant case has been
blown up out of all proportion ever since.

Has asbestos ever been a legitimate health concern other than
though exposure by inhalation?

If your kid inhales a crayon, asbestosis would seem to be the least
of his worries.

--

FF

In article ,
Andy Dingley wrote:

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 22:01:31 GMT, "Mike Zuchick"
wrote:

Ron, I simply add a several coats of a good Car Wax to my Iron or Steel
tops. No rust and as smooth as glass.

Car wax ? bad idea. Your finishing attempts will be contaminated by
silicones, yea unto the seventh generation.

That's why I use Bowling Ally Wax or "Butcher's Wax" that is in a can at
nearly every hardware store. I have a 50's era Craftsman TS which I
bought used and waxed the table regularly. No build-up to speak of with
this wax, which I also use on instruments. For reasons too long to
mention , I haven't used the shop for several years and when I stopped I
waxed the saw and today there is nary a spec of rust or anything. And
our basement isn't AC, so in the summer when it's hot/humid, the floor
sweats from being 4 feet below grade and the saw is fine.

--
Regards,
JP
"The measure of a man is what he will do
knowing he will get nothing in return"

In article ,
"Bill" wrote:

I use it on climbing harness's for Navy PMS as a rust preventive, works
better than 2190 TEP. You should also know it is considered a hazardous
material by the military.
"Mike Zuchick" wrote in message
. com...


--
Christ is in our Midst!

Ron, I simply add a several coats of a good Car Wax to my Iron or Steel
tops. No rust and as smooth as glass.

God Bless, Michael

Free Plans @ WWW.Cedar-Art.Com

"RonB" wrote in message
news:jH8dd.5652$EZ.2170@okepread07...
Kinda Interesting:

I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and
noticed Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle
talcum powder on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser. They
say the fine powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture
intrusion. Should be done weekly.

Anyone else heard of or tried this?




Talc is hazardous because if you get a quantity of it in the air, mixed
with oxygen, it can be an explosive mixture! Just like a grain elevator.
You may remember your chem. teacher putting lycopodium powder in a
container and lighting it...well, talc can do that too! I'd also suppose
that talc in the air in large quantities, should you drop a can of it,
byt the fan in the shop for example, could affect breathing if you had
no mask on, supposing the mask would stop particles that small.

That's why it's hazardous.

--
Regards,
JP
"The measure of a man is what he will do
knowing he will get nothing in return"

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 14:51:14 GMT, Jim Polaski
wrote:

Talc is hazardous because if you get a quantity of it in the air, mixed
with oxygen, it can be an explosive mixture!

Like hell it can.

It's a fecking silicate ! It's already about as "burned" as you're
going to get it.

Don't tell me - if the dust collector happens to suck it up, static
electricity could discharge and blow the whole workshop up !

Don't tell me - if the dust collector happens to suck it up, static
electricity could discharge and blow the whole workshop up !


Only if the rigid piping is PVC. ;-)

Jim Polaski wrote:

In article ,
"Bill" wrote:

I use it on climbing harness's for Navy PMS as a rust preventive, works
better than 2190 TEP. You should also know it is considered a hazardous
material by the military.
"Mike Zuchick" wrote in message
. com...


--
Christ is in our Midst!

Ron, I simply add a several coats of a good Car Wax to my Iron or Steel
tops. No rust and as smooth as glass.

God Bless, Michael

Free Plans @ WWW.Cedar-Art.Com

"RonB" wrote in message
news:jH8dd.5652$EZ.2170@okepread07...
Kinda Interesting:

I was unpacking my new Powermatic 54A Jointer yesterday evening and
noticed Powermatic's suggestion for table rust protection. Sprinkle
talcum powder on the table and rub it in with a blackboard eraser.
They say the fine powder fills pores in the metal and blocks moisture
intrusion. Should be done weekly.

Anyone else heard of or tried this?




Talc is hazardous because if you get a quantity of it in the air, mixed
with oxygen, it can be an explosive mixture! Just like a grain elevator.
You may remember your chem. teacher putting lycopodium powder in a
container and lighting it...well, talc can do that too! I'd also suppose
that talc in the air in large quantities, should you drop a can of it,
byt the fan in the shop for example, could affect breathing if you had
no mask on, supposing the mask would stop particles that small.

That's why it's hazardous.

Uh, Jim, leaving aside the fact that most of what you say above is just
plain wrong, if this is the way you react to the thought of putting a
little bit of talc on a power tool for rust protection I shudder to think
what your reaction is going to be the first time you see somebody putting
together a batch of cookies.


--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

WOW! - HERE WAS A "GENERAL INFO" POST THAT SPUN COMPLETELY OUT OF CONTROL!

Actually, As I posted earlier I have used SLIPIT successfully for several
years. Will continue to do so.

We really need to get this election over with. Even silly On-Topic posts
are getting everyone's hackles up.

In rec.crafts.woodturning Andy Dingley wrote:: On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 21:13:21 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
: wrote:

: Talc and asbestos are both amphibole minerals (a whole lot of minerals
: are amphiboles - if it's a calcium / magnesium silicate, chances are
: that it's an amphibole). _Some_ talc deposits have associated asbestos
: deposits with them. _Some_ talc minerals have been mined from these
: deposits, leading to contamination with asbestos.

: If you're selecting talc to make cosmetic grade talcum powder, you
: didn't use these deposits anyway. You wanted something that milled
: finely, and the last thing you need is some tough old fibre in there.

Thanks for the correction.

I did a quick Google search, and found this:

http://www.preventcancer.com/consume...etics/talc.htm
http://www.doctorgeorge.com/article.php?sid=688

which cite studies suggesting that talc by itself is a carcinogen.


-- Andy Barss