![]() |
Apple
Thanks to nature (wind) and my neighbor (cum chainsaw), I've just acquired a
sizeable lot of apple wood. Some of the pieces are 20-24" in diameter, most roughly 14", and the heartwood is a medium red/brown. Any thoughts on turning apple? Ease? Precautions? Finishing? TIA, Max |
Apple
"Maxprop" wrote:
Any thoughts on turning apple? Ease? Precautions? Finishing? Beautiful wood. Difficult - well, easy to turn and finish, IMHO, but moves a great deal and is prone to cracking - might want to apply whatever method(s) you believe in with some fervor. ie, boiling, ldd, paper bags, anchorseal, microwave... Or just turn it and see what happens. Or try drying the blanks first, but unless you are making small blanks (or parts for segmenting), I think you'll have better luck with at least roughing it green, and might want to try finish turning a few green and letting them go oval. -- Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by |
Apple
On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 23:26:57 GMT, "Maxprop"
wrote: Thanks to nature (wind) and my neighbor (cum chainsaw), I've just acquired a sizeable lot of apple wood. Some of the pieces are 20-24" in diameter, most roughly 14", and the heartwood is a medium red/brown. Any thoughts on turning apple? Ease? Precautions? Finishing? Cracks like crazy, as most fruitwoods are prone to. Although, I've had pretty good luck drying wet pieces in the microwave, as well as using LDD. Split any large pieces lengthwise, ASAP, and end coat them with Anchorseal, if you have it. You can try mismixed latex paint, but I've found it to be almost useless in this application. It turns beautifully wet or dry, has gorgeous sapwood and heartwood. The crotch pieces make nice bowls, especially if you have a crotch with three or more limbs coming out of it. Finish as you would any other moderately soft hardwood. Depends on what you're using it for. I've used danish oil, beeswax, poly and mineral oil/beeswax, all with decent results. -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
Apple
"Ecnerwal" wrote in message "Maxprop" wrote: Any thoughts on turning apple? Ease? Precautions? Finishing? Beautiful wood. Difficult - well, easy to turn and finish, IMHO, but moves a great deal and is prone to cracking - might want to apply whatever method(s) you believe in with some fervor. ie, boiling, ldd, paper bags, anchorseal, microwave... I ran out of Anchorseal, so I resorted to lavishly applying some white latex paint to the ends of the logs. I plan to begin cutting some of them up soon into bowl blanks. I have too much wood to turn all of it now, so some will no doubt dry, and I'll most likely turn a few rough bowls green. Max |
Apple
"Chuck" wrote in message ... On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 23:26:57 GMT, "Maxprop" wrote: Thanks to nature (wind) and my neighbor (cum chainsaw), I've just acquired a sizeable lot of apple wood. Some of the pieces are 20-24" in diameter, most roughly 14", and the heartwood is a medium red/brown. Any thoughts on turning apple? Ease? Precautions? Finishing? Cracks like crazy, as most fruitwoods are prone to. Although, I've had pretty good luck drying wet pieces in the microwave, as well as using LDD. Split any large pieces lengthwise, ASAP, and end coat them with Anchorseal, if you have it. You can try mismixed latex paint, but I've found it to be almost useless in this application. Uh oh. It turns beautifully wet or dry, has gorgeous sapwood and heartwood. The crotch pieces make nice bowls, especially if you have a crotch with three or more limbs coming out of it. Finish as you would any other moderately soft hardwood. Depends on what you're using it for. I've used danish oil, beeswax, poly and mineral oil/beeswax, all with decent results. I have lots of stock to experiment with. Thanks for the advice. Max |
Apple
"Maxprop" wrote in message ink.net... Thanks to nature (wind) and my neighbor (cum chainsaw), I've just acquired a sizeable lot of apple wood. Some of the pieces are 20-24" in diameter, most roughly 14", and the heartwood is a medium red/brown. Any thoughts on turning apple? Ease? Precautions? Finishing? =========================== Max, Try turning a few pieces like a rimless platter, but with a small spigot at center. Allow it to dry. It will warp like crazy in the process, leaving you with some "art" pieces. One thing, though, is that you need to do it fast, as it will warp on the lathe while you're turning it. You may be able to slow this down with a water spray bottle. Good luck with it. Ken Moon Webberville, TX |
Apple
"Ken Moon" wrote in message "Maxprop" wrote in message Thanks to nature (wind) and my neighbor (cum chainsaw), I've just acquired a sizeable lot of apple wood. Some of the pieces are 20-24" in diameter, most roughly 14", and the heartwood is a medium red/brown. Any thoughts on turning apple? Ease? Precautions? Finishing? =========================== Max, Try turning a few pieces like a rimless platter, but with a small spigot at center. Allow it to dry. It will warp like crazy in the process, leaving you with some "art" pieces. One thing, though, is that you need to do it fast, as it will warp on the lathe while you're turning it. You may be able to slow this down with a water spray bottle. Good luck with it. This stuff is amazing, Ken, and you're absolutely right. I turned an 8" rough bowl today, wrapped it in newspaper, placed it in a plastic bag, and checked it about an hour ago. Indeed it was already becoming oblong as it dried. I may try boiling my rough turnings, but then again I may split the stuff up and have some fragrant firewood instead. Gotta admit I'm disappointed. The heartwood is lovely. Max |
Apple
I've turned some smaller apple bowls, and while they did turn very easily,
they also warped a lot. But I think that adds some character to bowls myself. Pix at http://www.woodenschu.com/natural.htm in the upper left-hand corner. Click on the thumbnail for a larger picture. "Maxprop" wrote in message ink.net... Thanks to nature (wind) and my neighbor (cum chainsaw), I've just acquired a sizeable lot of apple wood. Some of the pieces are 20-24" in diameter, most roughly 14", and the heartwood is a medium red/brown. Any thoughts on turning apple? Ease? Precautions? Finishing? TIA, Max |
Apple
"Tim Schubach" wrote in message I've turned some smaller apple bowls, and while they did turn very easily, they also warped a lot. But I think that adds some character to bowls myself. Pix at http://www.woodenschu.com/natural.htm in the upper left-hand corner. Click on the thumbnail for a larger picture. Your work is very nice, Tim. And the apple bowls have beautiful grain patterns. Too bad the stuff is so unstable. The rough bowl I turned yesterday is still moving dramatically. I may attempt to turn some to the finished level and let them warp, as has been suggested. Max |
Apple
"Chuck" wrote in message On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 04:18:54 GMT, "Maxprop" wrote: I may try boiling my rough turnings, but then again I may split the stuff up and have some fragrant firewood instead. Gotta admit I'm disappointed. The heartwood is lovely. Max, Absolutely save your shavings and small pieces for your barbecue. Soak them in water for half an hour or so, wrap them up in aluminum foil, poke a couple of holes in the foil and place it directly on the coals. This is just awesome smoke for pork, and it tastes pretty good with any other meat, too. Waste not want not! I still have a huge bag of mesquite chips sent to me by my brother in California, but your suggestion is intriguing. The aroma from the logs (sitting temporarily in the driveway) is so pungent that we can smell it from the living room. Max |
Apple
I hate to disagree with everyone, but Apple wood seems to have developed an
"urban legend" around a nasty behavior. I have never found that Apple takes any more caution than many other common turning woods, and there are a lot of other woods that will warp and crack more. Maybe I am just lucky. My experience with Apple has been to let it do all of the movement and cracking BEFORE turning it on the lathe. I do this by cutting it into lathe ready round bowl blanks and coating them 100% all over with AnchorSeal or other wax. Get the AnchorSeal good and thick by applying additional coats before it has a chance to dry. Then set it in the corner of the shop until next year. Don't try to make the blanks too big or too thick. 10 and 12" diameter and 4" or less thickness would be the maximum, and stay away from the pith. You will lose a few of them, but the results are worth the wait. Dry Apple turns and sands easily. Russ Fairfield Post Falls, Idaho http://www.woodturnerruss.com/ |
Apple
On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 04:18:54 GMT, "Maxprop"
wrote: I may try boiling my rough turnings, but then again I may split the stuff up and have some fragrant firewood instead. Gotta admit I'm disappointed. The heartwood is lovely. Max, Absolutely save your shavings and small pieces for your barbecue. Soak them in water for half an hour or so, wrap them up in aluminum foil, poke a couple of holes in the foil and place it directly on the coals. This is just awesome smoke for pork, and it tastes pretty good with any other meat, too. Waste not want not! -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
Apple
Given the pruning habits of old orchardists, the wood was likely subjected
to many different loads in its life, thus the bad behavior. You may have been more fortunate, and received wood from neglected trees rather than carefully tended orchards. Tends to cooperate better in drying. With the modern practice of using espaliered trees, we'll see a lot less apple to turn in the future. I'm fortunate to have a lot of volunteers along the old road where kids threw cores out of the sleigh on the way to school, and quite a few in the woods, where they grow somewhat more vertically. Only one that tasted good to we humans was one down by the river which the bank beavers dropped out of sheer spite, in my belief, since they didn't eat the bark. "Russ Fairfield" wrote in message ... I hate to disagree with everyone, but Apple wood seems to have developed an "urban legend" around a nasty behavior. I have never found that Apple takes any more caution than many other common turning woods, and there are a lot of other woods that will warp and crack more. Maybe I am just lucky. |
Apple
On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 13:39:01 GMT, "Maxprop"
wrote: I still have a huge bag of mesquite chips sent to me by my brother in California, but your suggestion is intriguing. The aroma from the logs (sitting temporarily in the driveway) is so pungent that we can smell it from the living room. Not to dis the mesquite people, but there's simply nothing like the aroma and flavor of apple-smoked ribs, chops, shoulder, sausage, etc. Heck, if you try it and don't like it, you can always send the leftovers (wood or meat!) to me. I try to use bigger pieces, more like chips, than I do the shavings, because the chips and chunks last longer in the fire. -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
Apple
"Chuck" wrote in message Not to dis the mesquite people, but there's simply nothing like the aroma and flavor of apple-smoked ribs, chops, shoulder, sausage, etc. Heck, if you try it and don't like it, you can always send the leftovers (wood or meat!) to me. I try to use bigger pieces, more like chips, than I do the shavings, because the chips and chunks last longer in the fire. Last Thanksgiving I slow-cooked a turkey on the old Weber kettle. Took about three hours, and rather than throw chips or a foil bag of chips on the coals, I put a waterlogged chunk of hickory on the grill adjacent to the bird. The result was superb. A bit of smokey flavor, but mostly just a rich hickory aroma and some flavor. I'm definitely going to try this with apple this year. Max |
Apple
"Russ Fairfield" wrote in message I hate to disagree with everyone, but Apple wood seems to have developed an "urban legend" around a nasty behavior. I have never found that Apple takes any more caution than many other common turning woods, and there are a lot of other woods that will warp and crack more. Maybe I am just lucky. My experience with Apple has been to let it do all of the movement and cracking BEFORE turning it on the lathe. I do this by cutting it into lathe ready round bowl blanks and coating them 100% all over with AnchorSeal or other wax. Get the AnchorSeal good and thick by applying additional coats before it has a chance to dry. Then set it in the corner of the shop until next year. Don't try to make the blanks too big or too thick. 10 and 12" diameter and 4" or less thickness would be the maximum, and stay away from the pith. You will lose a few of them, but the results are worth the wait. Dry Apple turns and sands easily. After reading the other posts, I had somewhat decided to try this anyway. I've cut some 3" and 4" slabs for drying, but haven't cut them into rounds. I'm fresh out of Anchorseal, so I coated them heavily with latex paint--which probably won't help much--and stacked them in a corner of the basement wrapped in newspaper. If the latex will help long enough for me to get a 5 gal bucket of Anchorseal, I'll probably have a few chunks that survive the drying process. I'm always open to suggestions. Max |
Apple
Hello Russ I think your right on that "urban legend", yes apple does warp, crack, etc., but in my experience like you say not more than a lot of other wood. What seems to make a great deal of difference though is how or where it grows, in the commercial apple orchard tree where with heavy feeding shaping and heavy load of fruit make for more build (grown) in tension and stress, where as for a tree grown wild this is not the case and there is less stress release and warping, anyway apple is one off my favorite woods , it can have some beautiful grain and color, sometimes with spot burls and curly grain. I usually rough turn and stuff it in a paper bag for a few weeks to a few months depending on the drying conditioning, apply CA on any spot that is cracking prone and keep a close eye on the drying progress the first couple of weeks and finish turn in 1 to 2 years Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo Russ Fairfield wrote: I hate to disagree with everyone, but Apple wood seems to have developed an "urban legend" around a nasty behavior. I have never found that Apple takes any more caution than many other common turning woods, and there are a lot of other woods that will warp and crack more. Maybe I am just lucky. My experience with Apple has been to let it do all of the movement and cracking BEFORE turning it on the lathe. I do this by cutting it into lathe ready round bowl blanks and coating them 100% all over with AnchorSeal or other wax. Get the AnchorSeal good and thick by applying additional coats before it has a chance to dry. Then set it in the corner of the shop until next year. Don't try to make the blanks too big or too thick. 10 and 12" diameter and 4" or less thickness would be the maximum, and stay away from the pith. You will lose a few of them, but the results are worth the wait. Dry Apple turns and sands easily. Russ Fairfield Post Falls, Idaho http://www.woodturnerruss.com/ |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:14 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter