Hello Group,

My apologies. I used to follow this group, but I thought it folded. On a whim, I look today and I'm glad to see it's still alive. Perhaps you can help me with a turning tool question. I will also post to rec.woodworking.

I have three sets of full size (not for pen turning) turning tools. I don't know their history as I got each set from descendants of the original owners. I am trying to identify whether they have good steel and are worth keeping for my future turning aspirations. In the future, I expect to turn some furniture parts, a few bowls, but turning will not be the main part of my woodworking efforts.

I think the sets are pre-1980s and probably pre-1970s or even 1960s. They are described as follows:

Set1 (9 tools) - These have a label on the handle that says "Craftsman" (ala Sears) and that label could be a decal. It is well attached. The handles are wood and stained red. The steel is dull and looks, to the uneducated eye, as the same as I see on old, quality chisels. No markings on the steel.

Set2 (8tools) - These have a blue paper label on natural wood handles that says "Marples Made in Sheffield England". The steel is bright and some are marked (surface printed) with both imperial and metric sizes.

Set3 (8 tools) - These have the brand stamped into both the steel and handle, which is natural wood. The lettering says "Disston USA" with a keystone logo. The letters and logo in the handle are colored red. The steel is bright.

These all have some light surface rust, which should clean up fine, however the rust on the Craftsman tools gives me more a feeling of quality steel (gut feeling, not sure why).

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they have good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can provide is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

On 12/03/2016 4:17 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
Hello Group,

My apologies. I used to follow this group, but I thought it folded. On a whim, I look today and I'm glad to see it's still alive. Perhaps you can help me with a turning tool question. I will also post to rec.woodworking.

I have three sets of full size (not for pen turning) turning tools. I don't know their history as I got each set from descendants of the original owners. I am trying to identify whether they have good steel and are worth keeping for my future turning aspirations. In the future, I expect to turn some furniture parts, a few bowls, but turning will not be the main part of my woodworking efforts.

I think the sets are pre-1980s and probably pre-1970s or even 1960s. They are described as follows:

Set1 (9 tools) - These have a label on the handle that says "Craftsman" (ala Sears) and that label could be a decal. It is well attached. The handles are wood and stained red. The steel is dull and looks, to the uneducated eye, as the same as I see on old, quality chisels. No markings on the steel.

Set2 (8tools) - These have a blue paper label on natural wood handles that says "Marples Made in Sheffield England". The steel is bright and some are marked (surface printed) with both imperial and metric sizes.

Set3 (8 tools) - These have the brand stamped into both the steel and handle, which is natural wood. The lettering says "Disston USA" with a keystone logo. The letters and logo in the handle are colored red. The steel is bright.

These all have some light surface rust, which should clean up fine, however the rust on the Craftsman tools gives me more a feeling of quality steel (gut feeling, not sure why).

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they have good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can provide is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

Is it possible for you to photo them and post a link to Tinypic or a
similar service?
I think the Marples set is almost certainly carbon steel. In fact, I
have a set of Marples that came with my first lathe. They made lots like
that but I don't think that they got into the high speed steel market
that is dominated by Sorby and Henry Taylor. I expect the Sears and
Disston tools are the same.
Graham

Bill Leonhardt wrote:
Hello Group,

My apologies. I used to follow this group, but I thought it folded. On a whim, I look today and I'm glad to see it's still alive. Perhaps you can help me with a turning tool question. I will also post to rec.woodworking.

I have three sets of full size (not for pen turning) turning tools. I don't know their history as I got each set from descendants of the original owners. I am trying to identify whether they have good steel and are worth keeping for my future turning aspirations. In the future, I expect to turn some furniture parts, a few bowls, but turning will not be the main part of my woodworking efforts.

I think the sets are pre-1980s and probably pre-1970s or even 1960s. They are described as follows:

Set1 (9 tools) - These have a label on the handle that says "Craftsman" (ala Sears) and that label could be a decal. It is well attached. The handles are wood and stained red. The steel is dull and looks, to the uneducated eye, as the same as I see on old, quality chisels. No markings on the steel.

Set2 (8tools) - These have a blue paper label on natural wood handles that says "Marples Made in Sheffield England". The steel is bright and some are marked (surface printed) with both imperial and metric sizes.

Set3 (8 tools) - These have the brand stamped into both the steel and handle, which is natural wood. The lettering says "Disston USA" with a keystone logo. The letters and logo in the handle are colored red. The steel is bright.

These all have some light surface rust, which should clean up fine, however the rust on the Craftsman tools gives me more a feeling of quality steel (gut feeling, not sure why).

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they have good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can provide is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

You can tell somewhat by the sparks thrown off during sharpening. I
am not a machinist and do not remember the particulars but you can
probably look it up somewhere. Probably post the question in the
metalworking newsgroup would give you quick advice.

--
GW Ross

Between two evils, always pick the one
you never tried before.

Bill Leonhardt wrote in
:

Hello Group,

My apologies. I used to follow this group, but I thought it folded.
On a whim, I look today and I'm glad to see it's still alive. Perhaps
you can help me with a turning tool question. I will also post to
rec.woodworking.

I have three sets of full size (not for pen turning) turning tools. I
don't know their history as I got each set from descendants of the
original owners. I am trying to identify whether they have good steel
and are worth keeping for my future turning aspirations. In the
future, I expect to turn some furniture parts, a few bowls, but
turning will not be the main part of my woodworking efforts.

I think the sets are pre-1980s and probably pre-1970s or even 1960s.
They are described as follows:

Set1 (9 tools) - These have a label on the handle that says
"Craftsman" (ala Sears) and that label could be a decal. It is well
attached. The handles are wood and stained red. The steel is dull
and looks, to the uneducated eye, as the same as I see on old, quality
chisels. No markings on the steel.

Set2 (8tools) - These have a blue paper label on natural wood handles
that says "Marples Made in Sheffield England". The steel is bright
and some are marked (surface printed) with both imperial and metric
sizes.

Set3 (8 tools) - These have the brand stamped into both the steel and
handle, which is natural wood. The lettering says "Disston USA" with
a keystone logo. The letters and logo in the handle are colored red.
The steel is bright.

These all have some light surface rust, which should clean up fine,
however the rust on the Craftsman tools gives me more a feeling of
quality steel (gut feeling, not sure why).

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they
have good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can
provide is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

I've got some Menards cheapies that work fine. They don't hold an edge
for very long, but sharpening is just part of woodturning. One way to
figure out how good the steel is for woodturning is to sharpen a tool and
use it. I use a grinder to form the majority of the edge and a sander to
do the rest. Once I get the edge I want, it takes more time to walk to
the sander than it does to renew the edge.

Grab the one that's got the profile you want, give it a pass on the
sander, and have fun!

Puckdropper

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
...

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they have
good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can provide
is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill Leonhardt

From their age, Bill, they are almost certain to be high-carbon steel. The
way to tell is to put the heel of one of them to a grinder. If it throws off
a shower of sparks it's high-carbon steel; if it just throws off occasional
single sparks it's high-speed steel.

High-carbon steel tools dull more quickly than HSS steel, and require more
care in sharpening since you can easily overheat them on the grinder and
cause them to lose their temper. But on the other hand if you're careful
with them you can actually get a sharper edge on them than you can with HSS.
Turning tools, however, are usually not sharpened to the type of edge you'd
insist on for a bench chisel, so that may not be so important. Lots of
people just grind but don't bother to hone.

The ones labeled Craftsman are likely the oldest; sets of these tools were
sold with the old Craftsman lathes that were being sold way back in the
early 20th century. I have a set myself that came with an ancient tube-style
Craftsman lathe that probably dates to the 40's if not before.

In my opinion Marples tools today don't have the reputation they used to
have - those blue-handled bench chisels you see in all the tool catalogs
don't hold up very well - but back in the day they were top-quality tools.
That could be a pretty good set; the Disstons I don't know anything about.
If these sets are bright steel, then at least you know they've been well
cared for.

My old Craftsman tools sharpen up real nice, but I mostly keep them for
backup and for grinding to special profiles that I may use only
occasionally. That's a cheap and easy way to experiment with different
grinds. Sharpen a few of them up and put them to some hard wood and see how
their edges hold up. It won't take long to figure out which of them are
keepers.

Much depends on how you're going to be using them. If you're going to be
doing just occasional turning they'd probably do you just fine. But if
you're going to be standing at the lathe all day long, invest in some HSS
tools.

Tom

They are all likely just fine and quality.

You have to try them out on the wood that you choose.

I use a 1946 set that says Sears - but they are made by tool companies
and the quality of a set depends on the maker, not the seller.
Contracts likely last 5 or 10 years at the most. Quality changes with
contract and company doing the contract.

Marples has had a good name - don't know that set. or the other.
Does it say Sheffield Steel or made in town. Might be anything or
something special.

Know Disston as a company. A good company name but see sears on the
contacts. Likely this one as well.

They all are makers of tools and under contract with xyz they make a set
to make margin and xyz makes margin.

Try them. Simple as that.

Martin


On 3/12/2016 5:17 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
Hello Group,

My apologies. I used to follow this group, but I thought it folded. On a whim, I look today and I'm glad to see it's still alive. Perhaps you can help me with a turning tool question. I will also post to rec.woodworking.

I have three sets of full size (not for pen turning) turning tools. I don't know their history as I got each set from descendants of the original owners. I am trying to identify whether they have good steel and are worth keeping for my future turning aspirations. In the future, I expect to turn some furniture parts, a few bowls, but turning will not be the main part of my woodworking efforts.

I think the sets are pre-1980s and probably pre-1970s or even 1960s. They are described as follows:

Set1 (9 tools) - These have a label on the handle that says "Craftsman" (ala Sears) and that label could be a decal. It is well attached. The handles are wood and stained red. The steel is dull and looks, to the uneducated eye, as the same as I see on old, quality chisels. No markings on the steel.

Set2 (8tools) - These have a blue paper label on natural wood handles that says "Marples Made in Sheffield England". The steel is bright and some are marked (surface printed) with both imperial and metric sizes.

Set3 (8 tools) - These have the brand stamped into both the steel and handle, which is natural wood. The lettering says "Disston USA" with a keystone logo. The letters and logo in the handle are colored red. The steel is bright.

These all have some light surface rust, which should clean up fine, however the rust on the Craftsman tools gives me more a feeling of quality steel (gut feeling, not sure why).

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they have good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can provide is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

On Saturday, March 12, 2016 at 5:17:39 PM UTC-6, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
Hello Group,

My apologies. I used to follow this group, but I thought it folded. On a whim, I look today and I'm glad to see it's still alive. Perhaps you can help me with a turning tool question. I will also post to rec.woodworking..

I have three sets of full size (not for pen turning) turning tools. I don't know their history as I got each set from descendants of the original owners. I am trying to identify whether they have good steel and are worth keeping for my future turning aspirations. In the future, I expect to turn some furniture parts, a few bowls, but turning will not be the main part of my woodworking efforts.

I think the sets are pre-1980s and probably pre-1970s or even 1960s. They are described as follows:

Set1 (9 tools) - These have a label on the handle that says "Craftsman" (ala Sears) and that label could be a decal. It is well attached. The handles are wood and stained red. The steel is dull and looks, to the uneducated eye, as the same as I see on old, quality chisels. No markings on the steel.

Set2 (8tools) - These have a blue paper label on natural wood handles that says "Marples Made in Sheffield England". The steel is bright and some are marked (surface printed) with both imperial and metric sizes.

Set3 (8 tools) - These have the brand stamped into both the steel and handle, which is natural wood. The lettering says "Disston USA" with a keystone logo. The letters and logo in the handle are colored red. The steel is bright.

These all have some light surface rust, which should clean up fine, however the rust on the Craftsman tools gives me more a feeling of quality steel (gut feeling, not sure why).

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they have good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can provide is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt


As Martin said, "Try them." My main set of turning tools (spindle) came from Harbor Freight. Which is to say, "The quality is more important than the label, and the only way to know what you have is to try them."

If, on the other hand, you are wanting the history, for history's sake, then one of the old tool sites is the place to go.

Thanks for all the advice on my tools. Sometimes (most times?) I over think things. The best advice was to just use them and get on with your life. :-)

I am rebuilding a Rockwell 46-111 now and hope to get it on-line soon so I can really give these tools a tryout.

Thanks again to all respondents.

Bill

On Saturday, March 12, 2016 at 6:17:39 PM UTC-5, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
Hello Group,

My apologies. I used to follow this group, but I thought it folded. On a whim, I look today and I'm glad to see it's still alive. Perhaps you can help me with a turning tool question. I will also post to rec.woodworking..

I have three sets of full size (not for pen turning) turning tools. I don't know their history as I got each set from descendants of the original owners. I am trying to identify whether they have good steel and are worth keeping for my future turning aspirations. In the future, I expect to turn some furniture parts, a few bowls, but turning will not be the main part of my woodworking efforts.

I think the sets are pre-1980s and probably pre-1970s or even 1960s. They are described as follows:

Set1 (9 tools) - These have a label on the handle that says "Craftsman" (ala Sears) and that label could be a decal. It is well attached. The handles are wood and stained red. The steel is dull and looks, to the uneducated eye, as the same as I see on old, quality chisels. No markings on the steel.

Set2 (8tools) - These have a blue paper label on natural wood handles that says "Marples Made in Sheffield England". The steel is bright and some are marked (surface printed) with both imperial and metric sizes.

Set3 (8 tools) - These have the brand stamped into both the steel and handle, which is natural wood. The lettering says "Disston USA" with a keystone logo. The letters and logo in the handle are colored red. The steel is bright.

These all have some light surface rust, which should clean up fine, however the rust on the Craftsman tools gives me more a feeling of quality steel (gut feeling, not sure why).

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they have good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can provide is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

On Mon, 14 Mar 2016 09:22:01 -0700 (PDT)
Bill Leonhardt wrote:

I am rebuilding a Rockwell 46-111 now and hope to get it on-line soon
so I can really give these tools a tryout.

i am curious to know what it means to rebuild a lathe

do you have to put new bearings
new motor
new paint
new wiring

all the above

sounds like an interesting project

i see these models on craigslist

I bought the lathe maybe 15 years ago and it sat for a long time. When I went to use it, the bearings seemed to not be good even though I ran it a lot to loosen up whatever grease it had. I also managed to bend the pulley some, although I don't think that was too serious. Anyway, I was able to purchase a pulley and new bearings on Ebay so I just need the time to do the work. I like the fact that this is an old tool and I am hopeful I can learn to "turn" out some quality work.

For years I thought about how to build a stand and mount a motor on a hinged plate so speed changes would be easy. I then came upon some one selling an old lathe. I wasn't interested in that lathe since the ways were just bent sheet metal, but it came with a set of cast iron legs. So stylish and heavy. I bought the package (which also included one of my tool sets) and will use these legs. They are pretty rusty, so they get new paint.

So now I'm back to figuring out the motor mount and one other thing. I know how desirable it is to have a heavy stand but, at the same time, I would like to make this lathe mobile (well, at least semi-mobile). Been studying retractable wheels.

Anyway, that's where I am.

I have one additional question: Does anyone use a link-belt with their lathe? Is it noisy?

Thanks,

Bill

On Monday, March 14, 2016 at 1:08:12 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 14 Mar 2016 09:22:01 -0700 (PDT)
Bill Leonhardt wrote:

I am rebuilding a Rockwell 46-111 now and hope to get it on-line soon
so I can really give these tools a tryout.

i am curious to know what it means to rebuild a lathe

do you have to put new bearings
new motor
new paint
new wiring

all the above

sounds like an interesting project

i see these models on craigslist

Just curious, do you use a sanding belt or disc? What grit?

Bill

On Sunday, March 13, 2016 at 1:18:21 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Bill Leonhardt wrote in
:

Hello Group,

My apologies. I used to follow this group, but I thought it folded.
On a whim, I look today and I'm glad to see it's still alive. Perhaps
you can help me with a turning tool question. I will also post to
rec.woodworking.

I have three sets of full size (not for pen turning) turning tools. I
don't know their history as I got each set from descendants of the
original owners. I am trying to identify whether they have good steel
and are worth keeping for my future turning aspirations. In the
future, I expect to turn some furniture parts, a few bowls, but
turning will not be the main part of my woodworking efforts.

I think the sets are pre-1980s and probably pre-1970s or even 1960s.
They are described as follows:

Set1 (9 tools) - These have a label on the handle that says
"Craftsman" (ala Sears) and that label could be a decal. It is well
attached. The handles are wood and stained red. The steel is dull
and looks, to the uneducated eye, as the same as I see on old, quality
chisels. No markings on the steel.

Set2 (8tools) - These have a blue paper label on natural wood handles
that says "Marples Made in Sheffield England". The steel is bright
and some are marked (surface printed) with both imperial and metric
sizes.

Set3 (8 tools) - These have the brand stamped into both the steel and
handle, which is natural wood. The lettering says "Disston USA" with
a keystone logo. The letters and logo in the handle are colored red.
The steel is bright.

These all have some light surface rust, which should clean up fine,
however the rust on the Craftsman tools gives me more a feeling of
quality steel (gut feeling, not sure why).

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they
have good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can
provide is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

I've got some Menards cheapies that work fine. They don't hold an edge
for very long, but sharpening is just part of woodturning. One way to
figure out how good the steel is for woodturning is to sharpen a tool and
use it. I use a grinder to form the majority of the edge and a sander to
do the rest. Once I get the edge I want, it takes more time to walk to
the sander than it does to renew the edge.

Grab the one that's got the profile you want, give it a pass on the
sander, and have fun!

Puckdropper

On 15/03/2016 7:22 AM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
I bought the lathe maybe 15 years ago and it sat for a long time. When I went to use it, the bearings seemed to not be good even though I ran it a lot to loosen up whatever grease it had. I also managed to bend the pulley some, although I don't think that was too serious. Anyway, I was able to purchase a pulley and new bearings on Ebay so I just need the time to do the work. I like the fact that this is an old tool and I am hopeful I can learn to "turn" out some quality work.

For years I thought about how to build a stand and mount a motor on a hinged plate so speed changes would be easy. I then came upon some one selling an old lathe. I wasn't interested in that lathe since the ways were just bent sheet metal, but it came with a set of cast iron legs. So stylish and heavy. I bought the package (which also included one of my tool sets) and will use these legs. They are pretty rusty, so they get new paint.

So now I'm back to figuring out the motor mount and one other thing. I know how desirable it is to have a heavy stand but, at the same time, I would like to make this lathe mobile (well, at least semi-mobile). Been studying retractable wheels.

Anyway, that's where I am.

I have one additional question: Does anyone use a link-belt with their lathe? Is it noisy?

Yes! I've just installed it and it's expensive but not noisy.
It helps reduce vibration.
Graham

In article , graham
wrote:

On 15/03/2016 7:22 AM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
know how desirable it is to have a heavy stand but, at the same time, I
would like to make this lathe mobile (well, at least semi-mobile). Been
studying retractable wheels.
....
I have one additional question: Does anyone use a link-belt with their
lathe? Is it noisy?

Yes! I've just installed it and it's expensive but not noisy.
It helps reduce vibration.


The old ShopSmith (an early Greenie) lacks adequate weight (and adequate
low speed range for lathe work) as it comes, but does have a nice
retractable wheel setup, where the wheels are extended by a cam
connected to the foot pedal. On the other hand, the wheels are tiny and
pretty much assume a smooth concrete floor to be useful. There are
other, easier to build at home options for that as well. There's also
the option of "fixed casters and extendable feet" rather than
retractable casters.

If you don't move it often, a jack and a couple "machinery carts" or
4-wheel caster frames is versatile for moving everything in the shop.

I like the link-belts, and don't find them noisy.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

In article ,
Bill Leonhardt wrote:

For years I thought about how to build a stand and mount a motor on a hinged
plate so speed changes would be easy.

Depending where you are at fiscally and the like, I cannot overstate the
advantages of an actual variable speed motor. The hinged motor mount is
still handy for an easy change of speed-range/torque available, but it's
mind-blowing how handy it is to be able to twist a knob and change
speeds.

Can be "free" if you collect a free treadmill and scavenge the motor and
controller (motors on treadmills are, IME, over-rated by about 2X - ie,
a "2 hp" treadmill motor seems to be somewhat like a 3/4-1 hp normal
motor.) All of those I have met are DC, as were the industrial-motor
electronic VS setups commonly used on wood lathes back in the 1990's,
for the most part.

The "better modern approach" (no pesky DC brushes to wear out) is a
3-phase motor and a 1-phase to 3-phase VFD (unless you have 3-phase in
your shop) to control it. If those even existed in the 1990s, they were
either out of reasonable price range or nobody in the woodturning
community was aware of them. Be careful not to overspeed a motor not
rated for overspeed (ie, the VFD may let you drive a 3600 RPM motor to
7200, but the motor may not survive at that speed.)

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

On 15/03/2016 9:03 AM, Ecnerwal wrote:
In article ,
Bill Leonhardt wrote:

For years I thought about how to build a stand and mount a motor on a hinged
plate so speed changes would be easy.

Depending where you are at fiscally and the like, I cannot overstate the
advantages of an actual variable speed motor. The hinged motor mount is
still handy for an easy change of speed-range/torque available, but it's
mind-blowing how handy it is to be able to twist a knob and change
speeds.


The "better modern approach" (no pesky DC brushes to wear out) is a
3-phase motor and a 1-phase to 3-phase VFD (unless you have 3-phase in
your shop) to control it.

I've been looking into getting such a system. The trouble is that the
VFDs are vented and not suitable for dusty situations. Furthermore, the
speed controls are tiny buttons. Such a set up would cost ~Can$750 plus
the cost of running a 220v line to the lathe.
Graham

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 06:22:51 -0700 (PDT)
Bill Leonhardt wrote:

Ebay so I just need the time to do the work. I like the fact that
this is an old tool and I am hopeful I can learn to "turn" out some
quality work.


one bit advice
do not let the rebuild get in the way of turning



So now I'm back to figuring out the motor mount and one other thing.
I know how desirable it is to have a heavy stand but, at the same
time, I would like to make this lathe mobile (well, at least
semi-mobile). Been studying retractable wheels.

there are some videos of different retractable wheel ideas

as always some are better than others and it always depends on
the application

there are plenty of good wheels available

i looked at them all i think but not for a lathe

look and learn from other mobile lathe options on the market

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 09:14:27 -0600
graham wrote:

I've been looking into getting such a system. The trouble is that the
VFDs are vented and not suitable for dusty situations. Furthermore,
the speed controls are tiny buttons. Such a set up would cost ~Can
$750 plus the cost of running a 220v line to the lathe.


do some lathes use sealed motors

all the motor on all the equipment i have in the shop have vents
but maybe there is something about vfds and vents that i am missing

you can save a lot by putting in your own 220 but it depends how
far etc

On 15/03/2016 11:20 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 09:14:27 -0600
graham wrote:

I've been looking into getting such a system. The trouble is that the
VFDs are vented and not suitable for dusty situations. Furthermore,
the speed controls are tiny buttons. Such a set up would cost ~Can
$750 plus the cost of running a 220v line to the lathe.


do some lathes use sealed motors

all the motor on all the equipment i have in the shop have vents
but maybe there is something about vfds and vents that i am missing

you can save a lot by putting in your own 220 but it depends how
far etc

The motors are sealed but this is a typical VFD:
http://tiny.cc/79829x
Note the venting and the very small control buttons.
Graham

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 12:12:12 -0600
graham wrote:

The motors are sealed but this is a typical VFD:

if i ever get another lathe it is sure going to have a vfd

they really are an amazing technology

One thing I should mention is my Sears set has Fingernail grinds.
Most of the common ones today are more blunt. Mine are long ovals.
So they are complex to use when learning but are useful.
I have custom bowl made in M42 steel and they are very blunt. They
are expected to go through knots and incursions. Not metal, but mineral.

Martin

On 3/13/2016 4:06 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
They are all likely just fine and quality.

You have to try them out on the wood that you choose.

I use a 1946 set that says Sears - but they are made by tool companies
and the quality of a set depends on the maker, not the seller.
Contracts likely last 5 or 10 years at the most. Quality changes with
contract and company doing the contract.

Marples has had a good name - don't know that set. or the other.
Does it say Sheffield Steel or made in town. Might be anything or
something special.

Know Disston as a company. A good company name but see sears on the
contacts. Likely this one as well.

They all are makers of tools and under contract with xyz they make a set
to make margin and xyz makes margin.

Try them. Simple as that.

Martin


On 3/12/2016 5:17 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
Hello Group,

My apologies. I used to follow this group, but I thought it folded.
On a whim, I look today and I'm glad to see it's still alive. Perhaps
you can help me with a turning tool question. I will also post to
rec.woodworking.

I have three sets of full size (not for pen turning) turning tools. I
don't know their history as I got each set from descendants of the
original owners. I am trying to identify whether they have good steel
and are worth keeping for my future turning aspirations. In the
future, I expect to turn some furniture parts, a few bowls, but
turning will not be the main part of my woodworking efforts.

I think the sets are pre-1980s and probably pre-1970s or even 1960s.
They are described as follows:

Set1 (9 tools) - These have a label on the handle that says
"Craftsman" (ala Sears) and that label could be a decal. It is well
attached. The handles are wood and stained red. The steel is dull
and looks, to the uneducated eye, as the same as I see on old, quality
chisels. No markings on the steel.

Set2 (8tools) - These have a blue paper label on natural wood handles
that says "Marples Made in Sheffield England". The steel is bright
and some are marked (surface printed) with both imperial and metric
sizes.

Set3 (8 tools) - These have the brand stamped into both the steel and
handle, which is natural wood. The lettering says "Disston USA" with
a keystone logo. The letters and logo in the handle are colored red.
The steel is bright.

These all have some light surface rust, which should clean up fine,
however the rust on the Craftsman tools gives me more a feeling of
quality steel (gut feeling, not sure why).

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they
have good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can
provide is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

Bill Leonhardt wrote in
:

Just curious, do you use a sanding belt or disc? What grit?

Bill


I've got some Menards cheapies that work fine. They don't hold an
edge for very long, but sharpening is just part of woodturning. One
way to figure out how good the steel is for woodturning is to sharpen
a tool and use it. I use a grinder to form the majority of the edge
and a sander to do the rest. Once I get the edge I want, it takes
more time to walk to the sander than it does to renew the edge.

Grab the one that's got the profile you want, give it a pass on the
sander, and have fun!

Puckdropper


I have a 1x30 belt sander. Looks like it's 3000 grit that's my common
size. I actually use a bit of green compound to keep the belt working,
it really dulled out a while ago. But, ordering just a new belt with
shipping doesn't make sense.

I've got other grits for edge forming and all that, but the 3000 grit
with green compound is my go-to bit.

Puckdropper

In article , graham
wrote:

Note the venting and the very small control buttons.

Most (virtually all) VFDs will take a remote rotary control
(potentiometer, or just possibly rotary encoder for some models) for the
speed control. Program in the range it is to control, and spin the dial.

Focus first on wiring in remote emergency stop switches wherever you
might want one when things go wrong, (both ends of the lathe, at least)
and then put on a rotary remote for the speed.

If you are overly fussed about the vents, use a hose/duct and a fan to
provide clean air from outside. I prefer to have an independent fan/duct
blowing on any motor I'm running at low speed anyway, since the motor's
own fan does not do much if it's running slowly.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

On 16/03/2016 12:52 PM, Ecnerwal wrote:
In article , graham
wrote:

Note the venting and the very small control buttons.

Most (virtually all) VFDs will take a remote rotary control
(potentiometer, or just possibly rotary encoder for some models) for the
speed control. Program in the range it is to control, and spin the dial.

Focus first on wiring in remote emergency stop switches wherever you
might want one when things go wrong, (both ends of the lathe, at least)
and then put on a rotary remote for the speed.

I realise that but I had been hoping for one less thing to think about.
A friend had his system rewired by a retired electrical engineer for the
price of a bottle of scotch - and I have a bottle of Glenfiddich looking
for a home:-)
Graham

On Saturday, March 12, 2016 at 6:17:39 PM UTC-5, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
Hello Group,

My apologies. I used to follow this group, but I thought it folded. On a whim, I look today and I'm glad to see it's still alive. Perhaps you can help me with a turning tool question. I will also post to rec.woodworking..

I have three sets of full size (not for pen turning) turning tools. I don't know their history as I got each set from descendants of the original owners. I am trying to identify whether they have good steel and are worth keeping for my future turning aspirations. In the future, I expect to turn some furniture parts, a few bowls, but turning will not be the main part of my woodworking efforts.

I think the sets are pre-1980s and probably pre-1970s or even 1960s. They are described as follows:

Set1 (9 tools) - These have a label on the handle that says "Craftsman" (ala Sears) and that label could be a decal. It is well attached. The handles are wood and stained red. The steel is dull and looks, to the uneducated eye, as the same as I see on old, quality chisels. No markings on the steel.

Set2 (8tools) - These have a blue paper label on natural wood handles that says "Marples Made in Sheffield England". The steel is bright and some are marked (surface printed) with both imperial and metric sizes.

Set3 (8 tools) - These have the brand stamped into both the steel and handle, which is natural wood. The lettering says "Disston USA" with a keystone logo. The letters and logo in the handle are colored red. The steel is bright.

These all have some light surface rust, which should clean up fine, however the rust on the Craftsman tools gives me more a feeling of quality steel (gut feeling, not sure why).

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they have good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can provide is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

In searching for some grinder installation images, I came across a short Ernie Conover video on sharpening. About 1 minute into the video, he illustrates the sparks from HSS and carbon steel.

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/us...turning-tools/


On Saturday, March 12, 2016 at 7:31:02 PM UTC-5, G. Ross wrote:
Bill Leonhardt wrote:
Hello Group,

My apologies. I used to follow this group, but I thought it folded. On a whim, I look today and I'm glad to see it's still alive. Perhaps you can help me with a turning tool question. I will also post to rec.woodworking.

I have three sets of full size (not for pen turning) turning tools. I don't know their history as I got each set from descendants of the original owners. I am trying to identify whether they have good steel and are worth keeping for my future turning aspirations. In the future, I expect to turn some furniture parts, a few bowls, but turning will not be the main part of my woodworking efforts.

I think the sets are pre-1980s and probably pre-1970s or even 1960s. They are described as follows:

Set1 (9 tools) - These have a label on the handle that says "Craftsman" (ala Sears) and that label could be a decal. It is well attached. The handles are wood and stained red. The steel is dull and looks, to the uneducated eye, as the same as I see on old, quality chisels. No markings on the steel.

Set2 (8tools) - These have a blue paper label on natural wood handles that says "Marples Made in Sheffield England". The steel is bright and some are marked (surface printed) with both imperial and metric sizes.

Set3 (8 tools) - These have the brand stamped into both the steel and handle, which is natural wood. The lettering says "Disston USA" with a keystone logo. The letters and logo in the handle are colored red. The steel is bright.

These all have some light surface rust, which should clean up fine, however the rust on the Craftsman tools gives me more a feeling of quality steel (gut feeling, not sure why).

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they have good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can provide is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

You can tell somewhat by the sparks thrown off during sharpening. I
am not a machinist and do not remember the particulars but you can
probably look it up somewhere. Probably post the question in the
metalworking newsgroup would give you quick advice.

--
GW Ross

Between two evils, always pick the one
you never tried before.