Working on a green Bradford Pear blank. Sawed it round. Attached a
faceplate and turned the outside and dovetail socket. Then it
happened. The faceplate was attached with six #10 screws. Three came
out ok (I use an impact driver). The fourth one twisted off at the
neck. The fifth and sixth ones could not be backed out. Ruined an
impact Phillips bit. Finally drilled out the screw heads and cut them
off with a cold chisel. Threw that blank away. I think I will start
waxing the screws.
--
GW Ross

It's not the money I want, it's the stuff.

On 30/05/2015 1:03 PM, G. Ross wrote:
Working on a green Bradford Pear blank. Sawed it round. Attached a
faceplate and turned the outside and dovetail socket. Then it
happened. The faceplate was attached with six #10 screws. Three came
out ok (I use an impact driver). The fourth one twisted off at the
neck. The fifth and sixth ones could not be backed out. Ruined an
impact Phillips bit. Finally drilled out the screw heads and cut them
off with a cold chisel. Threw that blank away. I think I will start
waxing the screws.

Rather than using a faceplate, use a large 2"+ sawtooth bit and drill a
recess for the chuck.
Graham

--

graham wrote:
On 30/05/2015 1:03 PM, G. Ross wrote:
Working on a green Bradford Pear blank. Sawed it round. Attached a
faceplate and turned the outside and dovetail socket. Then it
happened. The faceplate was attached with six #10 screws. Three came
out ok (I use an impact driver). The fourth one twisted off at the
neck. The fifth and sixth ones could not be backed out. Ruined an
impact Phillips bit. Finally drilled out the screw heads and cut them
off with a cold chisel. Threw that blank away. I think I will start
waxing the screws.

Rather than using a faceplate, use a large 2"+ sawtooth bit and drill a
recess for the chuck.
Graham

Thanks. That is an option. However all my chuck bodies have dovetail
jaws on them and I wouldn't trust them in a straight hole. I do have
a set of straight "spigot" jaws, but hate changing out jaws just for a
couple of bowls. These are 15 inch, 50 pound irregular chunks of wet
wood hacked out with a chainsaw.
I think I will (a) drill pilot holes in them like I used to do before
I had an impact driver, and (b) wax the screws so they will be less
likely to stick.

--
GW Ross

It's not the money I want, it's the stuff.

On 31/05/2015 4:09 AM, G. Ross wrote:
graham wrote:
On 30/05/2015 1:03 PM, G. Ross wrote:
Working on a green Bradford Pear blank. Sawed it round. Attached a
faceplate and turned the outside and dovetail socket. Then it
happened. The faceplate was attached with six #10 screws. Three came
out ok (I use an impact driver). The fourth one twisted off at the
neck. The fifth and sixth ones could not be backed out. Ruined an
impact Phillips bit. Finally drilled out the screw heads and cut them
off with a cold chisel. Threw that blank away. I think I will start
waxing the screws.

Rather than using a faceplate, use a large 2"+ sawtooth bit and drill a
recess for the chuck.
Graham

Thanks. That is an option. However all my chuck bodies have dovetail
jaws on them and I wouldn't trust them in a straight hole. I do have a
set of straight "spigot" jaws, but hate changing out jaws just for a
couple of bowls. These are 15 inch, 50 pound irregular chunks of wet
wood hacked out with a chainsaw.
I think I will (a) drill pilot holes in them like I used to do before I
had an impact driver, and (b) wax the screws so they will be less likely
to stick.

I use a Oneway chuck that has ribs instead of dovetails so it's not a
problem. I take it that you support those blocks with the tailstock
until you have it rounded.
I have two salad-bowl sized pieces of ash that I acquired from a
neighbour that I must get around to roughing out before he cuts down
another ash tree. We had a freak snowstorm last September and the damage
to the city's trees was unbelievable.
Graham
Graham

--

Are you pre-drilling for the screw holes? I think the fact that you
need an impact driver tells me something's wrong. A properly
pre-drilled hole should make it easy to install and remove the screw,
without compromising strength (and might be stronger).

I've also started using McFeely's screws (or other "real" screws) where
strength counts, I've broken many a box-store screw, but the McFeely's
screws will destroy a piece of oak (or stall my big hammer drill) before
they break.

(And yes, wax is good. Never use soap on a screw.)

On 31/05/2015 5:43 PM, DJ Delorie wrote:

Are you pre-drilling for the screw holes? I think the fact that you
need an impact driver tells me something's wrong. A properly
pre-drilled hole should make it easy to install and remove the screw,
without compromising strength (and might be stronger).

I've also started using McFeely's screws (or other "real" screws) where
strength counts, I've broken many a box-store screw, but the McFeely's
screws will destroy a piece of oak (or stall my big hammer drill) before
they break.

(And yes, wax is good. Never use soap on a screw.)

I use stainless steel, Robertson head screws when I have to. No problem
with those and I don't pre-drill if it's green wood.
Graham

--

I suggest the coated screws for heavy work. You can buy a small plastic
box of them for not much. They won't start to corrode in the
hole and grab with thousands of bits of steel and Oxides.

Often for Concrete or heavy work, they are strong. Cheap price in the
long run.

And wax is a good lube as well as it melts and fills voids in the
surface of screws.

Martin

On 5/31/2015 6:43 PM, DJ Delorie wrote:

Are you pre-drilling for the screw holes? I think the fact that you
need an impact driver tells me something's wrong. A properly
pre-drilled hole should make it easy to install and remove the screw,
without compromising strength (and might be stronger).

I've also started using McFeely's screws (or other "real" screws) where
strength counts, I've broken many a box-store screw, but the McFeely's
screws will destroy a piece of oak (or stall my big hammer drill) before
they break.

(And yes, wax is good. Never use soap on a screw.)

In article ,
"G. Ross" wrote:

Working on a green Bradford Pear blank. Sawed it round. Attached a
faceplate and turned the outside and dovetail socket. Then it
happened. The faceplate was attached with six #10 screws. Three came
out ok (I use an impact driver). The fourth one twisted off at the
neck. The fifth and sixth ones could not be backed out. Ruined an
impact Phillips bit. Finally drilled out the screw heads and cut them
off with a cold chisel. Threw that blank away. I think I will start
waxing the screws.


HI GW,

I use no. 14 spax screws from McFeely's. I don't pre-drill, and I use a
no.3 square drive bit. I've turned over 200 bowls from 6 - 17 inches,
and never had a problem. I use a 12 volt cordless drill to drive and
remove them. I reuse them until the square drive won't drive them
anymore.

On 01/06/2015 5:10 PM, Dan Kozar wrote:
In article ,
"G. Ross" wrote:

Working on a green Bradford Pear blank. Sawed it round. Attached a
faceplate and turned the outside and dovetail socket. Then it
happened. The faceplate was attached with six #10 screws. Three came
out ok (I use an impact driver). The fourth one twisted off at the
neck. The fifth and sixth ones could not be backed out. Ruined an
impact Phillips bit. Finally drilled out the screw heads and cut them
off with a cold chisel. Threw that blank away. I think I will start
waxing the screws.


HI GW,

I use no. 14 spax screws from McFeely's. I don't pre-drill, and I use a
no.3 square drive bit.

AKA Robertson screws. A Canadian invention.

I've turned over 200 bowls from 6 - 17 inches,
and never had a problem. I use a 12 volt cordless drill to drive and
remove them. I reuse them until the square drive won't drive them
anymore.



--

Dan Kozar wrote:
In article ,
"G. Ross" wrote:

Working on a green Bradford Pear blank. Sawed it round. Attached a
faceplate and turned the outside and dovetail socket. Then it
happened. The faceplate was attached with six #10 screws. Three came
out ok (I use an impact driver). The fourth one twisted off at the
neck. The fifth and sixth ones could not be backed out. Ruined an
impact Phillips bit. Finally drilled out the screw heads and cut them
off with a cold chisel. Threw that blank away. I think I will start
waxing the screws.


HI GW,

I use no. 14 spax screws from McFeely's. I don't pre-drill, and I use a
no.3 square drive bit. I've turned over 200 bowls from 6 - 17 inches,
and never had a problem. I use a 12 volt cordless drill to drive and
remove them. I reuse them until the square drive won't drive them
anymore.

Hello Dan,
According to my log I have finished 1596 bowls from 4-16 inches. I
have about 50 more roughed out and in various stages of drying, and
about 45 green blanks waiting to be roughed out. I usually start with
a faceplate using #10 flat head screws. For the first 10 years I used
a drill driver and pre-drilled the holes. Then I got an impact driver
and found I did not need to pre-drill. Never had a problem until this
time. I think for the next large bradford pear blanks I will pre-drill.

--
GW Ross

Some days, the only good things on TV
are the vase and the clock.

On 2015-06-02 00:46:14 +0000, graham said:

On 01/06/2015 5:10 PM, Dan Kozar wrote:
In article ,
"G. Ross" wrote:

Working on a green Bradford Pear blank. Sawed it round. Attached a
faceplate and turned the outside and dovetail socket. Then it
happened. The faceplate was attached with six #10 screws. Three came
out ok (I use an impact driver). The fourth one twisted off at the
neck. The fifth and sixth ones could not be backed out. Ruined an
impact Phillips bit. Finally drilled out the screw heads and cut them
off with a cold chisel. Threw that blank away. I think I will start
waxing the screws.


HI GW,

I use no. 14 spax screws from McFeely's. I don't pre-drill, and I use a
no.3 square drive bit.

AKA Robertson screws. A Canadian invention.

Yup, interesting how they are getting harder to find. Lately my local
outlets have gone to Torex

On 03/06/2015 8:46 AM, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
On 2015-06-02 00:46:14 +0000, graham said:

On 01/06/2015 5:10 PM, Dan Kozar wrote:
In article ,
"G. Ross" wrote:

Working on a green Bradford Pear blank. Sawed it round. Attached a
faceplate and turned the outside and dovetail socket. Then it
happened. The faceplate was attached with six #10 screws. Three came
out ok (I use an impact driver). The fourth one twisted off at the
neck. The fifth and sixth ones could not be backed out. Ruined an
impact Phillips bit. Finally drilled out the screw heads and cut them
off with a cold chisel. Threw that blank away. I think I will start
waxing the screws.


HI GW,

I use no. 14 spax screws from McFeely's. I don't pre-drill, and I use a
no.3 square drive bit.

AKA Robertson screws. A Canadian invention.

Yup, interesting how they are getting harder to find. Lately my local
outlets have gone to Torex

I have some SS Robertson screws that I use on green wood. As they are
harder than regular screws, they last as the holes don't distort so easily.

I gave some to a carpenter in the UK who used them for "security" jobs
as it was highly unlikely that anyone would have the right driver to tamper.
There is also a house in the UK that was owned by my brother in law that
will be difficult to renovate:-)
Graham

--

On 2015-06-03 15:13:14 +0000, graham said:

On 03/06/2015 8:46 AM, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
On 2015-06-02 00:46:14 +0000, graham said:

On 01/06/2015 5:10 PM, Dan Kozar wrote:
In article ,
"G. Ross" wrote:

Working on a green Bradford Pear blank. Sawed it round. Attached a
faceplate and turned the outside and dovetail socket. Then it
happened. The faceplate was attached with six #10 screws. Three came
out ok (I use an impact driver). The fourth one twisted off at the
neck. The fifth and sixth ones could not be backed out. Ruined an
impact Phillips bit. Finally drilled out the screw heads and cut them
off with a cold chisel. Threw that blank away. I think I will start
waxing the screws.


HI GW,

I use no. 14 spax screws from McFeely's. I don't pre-drill, and I use a
no.3 square drive bit.

AKA Robertson screws. A Canadian invention.

Yup, interesting how they are getting harder to find. Lately my local
outlets have gone to Torex

I have some SS Robertson screws that I use on green wood. As they are
harder than regular screws, they last as the holes don't distort so
easily.

I gave some to a carpenter in the UK who used them for "security" jobs
as it was highly unlikely that anyone would have the right driver to
tamper.
There is also a house in the UK that was owned by my brother in law
that will be difficult to renovate:-)
Graham

That's because they don't have one of these
http://www.harborfreight.com/pc-secu...ase-68457.html

On Saturday, May 30, 2015 at 2:03:36 PM UTC-5, G. Ross wrote:
Working on a green Bradford Pear blank. Sawed it round. Attached a
faceplate and turned the outside and dovetail socket. Then it
happened. The faceplate was attached with six #10 screws. Three came
out ok (I use an impact driver). The fourth one twisted off at the
neck. The fifth and sixth ones could not be backed out. Ruined an
impact Phillips bit. Finally drilled out the screw heads and cut them
off with a cold chisel. Threw that blank away. I think I will start
waxing the screws.
--
GW Ross

It's not the money I want, it's the stuff.



Why didn't you just cut the screws out with a chisel? You were going to remove that section of the blank anyway.