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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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Seasoning timber.
This is a topic I know nothing about.
A friend of mine had a cherry tree chopped down and offered me some pieces of it. The largest is roughly 400mm diameter x 200mm long (far too big for my lathe), there are a couple of pieces 150mm d x 160mm l and some 70mm d x 200mm l. Advice on how to season these properly for turning please. Stuart -- Stuart Winsor |
#2
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Seasoning timber.
Stuart wrote:
This is a topic I know nothing about. A friend of mine had a cherry tree chopped down and offered me some pieces of it. The largest is roughly 400mm diameter x 200mm long (far too big for my lathe), there are a couple of pieces 150mm d x 160mm l and some 70mm d x 200mm l. Advice on how to season these properly for turning please. Stuart It may be too late already, but split the piece by cutting each side of the plinth (very center of the tree) removed as it is the source of splits as the piece is drying. Then paint the exposed end grain with two or three coats of latex paint (assuming you cannot get your hands on Anchorseal). If you are going to turn the cherry, you really want to rough turn it green and leave the wall thickness 10% of the diameter. Then put it in a heavy brown paper bag. or wrap it in a couple layers newspaper, and let it dry for at least six months. Then remount and do the final turning and finish. Deb |
#3
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Seasoning timber.
In article ,
Stuart wrote: This is a topic I know nothing about. A friend of mine had a cherry tree chopped down and offered me some pieces of it. The largest is roughly 400mm diameter x 200mm long (far too big for my lathe), there are a couple of pieces 150mm d x 160mm l and some 70mm d x 200mm l. Advice on how to season these properly for turning please. Stuart Stuart, The largest bowl blank that you will get out of the 400mm x 200mm is 200mm. To get a bowl blank, you split the the log length wise in half, so you will have 2 pieces 400mm wide x 200mm long x 200mm thick.When you cut it in half, you want to cut it through the pith, which is the center of the growth rings. doing so, one piece may be thicker than 200mm, and the other will be less than 200mm. The length, not the diameter, determines the diameter of the bowl. When to cut a 200mm circle out of your 400mm x200mm piece, it should fit fine on your lathe. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Seasoning timber.
In article
, Dan Kozar wrote: Stuart, The largest bowl blank that you will get out of the 400mm x 200mm is 200mm. To get a bowl blank, you split the the log length wise in half, so you will have 2 pieces 400mm wide x 200mm long x 200mm thick.When you cut it in half, you want to cut it through the pith, which is the center of the growth rings. doing so, one piece may be thicker than 200mm, and the other will be less than 200mm. The length, not the diameter, determines the diameter of the bowl. When to cut a 200mm circle out of your 400mm x200mm piece, it should fit fine on your lathe. Thanks for that. At present I have a 7x12 metal-working mini-lathe but I have an 11x27 metal-working lathe on order. This has a Tee-slot cross-slide so the standard top-slide and tool-post can be removed and something more akin to a conventional wood-turning tool rest fitted. I have a 4" wood-turning chuck (Axminster clubman) which I intend to modify to fit. -- Stuart Winsor |
#5
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Seasoning timber.
In article ,
Dr. Deb wrote: It may be too late already, but split the piece by cutting each side of the plinth (very center of the tree) removed as it is the source of splits as the piece is drying. Then paint the exposed end grain with two or three coats of latex paint (assuming you cannot get your hands on Anchorseal). I have often seen mention of "Latex" paint where American woodworkers are involved and came to the conclusion that it must be what we in the UK call "Emulsion" paint. Is anyone able to confirm this? If you are going to turn the cherry, you really want to rough turn it green and leave the wall thickness 10% of the diameter. Then put it in a heavy brown paper bag. or wrap it in a couple layers newspaper, and let it dry for at least six months. Then remount and do the final turning and finish. Noted -- Stuart Winsor |
#6
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Seasoning timber.
On 02/02/2014 01:39 PM, Stuart wrote:
I have often seen mention of "Latex" paint where American woodworkers are involved and came to the conclusion that it must be what we in the UK call "Emulsion" paint. Is anyone able to confirm this? I don't know if it's the same or not, but latex paint is water based and cleans up with soap and warm water. The other common type of paint is "oil paint". If Emulsion is water based, odds are it's equivalent... -- Kevin Miller Juneau, Alaska http://www.alaska.net/~atftb "In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car." - Lawrence Summers |
#7
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Seasoning timber.
On Sunday, February 2, 2014 at 2:13:40 PM UTC, Stuart wrote:
This is a topic I know nothing about. A friend of mine had a cherry tree chopped down and offered me some pieces of it. The largest is roughly 400mm diameter x 200mm long (far too big for my lathe), there are a couple of pieces 150mm d x 160mm l and some 70mm d x 200mm l. Advice on how to season these properly for turning please. Stuart -- Stuart Winsor You dont need to semi cut your "log" at all , brush both ends with molten wax , no fancy end seal is needed.. and store in a cool to cold but not freezing well aired place for 1 year per inch diameter.. so yours is 200mm/8 inches... wait 8 years and it will be perfectly seasoned... I know it sounds harsh to deny you working your wood but turning is a life not a now and then... the more wood you season the more wood will be yours in the future.. as for the pith, as it dries over the years it can be tube plugged and the ending and lasting result will be a mid ring piece of craft and not just a side grain swipe at one of the best fruit woods you can turn. Best wishes .. Foxwood. |
#8
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Seasoning timber.
On Sunday, February 2, 2014 at 2:13:40 PM UTC, Stuart wrote:
This is a topic I know nothing about. A friend of mine had a cherry tree chopped down and offered me some pieces of it. The largest is roughly 400mm diameter x 200mm long (far too big for my lathe), there are a couple of pieces 150mm d x 160mm l and some 70mm d x 200mm l. Advice on how to season these properly for turning please. Stuart -- Stuart Winsor if 400mm diameter , 16-17 inches then bole into 400mm lengths, wax and store for the future. |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Seasoning timber.
In article ,
wrote: You dont need to semi cut your "log" at all , brush both ends with molten wax , no fancy end seal is needed.. and store in a cool to cold but not freezing well aired place for 1 year per inch diameter.. so yours is 200mm/8 inches... wait 8 years and it will be perfectly seasoned... I know it sounds harsh to deny you working your wood but turning is a life not a now and then... the more wood you season the more wood will be yours in the future.. Thanks for the info. It is currently residing in my shed, which is well insulated and has a 300W heater on a thermostat set at 10 deg C. Waiting is not an issue as I have plenty to occupy my time. When I retired almost eight years ago I had a number of things which I intended to do and haven't done a fraction of them. I thought being retired I would have loads of time but it doesn't seem to work that way grin -- Stuart Winsor Tools With A Mission sending tools across the world http://www.twam.co.uk/ |
#10
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Seasoning timber.
On 2015-02-04 09:12:56 +0000, Stuart said:
In article , wrote: You dont need to semi cut your "log" at all , brush both ends with molten wax , no fancy end seal is needed.. and store in a cool to cold but not freezing well aired place for 1 year per inch diameter.. so yours is 200mm/8 inches... wait 8 years and it will be perfectly seasoned... I know it sounds harsh to deny you working your wood but turning is a life not a now and then... the more wood you season the more wood will be yours in the future.. Thanks for the info. It is currently residing in my shed, which is well insulated and has a 300W heater on a thermostat set at 10 deg C. Waiting is not an issue as I have plenty to occupy my time. When I retired almost eight years ago I had a number of things which I intended to do and haven't done a fraction of them. I thought being retired I would have loads of time but it doesn't seem to work that way grin It is safer (as in lower failure rate) to split the log and take the pith out |
#11
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Seasoning timber.
On 02/04/2015 06:27 AM, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
On 2015-02-04 09:12:56 +0000, Stuart said: In article , wrote: You dont need to semi cut your "log" at all , brush both ends with molten wax , no fancy end seal is needed.. and store in a cool to cold but not freezing well aired place for 1 year per inch diameter.. so yours is 200mm/8 inches... wait 8 years and it will be perfectly seasoned... I know it sounds harsh to deny you working your wood but turning is a life not a now and then... the more wood you season the more wood will be yours in the future.. Thanks for the info. It is currently residing in my shed, which is well insulated and has a 300W heater on a thermostat set at 10 deg C. Waiting is not an issue as I have plenty to occupy my time. When I retired almost eight years ago I had a number of things which I intended to do and haven't done a fraction of them. I thought being retired I would have loads of time but it doesn't seem to work that way grin It is safer (as in lower failure rate) to split the log and take the pith out Ditto what Ralph said. When I have larger pieces, I'll typically cut them in half and cut the length to approximately twice the diameter, plus a couple inches (50 - 75 mm) to allow for minor checking. I seal the ends. They'll last much longer that way. For smaller pieces such as you have, I'll seal the ends and leave them until I can get to them. There's usually some checking on the end to cut off but on a 2 or 3 meter log that's no biggie. The best thing to do is to halve the log, then rough out the bowls as soon as possible leaving the walls overly thick; about 10% of the diameter is the usual recommendation. I seal the end grain on them, put them in a paper bag, then set them aside for 3 - 6 months. After that, they will have warped but will be a equilibrium with their environment. At that point you can finish turn them. No need to wait for years. If you cut away 80% of the wood during rough turning, you've turned away 80% of the water as well! Plus, the end grain is only a dozen or so mm thick so the water can leave the wood much more rapidly. HTH... ....Kevin -- Kevin Miller Juneau, Alaska http://www.alaska.net/~atftb "In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car." - Lawrence Summers |
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