avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
I'm trying to solve a problem coming from the fact that most of my bowls
are turned from sopping wet wood. I've not had too much problem with cracking but my finished bowls are warping considerably. As an experiment I've started few new bowls using very wet wood and then buried them in paper bags filled with fresh shavings inorder to slow the drying process. Using this process I have placed 5 bowls in bags over the past month and only found cracking in one. However that one had a rather large tenon and a bottom much thicker than the sides. None of the others appear to have cracking in them. One question is how long to leave the rough turned bowl in the bag. In denver the humidity runs fairly low but I don't know if that should be a factor or not. I've heard anything from a couple weeks to many months. Another question is how thick to leave the rough turned bowl. This should depend on how much warp I might get as the bowl is drying. Most solutions to the problem of cracking and warping seem to mainly be for cracking. One solution would be to wait until the logs/blanks are dry before turning them but frankly I don't have enough room to store large logs for years and years. I ran upon a couple unique solutions for the warping problem and I'm wondering if anyone here has tried them. Some ausi turners mentioned putting a stick into the roughed out bowl against the grain ends to prevent warp from closing in from that direction. Another post suggested circles cut from MDF. Any thoughts? |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
The rule of thumb for thickness is 10% of the diameter. This gives room
to re-turn after the wood warps during drying. The rule can be fudged if you're familiar with how much the particular wood is likely to warp. I wait about 6 months on a 10 inch bowl with 1 inch wall thickness. I don't pack the paper bag with shavings unless I'm trying to encourage a bit more spalting during the drying process. Some wait longer, but if it "feels" dry, it's probably ready. Again, experience will guide you after some time. I'd suggest you start with 6 months time, then experiment until you have developed your own "feel"" for the wood by species in your climate. I've never heard of using a stick. It may work well on some woods, bu will likely encourage others to split. The wood moves during drying to relieve internal stresses that develop. These stresses are what causes splitting. If you keep the wood from moving, the stresses are not relieved, and it seems splitting is more likely. The purpose of bagging is to slow drying, allowing less difference in moisture content between the outside and inside of the wood. This also reduces stresses by keeping the shrinkage rate more uniform. Packing the wood in shavings further slows drying, as more moisture must move through the paper barrier. Jim william kossack wrote: I'm trying to solve a problem coming from the fact that most of my bowls are turned from sopping wet wood. I've not had too much problem with cracking but my finished bowls are warping considerably. As an experiment I've started few new bowls using very wet wood and then buried them in paper bags filled with fresh shavings inorder to slow the drying process. Using this process I have placed 5 bowls in bags over the past month and only found cracking in one. However that one had a rather large tenon and a bottom much thicker than the sides. None of the others appear to have cracking in them. One question is how long to leave the rough turned bowl in the bag. In denver the humidity runs fairly low but I don't know if that should be a factor or not. I've heard anything from a couple weeks to many months. Another question is how thick to leave the rough turned bowl. This should depend on how much warp I might get as the bowl is drying. Most solutions to the problem of cracking and warping seem to mainly be for cracking. One solution would be to wait until the logs/blanks are dry before turning them but frankly I don't have enough room to store large logs for years and years. I ran upon a couple unique solutions for the warping problem and I'm wondering if anyone here has tried them. Some ausi turners mentioned putting a stick into the roughed out bowl against the grain ends to prevent warp from closing in from that direction. Another post suggested circles cut from MDF. Any thoughts? |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
where are you located? The reason I ask is that if relative humidity is
a factor then it can make a difference where you are located. For example, I've lived in places like south texas where the humidity is 90% much of the year. In Denver the humidity is 36% this morning and often in the sumer it is lower. One of my first bowls (redwood burl) was sopping wet when I turned it. I left it out over night before finishing. By morning significant splits had developed. I therefore use caution about leaving anything that is not stone dry out. It may be that after an initial period of bag drying I can take stuff out but I don't know. The only experienced local turner I've been able to ask the question about drying uses a kiln to dry his stuff but then again he sells his stuff for $100s PS In the sumer in south texas sweat drips off of you makes your cloths soaking wet and forms a puddle at your feet. In the sumer in Denver it never reaches the ground and you have to be working hard to know your sweating. Therefore my concern about slowing the drying a bit. Jim Swank wrote: The rule of thumb for thickness is 10% of the diameter. This gives room to re-turn after the wood warps during drying. The rule can be fudged if you're familiar with how much the particular wood is likely to warp. I wait about 6 months on a 10 inch bowl with 1 inch wall thickness. I don't pack the paper bag with shavings unless I'm trying to encourage a bit more spalting during the drying process. Some wait longer, but if it "feels" dry, it's probably ready. Again, experience will guide you after some time. I'd suggest you start with 6 months time, then experiment until you have developed your own "feel"" for the wood by species in your climate. I've never heard of using a stick. It may work well on some woods, bu will likely encourage others to split. The wood moves during drying to relieve internal stresses that develop. These stresses are what causes splitting. If you keep the wood from moving, the stresses are not relieved, and it seems splitting is more likely. The purpose of bagging is to slow drying, allowing less difference in moisture content between the outside and inside of the wood. This also reduces stresses by keeping the shrinkage rate more uniform. Packing the wood in shavings further slows drying, as more moisture must move through the paper barrier. Jim |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
You could try Eli Avisera's way. When he turns a wet bowl or hollow
form, he drills an 8mm hole through the base having taken a 10mm 'plug' of the same wood from scrap. When the bowl is dry, drill out the distorted 8mm hole with a 10mm drill and inset and glue the plug. It really does cut down a lot of the distortion. Eli's website is at http://avi-biran.co.il/avisera/ He is a brilliant turner from Israel and no, he is not my uncle nor does he pay me to say how good he is. Kindest regards Paul in the UK On Wed, 05 May 2004 03:42:14 GMT, william kossack wrote: I'm trying to solve a problem coming from the fact that most of my bowls are turned from sopping wet wood. I've not had too much problem with cracking but my finished bowls are warping considerably. As an experiment I've started few new bowls using very wet wood and then buried them in paper bags filled with fresh shavings inorder to slow the drying process. Using this process I have placed 5 bowls in bags over the past month and only found cracking in one. However that one had a rather large tenon and a bottom much thicker than the sides. None of the others appear to have cracking in them. One question is how long to leave the rough turned bowl in the bag. In denver the humidity runs fairly low but I don't know if that should be a factor or not. I've heard anything from a couple weeks to many months. Another question is how thick to leave the rough turned bowl. This should depend on how much warp I might get as the bowl is drying. Most solutions to the problem of cracking and warping seem to mainly be for cracking. One solution would be to wait until the logs/blanks are dry before turning them but frankly I don't have enough room to store large logs for years and years. I ran upon a couple unique solutions for the warping problem and I'm wondering if anyone here has tried them. Some ausi turners mentioned putting a stick into the roughed out bowl against the grain ends to prevent warp from closing in from that direction. Another post suggested circles cut from MDF. Any thoughts? |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
Bill
I like to turn stuff that feels as if I stand in the shower when it goes round, similar to your description of sopping wet. There are some weird and wonderful ways of preventing warping but the world wide tried and turn method is to wet turn to a thickness of 10% of the diameter, seal the end grain and let dry for about 3 months to a year so the warping is done and finish turning can be performed on a dry blank. See my web site under http://aroundthewoods.com/roughing.shtml for some more info. -- God bless and safe turning Darrell Feltmate Truro, NS, Canada http://www.aroundthewoods.com |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
Well, duh! Have you deliberately ignored all talk about the LDD solution to
your problem? Leif "william kossack" wrote in message news:poZlc.34324$kh4.1693690@attbi_s52... I'm trying to solve a problem coming from the fact that most of my bowls are turned from sopping wet wood. I've not had too much problem with cracking but my finished bowls are warping considerably. As an experiment I've started few new bowls using very wet wood and then buried them in paper bags filled with fresh shavings inorder to slow the drying process. Using this process I have placed 5 bowls in bags over the past month and only found cracking in one. However that one had a rather large tenon and a bottom much thicker than the sides. None of the others appear to have cracking in them. One question is how long to leave the rough turned bowl in the bag. In denver the humidity runs fairly low but I don't know if that should be a factor or not. I've heard anything from a couple weeks to many months. Another question is how thick to leave the rough turned bowl. This should depend on how much warp I might get as the bowl is drying. Most solutions to the problem of cracking and warping seem to mainly be for cracking. One solution would be to wait until the logs/blanks are dry before turning them but frankly I don't have enough room to store large logs for years and years. I ran upon a couple unique solutions for the warping problem and I'm wondering if anyone here has tried them. Some ausi turners mentioned putting a stick into the roughed out bowl against the grain ends to prevent warp from closing in from that direction. Another post suggested circles cut from MDF. Any thoughts? |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
Hi William,
My thoughts while reading your thread: 1. Is warp just an incipient crack? 2. Are shakes, warps, cracks, splits, and splinterings basically different or are they stops along a timber's natural drying cycle that we consider to have gone wrong? Mother nature may not think it went wrong. :) 3. You can't generalize about wood any more than about people. Too much diversity, even in the same log or even in its parts. Where grown, time of year harvested, how sawn, where being dried are just a few of the variables that plague us.. 4. Actually, it's the diversity that we prize. 5, Obviously there is no best way to dry wood or we would all be using it. The unique solutions that you mention are just as likely to work as many others. You asked for any thoughts. You didn't stipulate that they had to be politically or botanically correct... or dish washer safe! Arch Fortiter, |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
I'm in Northwest Arkansas, probably warmer and more humid than your
area. Still the difference is likely less than between a garage and a basement. That's why I say to pick a rule of thumb to start with, then adjust as your experiences indicate. Jim william kossack wrote: where are you located? The reason I ask is that if relative humidity is a factor then it can make a difference where you are located. For example, I've lived in places like south texas where the humidity is 90% much of the year. In Denver the humidity is 36% this morning and often in the sumer it is lower. One of my first bowls (redwood burl) was sopping wet when I turned it. I left it out over night before finishing. By morning significant splits had developed. I therefore use caution about leaving anything that is not stone dry out. It may be that after an initial period of bag drying I can take stuff out but I don't know. The only experienced local turner I've been able to ask the question about drying uses a kiln to dry his stuff but then again he sells his stuff for $100s PS In the sumer in south texas sweat drips off of you makes your cloths soaking wet and forms a puddle at your feet. In the sumer in Denver it never reaches the ground and you have to be working hard to know your sweating. Therefore my concern about slowing the drying a bit. Jim Swank wrote: The rule of thumb for thickness is 10% of the diameter. This gives room to re-turn after the wood warps during drying. The rule can be fudged if you're familiar with how much the particular wood is likely to warp. I wait about 6 months on a 10 inch bowl with 1 inch wall thickness. I don't pack the paper bag with shavings unless I'm trying to encourage a bit more spalting during the drying process. Some wait longer, but if it "feels" dry, it's probably ready. Again, experience will guide you after some time. I'd suggest you start with 6 months time, then experiment until you have developed your own "feel"" for the wood by species in your climate. I've never heard of using a stick. It may work well on some woods, bu will likely encourage others to split. The wood moves during drying to relieve internal stresses that develop. These stresses are what causes splitting. If you keep the wood from moving, the stresses are not relieved, and it seems splitting is more likely. The purpose of bagging is to slow drying, allowing less difference in moisture content between the outside and inside of the wood. This also reduces stresses by keeping the shrinkage rate more uniform. Packing the wood in shavings further slows drying, as more moisture must move through the paper barrier. Jim |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
I was waiting for the high priest of LDD to weigh in..
Jim Leif Thorvaldson wrote: Well, duh! Have you deliberately ignored all talk about the LDD solution to your problem? Leif "william kossack" wrote in message news:poZlc.34324$kh4.1693690@attbi_s52... I'm trying to solve a problem coming from the fact that most of my bowls are turned from sopping wet wood. I've not had too much problem with cracking but my finished bowls are warping considerably. As an experiment I've started few new bowls using very wet wood and then buried them in paper bags filled with fresh shavings inorder to slow the drying process. Using this process I have placed 5 bowls in bags over the past month and only found cracking in one. However that one had a rather large tenon and a bottom much thicker than the sides. None of the others appear to have cracking in them. One question is how long to leave the rough turned bowl in the bag. In denver the humidity runs fairly low but I don't know if that should be a factor or not. I've heard anything from a couple weeks to many months. Another question is how thick to leave the rough turned bowl. This should depend on how much warp I might get as the bowl is drying. Most solutions to the problem of cracking and warping seem to mainly be for cracking. One solution would be to wait until the logs/blanks are dry before turning them but frankly I don't have enough room to store large logs for years and years. I ran upon a couple unique solutions for the warping problem and I'm wondering if anyone here has tried them. Some ausi turners mentioned putting a stick into the roughed out bowl against the grain ends to prevent warp from closing in from that direction. Another post suggested circles cut from MDF. Any thoughts? |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
I had thought about LDD but only remembered it for avoiding cracking not
warp which for many seemed to be a seconary problem. By your duh! you say it will solve problems of warp? Leif Thorvaldson wrote: Well, duh! Have you deliberately ignored all talk about the LDD solution to your problem? Leif "william kossack" wrote in message news:poZlc.34324$kh4.1693690@attbi_s52... I'm trying to solve a problem coming from the fact that most of my bowls are turned from sopping wet wood. I've not had too much problem with cracking but my finished bowls are warping considerably. As an experiment I've started few new bowls using very wet wood and then buried them in paper bags filled with fresh shavings inorder to slow the drying process. Using this process I have placed 5 bowls in bags over the past month and only found cracking in one. However that one had a rather large tenon and a bottom much thicker than the sides. None of the others appear to have cracking in them. One question is how long to leave the rough turned bowl in the bag. In denver the humidity runs fairly low but I don't know if that should be a factor or not. I've heard anything from a couple weeks to many months. Another question is how thick to leave the rough turned bowl. This should depend on how much warp I might get as the bowl is drying. Most solutions to the problem of cracking and warping seem to mainly be for cracking. One solution would be to wait until the logs/blanks are dry before turning them but frankly I don't have enough room to store large logs for years and years. I ran upon a couple unique solutions for the warping problem and I'm wondering if anyone here has tried them. Some ausi turners mentioned putting a stick into the roughed out bowl against the grain ends to prevent warp from closing in from that direction. Another post suggested circles cut from MDF. Any thoughts? |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
I am just mortified that this group of answerers didn't even consider
suggesting "The Way" to this suffering turner who must deal with the fickleness of green wood. Buy ya books, buy ya books and all ya do is eat the pictures! *G* Leif "Jim Swank" wrote in message ... I was waiting for the high priest of LDD to weigh in.. Jim Leif Thorvaldson wrote: Well, duh! Have you deliberately ignored all talk about the LDD solution to your problem? Leif "william kossack" wrote in message news:poZlc.34324$kh4.1693690@attbi_s52... I'm trying to solve a problem coming from the fact that most of my bowls are turned from sopping wet wood. I've not had too much problem with cracking but my finished bowls are warping considerably. As an experiment I've started few new bowls using very wet wood and then buried them in paper bags filled with fresh shavings inorder to slow the drying process. Using this process I have placed 5 bowls in bags over the past month and only found cracking in one. However that one had a rather large tenon and a bottom much thicker than the sides. None of the others appear to have cracking in them. One question is how long to leave the rough turned bowl in the bag. In denver the humidity runs fairly low but I don't know if that should be a factor or not. I've heard anything from a couple weeks to many months. Another question is how thick to leave the rough turned bowl. This should depend on how much warp I might get as the bowl is drying. Most solutions to the problem of cracking and warping seem to mainly be for cracking. One solution would be to wait until the logs/blanks are dry before turning them but frankly I don't have enough room to store large logs for years and years. I ran upon a couple unique solutions for the warping problem and I'm wondering if anyone here has tried them. Some ausi turners mentioned putting a stick into the roughed out bowl against the grain ends to prevent warp from closing in from that direction. Another post suggested circles cut from MDF. Any thoughts? |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
I was looking for generalities. My current batch of free wood is some
siberian elm and some hackberry. I also have some aspen and russian olive in small diameters. This saturday I'm going searching for more local free wood. Its all a process of learning while dealing with several family members that are expecting salad bowl sets for christmas. Arggggg Arch wrote: Hi William, My thoughts while reading your thread: 1. Is warp just an incipient crack? 2. Are shakes, warps, cracks, splits, and splinterings basically different or are they stops along a timber's natural drying cycle that we consider to have gone wrong? Mother nature may not think it went wrong. :) 3. You can't generalize about wood any more than about people. Too much diversity, even in the same log or even in its parts. Where grown, time of year harvested, how sawn, where being dried are just a few of the variables that plague us.. 4. Actually, it's the diversity that we prize. 5, Obviously there is no best way to dry wood or we would all be using it. The unique solutions that you mention are just as likely to work as many others. You asked for any thoughts. You didn't stipulate that they had to be politically or botanically correct... or dish washer safe! Arch Fortiter, |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
"william kossack" wrote in message news:poZlc.34324$kh4.1693690@attbi_s52... I'm trying to solve a problem coming from the fact that most of my bowls are turned from sopping wet wood. I've not had too much problem with cracking but my finished bowls are warping considerably. As an experiment I've started few new bowls using very wet wood and then buried them in paper bags filled with fresh shavings inorder to slow the drying process. Using this process I have placed 5 bowls in bags over the past month and only found cracking in one. However that one had a rather large tenon and a bottom much thicker than the sides. None of the others appear to have cracking in them. One question is how long to leave the rough turned bowl in the bag. In denver the humidity runs fairly low but I don't know if that should be a factor or not. I've heard anything from a couple weeks to many months. Another question is how thick to leave the rough turned bowl. This should depend on how much warp I might get as the bowl is drying. Most solutions to the problem of cracking and warping seem to mainly be for cracking. One solution would be to wait until the logs/blanks are dry before turning them but frankly I don't have enough room to store large logs for years and years. I ran upon a couple unique solutions for the warping problem and I'm wondering if anyone here has tried them. Some ausi turners mentioned putting a stick into the roughed out bowl against the grain ends to prevent warp from closing in from that direction. Another post suggested circles cut from MDF. Any thoughts? ============================================= William, 2 or 3 things to look at. 1. Wall thicknes 1/10 of Bowl diameter is one "standard"; turn to final shape when dry. 2. Dryness can be determined with a weight check taken as it dries. When the weight stabilizes, it's reached equilibrium for you location. 3. Microwaving is also touted by some as a quick dry solution. Check RCW archives for MANY details. 4. Turn to final shape while wet, let it warp and call it a "feature" Ken Moon Webberville, TX |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
Nobody has mentioned the microwave. I hesitate to because I'm such a
newbie my ideas change from day to day. But I have been zapping almost all of my bowls and vessels and all are turned very green. If they are turned to a uniform thickness and fairly thin (1/4" or less) then I get very little warping or cracking. The only bad cracking I've had is when I turned end grain, with the pith in, and left the base thick. I guess that's an invitation for problems no matter what you do. If you want a perfect bowl, turn to about 1/2", zap, then re-turn. I've found that anything much thicker than 1/2'' just doesn't get dry in the middle no matter how much you zap. I use O'Donnel's method--4 min. at 40%, wait to cool, then repeat. At 1/8 to 1/4 inch it takes 4-6 cycles. 1/2 takes a whole bunch of cycles. Earl |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
I have privately emailed Mr. Kossack "The Treatise," so he should shortly be
on the path of rectitude! *G* Leif "william kossack" wrote in message news:v0imc.29848$TD4.4554300@attbi_s01... I had thought about LDD but only remembered it for avoiding cracking not warp which for many seemed to be a seconary problem. By your duh! you say it will solve problems of warp? Leif Thorvaldson wrote: Well, duh! Have you deliberately ignored all talk about the LDD solution to your problem? Leif "william kossack" wrote in message news:poZlc.34324$kh4.1693690@attbi_s52... I'm trying to solve a problem coming from the fact that most of my bowls are turned from sopping wet wood. I've not had too much problem with cracking but my finished bowls are warping considerably. As an experiment I've started few new bowls using very wet wood and then buried them in paper bags filled with fresh shavings inorder to slow the drying process. Using this process I have placed 5 bowls in bags over the past month and only found cracking in one. However that one had a rather large tenon and a bottom much thicker than the sides. None of the others appear to have cracking in them. One question is how long to leave the rough turned bowl in the bag. In denver the humidity runs fairly low but I don't know if that should be a factor or not. I've heard anything from a couple weeks to many months. Another question is how thick to leave the rough turned bowl. This should depend on how much warp I might get as the bowl is drying. Most solutions to the problem of cracking and warping seem to mainly be for cracking. One solution would be to wait until the logs/blanks are dry before turning them but frankly I don't have enough room to store large logs for years and years. I ran upon a couple unique solutions for the warping problem and I'm wondering if anyone here has tried them. Some ausi turners mentioned putting a stick into the roughed out bowl against the grain ends to prevent warp from closing in from that direction. Another post suggested circles cut from MDF. Any thoughts? |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
Hackberry and the elm I have obtained locally both move a lot during the
drying process. Both woods spalt readily in this arrea, and become much more attractive in doing so. While I wouldn't particularly suggest spalted wood for a salad bowl, you might set a few pieces aside. I don't have aspen or russian olive available, but i've seen some nice things turned from russian olive on the net. Jim william kossack wrote: I was looking for generalities. My current batch of free wood is some siberian elm and some hackberry. I also have some aspen and russian olive in small diameters. This saturday I'm going searching for more local free wood. Its all a process of learning while dealing with several family members that are expecting salad bowl sets for christmas. Arggggg Arch wrote: Hi William, My thoughts while reading your thread: 1. Is warp just an incipient crack? 2. Are shakes, warps, cracks, splits, and splinterings basically different or are they stops along a timber's natural drying cycle that we consider to have gone wrong? Mother nature may not think it went wrong. :) 3. You can't generalize about wood any more than about people. Too much diversity, even in the same log or even in its parts. Where grown, time of year harvested, how sawn, where being dried are just a few of the variables that plague us.. 4. Actually, it's the diversity that we prize. 5, Obviously there is no best way to dry wood or we would all be using it. The unique solutions that you mention are just as likely to work as many others. You asked for any thoughts. You didn't stipulate that they had to be politically or botanically correct... or dish washer safe! Arch Fortiter, |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
interesting but then I would have to clean out the food spatters from
when my teenagers nuk stuff uncovered;-) dos the microwave pick up any smells from the wood? Earl wrote: Nobody has mentioned the microwave. I hesitate to because I'm such a newbie my ideas change from day to day. But I have been zapping almost all of my bowls and vessels and all are turned very green. If they are turned to a uniform thickness and fairly thin (1/4" or less) then I get very little warping or cracking. The only bad cracking I've had is when I turned end grain, with the pith in, and left the base thick. I guess that's an invitation for problems no matter what you do. If you want a perfect bowl, turn to about 1/2", zap, then re-turn. I've found that anything much thicker than 1/2'' just doesn't get dry in the middle no matter how much you zap. I use O'Donnel's method--4 min. at 40%, wait to cool, then repeat. At 1/8 to 1/4 inch it takes 4-6 cycles. 1/2 takes a whole bunch of cycles. Earl |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
I'm blessed with a basement, so 3/4-1" thick on a 9-12" piece is pretty much
the way I go. I spin the shape up to throw as much water as possible, then set it to dry in open air until I no longer see wet on the surface. This to keep from mildew in woods prone to it. Only then would I coat, If I coated any more, which I don't because it seemed to grow mildew,and no change in shrink, therefore in split. I also tried the cross-grain brace, end grain brace,and circles. Every one promoted splitting, in my opinion. Never lost so many roughs. Back to my original method,which keeps them low in the basement for a couple-three weeks,then on to the shelf until I turn again. I have tented them in newsprint, worked fine, and bags the same, though you really need to change the paper or bag a couple times early on or get mildew problems. I hate to fuss,so the present system is what I use. If you're in a _really_ dry climate, you might consider a big box with modest venting where you can set a batch. Wet below, dry above, move as required, and that is a reasonable substitute for a basement at my house. When they start to deform, they can be moved up, or taken from under cover, as they have decided to relieve tension by gentle rather than catastrophic movement. "william kossack" wrote in message news:poZlc.34324$kh4.1693690@attbi_s52... I'm trying to solve a problem coming from the fact that most of my bowls are turned from sopping wet wood. SNIP I ran upon a couple unique solutions for the warping problem and I'm wondering if anyone here has tried them. Some ausi turners mentioned putting a stick into the roughed out bowl against the grain ends to prevent warp from closing in from that direction. Another post suggested circles cut from MDF. Any thoughts? |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
thanks
denver many times gets down to 10-20 percent humidity in the summer and really also in the winter so mold is not really a problem. I have several aquariums in the house and even the ones in the basement go down by an inch and a half in a week from evaporation (the large 65 gallon aquarium can go down by a couple inches) George wrote: I'm blessed with a basement, so 3/4-1" thick on a 9-12" piece is pretty much the way I go. I spin the shape up to throw as much water as possible, then set it to dry in open air until I no longer see wet on the surface. This to keep from mildew in woods prone to it. Only then would I coat, If I coated any more, which I don't because it seemed to grow mildew,and no change in shrink, therefore in split. I also tried the cross-grain brace, end grain brace,and circles. Every one promoted splitting, in my opinion. Never lost so many roughs. Back to my original method,which keeps them low in the basement for a couple-three weeks,then on to the shelf until I turn again. I have tented them in newsprint, worked fine, and bags the same, though you really need to change the paper or bag a couple times early on or get mildew problems. I hate to fuss,so the present system is what I use. If you're in a _really_ dry climate, you might consider a big box with modest venting where you can set a batch. Wet below, dry above, move as required, and that is a reasonable substitute for a basement at my house. When they start to deform, they can be moved up, or taken from under cover, as they have decided to relieve tension by gentle rather than catastrophic movement. "william kossack" wrote in message news:poZlc.34324$kh4.1693690@attbi_s52... I'm trying to solve a problem coming from the fact that most of my bowls are turned from sopping wet wood. SNIP I ran upon a couple unique solutions for the warping problem and I'm wondering if anyone here has tried them. Some ausi turners mentioned putting a stick into the roughed out bowl against the grain ends to prevent warp from closing in from that direction. Another post suggested circles cut from MDF. Any thoughts? |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
That's us in winter. Dewpoints in negative and house at 70!
"william kossack" wrote in message news:Lermc.40271$Ik.2658551@attbi_s53... thanks denver many times gets down to 10-20 percent humidity in the summer and really also in the winter so mold is not really a problem. |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
"Chuck" wrote in message ... On Thu, 06 May 2004 13:08:49 GMT, william kossack wrote: interesting but then I would have to clean out the food spatters from when my teenagers nuk stuff uncovered;-) dos the microwave pick up any smells from the wood? I've dried elm and apple in mine with no problems. Just leave the door open when you're done, and the steam and smell will dissipate. ===="And don't let it hit you in the butt on the way out", sez his wife as she "dissipates" him! *G* Leif |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
I've dried elm and apple in mine with no problems. Just leave the
door open when you're done, and the steam and smell will dissipate. ===="And don't let it hit you in the butt on the way out", sez his wife as she "dissipates" him! *G* Just clean the inside of the microwave with LDD! It works for everything and anything. |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
I went and checked out a few pawn shops, and sure enough, I picked up a
"large" microwave, and I beat the dealer down to $20 bucks, to boot. Now my shop, er, studio that is, has it's own dedicated micro-wave. -- James Barley www.members.shaw.ca/jbarley ----return address not valid I can be contacted via my web link. "Chuck" wrote in message ... On Thu, 06 May 2004 13:08:49 GMT, william kossack wrote: interesting but then I would have to clean out the food spatters from when my teenagers nuk stuff uncovered;-) dos the microwave pick up any smells from the wood? I've dried elm and apple in mine with no problems. Just leave the door open when you're done, and the steam and smell will dissipate. -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
On Thu, 06 May 2004 03:18:54 GMT, william kossack
wrote: Its all a process of learning while dealing with several family members that are expecting salad bowl sets for christmas. Arggggg Now is the time to introduce your family to the pleasures of collecting dollhouse miniatures in 1:12 scale! -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
On Thu, 06 May 2004 13:08:49 GMT, william kossack
wrote: interesting but then I would have to clean out the food spatters from when my teenagers nuk stuff uncovered;-) dos the microwave pick up any smells from the wood? I've dried elm and apple in mine with no problems. Just leave the door open when you're done, and the steam and smell will dissipate. -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
I tried it as a joke. I grabbed a piece cut off a redheart blank and
fitted it to a set of smaller jaws and turned a bowl about 1 inch across and 1 inch deep. It was perfect. Unfortunately one of the dogs thought it was a treat left on the breakfast table and chewed it to pieces the next day. I'm now saving all my larger cutoffs. Its a shame that April 1st has already passed this year. Chuck wrote: Now is the time to introduce your family to the pleasures of collecting dollhouse miniatures in 1:12 scale! -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
today I checked a couple of the syberian elm pieces. No cracks.
The larger natural edge piece about 9 inches across had about 1/4-1/8th of an inch of warp. It had been in the paper bag for maybe a month. I took it out and coated the outside with sealer to see what will happen. One local turner said he coats the entire piece with sealer and waits 6 months. I'll have to price soap also to run my own LDD experiment. As for microwave I'll have to find a time when nobody will be home Tomorrow morning I'm heading back to the tree service company where I got the elm to see if they have anything. Hopefully they have not spit everything for firewood I'm taking the first bowl from the elm to give to them. Its all sanded and polished and looks great.Hopefully it will help establish a connection for the future. Maybe I can find something besides syberian elm. George wrote: That's us in winter. Dewpoints in negative and house at 70! "william kossack" wrote in message news:Lermc.40271$Ik.2658551@attbi_s53... thanks denver many times gets down to 10-20 percent humidity in the summer and really also in the winter so mold is not really a problem. |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
"James Barley" wrote in message news:B2Umc.407136$Ig.142748@pd7tw2no...
I went and checked out a few pawn shops, and sure enough, I picked up a "large" microwave, and I beat the dealer down to $20 bucks, to boot. Now my shop, er, studio that is, has it's own dedicated micro-wave. Please let us know how it works. As I said, it works great for me, but I don't read about many people using the microwave technique. Earl |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
Earl wrote:
"James Barley" wrote in message news:B2Umc.407136$Ig.142748@pd7tw2no... I went and checked out a few pawn shops, and sure enough, I picked up a "large" microwave, and I beat the dealer down to $20 bucks, to boot. Now my shop, er, studio that is, has it's own dedicated micro-wave. Please let us know how it works. As I said, it works great for me, but I don't read about many people using the microwave technique. Earl Earl, I guess I should have mentioned that I purchased this microwave oven several years ago. I for what I use it for it works fine. My method of use is quite simple, I use it to heat up freshly turned green-wet rough outs, this drives a lot of water to the surface right now, and I feel it gives the "bound water" cells in the piece a bad time also. Secondly, and my real reason for this initial heat treatment, is to neutralize some of the mold spores and cut down on almost all of the mold-mildew problems one can get from green turnings. Regards James Barley www.members.shaw.ca/jbarley |
avoiding warp in wet turned bowls
In article poZlc.34324$kh4.1693690@attbi_s52,
william kossack wrote: In denver the humidity runs fairly low but I don't know if that should be a factor or not. I just watched a Trent Bosch video (Decorative Utility Bowls) - he's from Ft. Collins, CO and addresses the various drying methods in this video - I don't recall if he goes into much detail in his other video. It appears he uses a homemade drying kiln with low heat and a dehumidifier. He talks about many other methods and you might get an idea of how to better work within your environment from his experiences. |
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