I've done several bowls lately using lighter wood and it has gotten me
to thinking about the beall buffing system

One bowl was from a small piece of hackberry from a tree that died where
I work. I managed to get a couple logs
from the tree. The bowl turned out nice in general with some
interesting worm holes but a big problem was caused by the color of the
Tripoli used in the first step. I noticed that the Tripoli got into the
worm holes and into small pores in the wood. I had a dickens of a time
cleaning it out and even then some of the color remained behind.

Another bowl was from a piece of aspen and I had similar problems with
the color of the Tripoli bar.

There are two solutions as I can see. Either I should apply some other
finish first to fill the voids or find a substitute for the Tripoli that
is a lighter color.

I just don't bother with the tripoli if I think the color will cause
problems.
Billh

"william kossack" wrote in message
news:CVo_b.44875$4o.61731@attbi_s52...
I've done several bowls lately using lighter wood and it has gotten me
to thinking about the beall buffing system

One bowl was from a small piece of hackberry from a tree that died where
I work. I managed to get a couple logs
from the tree. The bowl turned out nice in general with some
interesting worm holes but a big problem was caused by the color of the
Tripoli used in the first step. I noticed that the Tripoli got into the
worm holes and into small pores in the wood. I had a dickens of a time
cleaning it out and even then some of the color remained behind.

Another bowl was from a piece of aspen and I had similar problems with
the color of the Tripoli bar.

There are two solutions as I can see. Either I should apply some other
finish first to fill the voids or find a substitute for the Tripoli that
is a lighter color.

Another option is to simply sand to a higher grit and skip the Tripoli
altogether.

- Andrew

There are two solutions as I can see. Either I should apply some other
finish first to fill the voids or find a substitute for the Tripoli that
is a lighter color.

I'm sanding up to 240 now but the wood has been wet and I wonder about
the effectiveness of sanding
with such a fine grit on wet wood.

AHilton wrote:

Another option is to simply sand to a higher grit and skip the Tripoli
altogether.

- Andrew



There are two solutions as I can see. Either I should apply some other
finish first to fill the voids or find a substitute for the Tripoli that
is a lighter color.

I would think by "higher grit" Andrew is suggesting grits above 400, such as
600-1000.
200-240 grit is where a lot of turners start out at.
Another point worth mentioning is, I don't think the Beal buffing system was
ever meant to be used as a substitute for good sanding technique.
Sanding wet wood can be aided by surface drying the piece, such as with a
"hair dryer".

--
James Barley
www.members.shaw.ca/jbarley
----return address not valid
I can be contacted via my web link.


"william kossack" wrote in message
news:4lq_b.43816$Xp.197902@attbi_s54...
I'm sanding up to 240 now but the wood has been wet and I wonder about
the effectiveness of sanding
with such a fine grit on wet wood.

AHilton wrote:

Another option is to simply sand to a higher grit and skip the Tripoli
altogether.

- Andrew



There are two solutions as I can see. Either I should apply some other
finish first to fill the voids or find a substitute for the Tripoli that
is a lighter color.

"James Barley" writes:
Another point worth mentioning is, I don't think the Beal buffing
system was ever meant to be used as a substitute for good sanding
technique.

I usually sand to 600 or so before buffing, even with the tripoli
wheel. 400 if I'm feeling lazy ;-) Exception: I stop at 400 on light
woods because my finer papers are silicon carbide, which sometimes
leaves black specs in the wood (even after blowing it off with an air
compressor).

At some grit, though, sanding raw wood becomes pointless as the grit
is finer than the structure of the wood. To get a smoother surface,
you have to apply a film finish and sand that instead.

BINGO!

Personally, I don't think the appearance of the piece is improved by
stuffing sanding residue into the pores, either. Polish the finish, not the
wood. You lose chatoyance by doing else.

In my experience domestics reach their end point ~320/400. Anything finer
is for leveling the finish at my house.

"DJ Delorie" wrote in message
...

At some grit, though, sanding raw wood becomes pointless as the grit
is finer than the structure of the wood. To get a smoother surface,
you have to apply a film finish and sand that instead.

I keep on learning. I was stopping at 240 because that is the finest
grit I could find for my sanding disk pads.

OK, I'm puzzled. Why then do places like woodcraft or rocklers carry
nothing above 240 in hook loop
sanding disks or paper?

I found some 400 online. For the 'New Wave Disks' the kits only go up
to 320 but some 400 and higher is shown. None of these finer grits are
available at the Denver Store. Most hardware stores like Home Depot
carry only up to about 240 grit sandpaper.

Do you guys buy these sanding disk rigs? What do you buy and where?

James Barley wrote:

I would think by "higher grit" Andrew is suggesting grits above 400, such as
600-1000.
200-240 grit is where a lot of turners start out at.
Another point worth mentioning is, I don't think the Beal buffing system was
ever meant to be used as a substitute for good sanding technique.
Sanding wet wood can be aided by surface drying the piece, such as with a
"hair dryer".

.... what James and DJ said....

- Andrew



"william kossack" wrote in message
news:4lq_b.43816$Xp.197902@attbi_s54...
I'm sanding up to 240 now but the wood has been wet and I wonder about
the effectiveness of sanding
with such a fine grit on wet wood.

www.klingspor.com

For grits up to 2000, check out auto supply stores.

Woodcraft sells 3" Wave discs up to 800 grit.

On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 19:31:57 GMT, william kossack wrote:

I keep on learning. I was stopping at 240 because that is the finest
grit I could find for my sanding disk pads.

OK, I'm puzzled. Why then do places like woodcraft or rocklers carry
nothing above 240 in hook loop
sanding disks or paper?

I found some 400 online. For the 'New Wave Disks' the kits only go up
to 320 but some 400 and higher is shown. None of these finer grits are
available at the Denver Store. Most hardware stores like Home Depot
carry only up to about 240 grit sandpaper.

Do you guys buy these sanding disk rigs? What do you buy and where?

James Barley wrote:

I would think by "higher grit" Andrew is suggesting grits above 400, such as
600-1000.
200-240 grit is where a lot of turners start out at.
Another point worth mentioning is, I don't think the Beal buffing system was
ever meant to be used as a substitute for good sanding technique.
Sanding wet wood can be aided by surface drying the piece, such as with a
"hair dryer".





Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com

Skip the Tripoli. Sand to a higher grit and then go to the white diamond and
then wax.

--
Steve Worcester
www.turningwood.com
Better Woodturning through Technology
(And a hell of alotta practice)



"william kossack" wrote in message
news:CVo_b.44875$4o.61731@attbi_s52...
I've done several bowls lately using lighter wood and it has gotten me
to thinking about the beall buffing system

One bowl was from a small piece of hackberry from a tree that died where
I work. I managed to get a couple logs
from the tree. The bowl turned out nice in general with some
interesting worm holes but a big problem was caused by the color of the
Tripoli used in the first step. I noticed that the Tripoli got into the
worm holes and into small pores in the wood. I had a dickens of a time
cleaning it out and even then some of the color remained behind.

Another bowl was from a piece of aspen and I had similar problems with
the color of the Tripoli bar.

There are two solutions as I can see. Either I should apply some other
finish first to fill the voids or find a substitute for the Tripoli that
is a lighter color.

The pads are the same. The Wave disc's wavy edge hangs over the pads (which they are designed to do).

On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 22:42:42 GMT, william kossack wrote:

I have a 2 inch pad and 3 inch pad for the non wave sanding kit. How
will the wave pads work on
the pads that I have? No point in buying new pads if they are not
needed at least until the others fall
appart.

Peter Teubel wrote:

Woodcraft sells 3" Wave discs up to 800 grit.

On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 19:31:57 GMT, william kossack wrote:



I keep on learning. I was stopping at 240 because that is the finest
grit I could find for my sanding disk pads.

OK, I'm puzzled. Why then do places like woodcraft or rocklers carry
nothing above 240 in hook loop
sanding disks or paper?

I found some 400 online. For the 'New Wave Disks' the kits only go up
to 320 but some 400 and higher is shown. None of these finer grits are
available at the Denver Store. Most hardware stores like Home Depot
carry only up to about 240 grit sandpaper.

Do you guys buy these sanding disk rigs? What do you buy and where?

James Barley wrote:



I would think by "higher grit" Andrew is suggesting grits above 400, such as
600-1000.
200-240 grit is where a lot of turners start out at.
Another point worth mentioning is, I don't think the Beal buffing system was
ever meant to be used as a substitute for good sanding technique.
Sanding wet wood can be aided by surface drying the piece, such as with a
"hair dryer".







Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com




Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com

Actually, wave backup pads are also offered.

Derek



"Peter Teubel" wrote in message The pads are the same. The Wave disc's
wavy edge hangs over the pads (which they are designed to do).