We don't need that sort of stuff on this woodturning newsgroup.

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

I coveted a bandsaw for years, finally earned a Grizzly 14" and was so
proud.
It ripped, scrolled and resawed like a Bandit! Now turning to a little hobby
metal work, I trimmed up a little bit of brass plate, using a wider and
coarser
blade. Now, Aluminum plate and bar stock are needing a little whittling.
What do you think, guys? Am I going to ruin my beautiful Grizzly, or is
it
just one of those infrequent uses that make life beautiful?

Old chief Lynn

In article ,
coffelt2 wrote:
I coveted a bandsaw for years, finally earned a Grizzly 14" and was so
proud. It ripped, scrolled and resawed like a Bandit! Now turning to a
little hobby metal work, I trimmed up a little bit of brass plate, using
a wider and coarser blade. Now, Aluminum plate and bar stock are needing
a little whittling. What do you think, guys? Am I going to ruin my
beautiful Grizzly, or is it just one of those infrequent uses that make
life beautiful?

Just make sure you use the proper metal cutting blade and you'll be fine.

--
Stuart Winsor

Midlands RISC OS and Raspberry pi show, 13th July 2013

http://www.mug.riscos.org/show13/MUGshow.html

On 5/30/2013 11:31 PM, coffelt2 wrote:
I coveted a bandsaw for years, finally earned a Grizzly 14" and was so
proud.
It ripped, scrolled and resawed like a Bandit! Now turning to a little
hobby
metal work, I trimmed up a little bit of brass plate, using a wider and
coarser
blade. Now, Aluminum plate and bar stock are needing a little whittling.
What do you think, guys? Am I going to ruin my beautiful Grizzly,
or is it
just one of those infrequent uses that make life beautiful?

Old chief Lynn


I cut aluminum and occasionally brass with whatever blade is on my
bandsaw - not that you need to have at least 3 teeth in contact wiht the
work at any time or you will be unhappy, and that a wood cutting saw
moves the blade WAAAAAY too fast, so you will dull the blade rapidly,
but it works. you can also use a carbide or regular table saw for these
softer metals.

On Fri, 31 May 2013 1:31:28 -0500, coffelt2 wrote
(in message ):

I coveted a bandsaw for years, finally earned a Grizzly 14" and was so
proud.
It ripped, scrolled and resawed like a Bandit! Now turning to a little hobby
metal work, I trimmed up a little bit of brass plate, using a wider and
coarser
blade. Now, Aluminum plate and bar stock are needing a little whittling.
What do you think, guys? Am I going to ruin my beautiful Grizzly, or is
it
just one of those infrequent uses that make life beautiful?

Old chief Lynn


I have the ability to control the speed of my bandsaw to a pretty slow speed.
I have an old blade that I use just for cutting aluminum and brass. I use a
little paraffin wax sometimes also when cutting metal - keeps the blade
lubricated a bit. When you're done, open up the cover so you can clean the
swarf (metal cuttings) off the bandsaw tires. As the other respondent said,
make sure you have enough teeth in contact with the metal - this should be a
fine tooth blade as opposed to a very coarse resaw blade. Beware of round
stuff, it will turn as the blade grabs it...make sure it is clamped well.
tom koehler

--
I will find a way or make one.

On Thu, 30 May 2013 23:31:28 -0700, "coffelt2"
wrote:

If the only or best choice you have is the bandsaw, go for it...
Basic safty gets really important now, so all the usual stuff,
especially eye protection...

If you can get a metal cutting blade, do it... Might not cut any
beter, but it won't mess up your normal blades...

I cut aluminum, brass and thin sheet metal on my chop saw, using a HF
carbide blade and clamps...
I've used the table saw, but feel safer on the chop saw...

Last thing is to try to remove all of the filings from the areas that
you're running wood through and the places that are supposed to
slide/roll on the blade..

I coveted a bandsaw for years, finally earned a Grizzly 14" and was so
proud.
It ripped, scrolled and resawed like a Bandit! Now turning to a little hobby
metal work, I trimmed up a little bit of brass plate, using a wider and
coarser
blade. Now, Aluminum plate and bar stock are needing a little whittling.
What do you think, guys? Am I going to ruin my beautiful Grizzly, or is
it
just one of those infrequent uses that make life beautiful?

Old chief Lynn

Remember steel and Aluminum don't mix. They can start a metal fire.
Be clean.

I have this issue on my oil based water cooled and I've had AL and Fe
bond together into a mass. I think I was lucky that my oil was
hygroscopic and constantly pulling in water.

I have a tall wood saw and a wide metal saw - both bands.

Martin

On 6/3/2013 12:57 AM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Thu, 30 May 2013 23:31:28 -0700, "coffelt2"
wrote:

If the only or best choice you have is the bandsaw, go for it...
Basic safty gets really important now, so all the usual stuff,
especially eye protection...

If you can get a metal cutting blade, do it... Might not cut any
beter, but it won't mess up your normal blades...

I cut aluminum, brass and thin sheet metal on my chop saw, using a HF
carbide blade and clamps...
I've used the table saw, but feel safer on the chop saw...

Last thing is to try to remove all of the filings from the areas that
you're running wood through and the places that are supposed to
slide/roll on the blade..

I coveted a bandsaw for years, finally earned a Grizzly 14" and was so
proud.
It ripped, scrolled and resawed like a Bandit! Now turning to a little hobby
metal work, I trimmed up a little bit of brass plate, using a wider and
coarser
blade. Now, Aluminum plate and bar stock are needing a little whittling.
What do you think, guys? Am I going to ruin my beautiful Grizzly, or is
it
just one of those infrequent uses that make life beautiful?

Old chief Lynn

On 6/3/2013 8:47 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Remember steel and Aluminum don't mix. They can start a metal fire.
Be clean.

That's really with only very fine (dry) powdery type mixtures. It
won't be a problem with a saw. Your clump just bonded because of
corrosion.


I have this issue on my oil based water cooled and I've had AL and Fe
bond together into a mass. I think I was lucky that my oil was
hygroscopic and constantly pulling in water.

I have a tall wood saw and a wide metal saw - both bands.

Martin

On 6/3/2013 12:57 AM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Thu, 30 May 2013 23:31:28 -0700, "coffelt2"
wrote:

If the only or best choice you have is the bandsaw, go for it...
Basic safty gets really important now, so all the usual stuff,
especially eye protection...

If you can get a metal cutting blade, do it... Might not cut any
beter, but it won't mess up your normal blades...

I cut aluminum, brass and thin sheet metal on my chop saw, using a HF
carbide blade and clamps...
I've used the table saw, but feel safer on the chop saw...

Last thing is to try to remove all of the filings from the areas that
you're running wood through and the places that are supposed to
slide/roll on the blade..

I coveted a bandsaw for years, finally earned a Grizzly 14" and was so
proud.
It ripped, scrolled and resawed like a Bandit! Now turning to a
little hobby
metal work, I trimmed up a little bit of brass plate, using a wider and
coarser
blade. Now, Aluminum plate and bar stock are needing a little whittling.
What do you think, guys? Am I going to ruin my beautiful
Grizzly, or is
it
just one of those infrequent uses that make life beautiful?

Old chief Lynn

On 6/3/2013 7:33 PM, asdfasdf wrote:
On 6/3/2013 8:47 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Remember steel and Aluminum don't mix. They can start a metal fire.
Be clean.

That's really with only very fine (dry) powdery type mixtures. It
won't be a problem with a saw. Your clump just bonded because of
corrosion.



the mixture of iron and aluminum powders is called "Thermite".

On 6/3/2013 11:02 PM, . wrote:
On 6/3/2013 7:33 PM, asdfasdf wrote:
On 6/3/2013 8:47 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Remember steel and Aluminum don't mix. They can start a metal fire.
Be clean.

That's really with only very fine (dry) powdery type mixtures. It
won't be a problem with a saw. Your clump just bonded because of
corrosion.



the mixture of iron and aluminum powders is called "Thermite".

Actually it's the mixture of aluminum (fuel) and iron OXIDE or rust (as
the oxidizer) that's called thermite.

I don't believe the ground AL and FE will do squat until the latter
turns to rust and the temperature is run up to around 600+ degrees.

On Mon, 03 Jun 2013 21:02:39 -0700, "." wrote:

On 6/3/2013 7:33 PM, asdfasdf wrote:
On 6/3/2013 8:47 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Remember steel and Aluminum don't mix. They can start a metal fire.
Be clean.

That's really with only very fine (dry) powdery type mixtures. It
won't be a problem with a saw. Your clump just bonded because of
corrosion.



the mixture of iron and aluminum powders is called "Thermite".

Military name: On ****, run!

On 6/6/2013 2:00 AM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Mon, 03 Jun 2013 21:02:39 -0700, "." wrote:

On 6/3/2013 7:33 PM, asdfasdf wrote:
On 6/3/2013 8:47 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Remember steel and Aluminum don't mix. They can start a metal fire.
Be clean.

That's really with only very fine (dry) powdery type mixtures. It
won't be a problem with a saw. Your clump just bonded because of
corrosion.



the mixture of iron and aluminum powders is called "Thermite".

Military name: On ****, run!


I don't have any experience with it but I thought it just burned.
Do you need to run from it?

In article ,
asdfasdf wrote:

On 6/6/2013 2:00 AM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Mon, 03 Jun 2013 21:02:39 -0700, "." wrote:

On 6/3/2013 7:33 PM, asdfasdf wrote:
On 6/3/2013 8:47 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Remember steel and Aluminum don't mix. They can start a metal fire.
Be clean.

That's really with only very fine (dry) powdery type mixtures. It
won't be a problem with a saw. Your clump just bonded because of
corrosion.



the mixture of iron and aluminum powders is called "Thermite".

Military name: On ****, run!


I don't have any experience with it but I thought it just burned.
Do you need to run from it?

It depends... factors like compression, size of the powders, etc; can
effect the "burn" rate, from slow to explosive.

Thermite on ice is going to cause a steam explosion

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Thu, 06 Jun 2013 22:26:22 -0400, asdfasdf
wrote:

On 6/6/2013 2:00 AM, Mac Davis wrote:
On Mon, 03 Jun 2013 21:02:39 -0700, "." wrote:

On 6/3/2013 7:33 PM, asdfasdf wrote:
On 6/3/2013 8:47 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Remember steel and Aluminum don't mix. They can start a metal fire.
Be clean.

That's really with only very fine (dry) powdery type mixtures. It
won't be a problem with a saw. Your clump just bonded because of
corrosion.



the mixture of iron and aluminum powders is called "Thermite".

Military name: On ****, run!


I don't have any experience with it but I thought it just burned.
Do you need to run from it?

They use thermite grenades for 2 things... Starting very hot fires
that burn metal and destroying radios and things that are about to be
captured....
I saw one go off accidently in a chopper and burn right through the
floor into the fuel tank... BIG boom...

In article ,
asdfasdf wrote:

I don't have any experience with it but I thought it just burned.
Do you need to run from it?

Used for welding lengths of railway line together in "the field".

http://www.thermit-welding.com/therm...ng_process.php

As someone else has stated, it's a mixture of Aluminium and Iron Oxide
powders not pure iron.

--
Stuart Winsor

Midlands RISC OS and Raspberry pi show, 13th July 2013

http://www.mug.riscos.org/show13/MUGshow.html

On 6/6/2013 9:26 PM, asdfasdf wrote:

the mixture of iron and aluminum powders is called "Thermite".

Military name: On ****, run!


I don't have any experience with it but I thought it just burned.
Do you need to run from it?


I think you're getting the picture from the other posts. Perhaps an
oversimplification, but think "steel foundry" with a large cauldron of
white hot molten steel (depending on the amount of thermite) being
poured on an object. If it's a nonflammable material it's VERY
interesting. If it's flammable, stand the f**k by, it's freakin' awesome.


When I was in the service, all the comms and crypto gear we had also had
fittings on top so we could wire in thermite cannisters (grenades(?))all
connected to a master panel several decks up "just in case." The plan
was that first the thermite was triggered and then the scuttling charges
would go off and send everything left to the bottom of the sea.

On Fri, 7 Jun 2013 3:13:55 -0500, Stuart wrote
(in message ):

In article ,
asdfasdf wrote:

I don't have any experience with it but I thought it just burned.
Do you need to run from it?

Used for welding lengths of railway line together in "the field".

http://www.thermit-welding.com/therm...ng_process.php

As someone else has stated, it's a mixture of Aluminium and Iron Oxide
powders not pure iron.



I was a track welder on a local RR before retiring to a life of sawdust. The
thermite was accurately described - aluminum and iron oxide. Aluminum
oxidizes very easily, so more accurately the mix is aluminum oxide and iron
oxide. When used for welding rails together the mix includes pellets of steel
alloy material compatible with the rail. Plain thermite produces molten iron,
so the materials in the rail thermite mix are intended to improve the metal
characterisitcs of the molten iron to produce a steel comparable to the rail.
Depending on the type of crucible used, the reaction can produce quite a
show. We would ignite the charge and then scoot promptly about 15 feet away,
until the reaction quieted down. With the advent of newer safer one-time
crucibles, there is very little metal splatter flying around during the
reaction. When the reaction is completed in about 20 seconds, the steel pours
into a mold where the rail ends are to be welded together. A considerable
mass of slag is also produced in the reaction. When properly ground after
sufficient cooling, the welded surface is a major improvement over the
conventional bolted joint, andno worries over loose or broken track bolts,
etc. The ignition source we used was a magnesium sparkler - brilliant white.
tom koehler

--
I will find a way or make one.