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  #1   Report Post  
Eric
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools

Hi there,

I'd be greatful if someone could share some experience about these
threading tools with me.

I've been trying many times to make threads for lidded boxes without
success. The doc that comes with the tools does not say much really,
and there is probably something to do that I dont know, or I do wrong.

Thnx for yr help

Eric
  #2   Report Post  
Fred Holder
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools

Hello Eric,

It takes a lot of practice to master using hand chasing of threads. I remember
my struggle to learn how using what I thought was hard wood. Then I reread the
book and discovered that their definition of hard wood was stuff like boxwood,
African Blackwood, Cocobolo, etc. I tried some Cocobolo and turned the lathe by
hand and wow I got a thread. I wrote an article for Woodturning magazine about
making threads while turning the lathe by hand. It was published in the June
1997 issue.

I subsquently wrote a book on making threads in wood that was published in June
of 2001. The name of the book is: "Making Screw Threads in Wood." It covers
making threads with chasers, with threading jigs, and even laying them out and
cutting them by hand. The book was published by GMC Publications in England and
is now in its second printing. You should be able to purchase if from
Amazon.com.

I should also mention that Allan Batty has a video out on hand thread chasing.
That also would answer most of your questions.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com

In article , Eric says...

Hi there,

I'd be greatful if someone could share some experience about these
threading tools with me.

I've been trying many times to make threads for lidded boxes without
success. The doc that comes with the tools does not say much really,
and there is probably something to do that I dont know, or I do wrong.

Thnx for yr help

Eric


  #3   Report Post  
AHilton
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools

I don't have a book to sell you g but I have one and use it so here are my
tips. I had a Sorby Corp. demonstrator show me how to do it himself about a
year ago. First of all, have you seen these instructions?....

http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/thread...nstruction.htm

They're probably the same that came with the tools. I got mine at the
demonstration and didn't get any paper instructions. I wish they'd put out
a video but I don't know that you could get much out of it anyway.

Some of the tips given to me...

1) Slower is better. I prefer around 200 rpm. I can "feel" the threads
forming easier this way.

2) Harder is better. Hard woods with, especially, tight and interlocking
grains are best. French Boxwood (ie the plastic wood) is what the
demonstrator used and I've found nothing better. Of course, you can't make
everything out of that but it's fantastic to practice on.

3) Get the feel. Develop a rythm as you form the threads. Make several
small passes AFTER you make the initial somehwat heavy first pass. That
heavy first pass needs to be right on so that your next passes have
something to hold onto and guide them.

4) Make sure you have that relief at the back of the inside threads!

5) I don't like the tool support rest. Too many things going on at once
with that extra tool. I prefer to use just the lathe's toolrest for the
inside threads whenever possible.

6) My main problem is getting the male and female pieces (not the threads
really) sized correctly. Take very accurate measurements and then oversize
the male. You can always sand a bit and reform the threads if need be.

Other than that, the instructions on the website pretty much say it all. It
just takes practice practice practice like anything else. Also, if you can
find somebody who knows how to do it, it makes all the difference in the
world to have them hand-hold you. You'll have it down in 10 minutes.

Good luck,

- Andrew




"Eric" wrote in message
m...
Hi there,

I'd be greatful if someone could share some experience about these
threading tools with me.

I've been trying many times to make threads for lidded boxes without
success. The doc that comes with the tools does not say much really,
and there is probably something to do that I dont know, or I do wrong.

Thnx for yr help

Eric



  #4   Report Post  
M.J. Orr
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools

Did you not get the sizing gauge with your threading tools?

--
Email evades spam
Direct contact through web site

M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
τΏτ
~

"AHilton" wrote in message
...
I don't have a book to sell you g but I have one and use it so here are

my
tips. I had a Sorby Corp. demonstrator show me how to do it himself about

a
year ago. First of all, have you seen these instructions?....

http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/thread...nstruction.htm

They're probably the same that came with the tools. I got mine at the
demonstration and didn't get any paper instructions. I wish they'd put

out
a video but I don't know that you could get much out of it anyway.

Some of the tips given to me...

1) Slower is better. I prefer around 200 rpm. I can "feel" the threads
forming easier this way.

2) Harder is better. Hard woods with, especially, tight and interlocking
grains are best. French Boxwood (ie the plastic wood) is what the
demonstrator used and I've found nothing better. Of course, you can't

make
everything out of that but it's fantastic to practice on.

3) Get the feel. Develop a rythm as you form the threads. Make several
small passes AFTER you make the initial somehwat heavy first pass. That
heavy first pass needs to be right on so that your next passes have
something to hold onto and guide them.

4) Make sure you have that relief at the back of the inside threads!

5) I don't like the tool support rest. Too many things going on at once
with that extra tool. I prefer to use just the lathe's toolrest for the
inside threads whenever possible.

6) My main problem is getting the male and female pieces (not the threads
really) sized correctly. Take very accurate measurements and then

oversize
the male. You can always sand a bit and reform the threads if need be.

Other than that, the instructions on the website pretty much say it all.

It
just takes practice practice practice like anything else. Also, if you

can
find somebody who knows how to do it, it makes all the difference in the
world to have them hand-hold you. You'll have it down in 10 minutes.

Good luck,

- Andrew




"Eric" wrote in message
m...
Hi there,

I'd be greatful if someone could share some experience about these
threading tools with me.

I've been trying many times to make threads for lidded boxes without
success. The doc that comes with the tools does not say much really,
and there is probably something to do that I dont know, or I do wrong.

Thnx for yr help

Eric





  #5   Report Post  
AHilton
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools

Yes, I did. I still have problems with sizing sometimes. I said it's my
main problem with the tools but even that isn't a huge one.

- Andrew



"M.J. Orr" wrote in message
...
Did you not get the sizing gauge with your threading tools?

--
Email evades spam
Direct contact through web site

M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
τΏτ
~






  #6   Report Post  
M.J. Orr
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools

I guess what I am asking is....if the gauge does not give you an ACCURATE
measurement then ..... is the sizing gauge a waste of
time/money?...................Just curious........

--
Email evades spam
Direct contact through web site

M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
τΏτ
~

"AHilton" wrote in message
...
Yes, I did. I still have problems with sizing sometimes. I said it's my
main problem with the tools but even that isn't a huge one.

- Andrew



"M.J. Orr" wrote in message
...
Did you not get the sizing gauge with your threading tools?

--
Email evades spam
Direct contact through web site

M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
τΏτ
~






  #7   Report Post  
AHilton
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools

Ohh, ok. I misunderstood. The gauge (at least mine) does give an accurate
measurement but it's the process of cutting the male thread cleanly and
accurately the first time and not wasting away ANY wood (thickness) in the
process.

This one of the reasons I mentioned originally of making things slightly
"oversized"; cutting the threads and then sanding/re-forming the threads
again to get the fit just right. If you can get the motion of cutting the
male threads just right then the gauge is right on and you'll get a tight
fit in the threads.

I think the sizing gauge is a must-have unless you have something that'll do
the same thing already (metal working?).

- Andrew



"M.J. Orr" wrote in message
...
I guess what I am asking is....if the gauge does not give you an ACCURATE
measurement then ..... is the sizing gauge a waste of
time/money?...................Just curious........

--
Email evades spam
Direct contact through web site

M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
τΏτ




  #8   Report Post  
Fred Holder
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools (a bit long)

Having been accused of having a book for sale, I felt perhaps that I should add
a few more comments that may help you. This is an extract from an article that I
wrote on the subject:

One of the ancient turning techniques that has been gaining in interest over the
last few years is the art of hand chasing threads. I first became interested in
this almost forgotten turning technique when I began reading Bill Jones' column
in Woodturning magazine (the UK publication). I had never even heard the term
before. Thus, began a search, in fact, almost an obsession to learn more about
this topic and also to learn how to do it. I've been making threads in metal
with tap and die for many many years, but the thoughts of freehand cutting
threads on a lathe intrigued me. The road from hearing about thread chasing to
actually chasing a successful thread was not an easy one, but the journey has
been an interesting one.

The first stage of my journey was John Jacob Holtzapffel's book, Hand or Simple
Turning, where he devotes a section to the tools for chasing threads and how to
use them in making threads on hardwood and ivory items. I read the sections on
making and using chasers and tried to make my own, an outside chaser, but it
didn't work. Finally, I found a location that had a supply of used chasers for
sale, G & M Tools in England. They sold them for $6.00 each or $12.00 per pair.
I ordered several pairs and wound up with chasers for 11 tpi, 16 tpi, 19 tpi,
and 24 tpi. They didn't work either. I decided it must be the speed, my lowest
lathe speed was 500 rpm. I even tried using my Carba-Tec lathe and turning it by
hand to get the speed down to a manageable level. Nothing seemed to work. I was
almost to the point of giving up.

I re-read Holtzapffel's book, he says that chasers are used to cut threads in
hard woods and ivory. He says, that a different technique was required for
cutting threads in softwoods, I didn't see this at first, or at least it didn't
regester. I began to rethink my definition of hard woods. I had been using
maple and apple woods, considering them "hard wood." I had some cocobolo on
hand, so I chucked up a piece onto my Carba-Tec turning the lathe by hand. I
tried the 11 tpi chaser, thinking that the coarser thread would be easier to
cut. I was wrong about that, but it worked anyway. I was elated and the journey
continued with a search for more answers. I purchased one of Dennis White's
videos that included a section on thread chasing and James Lukin's book, Turning
Lathes, which also has a good section on thread chasing. Anytime I had some
spare time to play and a piece of suitable hardwood, I cut a few threads.
Incidentally, that chaser I had made in the beginning now worked also. I'm
afraid my main problem was in the definition of what is "hard" wood.

I wanted to share what I had learned, so I wrote an article on this subject for
the British Magazine, Woodturning. That article was published in their June 1997
issue and reprinted in Useful Techniques for Woodturners, one of "The best from
Woodturning Magazine" series. In that article, I described chasing threads on a
Carba-Tec lathe by turning the lathe with my left hand while I held the chaser
with my right hand. It worked very well and I've cut a lot of threads in that
manner.

Both Holtzapffel and Lukin were using treadle lathes. Before treadle lathes,
turners had used springpole lathes. So, I graduated to my foot powered lathe,
it is a spring pole type with a lathe spindle and a full three revolutions per
downward stroke. Wow, this was even easier than turning the Carba-Tec by hand,
I now had both hands to work the tool. I began to feel confident. Enough so that
when I agreed to demonstrate my foot powered lathe at the January 1997 meeting
of The Seattle Chapter of AAW, I included thread chasing. Since then, I often
demonstrate this technique at craft shows when people ask how I cut the threads
in one of my threaded boxes. I have now progressed to chasing threads at 500
rpm. I will admit, however, that a speed of 100 or 200 rpm would make it a great
deal easier.

I share the above with you to explain how I got from hearing about thread
chasing to actually doing it successfully. I'm sure the journey would have been
much shorter had I been able to watch Bill Jones or Allan Batty demonstrate the
technique. A chance that didn't come about until after I had finally learned to
chase threads on my own.

First, you have to have a pair of thread chasers, one for the inside and one for
the outside, as shown in Fig. 1 (This was a more difficult task when I began my
journey, now you can buy them from several locations .). Incidentally, when it
comes time to sharpen that chaser, hone or grind on the very top only. Bill
Jones and Allan Batty both recommend grinding on the top of the chaser - never ,
ever grind on the face. I sometimes grind the top and sometimes use a diamond
hone, either works well.

You also need a suitable supply of "hard wood". Wood that is hard enough for
thread chasing is generally wood that will cut cleanly with a scraper: lignum
vitae, boxwood, Osage Orange, desert Ironwood, redheart, African Blackwood (the
best). I've also cut threads in oak, black locust, holly, and mesquite. I've
even used a bit of Red Lable Hot Stuff CA Glue to harden apple wood enough to
cut threads in it, but I don't recommend the softer woods. The key is a dense
hard wood that will take and hold fine detail. This defined, let's get to making
threads.

In all of the literature I read there was no definition as to which you should
make first, the inside (female) thread or the outside (male) thread. Bill
Jones didn't seem to think that it mattered, but Allan Batty says to make the
inside thread first. He says that the inside thread is more difficult to make,
because you can't see what is going on inside the hole. I agree with him. A lot
of my thread chasing practice has been to take a 16 tpi chaser and make a thread
to fit a 3/4" x 16 tpi nut. This was always a trial and error situation until I
watched Batty demonstrate at Provo in June of 1997. He said to make your inside
thread first and then on the end of the external thread to make a short tenon
that just fits into the inside thread. This tenon is then the bottom of the
external thread, when your chaser marks this area, your nut or box top will
screw on.

Hope this explains the subject a bit more.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com?

In article , Eric says...

Hi there,

I'd be greatful if someone could share some experience about these
threading tools with me.

I've been trying many times to make threads for lidded boxes without
success. The doc that comes with the tools does not say much really,
and there is probably something to do that I dont know, or I do wrong.

Thnx for yr help

Eric


  #9   Report Post  
Lyn J. Mangiameli
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools (a bit long)



Fred Holder wrote:
Having been accused of having a book for sale, I felt perhaps that I should add
a few more comments that may help you. This is an extract from an article that I
wrote on the subject:


I think Andrew tried to indicate that he was joking, but for those less
familiar with Fred, I'd like to point out that Fred has never pushed his
books nor the periodical he publishes (and I regularly write for) More
Woodturning. As I see it, Fred was mentioning the book to point out that
he has given a lot of thought to this topic, and has some credentials in
the area (he has also demonstrated thread making to an international
audience).

I'm not much into making threads, but I have followed the literature.
Fred's book, and the chapter in Mike Darlow's (second, I think) book are
the best available print resources on the techniques and equipment
called for that I have encountered. I find the two presentations
complimentary, rather than redundant, and recommend them to anyone
wishing to regularly engage in thread making.

There are also a couple of good videos on the subject, though they are
more specific to a particular method, while the written materials
present the full range of means by which threading can be accomplished.

Lyn

  #10   Report Post  
AHilton
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools (a bit long)

Accused? Nobody had to accuse you of anything. You freely did it yourself.
g

"I subsquently wrote a book on making threads in wood"

Really? Could you provide some way ... any way at all to find this book?

"that was published in June of 2001."

Yeah, but so many books were published in June of 2001 concerning this
topic.

"The name of the book is: "Making Screw Threads in Wood.""

Hmmmm I still can't find it in the library .... could you give us just a
little more information on it?

"The book was published by GMC Publications in England"

Ahh, ok. Yeah, but how popular is it?

"is now in its second printing."

Sounds good! But where can the average Joe Slob.... like myself .... FIND
it?

"You should be able to purchase if from Amazon.com"

Bzzzzt. What's the ISBN / Link / etc? Come on, Fred. Don't cut the pitch
short. bg



But I wonder if you actually answered the original posters' question with
that or simply provided a nice teaser for your book and/or article. This
could certainly be considered a most masterfully constructed veiled
accusation if you want. .... *cough cough cough* g

On a more serious note, do you in your article/book or the Allan Batty video
go into the Sorby Threading tools? Or should I just buy them to find out?
ba-da-boom.

- Andrew



Having been accused of having a book for sale, I felt perhaps that I

should add
a few more comments that may help you. This is an extract from an article

that I
wrote on the subject:






  #11   Report Post  
Lyn J. Mangiameli
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools

Well, let's see if this will help you out, Andrew:

Paperback: 144 pages ;
Dimensions (in inches): 0.38 x 10.82 x 8.22
Publisher: Guild of Master Craftsman Pubns Ltd; (December 31, 2001)
ISBN: 1861081952
Amazon URL:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...id=1076561324/
sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/103-8248693-8976667?v=glance&s=books#product-details
(mind the wrap)

Through Amazon, it costs all of the princely sum of $10.47.

Lyn

AHilton wrote:

Accused? Nobody had to accuse you of anything. You freely did it yourself.
g

"I subsquently wrote a book on making threads in wood"

Really? Could you provide some way ... any way at all to find this book?

"that was published in June of 2001."

Yeah, but so many books were published in June of 2001 concerning this
topic.

"The name of the book is: "Making Screw Threads in Wood.""

Hmmmm I still can't find it in the library .... could you give us just a
little more information on it?

"The book was published by GMC Publications in England"

Ahh, ok. Yeah, but how popular is it?

"is now in its second printing."

Sounds good! But where can the average Joe Slob.... like myself .... FIND
it?

"You should be able to purchase if from Amazon.com"

Bzzzzt. What's the ISBN / Link / etc? Come on, Fred. Don't cut the pitch
short. bg



But I wonder if you actually answered the original posters' question with
that or simply provided a nice teaser for your book and/or article. This
could certainly be considered a most masterfully constructed veiled
accusation if you want. .... *cough cough cough* g

On a more serious note, do you in your article/book or the Allan Batty video
go into the Sorby Threading tools? Or should I just buy them to find out?
ba-da-boom.

- Andrew




Having been accused of having a book for sale, I felt perhaps that I


should add

a few more comments that may help you. This is an extract from an article


that I

wrote on the subject:






  #12   Report Post  
Leo Van Der Loo
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools (a bit long)

Thank you Fred, this makes the threading thing a whole lot better and
easier to understand, and I now know what I did wrong G

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Fred Holder wrote:
Having been accused of having a book for sale, I felt perhaps that I should add
a few more comments that may help you. This is an extract from an article that I
wrote on the subject:

One of the ancient turning techniques that has been gaining in interest over the
last few years is the art of hand chasing threads. I first became interested in
this almost forgotten turning technique when I began reading Bill Jones' column
in Woodturning magazine (the UK publication). I had never even heard the term
before. Thus, began a search, in fact, almost an obsession to learn more about
this topic and also to learn how to do it. I've been making threads in metal
with tap and die for many many years, but the thoughts of freehand cutting
threads on a lathe intrigued me. The road from hearing about thread chasing to
actually chasing a successful thread was not an easy one, but the journey has
been an interesting one.

The first stage of my journey was John Jacob Holtzapffel's book, Hand or Simple
Turning, where he devotes a section to the tools for chasing threads and how to
use them in making threads on hardwood and ivory items. I read the sections on
making and using chasers and tried to make my own, an outside chaser, but it
didn't work. Finally, I found a location that had a supply of used chasers for
sale, G & M Tools in England. They sold them for $6.00 each or $12.00 per pair.
I ordered several pairs and wound up with chasers for 11 tpi, 16 tpi, 19 tpi,
and 24 tpi. They didn't work either. I decided it must be the speed, my lowest
lathe speed was 500 rpm. I even tried using my Carba-Tec lathe and turning it by
hand to get the speed down to a manageable level. Nothing seemed to work. I was
almost to the point of giving up.

I re-read Holtzapffel's book, he says that chasers are used to cut threads in
hard woods and ivory. He says, that a different technique was required for
cutting threads in softwoods, I didn't see this at first, or at least it didn't
regester. I began to rethink my definition of hard woods. I had been using
maple and apple woods, considering them "hard wood." I had some cocobolo on
hand, so I chucked up a piece onto my Carba-Tec turning the lathe by hand. I
tried the 11 tpi chaser, thinking that the coarser thread would be easier to
cut. I was wrong about that, but it worked anyway. I was elated and the journey
continued with a search for more answers. I purchased one of Dennis White's
videos that included a section on thread chasing and James Lukin's book, Turning
Lathes, which also has a good section on thread chasing. Anytime I had some
spare time to play and a piece of suitable hardwood, I cut a few threads.
Incidentally, that chaser I had made in the beginning now worked also. I'm
afraid my main problem was in the definition of what is "hard" wood.

I wanted to share what I had learned, so I wrote an article on this subject for
the British Magazine, Woodturning. That article was published in their June 1997
issue and reprinted in Useful Techniques for Woodturners, one of "The best from
Woodturning Magazine" series. In that article, I described chasing threads on a
Carba-Tec lathe by turning the lathe with my left hand while I held the chaser
with my right hand. It worked very well and I've cut a lot of threads in that
manner.

Both Holtzapffel and Lukin were using treadle lathes. Before treadle lathes,
turners had used springpole lathes. So, I graduated to my foot powered lathe,
it is a spring pole type with a lathe spindle and a full three revolutions per
downward stroke. Wow, this was even easier than turning the Carba-Tec by hand,
I now had both hands to work the tool. I began to feel confident. Enough so that
when I agreed to demonstrate my foot powered lathe at the January 1997 meeting
of The Seattle Chapter of AAW, I included thread chasing. Since then, I often
demonstrate this technique at craft shows when people ask how I cut the threads
in one of my threaded boxes. I have now progressed to chasing threads at 500
rpm. I will admit, however, that a speed of 100 or 200 rpm would make it a great
deal easier.

I share the above with you to explain how I got from hearing about thread
chasing to actually doing it successfully. I'm sure the journey would have been
much shorter had I been able to watch Bill Jones or Allan Batty demonstrate the
technique. A chance that didn't come about until after I had finally learned to
chase threads on my own.

First, you have to have a pair of thread chasers, one for the inside and one for
the outside, as shown in Fig. 1 (This was a more difficult task when I began my
journey, now you can buy them from several locations .). Incidentally, when it
comes time to sharpen that chaser, hone or grind on the very top only. Bill
Jones and Allan Batty both recommend grinding on the top of the chaser - never ,
ever grind on the face. I sometimes grind the top and sometimes use a diamond
hone, either works well.

You also need a suitable supply of "hard wood". Wood that is hard enough for
thread chasing is generally wood that will cut cleanly with a scraper: lignum
vitae, boxwood, Osage Orange, desert Ironwood, redheart, African Blackwood (the
best). I've also cut threads in oak, black locust, holly, and mesquite. I've
even used a bit of Red Lable Hot Stuff CA Glue to harden apple wood enough to
cut threads in it, but I don't recommend the softer woods. The key is a dense
hard wood that will take and hold fine detail. This defined, let's get to making
threads.

In all of the literature I read there was no definition as to which you should
make first, the inside (female) thread or the outside (male) thread. Bill
Jones didn't seem to think that it mattered, but Allan Batty says to make the
inside thread first. He says that the inside thread is more difficult to make,
because you can't see what is going on inside the hole. I agree with him. A lot
of my thread chasing practice has been to take a 16 tpi chaser and make a thread
to fit a 3/4" x 16 tpi nut. This was always a trial and error situation until I
watched Batty demonstrate at Provo in June of 1997. He said to make your inside
thread first and then on the end of the external thread to make a short tenon
that just fits into the inside thread. This tenon is then the bottom of the
external thread, when your chaser marks this area, your nut or box top will
screw on.

Hope this explains the subject a bit more.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com?

In article , Eric says...

Hi there,

I'd be greatful if someone could share some experience about these
threading tools with me.

I've been trying many times to make threads for lidded boxes without
success. The doc that comes with the tools does not say much really,
and there is probably something to do that I dont know, or I do wrong.

Thnx for yr help

Eric




  #13   Report Post  
M.J. Orr
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools

Thanks Andrew......................

--
Email evades spam
Direct contact through web site

M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
τΏτ
~

"AHilton" wrote in message
...
Ohh, ok. I misunderstood. The gauge (at least mine) does give an

accurate
measurement but it's the process of cutting the male thread cleanly and
accurately the first time and not wasting away ANY wood (thickness) in the
process.

This one of the reasons I mentioned originally of making things slightly
"oversized"; cutting the threads and then sanding/re-forming the threads
again to get the fit just right. If you can get the motion of cutting the
male threads just right then the gauge is right on and you'll get a tight
fit in the threads.

I think the sizing gauge is a must-have unless you have something that'll

do
the same thing already (metal working?).

- Andrew



"M.J. Orr" wrote in message
...
I guess what I am asking is....if the gauge does not give you an

ACCURATE
measurement then ..... is the sizing gauge a waste of
time/money?...................Just curious........

--
Email evades spam
Direct contact through web site

M.J. Orr
http://www.island.net/~morr
τΏτ






  #14   Report Post  
AHilton
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools

Excellent Lyn. Thanks. Fred should hire you.

- Andrew



"Lyn J. Mangiameli" wrote in message
k.net...
Well, let's see if this will help you out, Andrew:

Paperback: 144 pages ;
Dimensions (in inches): 0.38 x 10.82 x 8.22
Publisher: Guild of Master Craftsman Pubns Ltd; (December 31, 2001)
ISBN: 1861081952
Amazon URL:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...id=1076561324/
sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/103-8248693-8976667?v=glance&s=books#product-details
(mind the wrap)

Through Amazon, it costs all of the princely sum of $10.47.




  #15   Report Post  
Eric
 
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Default Sorby threading tools

Hi Guys,

Thank you all for your help. I know what I have to do now. If I want
to get this book, I'll buy it. Andrew your advices are precious as
well.
Fred I've been on your site. I was also told about Allan Batty's
Video.
Everything's fine.
Cheers
Eric


  #16   Report Post  
Don Murray
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sorby threading tools



AHilton wrote:

Excellent Lyn. Thanks. Fred should hire you.

- Andrew


I think he does.

Don


"Lyn J. Mangiameli" wrote:
Fred has never pushed his
books nor the periodical he publishes (and I regularly write for) More
Woodturning.
Lyn

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