Chess set finish
 

I'm expecting to turn a set of chessmen (pretty aggressive first project
in many years on a lathe) of probably Juniper and probably Maple, pine
or another light colored wood. I'm trying to figure out what would be a
good finish for the set. I'm considered wax as I think I can do a lot
of it while the pieces are still on the lathe but am unsure of how often
I may have to rewax it - never used wax on wood before. Any comments on
using wax for a chess set?


I've also considered lacquer or one of its derivitives or similar
products and dipping the pieces several times to build up a nice thick
finish & shine. Did this many years ago with a gearshift knob(60's,
what else?). I know how it'll turn out with this but really am curious
about using wax. FWIW, the chess board will be etched glass set in a
nice wooden box yet to be made.

Chess set finish
 

You don't want to use wax as an only finish. It just doesn't hold up to the
use (I assume it's to be actually used as opposed to just a display) even
with a good hard carnauba wax job.

Use the lacquer or a polyurethane but I wouldn't think you would want to
have a heavy feeling to it as you would with many coats. Just 5 or 6 thin
even coats of good quality spray lacquer (with sanding between) and then a
light buffing would wear very well and look great.

- Andrew


"Grandpa" jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote in message
...
I'm expecting to turn a set of chessmen (pretty aggressive first project
in many years on a lathe) of probably Juniper and probably Maple, pine
or another light colored wood. I'm trying to figure out what would be a
good finish for the set. I'm considered wax as I think I can do a lot
of it while the pieces are still on the lathe but am unsure of how often
I may have to rewax it - never used wax on wood before. Any comments on
using wax for a chess set?


I've also considered lacquer or one of its derivitives or similar
products and dipping the pieces several times to build up a nice thick
finish & shine. Did this many years ago with a gearshift knob(60's,
what else?). I know how it'll turn out with this but really am curious
about using wax. FWIW, the chess board will be etched glass set in a
nice wooden box yet to be made.

Chess set finish
 

Grandpa" jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote in message
...
I'm expecting to turn a set of chessmen (pretty aggressive first project
in many years on a lathe) of probably Juniper and probably Maple, pine
or another light colored wood. I'm trying to figure out what would be a
good finish for the set. I'm considered wax as I think I can do a lot
of it while the pieces are still on the lathe but am unsure of how often
I may have to rewax it - never used wax on wood before. Any comments on
using wax for a chess set?


I've also considered lacquer or one of its derivitives or similar
products and dipping the pieces several times to build up a nice thick
finish & shine. Did this many years ago with a gearshift knob(60's,
what else?). I know how it'll turn out with this but really am curious
about using wax. FWIW, the chess board will be etched glass set in a
nice wooden box yet to be made.

If just decroative, then whatever finish looks good. For a working chess
set, then you need polyurethane. Suggest dark walnut for black pieces and
clear poly for white

Chess set finish
 

bw wrote:
Grandpa" jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote in message
...

I'm expecting to turn a set of chessmen (pretty aggressive first project
in many years on a lathe) of probably Juniper and probably Maple, pine
or another light colored wood. I'm trying to figure out what would be a
good finish for the set. I'm considered wax as I think I can do a lot
of it while the pieces are still on the lathe but am unsure of how often
I may have to rewax it - never used wax on wood before. Any comments on
using wax for a chess set?


I've also considered lacquer or one of its derivitives or similar
products and dipping the pieces several times to build up a nice thick
finish & shine. Did this many years ago with a gearshift knob(60's,
what else?). I know how it'll turn out with this but really am curious
about using wax. FWIW, the chess board will be etched glass set in a
nice wooden box yet to be made.


If just decroative, then whatever finish looks good. For a working chess
set, then you need polyurethane. Suggest dark walnut for black pieces and
clear poly for white

Hmmm, good points you and Andrew make. It will be used on occasion but
not very often. In fact, if I whoop my oldest son's butt like I expect,
it'll probably get used even lessG. Sounds like Poly is the way to
go. Thanks!

Chess set finish
 

I'd probably use an oil plus wax finish. Film finishes like poly or
lacquer will eventually wear off. You might also do a search on this
newsgroup for pen finishes. There have been several discussions about
the best finish for something that is meant to be handled.

Grandpa jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote in message ...
bw wrote:
Grandpa" jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote in message
...

I'm expecting to turn a set of chessmen (pretty aggressive first project
in many years on a lathe) of probably Juniper and probably Maple, pine
or another light colored wood. I'm trying to figure out what would be a
good finish for the set. I'm considered wax as I think I can do a lot
of it while the pieces are still on the lathe but am unsure of how often
I may have to rewax it - never used wax on wood before. Any comments on
using wax for a chess set?


I've also considered lacquer or one of its derivitives or similar
products and dipping the pieces several times to build up a nice thick
finish & shine. Did this many years ago with a gearshift knob(60's,
what else?). I know how it'll turn out with this but really am curious
about using wax. FWIW, the chess board will be etched glass set in a
nice wooden box yet to be made.


If just decroative, then whatever finish looks good. For a working chess
set, then you need polyurethane. Suggest dark walnut for black pieces and
clear poly for white

Hmmm, good points you and Andrew make. It will be used on occasion but
not very often. In fact, if I whoop my oldest son's butt like I expect,
it'll probably get used even lessG. Sounds like Poly is the way to
go. Thanks!

Chess set finish
 

.... and an oil/wax finish is near last place for a lasting, high-use finish.


- Andrew



"ed french" wrote in message
om...
I'd probably use an oil plus wax finish. Film finishes like poly or
lacquer will eventually wear off. You might also do a search on this
newsgroup for pen finishes. There have been several discussions about
the best finish for something that is meant to be handled.

Chess set finish
 

...and in near first place for an easily renewed, attractive finish. :)
Arch

Fortiter,

Chess set finish
 

I used water base dye and Watco Oil on the dark pieces and just plain Watco Oil on the light pieces.
Check it out: https://home.comcast.net/~phileen/Gallery.htm Phil




On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 13:22:21 -0700, Grandpa jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote:

I'm expecting to turn a set of chessmen (pretty aggressive first project
in many years on a lathe) of probably Juniper and probably Maple, pine
or another light colored wood. I'm trying to figure out what would be a
good finish for the set. I'm considered wax as I think I can do a lot
of it while the pieces are still on the lathe but am unsure of how often
I may have to rewax it - never used wax on wood before. Any comments on
using wax for a chess set?


I've also considered lacquer or one of its derivitives or similar
products and dipping the pieces several times to build up a nice thick
finish & shine. Did this many years ago with a gearshift knob(60's,
what else?). I know how it'll turn out with this but really am curious
about using wax. FWIW, the chess board will be etched glass set in a
nice wooden box yet to be made.

Chess set finish
 

Which is, in essence, polyurethane and linseed oil. Not a bad wearing
finish as long as you make it thick. But, somewhat like epoxy, too thick a
coating doesn't feel good. You have to balance feel, looks, and protection.

- Andrew


"fipster" wrote in message
...
I used water base dye and Watco Oil on the dark pieces and just plain
Watco Oil on the light pieces.
Check it out: https://home.comcast.net/~phileen/Gallery.htm
Phil

Chess set finish
 

Chess set finish
 

*sigh* Ever seen a regularly used chess set (or checkers/backgammon/hammer
dulcimer strikers/etc.) finished only in an oil/wax? They look terrible.
They have dark and light spots (those *wonderful* wear patterns!) and the
wood is visibly, physically worn unevenly. That "enchanced (sic) by the
natural wear patterns" idea is somewhat romantic in notion and hides a poor
finishing choice for the items' use in that very idea but does a dis-service
to the owner of it. They want something unique, handmade, attractive and
meant to stay that way over the long term.

Easily renewed? Sure. By whom? You think a customer is going to actually
do it? And you think that a customer wants an item that they HAVE to renew
the finish on if they are going to use it regularly? Why make them do that
when they don't have to?

You like that slightly tacky feel of a wax outer coating ("feels good to the
hand")? I certainly do in many cases depending on the item I'm using.
That's why I recommended giving the items a good, durable, light coating of
a lacquer or urethane (too much makes it heavy and, in your term,
"plasticated (sic)") with a hard carnauba wax buffing. You get the best of
both worlds in this particular case. A few thin, quality coats of lacquer
does not give a "plastic" feeling. You're not going to wear through the
lacquer coating if it's done with quality lacquer and applied correctly.
Nothing will help a poor finishing job or with poor quality components.

A customer isn't buying (or receiving as a gift) a hand-turned chess piece
just for the finish used. They're going to like it because of the wood used;
the thought going into it by the creator; the hand-made (sort of) process
that went into it. The finish is, obviously, an important part and
time/effort needs to go into it just as much as the rest. Don't skimp on
just oiling/waxing it and then putting the burdon on them to do the job that
you should have done in the first place over and over again.

If the chess set isn't going to be used all that much, then I'd say go for
the oil/wax finish. It's easier/quicker to apply; will look good for long
enough; and protect the items sufficiently.

There are lots of ways to go about finishing as there is anything else. I
don't purport to suggest that there is ONLY one way as many
woodworkers/woodturners ONLY use one method of finishing for everything. I
use a variety of finishing products and techniques. I fit myself to the item
and not the other way around. Use what you want but be aware of the issues
involved so you can make informed choices.


- Andrew



"Ecnerwal" wrote in message
...
(Arch) wrote: (about oil/wax finish)

..and in near first place for an easily renewed, attractive finish. :)
Arch

...That feels good to the hand. If I want plastic chess pieces, I can go
buy a set made of plastic; I don't need to coat wood in plastic until my
fingers can't tell the difference. If the set is extensively used, the
plastic will eventually wear off unevenly, and result in a refinishing
problem of significant proportions if plasticated. An oil/wax finished
set will be easily refreshed, and will be enchanced by the natural wear
patterns, as they won't be cutting through a layer of plastic. And they
will feel good to handle...

However, DWYL, TWYT, DWMTWYRW.

--
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by

Chess set finish
 

AHilton wrote:

... and an oil/wax finish is near last place for a lasting, high-use
finish.

What would be last place? Rubbed on forehead grease? :)

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Chess set finish
 

... and an oil/wax finish is near last place for a lasting, high-use
finish.

What would be last place? Rubbed on forehead grease? :)


Tung oil. MY *tung* ... oil. You know ... licking it.


Actually, I think the worst wearing common finish I've seen is just a plain
non-drying oil like mineral or vegetable. Of course, they have their uses
and I make lots of kitchenware and use these (well, never vegetable) alone
all the time. But I don't expect them to last and protect. Some do. Go
figure.



- Andrew

Chess set finish
 

Sorry for waxing zealously about oil finishes. :=( Arch

Fortiter,