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Old August 1st 12, 03:04 PM posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Default Anybody using the Nova Cole Jaws or How to get a smooth bottom?

Good morning,

I'm interested in these jaws:

http://www.sears.com/nova-woodworkin...1&blockType=G1

But I have a couple of questions. I have a Jet JML-1014 lathe with a 10" swing. I'm wondering if these will fit. The largest bowl I can turn is ~ 10" and I hate to give up too much of that if I can avoid it. But I also like to turn very thin bowls if possible. So, if I recess the bottom to fit on my Nova jaws then I end up having to have the bottom thicker then I want.. I would like to turn down that recess flush and thought this would be a solution. I'm also looking at those "donut" jigs, but from what I read I could lose up to 2" off the overall diameter if I do that. Would this also be the problem with the cole jaws? Would I have to give up a lot to achieve this.

Essentially, I guess what I want is the largest bowl I can get, turned thin, with a smooth bottom.

Hmmm, sounds like the perfect woman...

Anyway, any suggestions, as always, appreciated.

-Jim

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Old August 1st 12, 05:02 PM posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Default Anybody using the Nova Cole Jaws or How to get a smooth bottom?

jtpryan wrote:
Good morning,

I'm interested in these jaws:

http://www.sears.com/nova-woodworkin...1&blockType=G1

But I have a couple of questions. I have a Jet JML-1014 lathe with a 10" swing. I'm wondering if these will fit. The largest bowl I can turn is ~ 10" and I hate to give up too much of that if I can avoid it. But I also like to turn very thin bowls if possible. So, if I recess the bottom to fit on my Nova jaws then I end up having to have the bottom thicker then I want. I would like to turn down that recess flush and thought this would be a solution. I'm also looking at those "donut" jigs, but from what I read I could lose up to 2" off the overall diameter if I do that. Would this also be the problem with the cole jaws? Would I have to give up a lot to achieve this.

Essentially, I guess what I want is the largest bowl I can get, turned thin, with a smooth bottom.

Hmmm, sounds like the perfect woman...

Anyway, any suggestions, as always, appreciated.

-Jim

You've got to figure at least an inch from the inside of the outside
button to the ways of the lathe. If you have a 10" swing, the maximum
bowl rim diameter will be no more than 9" and probably more like 8".

Another thing about cole jaws: If you have your tool rest parallel
to the bottom of the bowl and the bowl starts slipping out of the
jaws, it will catch between the jaws and the tool rest and become an
instant projectile. DAMHIKT.

I fooled around with mine for 3 or 4 years before I got me a vacuum
pump and started vacuum chucking and have never had one leave the
chuck since. Other than the pump you can cobble the rest of the
system together. My headstock shaft is hollow so on the bowl end it
required a faceplate, a rubber plumbing washer, a disk of 3/4" MDF and
facing for the disk is a sheet of foam from Hobby Lobby, glued on with
spray glue. My lathe swing is 15" and my largest disk is 14 7/8" and
it will accommodate a bowl of the same diameter.

If interested check Bill Noble's site at
http://www.wbnoble.com/index.html.

--
G.W. Ross

Closed Hearing for the Caption Impaired...






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Old August 1st 12, 07:25 PM posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Default Anybody using the Nova Cole Jaws or How to get a smooth bottom?

In article ,
jtpryan wrote:

Good morning,

I'm interested in these jaws:

http://www.sears.com/nova-woodworkin...M5857402401P?p
rdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

But I have a couple of questions. I have a Jet JML-1014 lathe with a 10"
swing. I'm wondering if these will fit. The largest bowl I can turn is ~
10" and I hate to give up too much of that if I can avoid it. But I also
like to turn very thin bowls if possible. So, if I recess the bottom to fit
on my Nova jaws then I end up having to have the bottom thicker then I want.
I would like to turn down that recess flush and thought this would be a
solution. I'm also looking at those "donut" jigs, but from what I read I
could lose up to 2" off the overall diameter if I do that. Would this also
be the problem with the cole jaws? Would I have to give up a lot to achieve
this.

Essentially, I guess what I want is the largest bowl I can get, turned thin,
with a smooth bottom.

Hmmm, sounds like the perfect woman...

Anyway, any suggestions, as always, appreciated.

-Jim


I can't tell if those are the mini or the standard (Nova makes both).
The standard are too large, the mini fits

That being said, either set only clamps down at 8 points, while the
donut has a more secure hold.

There is another option., You take the mini-jaws and add a wood addition
to them, that is to say you add machinable jaw set to the cole-jaws. I
used maple that was about 2x6.

When finished you machine a perfect fit recess into the wood jaws and
clamp the bowl with those. If the fit is right, you have a continuous
clamp all the way around the rim of the bowl. Although I would also
bring the tail stock up for the majority of the turning off the tenon.

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv
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Old August 1st 12, 08:24 PM posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Default Anybody using the Nova Cole Jaws or How to get a smooth bottom?

Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
In article ,
jtpryan wrote:

Good morning,

I'm interested in these jaws:

http://www.sears.com/nova-woodworkin...M5857402401P?p
rdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

But I have a couple of questions. I have a Jet JML-1014 lathe with a 10"
swing. I'm wondering if these will fit. The largest bowl I can turn is ~
10" and I hate to give up too much of that if I can avoid it. But I also
like to turn very thin bowls if possible. So, if I recess the bottom to fit
on my Nova jaws then I end up having to have the bottom thicker then I want.
I would like to turn down that recess flush and thought this would be a
solution. I'm also looking at those "donut" jigs, but from what I read I
could lose up to 2" off the overall diameter if I do that. Would this also
be the problem with the cole jaws? Would I have to give up a lot to achieve
this.

Essentially, I guess what I want is the largest bowl I can get, turned thin,
with a smooth bottom.

Hmmm, sounds like the perfect woman...

Anyway, any suggestions, as always, appreciated.

-Jim


I can't tell if those are the mini or the standard (Nova makes both).
The standard are too large, the mini fits

That being said, either set only clamps down at 8 points, while the
donut has a more secure hold.

There is another option., You take the mini-jaws and add a wood addition
to them, that is to say you add machinable jaw set to the cole-jaws. I
used maple that was about 2x6.

When finished you machine a perfect fit recess into the wood jaws and
clamp the bowl with those. If the fit is right, you have a continuous
clamp all the way around the rim of the bowl. Although I would also
bring the tail stock up for the majority of the turning off the tenon.

I like the idea of the machinable jaws. Also the OP talked about a
bottom recess rather than a tenon. I guess a blunt tailstock support
could be used in this case, though. I have used a 1" diameter disk
with a hole for the point for something like this.

--
G.W. Ross

Closed Hearing for the Caption Impaired...






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Old August 2nd 12, 03:20 AM posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,014
Default Anybody using the Nova Cole Jaws or How to get a smooth bottom?

Remember they can expand just like they compress.

The rubber / plastic disks (I have a set but forget it has been so
long) - press on the inner side of the lip of the bowl so the foot can
be cut and beautified.

The jaws are soft Aluminum and can be easily cut back by hand or by a
machinist.

Martin

On 8/1/2012 9:04 AM, jtpryan wrote:
Good morning,

I'm interested in these jaws:

http://www.sears.com/nova-woodworkin...1&blockType=G1

But I have a couple of questions. I have a Jet JML-1014 lathe with a 10" swing. I'm wondering if these will fit. The largest bowl I can turn is ~ 10" and I hate to give up too much of that if I can avoid it. But I also like to turn very thin bowls if possible. So, if I recess the bottom to fit on my Nova jaws then I end up having to have the bottom thicker then I want. I would like to turn down that recess flush and thought this would be a solution. I'm also looking at those "donut" jigs, but from what I read I could lose up to 2" off the overall diameter if I do that. Would this also be the problem with the cole jaws? Would I have to give up a lot to achieve this.

Essentially, I guess what I want is the largest bowl I can get, turned thin, with a smooth bottom.

Hmmm, sounds like the perfect woman...

Anyway, any suggestions, as always, appreciated.

-Jim



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Old August 2nd 12, 05:25 AM posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 438
Default Anybody using the Nova Cole Jaws or How to get a smooth bottom?

In article ,
"G. Ross" wrote:



I like the idea of the machinable jaws. Also the OP talked about a
bottom recess rather than a tenon. I guess a blunt tailstock support
could be used in this case, though. I have used a 1" diameter disk
with a hole for the point for something like this.


I shamelessly stole that idea from Dale Larson (current AAW President),
I have no idea who he stole if from

"Everything of value I do I learned from someone else" Eli Aviseria

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv
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Old August 2nd 12, 06:16 PM posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Posts: 2,532
Default Anybody using the Nova Cole Jaws or How to get a smooth bottom?

Take a look at this. You can make it yourself to ensure the max size
that will fit your lathe. And it's easier to move the rubber stoppers.

http://www.woodworkersguide.com/2010...ngworth-chuck/

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
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Old August 3rd 12, 04:28 AM posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,014
Default Anybody using the Nova Cole Jaws or How to get a smooth bottom?

That looks nice, but with the adjustments - it would be great for
odd shaped items that need a foot. - The independence of each holder
does that - clamp a triangular chunk. ....

The cole is self centering. The one shown on Sears site seems to fit
easily a 10" lathe. It can get larger but just don't use it that large.
Look at the details below. (the text box)
Martin

On 8/2/2012 12:16 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
Take a look at this. You can make it yourself to ensure the max size
that will fit your lathe. And it's easier to move the rubber stoppers.

http://www.woodworkersguide.com/2010...ngworth-chuck/

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Old August 3rd 12, 02:56 PM posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Default Anybody using the Nova Cole Jaws or How to get a smooth bottom?

In article ,
Larry Blanchard wrote:

Take a look at this. You can make it yourself to ensure the max size
that will fit your lathe. And it's easier to move the rubber stoppers.

http://www.woodworkersguide.com/2010...ngworth-chuck/


That's the 8-point Longworth, which I like a-lot more then the original
4 point

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv
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Old August 3rd 12, 04:57 PM posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Dec 2011
Posts: 66
Default Anybody using the Nova Cole Jaws or How to get a smooth bottom?

In article , G. Ross
wrote:

I like the idea of the machinable jaws. Also the OP talked about a
bottom recess rather than a tenon. I guess a blunt tailstock support
could be used in this case, though. I have used a 1" diameter disk
with a hole for the point for something like this.


Good idea. The problem with a point on the tailstock is that it acts as
a wedge and can easily split the piece when tightened.


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